For the Dude and me, a trip to the beach at the ultra-deluxe Caneel Bay resort was a mere pretext. You see, a few days before, we’d been on a taxi-shuttle to Cruz Bay when it had happened to stop at the resort to let…Read More

For the Dude and me, a trip to the beach at the ultra-deluxe Caneel Bay resort was a mere pretext. You see, a few days before, we’d been on a taxi-shuttle to Cruz Bay when it had happened to stop at the resort to let off a couple of passengers. To our surprise, we’d spotted some colonial ruins—very interesting-looking ones, too—nearby on the resort’s meticulously landscaped grounds.

This struck us as awfully unfair. Undemocratic. Hell, almost un-American. Where did this… this… exclusive resort, this playground of the rich and famous, get off keeping all the best ruins to itself? The Dude’s populist sensibilities revolted; and from that moment on, he was a man obsessed. We knew that the resort’s grounds—along with its main beach, one of no less than seven, if you’ll believe it—were open to the public. So we’d come back one day to hit the beach, do a little snorkeling—and get a closer look at the ruins.

And now here we were, approaching the first of the ruins—and to our astonishment, we saw that instead of the KEEP OFF and DO NOT TOUCH signs that had been posted all around Annaberg Plantation, we were being practically invited to walk all over it by a wooden banister that had been added to its crumbling stairway. This time, it was my own preservationist instincts that revolted—but with such an invitation, I couldn’t resist slowly climbing the stairs to the main level to look and admire.

This was the first of many embellishments we saw, as, for the next hour, we scrambled all over and through the ruins like kids on a playground. Another even more fetching complex of ruins had flowers planted all around it, and we also spotted lights, tables, and chairs (which made sense when we later found out that resort guests could arrange to have romantic private dinners in the ruins, the lucky bastards). One large, circular building even had a restaurant built into it. In any case, shameless disrespect for the island’s heritage notwithstanding, it was all very lovely; and the Dude, an avid photographer, was in heaven snapping photo after photo.

Finally, spent from our orgy, we staggered over to the beach—and that didn’t turn out to be too shabby, either. Backed by the resort’s dining terrace, furnished with a large boat dock, and facing built-up St. Thomas, it wasn’t exactly an ideal of picturesque seclusion. But it was still rather pretty, with a few shady spots and plenty of beach chairs scattered about (with big signs everywhere warning that they were for resort guests only, but how were they going to enforce that?). And we were practically the only ones there, with all the actual resort guests presumably enjoying the privacy of the other six beaches, safely tucked away from the unwashed rabble.

Bagging ourselves a pair of "for resort guests only" beach chairs, we put down our stuff and headed into the water to swim and snorkel. It wasn’t a very good place for swimming, we found—there were rocks and beds of turtle grass on the seafloor, and also patches of coral scattered all over, so you could never be sure if you were safe putting your feet down.

Well, no matter. We swam to our right, heading for the eastern side of the bay, where we’d heard there was a nice reef. And the reef did turn out to be nice, with plenty of fish and coral—all the kinds we’d seen already on our trip, plus a few we hadn’t, which was exciting. Unfortunately, most of the reef was in somewhat shallow water, and as it was also fairly bristling with sea urchins, we found it more prudent to swim alongside it instead of over and through it. And the water was awfully murky as well. So our view of the sea life was rather limited—but still, we were tempted enough by what we saw to keep swimming along the reef, further and further out, towards the open ocean…

That was when I saw it. Just a fleeting glimpse—an outline—a flash of movement—but I froze. Slowly, I turned my head and looked around, and it was like suddenly seeing the picture in one of those Magic Eye things.

We were surrounded by jellyfish.

Just then, the Dude caught my eye and motioned for me to bring my head up out of the water so he could tell me something. He started to say that he thought we were too far out and we should start back, but I cut him off. "Yeah. Let’s go back. Right now. Because…"
"What?"
"OK, dude, don’t get freaked out, but… we’re surrounded by jellyfish."
A pause.
"Are you serious?"
"Yeah."
Another pause. And then we both simultaneously dove underwater and swam for our dear lives back towards shore.

We surfaced, panting, in shallow water a few yards out from the beach. After making sure we were both OK, we decided to confine our snorkeling henceforth to the shallow part of the bay, nice and close in to the beach.

And, to our surprise, we found that the snorkeling was quite good here as well, thanks to those treacherous patches of coral scattered around—each one was like its own miniature reef, with a few fish swimming around it. We also caught sight of a live conch and some sea snails. But the most exciting moment was when we glimpsed a sea turtle feeding on one of the turtle-grass beds. The visibility out here in the middle of the bay was very good—much better than around the reef. We finally trooped out of the water feeling satisfied—until the Dude let out a yelp of pain as he realized that he had pulled a muscle during our mad swim towards shore.

That’s when we found out what the other advantage of Caneel Bay was—its convenience. We were able to spend a little time resting on the beach chairs, then, leaving the sand, we could wash our feet clean at the little spigot the resort had thoughtfully provided. And after we discussed the rest of our afternoon and it became clear that the Dude was in no shape to press on and hit another beach as we’d planned to do, we were able to go to the nice resort bathrooms to get out of our wet swimsuits and get dressed. And finally, there were comfortable chairs and couches on the resort’s terrace where the Dude could sit and rest before we went to catch a ride back to our accommodations. If we’d been so inclined, we could even have had a bite to eat at any one of two or three overpriced resort restaurants that lay within a 50-foot radius—because, naturally, those are open to the unwashed masses as well!

If you’re considering staying at Maho Bay Camps, here are some more details and handy hints on life at Maho. (If you don’t know anything about Maho yet, start by reading my accommodation entry, which should give you a basic idea of what it’s like…Read More

If you’re considering staying at Maho Bay Camps, here are some more details and handy hints on life at Maho. (If you don’t know anything about Maho yet, start by reading my accommodation entry, which should give you a basic idea of what it’s like and whether it’s for you.)

Activities

Maho can easily be the focus of your entire vacation. Visit the activities desk and you’ll find endless possibilities. There are $10 yoga sessions every weekday morning; massages can be arranged by appointment; several tour boats operate out of Maho Bay, offering plenty of snorkeling, diving, and sailing excursions; Hamilton’s Taxi offers equally excellent on-land excursions to beaches, hiking trails, restaurants, and nightlife; Maho’s art center does a variety of classes for children and adults; there are Movie Nights in the dining pavilion every other evening; the registration desk has a lending library of games; and—my favorite of all—there are glassblowing demonstrations most nights (see "Eco-Stuff" section below for more details).

Maho also has its own private beach, Little Maho; and the adjacent beaches of Big Maho to the west and Francis Bay to the east can both be easily reached either by short hiking trails or by simply swimming around the rocks at either end of Little Maho. (For more info, see my separate entries on the Maho Bay beaches and Francis Bay.) There’s a beach café at Little Maho, as well as a beach shop and equipment-rental stand where you can get just about anything you’d want—one day we rented a kayak there to take a trip out to nearby Whistling Cay.

Wildlife

Remember, you’re out in nature here—and if that sounds like a drawback to you rather than an attraction, stop reading right now! Most of Maho’s elevated walkways are named after the animals you’ll spot: Lost Donkey Walkway, Pea Hen Parkway, Lizard Lane, Crab Ramble Road, Banana Quit Cut-Off (the official bird of the Virgin Islands), Goat Trail, Tree Frog Trail, Mongoose Highway, Iguana Alley. And yes, we did see most of these during our stay—even an iguana, which was pretty exciting. What you’ll see the most of are the lizards, small anoles that I, for one, found adorable. Less adorably, there are also bugs and mosquitoes everywhere. Leaf bugs (I don’t know what they’re actually called, but they’re large green bugs that look like leaves) are ubiquitous, especially around (and in) the bathrooms at night. Another nighttime annoyance is the frogs, which make a tremendous din—if you’re a light sleeper, you might want to consider bringing earplugs. And a daytime annoyance is the small army of cats that have taken up residence at Maho and make daily rounds of the cabins and dining pavilion begging for scraps.

Eating

Maho’s open-air dining pavilion, with its sweeping view out over Francis Bay, has to be seen to be believed—and the food is really good, too. The only problem is that it’s fairly pricey: expect to pay $5-$10 for a full breakfast and $14-$22 for dinner. But we ended up eating practically all our meals there anyway, because we found that trying to cook on the propane stove and use the icebox (which in this tropical heat was able to keep the ice from melting for all of about, oh, 30 seconds) was a little more trouble than it was worth, especially considering that the food and supplies available at the camp store, though perfectly adequate, were less than thrilling. If you choose to go this route, be sure to check the expiration dates on everything—most of the food in the store is pretty fresh, but occasionally you’ll find something that’s been sitting there for quite a while.

The dining pavilion also has a bar, which has happy hour from 4:30-7:30pm in the high season and 5-6pm in the off-season. During happy hour, all drinks are a dollar off, which means $2 for a bottle of beer, $3 for draft, and $5 for a glass of wine. But the best news for all you cheapos out there is the free popcorn that they have during happy hour, which, if you abuse the privilege enough, could conceivably be your dinner. (A less radical way to save money on dinner is to split it between two people—the dinners are pretty huge, so as long as your appetites are moderate, it should be enough. You can fill up any lingering emptiness in your stomach with trips to the salad bar—you’re only supposed to fill up your salad bowl once, but come on, how are they going to keep track of that?)

Eco-Stuff

Remember, Maho bills itself as an "eco-resort," and they definitely put their money where their mouth is. There are signs everywhere reminding you not to waste water or energy. They use solar power as much as possible. The raised boardwalks, in addition to being walkways, also have the water and sewage pipes and power lines attached to their undersides so they don’t have to run along the ground and disturb animals’ habitats.

And just how will all this eco-ness affect your stay? Well, water is a big deal here, for one thing—it’s a precious resource in these parts. It’s desalinized seawater, and at Maho, it’s divided into two varieties: potable (drinkable) and non-potable (you guessed it, non-drinkable). There are only a couple of potable-water spigots in the entire camp; the main one is by the dining pavilion. Everything else—the bathroom faucets, the showers, the other water spigots—is non-potable. Every cottage is equipped with a huge jug, which you can fill up at a potable-water spigot so as to have your own supply of potable water. The good news is that there are many more non-potable water spigots scattered around the campground, and they’re fine for things like doing dishes and cooking—you can drink that water, too, of course, if you boil it first.

Maho also recycles all of its glass—and they’ve come up with a brilliant way to do it: glassblowing. The camp’s two resident glassblowers give fascinating demonstrations a few nights a week, making everything from simple mugs, bowls, vases, and plates to fancy doodads like glass fish, accompanied by the oohs and ahhs of the crowd looking on. Stopping by to watch the glassblowing was one of my favorite things to do in the evenings, even though the glassblowing hut was always swelteringly hot. And all the things that they make in the demonstrations are then sold in Maho’s art gallery—I picked up a great vase there to take back to the folks.

Other Miscellaneous Tips

1. The Maho Bay complex, with its network of raised boardwalks zigzagging all over the hillside, is easy to get lost in. They’ll give you a map when you check in—use it right then to learn the way from your cabin to key places like the dining pavilion, nearest bathroom, and registration desk.

2. Be sure to bring a flashlight. It gets very dark here, and the walkways aren’t lit, so you’ll need it to get around in the evening and at night.

3. Every cabin location has its advantages and drawbacks: view; amount of privacy; number of stairways you have to climb to reach it; proximity to the bathrooms, the dining pavilion, the beach, and the road. If any of these is particularly important to you, be sure to mention it when you make your reservations or at check-in and see if they can accommodate you.

4. There’s a free "help-yourself" center across from the registration desk. This is where departing guests can leave anything they don’t want to take back with them, and incoming guests can help themselves. There’s always plenty of pulp fiction, usually some sunscreen, and a varying selection of food items—if you’re lucky, things like peanut butter; if you’re not, stale crackers. The pickings are best at the end of the weekend, when people have just left to go back home.

5. If you don’t have a rental car, memorize the schedule for Frett’s shuttle, which runs several times a day between Maho and Cruz Bay and will drop you off or pick you up anywhere along the route. You’ll find the schedule printed on the back of the camp map they give you at check-in. There are also several places you can realistically walk to from Maho, including Cinnamon Bay, Annaberg Plantation, and Leinster Bay. However, the side road that runs up to Maho from the main road is a killer—so steep you practically need ropes and grappling hooks to climb it. If you’re on your way back to Maho on foot and you’re not in training for the Olympics, I’d suggest waiting as long it takes for someone to drive by and agree to give you a lift.

6. Have a fabulous time! There’s no other place in the world like Maho!

St. Thomas is shopping capital of the Caribbean. St. John known for its National Park. Yet in numerous conversations, ranging from top tourism officials and owners to average locals, there seemed to be one common concern: What is the niche of St. Croix? I…Read More

St. Thomas is shopping capital of the Caribbean. St. John known for its National Park. Yet in numerous conversations, ranging from top tourism officials and owners to average locals, there seemed to be one common concern: What is the niche of St. Croix?

I guess I'm still missing something. Current promotions of the rich historical and natural treasures obviously doesn't seem to be enough for drawing travelers at a rate that sustains the local economy. They want to coin a recognizable identity "catch phrase" which will increase tourism they depend upon. Unfortunately, there are too many other determining, stifling factors they don't have abilities to control.

Get there...if you can!
From NYC, if I could find a $225 round-trip airfare to San Juan, nearby St. Thomas was guaranteed to be at least $400; St. Croix even pricier. Instability of the monopolized air market, by American and American Eagle, has all but dictated the number of travelers who come for extended stays solely on the island.

TWA, which was in the midst of developing a competitive Caribbean hub, was obviously absorbed by American. Continental and Delta discontinued flights into St. Croix because of inability to fill planes, or gain a profit since passengers opted to use mileage award tickets to offset otherwise costly fares - even in the off-season. Currently, U.S. Air is the only other airline offering service in/out of the island; local speculations causes one to wonder how long they'll continue.

This has admittedly left resorts/hotels unable to secure deals which include airfares in all-inclusive packages. American doesn't seem interested; you need no further proof than scanning newspaper's Travel sections. There's enticing offers to other islands; rarely to never St. Croix. While local packages are competitive with other islands, they end up appearing rather costly without airfare included.

Their realities we take for granted
Regardless of how much time I'd previously spent in the Caribbean, this trip enlightened how limited my defining experiences/expectations had been. First and foremost, I'm a declared Budget Traveler! While inexpensive options dwindle away annually, I can still justify frequent visits to Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, or even the cheap package to Jamaica.

Looking out for my own interests, I thought I'd answered the call for labeling St. Croix's niche that could keep a steady flow of year-round visitors - 'Why not make St. Croix the budget island'? I was quickly told Caribbean tourists don't come looking for or expecting to go cheap. My defense was then price-related aspects were exactly what St. Croix needed: Capture the budget traveler market which has virtually been alienated from other island destinations! How foolish my uneducated perspective was.

I was obviously overlooking my island time, except for Bahamas daytrips, had been limited to countries with the largest land masses. With that space comes more access to locally generated resources. Based on supply and demand, smaller islands couldn't lower costs...little alone go "budget", even if they wanted.

Daily island life is more expensive than most conceive; even with conservative methods of intake/usage. Turning marginal profits within the tourism industry, where guests expect the best/ most of everything, only drives prices higher; especially the smaller the islands. Utility costs are outrageous; the precious commodity of water valued/priced highest, are easiest squandered by tourists.

St. Croix is fortunate to have more productive farmlands than most Lesser Antilles and Windwards, but sustaining locals is one thing. Keeping up with gluttonous tendencies of tourists is quite different. Too many basic staples and necessities have to be imported, which ultimately dictates cost.

A perfect example is the night I winced at dinner after my first rum and coke sip. The proprietor, noticing my reaction, frankly eluded it's more cost effective to fill glasses with the inexpensive local product rather than costly imported coke - I guess like killing two birds with one stone!

No Longer In-PORT-ant
Wandering Christiansted on a sunny afternoon in mid-June, I REALLY appreciated that basically all I saw were locals! I normally chalk this up to the off-season. Sadly, I'd been informed otherwise.

Another major setback recently occurred when all cruise lines ceased to include the island as a port of call. It seems they are being unjustly punished as the crucial pawn amongst powers which be. St. Croix had no taxation entrance fee for passengers coming ashore, unlike the most popular of ALL Caribbean cruise destinations in St. Thomas where taxation fees crept upward annually. From what I best surmised, the bottom-political line boiled down to this: Stop heavy taxation of passengers in St. Thomas, or else!

Speculations were wide-spread as to what would come from this devastating blow. Even during our brief time in town, I overheard employed shop staff discussing pending fates, as well as locals passed on the streets; perhaps temporarily unemployed.

Summer cruises brought two or three ships to Frederiksted weekly with thousands of passengers coming ashore to disperse themselves and their dollars throughout the island. They ate, shopped, and paid entrance fees to attractions. No one knew this more than Sweeney Toussaint of St. Croix Safari Tours, who provided taxi service and buses for organized tours. His parked fleet doesn't pay bills OR staff who drive them.

Uncertainty only fueled discussions to find St. Croix's niche and hurriedly restore economic security. Efforts had hatched one potential golden egg that could end up rather rotten. Speculative plans call for a second casino, but would this further usurp locals' dwindling income, a proven fact during times of crisis?

Despite probing attempts, I never found animosity or jealousy towards St. Thomas/St. John, obviously prospering year-round. Their close proximity, compared to St. Croix's mere distance, had caused separate station branches within government, tourism, and other civil factions. Yet I was assured they proudly work together promoting best interests of the United States Virgin Islands. Ok, but I still couldn't help recalling the Cinderella fairytale; even if we weren't talking about mean, ugly stepsisters.

Survivors With Style and Grace
No matter how bleak the immediate economic future of St. Croix may appear, Michener's historical accounts of the Caribbean only reconfirmed one thing: Through slavery, conquerings, poverty, hurricanes, and any number of other devastating events, people of the islands have developed unique character as survivors! The Crucians don't need a niche to label who they are, what their island has.

Within minutes of arriving and pulling out of the parking lot, I recognized the appealing qualities not so easily found on the other two Virgins. Evidence of everyday lives, not a barrage of implanted tourism industries, were still what dominated. I immediately felt at home in this, which I accurately "labeled", The Common Man's Island.

36 hours was not enough on St. Croix; one week with a packed agenda likely doesn't allow rushing through all the attractions. But when it comes to sharing in the lives of people that are different than ourselves, I don't know that it's possible to speculate time within the concept of "enough". That's why even without the invitations to come back, I will someday return to this, my favorite of the Virgin Islands.

There's likely few contributors to our website who haven't dreamed of traveling around the globe as some type of travel writer and getting paid for their efforts. IGO's version is to send top writers on all-expense paid Press Trips sponsored by Board of Tourisms…Read More

There's likely few contributors to our website who haven't dreamed of traveling around the globe as some type of travel writer and getting paid for their efforts. IGO's version is to send top writers on all-expense paid Press Trips sponsored by Board of Tourisms from randomly participating countries. During my 17-months in the community, there've been numerous offers posted for top guides to take advantage of.

However, Jim and staff have always included a "prewarning" that made me wonder about these fantasy efforts:
Grueling schedules from sun-up to sun-down further compounded from being mass-herded in large groups.
Exposure to what the host country wants you to see with VERY little free time.
Switching vacation mentality to work...not play.

If these potentials weren't enough to deter me, I've found the biggest disadvantage is most deals have been offered with less than 2-3-week advance notice. Aside from last minute rearranging personal/work schedules, that "free" deal isn't so cheap when you've to purchase an over-priced, last-minute ticket to NYC where trips normally depart from.

So what was I in for on this Guide of the Year award?

The GRANDest PRIZE of All
I've got to believe I hit the jackpot on Press Trip experiences; not to mention returning to my favored Caribbean where even the most hectic can still be taken laid-back! In April, I was given a list of trips to choose from sponsored by the US Virgin Islands. I'm not a golfer or certified for deep-sea scuba; my boys are too old to "relive" the trip on families with children. That left about my only option a weekend trip focusing on Ecotourism.

Once confirming interest, IGO's Bradley put me in contact with the Martin Public Relations Agency that handles marketing for the USVI Board of Tourism. From there, the wait was on...; my not receiving the trip's itinerary or airline ticket until about 17-hours before departure!

Despite antsiness, I'd already found assurance from Martin Agency going the extra mile when being told they'd fly me from any airport...including the costly airport in Joplin, MO. To make matters sweeter, the class of ticket purchased qualified me for AA frequent flier miles!

The other bonus came finding there had been little interest in this trip, and my traveling companions would be a college grad interning for "E"nvironmental Magazine, and a writer for an Atlanta weekly. This small contingency provided a much more relaxed and intimate encountering for our busy agenda as well as a "spice of life" variety.

Aside from environmental topics, the other issue we were most in agreement on evolved around where we ate/stayed. None of us would likely be able to afford these places if vacationing on our budgets! IGO readers know I'm much more comfortable "slummin' in paradise" and stopping at a roadside shack for a $4 plate of authentic local grub.

When learning I'd be arriving at 6:00 p.m. on Saturday, departing at 7:00 a.m. on Wednesday, initial thoughts were what could I possibly accomplish in only three days to have enough material for writing a journals? The Martin Agency was willing to let me extend my stay at my own cost, but when checking around, there simply weren't accommodations priced within my spending range.

This also led to interesting discussions on the upscale trend which has swept the entire Caribbean - the market of budget travelers alienated and virtually lost when it comes to prices.

As it would turn out, the three-day Press Trip would be more than enough; our packed, whirlwind schedule left us all trying to recount events feeling like we'd already been at it a week! I reaped more than enough journal material and question who of our group would have to display the most skilled writing techniques since both my cohorts were limited in describing their experiences in pieces less than what I'll put in this Free Form. Trying to pinpoint focus/angles for potential articles all but shifted with each new activity on our schedule prepared by the man who was also not only quick to lay-down the credit card, but shared a "Dad's watchful eye" for the three-member family he'd assembled that weekend.

Island Hospitality
Robb Stallworth, of the Martin Agency, can still capitalize on youthful energies it takes to adequately organize/host these Press Trip endeavors. While some might be tempted to find allure in coveting his work, I was well aware of hidden factors from being my NYC agency's "official tour guide". His appreciativeness to/for our easily managed small group was beyond understandable after sharing various details from passed trips which can include up to 12 travel writers and need for an assistant.

To say he's had "trouble in paradise" is perhaps an understatement with groups which had early-on disagreements and drew battle lines creating all-out war for the trip's duration. Others have came assigned to specialty trips they knew nothing about...kind of like if I'd shown up for Golf with my only desire to lay in a sand-trap. And as you'd expect, there's been plenty who's "on vacation" mentality only fractured and deterred the group as a whole.

In wanting to provide the perfect, positive experience, I understood his frustrations, disappointments trying to find last-minute activities after rough waters prompted cancellations of both St. Croix water excursions. However, I recognized his strongest quality as mastering the leadership position while still being able to maintain a position within the group. Aside from sharing his acquired knowledge of the islands he promotes, visits often, and has came to love, it was his insisting we use his cellphone to make Father's Day phone calls, or in offering personal possessions to supplement group members' lackings. This signified his willingness, along with the Martin Agency and the USVI Board of Tourism, in a way that left you feeling they'd do the same for anyone - press trip member or not.

I was quite surprised when my airplane ticket arrived in a 12" x 18" UPS package also containing a very in-depth Press Kit and items too numerous to mention. When met in St. Thomas, the local tourism bureau presented us with a similar welcome package, as did the Maho Bay staff. Again, the feeling of intentions was not to gain favor in how we would write about USVI, but in displaying typical island hospitality that helps to make the Caribbean so inviting.

The jovial demeanor of the locals was only magnified by those working for the local tourism bureaus and industries in joining together to promote their common cause. Perhaps you're thinking, 'isn't that what they're supposed to be doing'? And how, as I would learn within minutes of landing.

Diplomacy of an IGOUGO Ambassador
Casually leaned up against the wall and not holding any name sign, I spotted Louise Benjamin as my contact before she recognized me. After an initial warm welcome from her, I went to retrieve my bags. She approached moments later somewhat confused explaining she was there to pick up "Jake Ryan". Listed on the trip itinerary as Jake, and later my real name, I assured her she had both the "right persons" and began the IGOUGO explanation process; something I hadn't initially given much thought to, but that would be repeated time and time again for the duration of my stay.

I felt like somewhat of a novelty gaining conversation spotlight based upon the travel web site no one seemed to know about. Once giving a basic description for how it works, I was surprised at the question I answered most, "No, I'm not the owner or creator of the website!" I was simply a volunteer contributor who enjoyed combining love of travel, writing and photography. And aside from accessing this as a viable travel resource, any fascination and interest was further escalated by learning they, too could join the community and start posting journals.

Through contacts made within the Martin Agency and local tourism bureaus, establishments we patronized, or individuals met along the way, there will be no way to tell how many of these register...not only to see Jake Ryan's journals about USVI, but to also potentially read your works while strengthening the site/community by contributing their own.

On the first day of class in my college Public Relations course, the professor dared us to be able to adequately define Public Relations by the end of the term. With so many aspects, he was right! But what he accomplished was teaching us that every living person is already working in Public Relations based on promoting, consciously or unconsciously, who they are and what they do and believe in. The "real" job of the Public Relations agency is to get them to understand AND believe in this since they're basically acting as the agent 24-7.

Makes sense doesn't it? And while I might have been on a Press Trip to the United States Virgin Islands, I also have to believe that everyone I met was unknowingly on a Press Trip...for IGOUGO!

Using the long flight to familiarize myself with Stanley Selengut, the founder and President of Maho Bay Camps, I wasn't sure what to expect from spending my next 36-hours with this man. His press-release biography included such accomplishments, dating back to the 1950's, as: Creating…Read More

Using the long flight to familiarize myself with Stanley Selengut, the founder and President of Maho Bay Camps, I wasn't sure what to expect from spending my next 36-hours with this man. His press-release biography included such accomplishments, dating back to the 1950's, as:

• Creating a large-volume importing company specializing in South American native crafts that entire Andean villages existed on revenues from.
• Consultant to the Kennedy Administration and working for the State Department, and as a staff consultant in Industrial Development for the Office of Economic Opportunity.
• Design and manufacturing of childhood learning products including an innovative award winning furniture and accessory system which allows a child to control their room environment; a complete model system in the permanent collection of The Smithsonian Institute,

Stanley Selengut is not what you'd expect from someone who's achieved so much. The unassuming character - never without his signature white cap, is as real as the natural environments and people he's dedicated his life to protecting and sustaining.

Based on a consulting assignment for the Rockefeller Brothers involving low-income housing, Selengut came to the Virgin Islands National Park in the mid-70's with the task of developing an economically viable resort which also complied with National Park regulations. And as they say, the rest is history. Interesting enough, it wasn't his passed accomplishments which filled conversations, but speaking of all the ideas and visions which have yet to transpire.

Through development and programming of Maho Bay Campground and Harmony, as well as the Estate Concordia Studio and Eco-tents which he outright owns on property he's purchased, his self-sustaining specialties on St. John have the potential to affect the entire Caribbean and poorer countries of the world where outside non-renewable resources are limited.

WHERE THERE'S A WILL, HE'LL FIND A WAY
Aside from future expansions at Maho Bay and Concordia, Selengut has set his sites on a bigger picture issue which involves employment opportunities and income for islanders, conservation through recycling, and image improvement for the cruise ship industry...and how they "supposedly" have been disposing of all that garbage and waste.

With connections to the top brass of international tourism and cruise lines, initial concepts and proposals are being discussed for having ships "officially" throw away all their recyclable garbage and waste every time they dock at a port of call. Once the glass, plastics and metals are melted back into their natural forms, native islanders would use these resources for hand-crafting Caribbean-fashioned metal key-chains, hand-blown glass, plastic-woven rugs, and any number of other momentos that have already been tested. Our table was more than impressed with the sample products displayed and those which were used in decorating the Harmony and Concordia studios.

Perhaps the most ingenious of the concepts would be to make and sell these items in small stores amid the tourists' traps that await where cruise ships dock. Not only would the continual stream of business help the locals who are making/selling the goods and running the stores, but passengers would be educated on ecological issues while potentially taking home decorative souvenirs made from things they, and their comrades, had thrown away.

Selengut has a way of making things happen; turning long-range goals into short-term accomplishments. He'll likely need all of this and more when undertaking what could be his biggest endeavor. The lease on the National Park property Maho Bay is located upon will be up in 10-years. And with all that's been successfully accomplished, there's an urgent underlying fear that the property could be signed over to another management company where profit gains take precedent over ecological focus.

A lot could happen between now and the year 2012, but the seriousness of potentials eluded to would lead one to believe the lease was expiring this year. Selengut might have pulled-off some unbelievable feats throughout his career, but Maho Bay is obviously his heart and soul. And at 73-years old, he's no more ready to sit-back and coast than an idealistic graduate fresh out of college.

CHARACTER OF A CHARACTER
With all the prestige of Long Island, NY's Hampton neighborhoods, it's hard to imagine Selengut calling this area home now and not St. John. Splitting time between the City and Kennedy Airport, he's made the ultimate sacrifice asked of most visionists and developers - to leave the daily hands-on stages of their projects behind for handling all the top-level muck.

Serving on a number of Boards and Advisory Committees, including as a Founding Board Member of The International Ecotourism Society, Selengut also devotes much of his time educatively speaking at worldwide conferences, and to school children. These passions for sharing what's closest to one's heart also revealed why he wasn't content just to give us his spiel and property tour during the 48-hours he'd flown to be with us.

Selengut wouldn't hear of letting the trip organizers hire a local-driver to show us around the island for a day. Piling into the back of a pick-up truck, we set out for more adventure than just his aggressive NYC-accustomed driving challenging the back-roads of the island.

Whether walking the trails, stopping at roadside overlooks, or table side chat, Selengut's vast wealth of knowledge was comparable listening to a Marlin Perkins, Jacques Cousteu, and Euell Gibbons rolled up into one as an ideal spokesperson for either the Discovery or History channels. Yet it was his simplistic depths of passions and enjoyments of the good life which were captivating only leaving one wanting more.

Reputation far proceeded this developer of "Stanley Cloth" - what the staff calls the fabric used on Concordia's Ecotents which Selengut developed while working on a project with NASA. As we trailed him around the facilities of both compounds, it was an honor to be seen with this man which guests immediately recognized in singing their praises for marveling at his creations while adding a chorus of how many times they'd made the trip to St. John because of them.

In town, this island icon caught the attention of anyone who'd been around for more than a couple of weeks; many which had been one-time Maho Bay employees. But the biggest indicator of our host's prestige and status came when stopping roadside to pick-up a pair of 20-something hitchhikers.

As they began to reveal their stories of coming to the islands...and basically never leaving, it was then our time to share about visiting on behalf of the U.S. Virgin Islands tourism bureau and staying at Maho Bay. The young man immediately proudly quipped about his passed employment there indicating he remembered Stanley Selengut. He was quite surprised to learn this legend was the unsuspecting shuttle driver who'd graciously stopped to pick them up. I'm not sure about the others, but I felt my chest swell a little with pride that I was in the company of this ecotourism pioneer as his guest...and passenger.

Those of us making the trip all received invitations for returning to Maho Bay any time as his special guests. Offers like these are too good for me to pass up; especially when it involves "anywhere" Caribbean and with these soothing natural environments. But something tells me I'd have to...unless, I could lure Stanley back to join me.

One of the things that excites me the most about being on St. John is the ease with which a person can get around without the convenience of a rental car. There are licensed taxis stationed at the major beaches, the campgrounds and if…Read More

One of the things that excites me the most about being on St. John is the ease with which a person can get around without the convenience of a rental car. There are licensed taxis stationed at the major beaches, the campgrounds and if you are afoot, you can flag one down as you make your way around. Most taxis are full-sized pickup trucks with benches attached to a platform and covered with a brightly colored canopy. A ride on a taxi can be exhilarating and sometimes hair raising as they twist and turn, race downhill and chug up inclines on the narrow roads. Most fares are posted and if not, it's always a good idea to ascertain what it will be before boarding. Tipping is always appreciated. Drivers are congenial, cordial and very accommodating. Of course a rental car for a few days is always a lot of fun to explore the outer ends of the island. Reservations can be made through the major companies before you arrive, and if you're a spur of the moment traveler, just walk into any of the agencies located in Cruz Bay and check for availability. Cruising the island in a Jeep Wrangler with the top off is a great experience. There are numerous places to stop atop a hill and take in the spectacular views of the Caribbean. Remember, drive on the left!

A few years ago bus service was initiated. For about $1.00 you can catch a bus at Cruz Bay at the west end of the island and go over to Coral Bay and Salt Pond Bay at the southeast end of the island. Schedules are posted at the bus stop in Cruz Bay.

One of our favorite ways to get around is to put on our hiking boots and head out from the campground. Maho Bay is about a two-mile walk to the east and Trunk Bay about the same distance the other way. The Centerline Trail is a great workout. It is across the road from the campground and is about 1 1/2 miles--up. This trail winds through the trees and foliage up to the Centerline Road which traverses the top of the island. There are some spectacular views of the north side of the island from this trail. Once you reach the road you can catch a bus or a taxi and go either way to Cruz Bay or to the east and southeast side of the island.

Being a product of the itinerant 70's my favorite way of getting around this island is to both hike and hitchhike. It does this 50-something soul good to know that I'm using alternate methods of transportation and not contributing to the vehicle population of a very small island. We use this method mostly in conjunction with hiking and walking along the roads. Where possible we use the trails and when it becomes necessary to walk along the roads, we merely walk forward with our arms stretched forward with index fingers pointed in the direction we wish to go. Most rides come from locals who understand this mode of transportation and sometimes from unsuspecting visitors who stop to see if there's a problem only to find themselves with a few extra people in their Jeep. There has seldom been a time when we have hiked/hitchhiked and not gotten a ride--sometimes from the same folks on different days. Whatever your fancy, this is a great island to explore.   Close

I can’t imagine a better way to see the island. We had a ton of fun riding around and it seemed pretty safe. It was $60 well spent. We definitely got a thorough safety briefing at the beginning of the rental, which…Read More

I can’t imagine a better way to see the island. We had a ton of fun riding around and it seemed pretty safe. It was $60 well spent.

We definitely got a thorough safety briefing at the beginning of the rental, which helped us avoid any potential pitfalls. It took about 30 minutes to take care of the rental, which included the aforementioned briefing, a thorough descripton of every part of the scooter, and a short ride around in the parking lot to prove your proficiency. You get a map and then you are off.

The roads are fine in most areas with nothing worse than a few potholes. It does rain sporadically, so you have to be careful on the wet roads. For us it just provided a nice excuse to stop at one of the beaches along the way. One of my favorite obstacles was a donkey in the middle of the road. My least favorite obstacle was an old lady that almost ran us off the road.

As you ride around the island you can stop at all of the beaches and relax. This is about the only way I can imagine seeing the full island and enjoying yourself along the way. Crime isn’t a big deal so you can ride and park the scooters anywhere. Also, driving on the left side of the road was no big deal once you get used to it. And since there are only a few main roads, it is hard to get lost.

It takes about 45 minutes to get from one side of the island to the other with a few quick photo stops. You can pull off at various points and take pictures at the scenic overlooks.

This was my second time in St. Thomas, and I fell in love with it all over again. The port of Charlotte Amalie is beautiful, and the island is very clean. There are amazing beaches such as Sapphire and Coki and breathtaking views…Read More

This was my second time in St. Thomas, and I fell in love with it all over again. The port of Charlotte Amalie is beautiful, and the island is very clean. There are amazing beaches such as Sapphire and Coki and breathtaking views from the hills of the island. Shopping in St. Thomas is great, and it, of course, has its fair share of touristy shops. The people are friendly and everyone speaks English. US dollars are accepted everywhere. We were saddened that we didn’t have a longer day in this port. It was a short bus ride to town from the pier. Don’t be hassled by the taxi drivers that tell you to get on their shuttle – it’s not free! They act like they work for the cruise but they don’t. There is a free shuttle that comes by (it says free on the side of it), and the driver does not get off the shuttle to hassle visitors.

The tour with Godfrey was booked at the recommendation of Cruise Critic members. It was a wonderful informational tour for a cheap price. For only $20, you are picked up by a van at the ship, taken to downtown Charlotte Amalie to shop for 2 hours, picked up by an open air trolley, and taken to a variety of stops throughout the island (I hear the stops change based on the weather). Most of them are scenic overlooks of the port of Charlotte Amalie, with amazing picture opportunities. Our guide was very knowledgeable, and we enjoyed the tour very much. We were taken to Sapphire Beach instead of Megan’s Bay because our guide said the rain at Megan’s Bay stirred up the water. There was good snorkeling off the beach at Sapphire, and it was a wonderfully clean and safe place to spend a couple hours. You will stop at an overlook where they make the famous Banana Daiquiri, but I wouldn’t waste your money; it was expensive ($7.50) and I didn’t think it was very tasty. I highly suggest Godfrey Tours. A similar excursion through the ship was twice the price. Also, if you book Godfrey Tours by emailing them, they may not respond to confirm, but don’t worry, they will pick you up. I believe he only accepts cash on the day of the tour.

I can’t imagine going to St. John and not going snorkeling and/or scuba diving. The water is so crystal clear and blue that it is irresistible. So we rented a twenty foot boat at the Westin Resort and headed out for the day.…Read More

I can’t imagine going to St. John and not going snorkeling and/or scuba diving. The water is so crystal clear and blue that it is irresistible. So we rented a twenty foot boat at the Westin Resort and headed out for the day. It proved to be one of the most relaxing, exhilarating, and enjoyable days I have ever spent on vacation.

The plan was to hit a few of the hot spots in the British Virgin Islands without having any set agenda. We left the Westin, rode around St. John, and stopped at Trunk Bay, which is usually on National Geographic’s Top 10 Beaches in the World list (I can see why). Hawksnest Beach is also a very nice place to do some easy snorkeling.

We then headed over to St. Thomas (where we had to make a quick stop in the immigration office to show our paperwork proving we were American citizens). From there, we rode about 15 minutes and started snorkeling on the far end of Tortola. There was a small little island off of Tortola that was a great place to get your feet wet so to speak and see some nice underwater sights. You will know you are coming to a snorkeling location when you see a bunch of boats anchored in a cluster.

From Tortola we went over to the Indians. The Indians are three giant red rocks that come out of the water. You swim around the Indians and see all kinds of underwater life and coral. It was very cool.

From the Indians we had lunch at the Willy Tea (a boat located in one of the nearby coves--see separate entry). After lunch, we went snorkeling in some nearby caves. The caves were particularly cool because it got very dark and spooky when you went all the way in to the end. We also saw some amazing groups of squid and very large schools of fish. Both the caves and the Indians are right off of Norman Island, which is part of the British Virgin Islands.

In summary, every place we stopped to snorkel was beautiful. The water was typically between 20-60 feet and the clarity was amazing. The water was full of sea life and the coral was breathtaking. It was easy to find the places to stop by locating the clusters of boats. Once at a prime location, there was usually a buoy to tie the boat to or some fairly shallow water to drop anchor. Definitely take the time to go snorkeling, and don’t be afraid to rent a boat and venture out on your own. The shallow water and reefs are pretty easy to see, so you shouldn’t run into any trouble if you keep your eyes open.

I was on a cruise with my wife when we stopped at St. Thomas. The second I stepped foot on the island, I knew that I was finally in paradise. The air smelled refreshing and clean. The land was very beautiful with yachts sailing…Read More

I was on a cruise with my wife when we stopped at St. Thomas. The second I stepped foot on the island, I knew that I was finally in paradise. The air smelled refreshing and clean. The land was very beautiful with yachts sailing across the crystal-clear blue waters of the Caribbean Sea.
While my wife and I were on the island, we mainly just shopped in Charlotte Amalie. One thing I would tell anyone is to be prepared to spend a lot. In Charlotte Amalie, there is a lot of jewelry stores that will try to even sale you the store. These stores offer beautiful stones, some that are very rare. I spent $642 on getting my wife a new engagement and wedding ring.
Even though it was December, it was still a hot day. The sun's heat would beat down on you like you were fighting Mike Tyson, so I suggest to anyone to make sure that you hydrate a lot over there. You can easily get exhausted if you aren't careful.
The best thing that I got to see over there was two dolphins, a mother and her baby, that swum into the small bay that the island surrounded. They were not suppose to be in the bay because of the jet skis and boats. I was glad to see that they did not get hurt while swimming towards that sea.
The main reason I say the USVI is what I put on the title is because of the similarity to Hawaii. However, instead of the "Polynesian flare", you have the "Caribbean flare". If you are on the east coast of America, you can save a lot of time and money just traveling to this island. They not only have one of most famous beaches, but you also have the other Caribbean islands right next door. You have a mixture of American and Caribbean flavor, thus giving you a relax feeling to it- You don't even need a passport to visit.
St. Thomas is a wonderful place that I plan on coming back to and exploring more. This is a secret vacation spot that doesn't get much attention in comparison to Hawaii. I now know that this place is worth coming back as much time as possible to experience the zeal and passion of the island.   Close