Flying to small airports usually means small planes. Aviation enthusiasts thrill while others cringe at the thought of a 'puddle jumper'. If you are worried about flying in these relatively small planes, I will do my best to allay your fears. Most likely, your flight…Read More

Flying to small airports usually means small planes. Aviation enthusiasts thrill while others cringe at the thought of a 'puddle jumper'. If you are worried about flying in these relatively small planes, I will do my best to allay your fears.

Most likely, your flight will originate in Honolulu or Maui’s Kahului airport. Flights depart through standard gates in Maui. If arriving from the mainland in Honolulu, you must claim your bags, exit the airport, and walk (or ride the Wiki Wiki shuttle) to the commuter terminal. Regularly scheduled airlines operating from this terminal include Island Air, Go!, and Pacific Wings. If you are planning on having something to eat between flights, don’t count on the commuter terminal. There is a small newsstand before security and a small sandwich shop in the gate area.

All flights are open seating so Southwest-like lines do form as the aircraft pulls in. Flying small planes on short routes, ground crews are able to turn aircraft around very quickly.

The older 100 flies at slower speeds. However, the plane is extremely stable and renown for it’s STOL (short takeoff or landing) capabilities. Generally, these planes only need 2,500 feet of runway to takeoff.

The climb and descent are usually the two bumpiest parts of the flight. Low altitude turbulence often occurs when land meets ocean and Hawaii has plenty of this scenario. The flight smooths out quickly and the lower operating altitudes make your trip more of a sightseeing flight.

En route, take a look at the airline’s official magazine, Holo Holo. There are some amazing coupons in this magazine, especially if you are traveling to Maui or Moloka’i. Arriving at smaller airports in the Island Air system will change your attitude about airports if you are used to feeling like a rat in a maze at major airports. The plane pulls up to it’s parking spot on the ramp, the door is opened and you walk into the gate area, claiming your bag from a large table. That’s it!

Until 2004, Island Air was part of Aloha Airlines. It is common for smaller airlines to operate behind the scenes in the guise of its parent (Mesa Airlines for American West, Skywest Airlines for Delta and United, etc.). An independent Island Air is now thriving without battling recent upstart Go! (which is operated by Mesa), Aloha and Hawaiian in the inter-island fare wars. One reason for their success is the fact that they serve two airports that none of the above mentioned airlines do; Kapalua airport on Maui, Lana’i City and Ho’olehua on Moloka’i. Other small airlines fly to these destinations, but none operate aircraft as large as Island Air does. That being said, you can take comfort in the fact that you are flying the largest aircraft possible. Island Air has two variants of the DeHavilland (now owned by Canadian Bombardier) Dash 8; the -100 (37 seats) and the brand new -400 (78 seats). If you are flying to Molokai or Lana’I, you will fly the smaller -100. The runways on these islands are 4,494 and 5,001 feet, respectively. For comparison, the runway at John Wayne airport in Santa Ana, CA is 5,701. Turboprop planes fly to these airports because of public demand, not because of the runway length. The current trend in the airline business is to offer smaller aircraft at greater frequency.

Time is of the essence when traveling to your vacation destination. The sooner you arrive, the more time you have to enjoy yourself. Don’t avoid smaller islands for lack of transportation options. Most or the larger operations allow online booking. Island Air retains a partnership with Aloha and Hawaiian so you can even book your connection flights through those airlines. My advice would be to check fares on Island Air’s website, as well. I was able to save $50 per person, per segment by booking directly with Island Air instead of booking through Hawaiian Airlines.

Driving east out of Kaunakakai on Hwy 450, it is 28 miles to the far east tip of Molokai at Halawa Valley. The drive takes over an hour without stops, but you should plan to make a few stops along the way. Around mile marker 3…Read More

Driving east out of Kaunakakai on Hwy 450, it is 28 miles to the far east tip of Molokai at Halawa Valley. The drive takes over an hour without stops, but you should plan to make a few stops along the way.

Around mile marker 3 is One Alii Beach Park. This is a small campground and picnic area.

There are two historic churches next along the drive. At around mile marker 10, there is St. Joseph’s Church, built by Father Damien in 1876. Our Lady of Seven Sorrows Church, a few miles farther on the left, is a reconstruction of another Father Damien church. This one was built in 1966.

All along the southern coast of Molokai you will see fishponds. These fishponds are pre-European (from about 13th-century on), and Molokai was supposed to have more than 60 productive fishponds. The fishponds were built with lava rock. The rock walls made an enclosure that had small gates going in from the ocean. Small fish could swim in through the small gates, then they were handfed breadfruit and sweet pototoes. They became large enough that they couldn’t swim back out, and were easily caught. These fish were used to feed royalty, and commoners were not allowed to eat them. Many of the original fishponds are degraded, but recent efforts have been made to restore these historical structures.

The Neighborhood Store N Counter is the only place on the east end for groceries or lunch. It is near mile marker 16.

At mile marker 20 is the unoriginally named Twenty-Mile Beach. This is a nice sandy beach on the sunniest and driest part of the island. If you get rained out elsewhere, try coming to Twenty Mile. There is another smaller beach a mile back at mile marker 19 called, you guessed it, Nineteen-Mile Beach.

At this point the road becomes curvier and hillier. You are driving directly on the coast at this point, and you will see picturesque bays and Mokuhooniki Island, which is a seabird sanctuary. Next you pass near Puu o Hoku Ranch, which is supposed to have guest accommodations. I didn’t see any signs of life, but I think the main buildings are farther off the main road than I could see. The ranch can be contacted at (808)558-8109.

After the ranch, there are some gnarly curves and one-lane sections of road for the final three miles. Drive slowly and be careful of oncoming traffic. Also, be careful to pay attention to the road. I know that I came around one curve to find myself face to face with the most stunning valley that I have ever seen. It was Halawa Valley, and it was virtually exploding with waterfalls. One waterfall was the largest I’ve seen in Hawaii. I think there is a hiking trail that goes into the valley, but I don’t know how long it is or if it is on private or public land. One thing I read (from the Visitors Association) says it is accessible only by guided hike, and something else I read said that some local folks are saying it is private but it actually is a public right-of-way. So I didn’t try hiking it, even though I wanted to more than anything.

At the very end of the road is scenic Halawa Bay. It is actually two separate coves. One can be dangerous when Halawa Stream is flowing fast, and the other is more calm. Parking, restrooms, and picnic tables are available at Halawa Park (the end of road).

I was still in Maui when I started to discover why Molokai is known as "The Friendly Isle." I was waiting in line at the ferry dock in Lahaina to board the Molokai Princess. There were many other people in line, most of them local…Read More

I was still in Maui when I started to discover why Molokai is known as "The Friendly Isle." I was waiting in line at the ferry dock in Lahaina to board the Molokai Princess. There were many other people in line, most of them local people from Molokai just visiting Maui for work or supplies. A young man next to me started chatting with me. After about 10 minutes of conversation, he offered to get me on the ferry for free because his uncle is the captain. Of course I declined, but he went ahead and arranged it anyway. Super friendly! At this point I should add that he was obviously trying to pick me up. (Too bad I’m too old, and too married... ahem.)

Gabe spent the rest of the 1.5 hour ferry ride checking on me occassionally, bringing me a juice, and talking with me some more. Also on the ferry ride I meet Pat. She is a 75-year-old woman who early in the conversation proclaimed herself to be a "recluse." She was down on her luck because the car she keeps on Maui for work was broken into that day. I listened with a sympathetic ear, and Gabe gave her a hug, and she cheered up some. The three of us had a nice time watching the sunset from the ferry together.

When the ferry arrived in Molokai, I set off to look for my rental car, which was supposed to be left at the ferry dock for me. I had a description and license plate number. After checking three times, I realized it wasn’t there. I had no idea what to do next. Just then, Pat pulled up to check on me. When she found out what happened, she immediately offered me a ride and a place to stay at her house (I had been planning to camp after I got me rental car). Her passenger (who I had never met) also offered me a place, and Gabe came over and also offered me a place. I have never encountered such generosity!

We settled on Pat giving me a ride to the campground, which was on her way home. From there I would walk to town (4 miles) or call the car rental company. The only problem was that I had to be at The Nature Conservancy office by 7:30am to volunteer with them for the day. I had no clue how or if I’d make it there. But at this point I knew I was just going to go with the flow. I have learned in recent years that things usually work out in the end, so try not to stress out too much. It’s not healthy! Or fun!

On the way home, Pat decides to stop at Hotel Molokai for a drink and dinner. I was just a passenger in her car, so I guessed I’d check out Hotel Molokai too. I ended up buying Pat a drink and dinner for all her help. Pat introduced me to the manager of the hotel, and she told him my dilema. He called his wife, who works in the rental car business, and found out that she didn’t have anything and that all the rental cars were sold out for the weekend. Oh boy! Here we go again!

Al, the hotel manager, also gave me a better camping option since it was only 2 miles from town (and Pat was a bit tipsy anyway). I could camp behind the kayak rack as long as I was cleared out of there by 7am, so the guests wouldn’t see me. He even got me a lounge chair to sleep on, after assuring me it wouldn’t rain. It was great! Molokai folks sure understand the word hospitality!

I cleared out early in the morning and walked to town by 6:30am. But, of course the rental car folks were not in the office yet. I pondered my situation over coffee from the deli. I finally broke down an called The Nature Conservancy at 7:15am and told them my problem, and how disappointed I was to miss a chance to volunteer with them (it was the only day they were going in the field during my visit to Molokai). Lickety split, one of them was off to pick me up! Meanwhile, the rental car mechanic showed up. I explained that I was stranded the night before. He said the office people don’t arrive until 10am. I told him my name, where I was going, that I still needed a car, and that I’d be back late in the afternoon.

Lovely (and friendly!) Lori picked me up in town and took me for a super enjoyable day at Kamakou Preserve. The hard work and sweat therapy did wonders for my stress level, and my three coworkers were fantastic! Stephanie said that if I didn’t get a rental car, that I could use hers since she was going to Oahu for the weekend anyway. Could I just make sure to take it to the charity car wash on Saturday? She also offered me to stay at her place. I smiled and said "You’ve only known me for one day!" She smiled and said "That’s OK!" The aloha spirit is STRONG on Molokai. I told her that I might take her up on the car offer if I couldn’t get a rental car, but thanks anyway for now.

We got back to The Nature Conservancy office late–-almost 5pm. I was really really really hoping the rental car people had not gone home for the day. I hopped out of the work truck as soon as we pulled in, so that I could rush inside and call before 5pm. Before I even reached the door, the secretary came out and gave me a phone message from the car rental company. The mechanic must have remember where I was going.

I called back and the owner profusely apologized. She said she had a car for me, super cheap, and her husband would pick me up at The Nature Conservancy. I took a quick shower, and he was arriving just when I walked out. At the office, the owner explained that there was a new girl who was making a lot of mistakes. She assured me that she yelled at her for me…. I told the new girl that it was OK, everyone makes mistakes. No worries. No problem. I was thanked for being so understanding. I paid $48 for four days with a rental car. Don’t get angry-–get adventurous! Everyone has a bad day, it all worked out in the end, and I met some friendly folks along the way. Now on with the rest of my vacation.

The next days were very nice-–uneventful, but I had enough excitement for a while. When I returned to the ferry dock to go back to Maui, I found Gabe waiting for me. He said he had looked all over for me at the campgrounds, but we must have missed each other. He wanted to check on me, or hang out. He rode all the way back to Maui with me (even though he immediately turned around and went back to Molokai). We decided that he was definitely building up some good karma, with all that looking out for me.

I saw Pat a few weeks later in Lahaina. She was tipsy again and didn’t remember me at all! Life is so funny!

Molokai has definitely inspired me to practice Aloha every day in my life. In the December 2002 issue of National Geographic, Puna Dawson explains: "Everyone says Aloha, but I don’t know how many really know what it means. Each letter has its own thought. The first is Akahoi, to be kind. The second is Lokahi, to be inclusive. The third is Olu’olu, to be agreeable. Ha’aha’a is the fourth, to be humble. Ahonui is the last and means patience. There are the characteristics of Hawaiian people."

This is one of the least populated Islands of Hawaii. Very quiet, not tons of nightlife. Great if you want a quiet, peaceful getaway, away from the throng of tourists on the other Hawaiian islands, with absolutely beautiful beaches.…Read More

This is one of the least populated Islands of Hawaii. Very quiet, not tons of nightlife. Great if you want a quiet, peaceful getaway, away from the throng of tourists on the other Hawaiian islands, with absolutely beautiful beaches.Close