Arriving in Cordoba, it's difficult not to be impressed as the Mezquita looms large on the horizon. This magnificent, former Mosque is now the city's Cathedral and undoubtedly, its most famous attraction and landmark. This was probably the main reason we were visiting the city,…Read More

Arriving in Cordoba, it's difficult not to be impressed as the Mezquita looms large on the horizon. This magnificent, former Mosque is now the city's Cathedral and undoubtedly, its most famous attraction and landmark. This was probably the main reason we were visiting the city, and we had booked accommodation at the Hotel Maimonides, literally feet from the Mezquita.

Of course, there is far more to Cordoba than just the Mezquita.

There's the fortress on the river, the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos which was built in 1328 and from where Ferdinand and Isabella governed Castille during their preparat
ion to reconquer Granada. This is where Columbus told Isabella of his plans of exploration - there's a statue depicting this momentous occasion. It's worth a visit if only for the beautiful gardens, but there are the remains of a Roman temple and some excellent examples of mosaics on show.
The opening hours are far too convoluted to list here, suffice to say, it's closed from 14.000-18.00 for the siesta and admission is ? 2.

Speaking of the river, there are some lovely walks alongside where you can see the remains of several old, Moorish mills, one of which used to pump water up to the gardens of the Alcazar.

There are plenty of museums and galleries in the city to whet the appetite of the most eager-beaver culture-vulture, but Cordoba's very streets are a living museum, and nowhere more so than the area surrounding the Mezquita, La Judería.

Cordoba's medieval district was once home to the large Jewish community. It's a veritable labyrinth of winding, twisting, narrow streets, shaded geranium-filled patios and pretty little plazas. It's said that the best way to explore La Judería is simply to get lost amongst the maze of narrow alleyways - it's not difficult. Within 5 minutes and 100m of leaving our hotel, I'd say we were well and truly lost. The good thing about this is that you discover hidden little treasures around each corner - the downside is that you tend to walk the same streets over and over and possibly miss out on other little gems.
When exploring this labyrinth, you'll notice that many people seem rather nosy by staring through the gates into the resident's patio. The Cordobans don't mind though - in fact many actively encourage it by leaving the doors open so passers-by can gaze at the beautiful ceramics, trickling fountains and flower bedecked gardens within.
There's actually a fiesta in early May with competitions for the best patios.

Also in the Jewish Quarter, you can find one of the few synagogues which still exist in Spain. This one dates from 1315 although I have to say, it's not very impressive. Close by, is the Zoco -a collection of buildings and courtyards where you can find traditional crafts and, if you are lucky, catch a Flamenco performance.

The whole area is a bustling, lively place, and this is where you'll find a great number of tourist-orientated businesses - souvenir shops, local crafts, bars and restaurants etc. Many of the shops stock Moorish type artifacts and, although quite a lot of businesses descend towards the tacky, there's still plenty of quality to be found.

There are any number of opportunities for eating and drinking in this area, from sandwich bars to elegant restaurants and international cuisine to junk food - there's even a BK and Pizza Hut (in tasteful buildings) directly opposite the Mezquita...classy. With such a variety of choice, it's hard to decide, so we settled for grazing. We just wandered around, stopping at various bars for a drink and tapas.

In conclusion, Cordoba is a fascinating city. It has retained its medieval heart and has character by the sack load. There's culture, history and architecture; excellent eating and drinking, great shopping, and a myriad little hidden treasures to discover.
As for the Mezquita? - Wow!

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The Jewish Quarter is the best-known part of Cordoba's historic centre, which was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1984 and is one of the largest in Europe. To the northwest of the Mosque-Cathedral along the city wall, its medieval streets have a…Read More

The Jewish Quarter is the best-known part of Cordoba's historic centre, which was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1984 and is one of the largest in Europe. To the northwest of the Mosque-Cathedral along the city wall, its medieval streets have a distinctly Moorish flair to them, reminiscent of the Jews' prosperity under the Caliphate of Cordoba. The neighbourhood consists of a fascinating network of narrow lanes, more atmospheric and less commercialised than in Seville. We just loved wandering around. Of special interest are the Synagogue and Souk. It is something not to be missed and adds an extra dimension to the story of the cathedral mosque.

Jews formed a part of Cordoba's cultural mix from as early as the 2nd Century until their expulsion from Spain in 1492. Under the Moslems, both Jews and Christians were given some religious freedom and self-governing communities. This arrangement was profitable to their rulers, who improved their tax revenue with special household taxes for non-Moslems.

During the 11th and 12th centuries the Jewish population in Spain reached its point of greatest prosperity, intellectual energy and well-being, coinciding with Cordoba's greatest moment in history. Hasday ben Shaprut, the governor of the Jewish community, became an influential minister to the first Caliph, Abd al-Rahman III, increasing his people's well-being and turning Cordoba into the most significant center of Jewish learning and culture in the world, taking the place of the Babylonian School.

In 1315 Simon Majeb built the Synagogue which still stands today. It is one of the three significant synagogues remaining in Spain and is largely unaltered (its Mudejar reliefs were covered and it was used as a church then a rabies hospital, the seat of the shoe-makers' guild and finally a 19th-century primary school). We visited one morning and were fascinated by what we found. The interior includes a gallery for women and plaster work with inscriptions from Hebrew psalms and others with plant motifs on the upper part. Its main beautifully restored wall, has a semi-circular arch where a chest with the Holy Scrolls of Law used to be kept. The buildings around it were probably used as public baths and a Talmudic school. Outside is a Statue of Moorish Philosopher Maimónides.

The rest of the neighborhood has a distinctly Islamic air. Nearby is the Zoco (Souk), a medieval version of the famed Arabic souks which used to dot the urban landscape of the Caliphate. Below the oldest houses are Roman remains, and while some of the houses are increasingly modern, they respect the ancient urban layout.
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When I was in Cordoba, I could not miss a visit of some patios in the old city because the adorable patios of Cordoba are really appealing. There are some which are luxurious others that are deeply popular, but all are original and extraordinarily clean,…Read More

When I was in Cordoba, I could not miss a visit of some patios in the old city because the adorable patios of Cordoba are really appealing. There are some which are luxurious others that are deeply popular, but all are original and extraordinarily clean, introverted, intimate and decorated with plants and flowers. The patios have two origins: Roman and Arabian. The Cordovan patio was the intimate "agora" of the Roman and the intimate corner of the Arabic.

Do not believe that the patio is only seen in the big houses. The patios are like small gardens that flood the house with joy, beauty and liberty, and that is why the patios are present even in the most modest homes and its reason is thus the same in the palace that in the humblest lodgings.

The patios of Cordoba communicate directly with the rooms and the galleries of the houses. Sometimes the communication between the patio and the interior is done through the intermediary of windows and balconies, sometimes by porches or even balustrades

The walls that surround the patios are covered literally of flowers and trailing plants. Oranges, lemon trees and flowers of all sorts perfuming the whole patio give it a small air of continual feast and offer us some tranquillity in the heart of the city.

The patios are so much part of the city life that during the first two weeks of May, there is a Patio Festival during which people exuberantly decorate their patios in order to get a prize.

The patios that you can admire in Cordoba are very numerous, very different one from another, all have their particular style. The 14 patios of the palace of the Marquis of Viana are definitely worth a visit. Entrance is €6 and the patios are open to the public Mondays to Fridays from 10am to 1pm and 4pm to 6pm (closed on Saturdays afternoons and Sundays).

The Palacio Museo de Viana is a beautiful mansion covering an area of 6,500 square metres. Inside you can appreciate the evolution of the Cordovan architecture from the 14th century until nowadays, as well as the most diverse types of craft: pavements with Roman mosaics, carpentry, etc. However, the patios are in my opinion more interesting than the interior. The 15th century patio at the entrance is pleasantly decorated, like all the others in which there are numerous orange trees, cypresses, water fountains and flowers and it is a real pleasure going from a patio to another and discover a different style, different influence.

Of course, there are other patios to visit in the area (Plaza Obispo; Calle Basilio 50; Calle Cardinal Herrero 16, Calle Badanas 15, Calle José Rey, Calle Don Rodrigo, Calle of Enmedio 25 and 29, etc.). You can ask at the Tourist Office which ones are open during your stay in Cordoba. Close

History literally surrounds you in Córdoba in the form of innumerable buildings attesting to the various cultures that have influenced the city. Despite, or perhaps because of, their individual majesty, there’s nowhere that provides a sense of Córdoba’s history as a whole. Consequently, I hope…Read More

History literally surrounds you in Córdoba in the form of innumerable buildings attesting to the various cultures that have influenced the city. Despite, or perhaps because of, their individual majesty, there’s nowhere that provides a sense of Córdoba’s history as a whole. Consequently, I hope this brief summary can serve that purpose.

As a result of its position along the River Guadalquivir, Córdoba has been inhabited since pre-historic times: the skeleton of a caveman nicknamed “first Córdobes,” which was found in nearby Zuheros, has been dated to 4,000 BC Archaeologists believe that a village was established here around 1,500 BC by immigrants from Almería in southeastern Spain, who are responsible for the region’s numerous dolmens (large stone monuments.) They were in turn subdued by Iberian settlers from the Phoenician city of Gades (modern Cádiz), around the 7th century BC, who in turn were conquered by Roman forces in 206 BC. The tantalizingly few remnants of these cultures that exist are to be found at the excellent Archaeological Museum at Plaza Jeronimo 7.

Although Córdoba is best known for its role as the capital of Islamic Spain for half a milennium, it was ruled by the Romans for an even longer period. Indeed, the city owes both its present location and its name to the Romans, who founded a walled settlement in the present city center during the first century of their rule, which they called “Corduba.” Despite suffering from an earthquake in 76 BC and repeated raids by the native Iberians, Corduba prospered to the extent that it became a major prize in the civil war between Julius Caesar and Pompey three decades later. Although Corduba’s citizenry sustained heavy casualties in the fighting (possibly as many as 20,000 deaths), the city itself remained prominent, and when the Emperor Augustus reorganized the Roman Empire in 14 BC, it was chosen as the capital of Hispania Baetica. This event was commemorated with the construction of a massive Temple in his honor, much of which remains intact.

The southernmost of Rome’s three Iberian Provinces, Hispania Baetica was approximately coterminous with the modern Spanish autonomía of Andalucía. Despite its distance from Italy, Hispania Baetica became so thoroughly Romanized that the Emperor Vespasian extended Roman citizenship rights to its inhabitants in the late 1st century AD. It was further honored in 98 AD, when Trajan became the first Roman emperor born outside Italy. Both he and his successor, Hadrian, were born in Italica (near modern Seville) rather than Corduba, but their assumption of power illustrates just how important Hispania Baetica had become. Its fields supplied Rome’s legions in Germania (many of whose veterans later settled around Corduba), and this agricultural wealth, coupled by the importance of trade at Gades, led Corduba to become one of the Empire’s richest cities. Unfortunately, an earthquake in 262 AD destroyed much of the Amphitheater to the east of the city (one of the Empire’s largest), but the Temple and the Roman Bridge, which remains intact, give some sense of Corduba’s grandeur.

Corduba’s status declined with that of the Roman Empire, although it managed to remain independent of the Visigoths (who conquered the rest of Iberia) until 584. Little evidence remains of Visigothic rule, primarily because of Córdoba’s subservience to the Visigothic capital of Toledo. In 711, both Córdoba and the Visigothic Kingdom fell to Umayyad invaders from the Emirate of Damascus. Unlike the Visigoths, the Umayyads had invaded from the south and therefore regarded Córdoba as an excellent base from which to consolidate their holdings in Spain. Consequently, in 716, Emir al-Hurr made it his administrative center in 716, calling it Qurtubah. In the disorder following the Umayyad dynasty’s fall in 750, Abd-ar-Rahman I seized power and established an independent emirate with its capital at Qurtubah in 756. Abd-ar-Rahman ruled until 788, during which time he ordered the construction of Qurtubah’s Great Mosque (now known as the “Mezquita”), among other extensive building projects.

Under Abd-ar-Rahman I’s successor, Qurtubah grew in wealth and prestige and, as well as retaining its economic importance, became a major intellectual center. The increasing influence of the Umayyad Emirate led Abd-ar-Rahman III to declare it an independent caliphate in 929, equivalent in modern terms to calling a kingdom an empire, a direct challenge to the rival Abbasid caliphs in Baghdad. Within Qurtubah, Abd-ar-Rahman III authorized lavish architectural projects, none more grandiose than the Medina Azahara outside the city. Under the Caliphate, Qurtubah achieved its greatest period of wealth and intellectual prestige, rivaled among European cities only by Constantinople. Ironically, its population was roughly comparable to its present 300,000, which, in modern terms, makes it little more than a particularly fascinating provincial city. This period also saw the flowering of Qurtubah as the “City of the Three Cultures,” where Christian, Jewish, and Muslim learning coexisted in a manner that arguably never has been replicated.

The Umayyad Caliphate collapsed into civil war in 1031 and the infighting that engulfed Islamic Spain led to the creation of taifas (city-states), a development that in the long run facilitated the Christian reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula. In 1086, the warring princes invited Yusuf ibn Tashfin, the leader of the North African Almoravids, to assist them in dealing with Christian aggressive. Yusuf ibn Tashfin did so at the Battle of az-Zallaqah, then returned in 1091 with the explicit aim of dethroning them on account of their military incompetence and religious laxity. He gained popular support because of the princes’ policies of excessive taxation and restored unity to the Islamic lands in Iberia.

The Almoravids gradually lost land to the Christians to the north but were ultimately deposed by another Islamic North African dynasty, the Almohads, in 1147. In 1162, the Almohads established Qurtubah as the capital of a kingdom they proclaimed as a caliphate, which stretched across most of North Africa. They rebuilt many of the city’s fortifications but also restricted the religious toleration shown by the Umayyads (and to a lesser degree, the taifas), ordering Qurtubah’s Christian and Jewish populations to accept conversion, exile, and death. Amongst those to be exiled was the great Jewish philosopher Maimonides, a native of Qurtubah who, contrary to the impression created by his ubiquity in Córdoba’s tourism materials, actually composed all of his great works either while fleeing Qurtubah or in North Africa. The Almohads also persecuted and exiled Qurtubah’s greatest Muslim philosopher, Averroes, on account of his family’s connections to the Almoravids and his incorporation of non-Islamic thinkers in his work.

The Almoravids themselves were supplanted by a similarly religious force in the form of Ferdinand III, King of Castile and Leon (which later united with Aragon to form the Spanish Kingdom) who conquered Qurtubah in 1236. He was later canonized for his efforts. His successor, Alfonso X, known as “El Sabio” (“The Wise” or “The Learned”), sought to reintroduce some measure of religious and intellectual toleration, but his son and successor, Sancho IV, put paid to such ideas. Córdoba, as the city was rechristened, became a key center for the Christian reconquest of Spain, and later the Inquisition. The conversion of most of Córdoba’s mosques into churches dates to this period, as do the Calahorra Tower (at the end of the Roman Bridge) and most of the Alcazar’s fortification. In general, Córdoba declined in influence as the monarchs of Castile and Leon generally preferred to hold court at Toledo. After the union of Castile and Aragon in 1485, Queen Isabella of Castile and Leon briefly reestablished Córdoba as her court in order to supervise the conquest of Granada, the last Islamic taifa in Spain. Consequently, it was here that she and her husband Ferdinand II of Aragon first heard Christopher Columbus’ first plea for financial support for his voyage in 1485 and his second in 1492, which they granted for fear the Portuguese would do the same.

With the completion of the Christian Reconquest of Spain in 1492 and the silting up of the Guadalquivir, Córdoba lost its political and economic significance and gradually atrophied into a reasonably prosperous provincial city and a center for the Inquisition. In the late 19th century, tourists “rediscovered” the Mezquita, leading it to become a popular destination for visitors to Spain, as it remains to this day.

Where does one even start with the Mezquita? There is so much information out there that I don’t want to write the same boring thing as usual. It is such a remarkable building that it is even hard to put into words.…Read More

Where does one even start with the Mezquita? There is so much information out there that I don’t want to write the same boring thing as usual. It is such a remarkable building that it is even hard to put into words. Those of you who have visited already will know what I mean.

I guess you could say that my husband and I were in the right place at the right time when we decided to visit. It was Palm Sunday and didn’t have any idea of visiting hours because of mass. We decided to just go there and if we couldn’t go in yet we would find something else to do until we could. We were in for a nice surprise.

Just as we arrived at the Mezquita the doors were wide open and nobody at the door to take tickets (normally €6.50 per person). It is free to enter during Mass, which is held quite frequently, but you can only be in there if you intend to stay for mass. We figured we would just poke our heads in for a few minutes to see if mass was over or about to begin. After about 5 minutes of wandering around we saw a group starting to form at the door. Lo and behold we were there just in time for Palm Sunday mass. As we approached the door we saw a whole procession of clergy and followers with Palm leaves and olive branches coming through the Puerta del Perdón at the Torre del Alminar (Bell Tower). It was an awesome sight to see the whole procession make their way through the Patio de los Naranjos through the Mezquita and into the cathedral.

As people scrambled for seats we continued to browse around until the security guards started herding everyone to the other side since the middle and one wing were already full. We finally ended up with a seat on the wing closest to the entrance. There was a large screen set up with camera to broadcast to the wings. It ended up being standing-room only for the mass.

Tom and I sat there in awe. We had no idea what they were saying since it was in Spanish, but it was moving, regardless of the language. After an initial verse there were three men, two on the pulpits on the sides and one in the middle who sang for nearly an hour. It was more of a chant, but they had the most beautiful, deep voices that carried throughout the building and in that hour they never missed a cue changing from one person to another every minute or so. It just gave me goose bumps sitting there listening to it. We still don’t know what they were singing about, but I consider myself lucky to have witnessed it.

We didn’t get to see the entire building or spend as much time in there as we originally wanted to, but I came away from the Mezquita with a memory that will last a lifetime. The rest of it I will have to see in other people’s pictures.

The only other thing I would like to add about the Mezquita is a comment about the cathedral plopped down right in the middle of this fine architectural masterpiece in the 16th century. It was almost surreal to sit and watch Mass in this building and turn my head to the left to see such an odd contrast of the double arches and columns in such a sharp reddish color. I have never seen such an odd contrast. It is just something you have to see for yourself to believe.

In Spanish culture, the patio plays a major role in family and social life. Typical Spanish homes are U-shaped and the patios are located in the center of the home. The bedrooms and living room are on the first floor. Traditional patio features include a…Read More

In Spanish culture, the patio plays a major role in family and social life. Typical Spanish homes are U-shaped and the patios are located in the center of the home. The bedrooms and living room are on the first floor. Traditional patio features include a well or fountain, delicate arches, iron gates, pots full of flowers and gorgeous tilework. It is not uncommon to find a tiled portrait of a saint somewhere along the whitewashed walls. The rest of the patio's charm comes from the residents. Many Spaniards choose to decorate with other elements like classical statues and orange trees.

The residents of Cordoba take much pride in their patio gardens and enjoy showing them off. Photographs are taken as high compliments. During the month of May most patios are opened to the public for the "Festival de los Patios" and contest. Everyone basically goes "patio-hopping" to admire the gardens and enjoy spontaneous outbursts of flamenco song and dance. Whoever has the most beautifully decorated patio wins a nice prize!

I strongly recommend having a look at these beautiful patios any time of year, but especially if traveling in May. Juderia is a wonderful place to see them, but there are other locations around the city as well. I've been told that the San Basillo neighborhood west of Mezquita is also a fine place to have a look.

We experienced the entire spectrum in price, quality, and service in Cordoba.These included some of our least memorable meals to some little gems. Then there were prices from supremely good value through to exorbitant. The sheer number of tourists that visit would account for that.…Read More

We experienced the entire spectrum in price, quality, and service in Cordoba.

These included some of our least memorable meals to some little gems. Then there were prices from supremely good value through to exorbitant. The sheer number of tourists that visit would account for that. Be warned, check the menu or ask the price first.

One such cafe in the Juderia quarter charged €5 for a tiny ham and cheese roll! They neglected to tell us that the ham was Serrano, one of Spain's delicacies but the beautiful flavour was lost in the dough. Made for a case of instant indigestion!

Another place we ate served pasta straight from the freezer to microwave to table and accompanied it with the rudest waiter I ever come across anywhere in the world!

A couple of places that I would have no hesitation in recommending are below.

For a great breakfast, lunch, dinner, or just a coffee try La, La, La. A smart, humming little café with a light and airy skylight in the middle and good service with the meals coming out quickly. They offered a really good range of dishes with everything from a full cooked breakfast, Spanish omelet, pizzas, salads, and so on. They also had fabulous coffee which in Spain is really saying something as coffee is an art form here. This little cafe quickly became our favourite local rest stop and amazingly the staff quickly recognised us.

One of the best meals that we had in Spain was at the Meson “La Moreneta”. A really traditional restaurant that doesn't look anything out of the ordinary but with some real homemade and authentic cooking. The service did tend to come with a side dish of machismo but hey, the food was worth it. They offered set menus of 3 courses from €8.60. Some choices included a delicious Paella Mixta which was absolutely delicious, Gazpacho (traditional tomato soup served cold), or a mixed salad. These menus also included a dessert such as a great crème caramel, bread, and a glass of great local wine. The food and service was a step up from your normal touristy fare.

It's all the luck of the draw I guess!Close

After spending the night in Madrid, we ventured down to Estacion RENFE Chamartin (train station, RENFE is the Spanish national railways) in the north of Madrid to pick up our "Coche de alquiler" (rental car) from National/Atesa. At the last minute we decided to…Read More

After spending the night in Madrid, we ventured down to Estacion RENFE Chamartin (train station, RENFE is the Spanish national railways) in the north of Madrid to pick up our "Coche de alquiler" (rental car) from National/Atesa. At the last minute we decided to ask for a diesel to keep down some costs, and it did as diesel was cheaper and the car more efficient. Diesel was running around €0.70/liter (~$3.17/gallon) and gas was around €0.80-0.85/liter (~$3.62-3.85/gallon). We ended up with a little Citroën Saxo 1.5D, which got great economy and was a blast to drive. Except uphill!

Since we have driven all over Western Europe, we were curious as to how the roads were going to rank here in Spain. Overall they were pretty good; a step below such roads as France’s Autoroute network but still generally on par with American roads and better than Irish roads. The road network does seem to be improving as we saw evidence of road construction everywhere.

Autovías and tolls:
We used the Autovías when we needed to go long distances or make up some time. Generally they were fast and in good condition. Some of them are toll roads (peaje) and can be expensive. The toll roads are nice and you can move rather quickly on them. You don’t pick up tickets; you pay for the section you just completed. Tolls can be paid with cash, credit card or by telepay, a prepayment system for frequent users. If you plan on paying with credit card, make sure you are in the correct lane, which should be clearly marked with "tarjetas" and/or a picture of credit cards. For the most part, we avoided the toll roads as there were parallel roads that were almost as good. During peak travel times (summer) the Autovías Peaje would be a good bet.

Stations and Facilities:
Facilities along the roads were generally good, too. Areas de Servicios are in abundance along the major road networks. You will find gas stations and sometimes a restaurante/cafeteria and many times a hotel or hostel. Toilets are "los servicios" and are usually marked. Hint: try to carry some of your own toilet paper. I used my own on several occasions. Hand wipes and/or anti-bacterial gel is another good thing to have as soap and hand-towels seemed to be in short supply.

Honking and tailgating:
Drivers in Spain tend to be opportunistic and tailgate frequently, even at high speeds. When you are driving 140kph on an open road and someone tailgates you it can be a little unnerving. We found that if you just take your foot off of the accelerator (don't brake!) and slow down a little people will generally pass you. Of course, if you're on a dual carriageway you should NEVER drive in the left-hand lane unless you're overtaking someone. Honking seems to be something learned in driving school. You will sometimes wonder, "What did I do??" I swear people just honk to hear themselves honk. They seemed to be worst when they were stuck in traffic, as if honking is going to make a difference. Honking is also common at a stoplight if you don’t get your foot on the accelerator fast enough!!

Opening times for service stations:
Traveling over Semana Santa, or Holy Week, we didn’t know when and if things would be open, but we soon found that it wasn’t an issue at all. Petrol, or gas, stations were open all over the place during siesta time even on Good Friday and throughout Easter weekend. This was a pleasant surprise, as in the south of France and in Italy, it can be very difficult to find open petrol stations during siesta times and on holidays/Sundays.

Signage:
We noticed that Spain seemed to be really good about signage…at least the parts we traveled. Our 2004 Spain map did not correspond with the junctions/exits, it seems they just renumbered their road exits. Other than that, things were well-signed. The official speed limits in Spain are 50 in built-up areas, 90 on two-lane roads and 120 on dual carriageways unless otherwise marked. There are "recommended" speed signs, as well. These are blue squares with white writing. You will notice these when conditions on the road change such as hilly or curvy roads. This is actually a standard sign in Europe, but the only other place I've seen it is on the German Autobahnen (130 km/h recommended speed). Another surprise was presence of signs showing the road number you are on. Good luck finding one of these in some other European countries. Construction zones are indicated by yellow signs and road markings.

Mountain Roads:
Mountain roads are very scenic and offer a great opportunity to see things you wouldn’t normally see. The downside is that the mountain roads are very slow-going and it can be miserable to be stuck behind a tour bus or tractor when you can’t see around them to pass. Many of the roads are narrow and precipitous as well. If you've driven in the Italian Alps, then you get the idea.

Cities:

• A blue VP sign shows the Via Preferente which is a bus and taxi lane in a city.
• There are zebra crossings (crosswalks without a light) like the UK. In the UK you must stop for someone in a zebra crossing and most people do follow this rule. This is not the case in Spain. Some drivers were courteous enough to stop, but others just barreled right through them. Pedestrians, however, will still walk out in front of traffic at a zebra crossing (an act of misplaced faith!).
• Another difference from UK driving is the flashing of brights (high beams) or headlights. Here in the UK, by law, it means something like "watch out, I am here". In actual use on the road, though, it means, "go ahead, I give you the right of way". In Spain it means, "Get out of the way, I am coming through!"
• People often park their cars wherever they fancy. This may be on the corners of each block or on crossings, etc. This doesn’t mean it is legal; they just haven’t been ticketed.
• Most areas we visited had a parking problem. The cities are just overcrowded with cars parked everywhere. It may be difficult to park in the street.
• Many times you will find that there is a person to "help" you find a place to park and they will expect some form of payment from €0.50-€1.00. Be prepared to pay them if they are standing there. I read about bad things happening such as flat tires and broken mirrors if you don’t pay them. If you don’t like it, go elsewhere for a space.
• Pay and display areas are popular and they are usually indicated by a blue hashed line. Make sure you check on maximum time allowed. The best time to find a space is during siesta. Plus, parking is generally free during this time, and if you feed the pay and display machine, it will add this time to your ticket!
• You will also find multi-storey car parks in city centers. Completo means it is full and libre means free spaces, not free parking.

This is one of Andalucia's most visited monuments. Not comparable to the splendour of the Mezquita, it's more of an ongoing archaeological dig. Only about one-tenth of the former palatial city has been uncovered. It is a bus ride, 5km, out of Cordoba. Building began in…Read More

This is one of Andalucia's most visited monuments. Not comparable to the splendour of the Mezquita, it's more of an ongoing archaeological dig. Only about one-tenth of the former palatial city has been uncovered. It is a bus ride, 5km, out of Cordoba. Building began in 936 by Abd al-Rahman III. Apparently 10,000 men worked on the site, and when finished, the king and his ministers had 3,750 slaves. After the death of one of his heirs in 1008, civil strife broke out, and only 70 years after its completion, military occupation led to it destruction. It's a look (much by the imagination) at one of the most beautiful monuments in Al-Andalus (Andalucia.) Helpful hints: Closed Mondays Free admission and bus with Cordoba Card 1,50 entry Free to EU citizensClose

A good way of saving money and a great encouragement to see all on offer is to buy a Cordoba card. This gives you free admission to many places and a percentage off on others. You can buy a 1-day card for 17 Euros, 2-day for…Read More

A good way of saving money and a great encouragement to see all on offer is to buy a Cordoba card. This gives you free admission to many places and a percentage off on others. You can buy a 1-day card for 17 Euros, 2-day for 27, and 3-day for 37 Euros. This means you can go back and visit places again, as 1 day of walking around trying to cram everything in is not enough: all becomes a bit of a blur and the magnificence the Mezquita is something not to be rushed. Cards can be bought at Estacion AVE REFE, the train station, as well as other posts round the city. They are also available online and can be sent to your home or collected on arrival. See www.cordobacard.com.Close