Less than 10 km west of downtown Lisbon, is the Tagus to the Belém district, rich in museums and sights and monuments from the period of exploration. Although Belem today has become a modern residential area, it remains part of Lisbon in particular historical and…Read More

Less than 10 km west of downtown Lisbon, is the Tagus to the Belém district, rich in museums and sights and monuments from the period of exploration. Although Belem today has become a modern residential area, it remains part of Lisbon in particular historical and cultural significance.

Ponte de 25 de Abril
We take the bus 714 from Praca da Figueira towards Belém. During the half hour ride along the banks of the Tagus is the Ponte 25 de Abril the only attraction, a massive bridge that is named after the day the revolution broke out in Portugal. If the sight of the Ponte 25 de Abril makes you think of the SF bridge , it is certainly no coincidence, it concerns the same maker.

Belém
Belém (Portuguese for Bethlehem) can not miss from your program when you're in Lisbon a few days. This section is located in the west of the city near the banks of the Tagus. Especially Torre de Belem and Padrão dos Descobrimentos are worth a visit. Possibly you can also actually add the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos.

The Padrão dos Descobrimentos is shaped like the prow of a caravel in which Henry the Navigator is shown followed by a row of heroes. An elevator can take you to the top of the sculpture 54 meters high from where you start and gives a great view of Belem and the rest of the environment (including the Cristo Rei statue). From the top of the Padrão dos Descobrimentos you also have a nice view of the compass through a drawing depicts the explorations of Portugal. A beautiful tile that is indeed a gift from Africa.

The Torre de Belem is a bit difficult to find, since the tower is small and is also right at the back of Belem that he is not so easily visible. Looking at the many stairs of the tower to climb to visit all the watchtowers, battlements, arrow slits and recesses of the building, he appears much less small! The tower was commissioned in 1515 by Dom Manuel I built in order to protect the harbor.

Many tourists add to the obligatory visits in Belém, the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos, a huge building built in Manueline style that more than 70 years took to complete. It is one of the few buildings in Lisbon, who were not destroyed by the great earthquake of 1515 and the great flood. The exterior of the building is certainly impressive, especially because of its size. A portion of the inside of the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos offers room for the Museu da Marinha and the Museu Nacional de Arqueologia.

Pasteis de Belem
Once you have visited Belém, just be sure to visit Pasteis de Belem at Rua de Belem. This store exists since 1837 and is best known for the traditional Pastel de natas Lisbon. The recipe was and still is a mystery, for the 150 employees of the store is only a handful of people known.

Amoreiras
If we believe the travel guides, Amoreiras one of the most imposing buildings of Lisbon. It is a huge complex with three towers of mirrored glass and concrete that houses elite apartments, offices, cafes, restaurants, cinemas, galleries and even a shopping complex. Fun couple of hours if you wish to shop, but not interesting enough if you're looking for culture.

Ginjinha
Rua das Portas in the Santo Antão, a nice street with several bars and restaurants, our first taste of the famous Portuguese cherry liqueur Ginjinha.

Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara
In Lisbon there are several known miradouro's. These are places known for their beautiful city views. The miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara is one of them. Alcântara is a port district (Alcantara is Arabic for stone bridge) whose name recalls a bridge over the Tagus by the great earthquake of 1755 was destroyed. Miroudaro of the Alcântara offers a beautiful view over the city, however similar to the view from the balcony of our terrace.Close

The colorful streets of the Alfama and Mouraria, the imposing Elevador de Santa Justa, the Casa dos Bicos, the Elevador da Bica charming, the squares Praça de Comércio and Praça da Figueira of the Baixa and the famous shopping street Rua Augusta are among the…Read More

The colorful streets of the Alfama and Mouraria, the imposing Elevador de Santa Justa, the Casa dos Bicos, the Elevador da Bica charming, the squares Praça de Comércio and Praça da Figueira of the Baixa and the famous shopping street Rua Augusta are among the friendliest and most beautiful sights of Lisbon.

Sometimes you just can only be happy that an incompetent taxi driver leaves you 3 km away from your destination. In our case we had to traverse trough many narrow and winding streets and staircases before reaching our final destination Mouraria. Our first contact with Lisbon could not be better. Colorful, picturesque, local, charming, country, cozy ... it's only a handful of adjectives that can describe Alfama. Even the Casa dos Bicos, one of the most famous 15th century buildings in Lisbon, shows no match for the charm of the Petiet lit streets where locals live in Lisbon and enjoy life.

For our stay in Lisbon we had rented an apartment in Mouraria, a picturesque district in the south of the city mainly inhabited by migrants from outside Portugal, including Paskistani and Africans. They arrived in Lisbon when the government of Caetano was replaced by a democratic government that made Angola and Mozambique independent what caused many people to go to Portugal in the hope of a better future. They are small and colorful shops, cozy restaurants and pubs. Our apartment, located on the first floor of an old house in the street, Rua de São Cristóvão was, provided along the front overlooking the narrow street and along the back a viewpoint over the central part of Lisbon. The Elevador de Santa Justa, the Convento do Carmo and Praça da Figueira are just some of the sights from our balcony you could admire in the kitchen.

Praça de comércio
At two minutes walk from our apartment was Praça da Figueira, a square in which the various streets of Lisbon end. One is the Rua Augusta, a nice street with lots of drinking and dining. It is a typical tourist attraction, but one that exudes coziness.

On the south side of the Baixa, at the end of Rua Augusta, is the Praça de Comercio, a large square that stretches to the banks of the Tagus. It has long been used as a parking lot, but since 1997 has been completely re-paved and made car free. In the middle of the Praça de Comercio you will find the equestrian statue of Dom José I in memory of the same king who offered to help the victims of the earthquake of November 1, 1755 which destroyed much of Lisbon. Along the north of the square, just before the banks of the Tagus, is the imposing triumphal arch that one of the most beautiful sights of Lisbon belongs.

Elevador da Bica
The Elevador da Bica is not actually a real lift, but a tram that an interconnection between the Bairro Alto and a small district just before just before the quays of the Tagus is located and a maritime atmosphere. It is part of a series of five lifts (Elevador de Santa Justa Elevador da Gloria, Elevador da Lavra and Elevador da Bica) in Lisbon, which always aim to overcome the height between the hills.

Praca Luis de Camões
Praça Luis de Camões is ideal for a coffee break. It is a pleasant square named after the 16th century poet and located in the popular Chiado district. Chic shops (which is the most famous Rua Garret), department stores and pastel arias are just some examples of what can be found in Chiado.

Elevador de Santa Justa
The Elevador de Santa Justa is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful sights of the city. Especially at night, when the elevator is lit, the Elevador de Santa Justa fairytale beautiful. n theory, this lift was used to cross the 30 meters height difference between Baixa and Bairro Alto, but it's actually very easy to do on foot.Close

Travelling by bus in the Algarve can be a very frustrating experience but it can also be a lot of fun. Obviously, it depends on the kind of mood you are in at the time and whether you have a grumpy bus driver or not.…Read More

Travelling by bus in the Algarve can be a very frustrating experience but it can also be a lot of fun. Obviously, it depends on the kind of mood you are in at the time and whether you have a grumpy bus driver or not. I think I can safely say that most times I used the bus which was at least three or four times a week when I lived there, the bus drivers were always cantankerous but after 10 years I got used to their surly faces and they grew on me.

Eva is the name of the transport company and before I tell you about the different lines and buses I'll just give you a few basic tips:

Always purchase a ticket before you get on the bus. This is an easy transaction and can be carried out at the small kiosks at the various bus stations. Timetables are posted on the wall in a glass cabinet next to the cash desk. If you get stuck with the language don't be shy, ask in English. Most employees apart from the bus drivers will speak English.

Try and get to the bus station or stop early. Buses are generally on time and won't wait. Drivers get a little grumpy if you have lots of luggage and turn up just before the bus is about to drive off. It means he has to open the boot and he won't be happy.

It's best to know where you are going so buy a good map. In all my years of experience Portuguese bus drivers are not helpful to people who are lost and don't know when to get off. Portuguese people on the bus will help you but you might get 10 people all telling you different things. Maps are more reliable.

Now where do you want to go? Let's take a look at the Algarve first as this is the area I know best.

The Rota do Infante covers the area from Portimao to Cabo Sao Vicente taking in places like Lagos, Budens, Burgau, Salema, Sagres. It's a nice bus ride from Lagos to Sagres especially if you get on one of the new style coaches. These are fast and air conditioned. If you get on one of the old cronky buses then this is a different story. The drivers still drive at a fast speed but you are thrown around and it has been known for parts of the floor of the bus at the back to suddenly flap open. A nice breeze especially on a hot day but not a good experience for bad travellers who suffer from an icky tummy. There are curtains on both the old and new buses so you can cover the windows from the sun. Both types of buses sometimes play Portuguese music which is okay - quite jolly unless it is Fado - then you will need the tissues.

Two main bus stations cover this route - Lagos and Portimao. The station at Portimao isn't really like a station. It is just a line of bus stops but there is a small ticket office further down the road next to a restaurant and souvenir shop. Lagos has a station and it hasn't changed at all since the very first day I set foot inside - that's a long time ago - over 20 odd years. Even when we went back last time my Mum commented on the state of the bus station. She said, 'They have built this spanking new marina - you think they could tart the bus station up a bit.' Not sure who she means by 'they.' The Camara (Lagos Council) I guess. Still, I like it the way it is with street dogs sleeping in the middle of the bays as they hide from the midday sun. The ticket staff here are friendly and will help you if you are stuck and If you go on a Saturday morning there is always a noisy but good atmosphere as the farmers market is in a covered area just across from the station.

If you don't get on the bus at the station remember to really stick your hand out at the stops along the way as the driver will ignore you if he doesn't see your waving hands.

Only single tickets can be bought on this route. people over the age of 65 should show their passport to the driver and be able to buy a reduced ticket.

There is another bus station in Lagoa which is half way between Lagos and Faro. This is what I call a real bus station with covered seating areas, toilets, and vending machines. This station covers the central end of the Algarve.

Now we will go on a posher bus - a quality Express coach. These are very stylish coaches with drivers who wear a uniform and dark shades. Again, they are quite officious and always seem in a hurry so when you catch the coach to Lisbon or Seville give yourself plenty of time. Air conditioning should work and there is an on board toilet as well as a TV which shows films. I have caught the bus on speck only once but I would advise passengers to purchase tickets a day before or even sooner as Lagos to Seville and Lisbon are very popular routes and the coach will get booked up quickly. The Seville route is very popular with backpackers and tourists in general. The route travels from Lagos through to Faro, then passes through Olhao to Vila Real de Santo Antonio, Ayamonte, Huelva until it reaches Seville. The Lisbon route travels to Albueifera taking in Portimao and then from Albufeira goes straight to Lisbon. This route is popular with Algarvians at holiday times like Easter and Xmas when they go to the capital to visit families. In the old days we had to travel to Lisbon on the train which was so slow - it took all night. I was so pleased they introduced a speedy bus service.

Another one of my favourite bus lines is the Linha Litoral which travels down the coast from Lagos to Albufeira calling at all the small towns like Alvor and Almancil. This is a slower bus but the ride is very pleasant with some great coastal views.

If you want to travel south west to the untamed beaches it can be done part of the way but unless you like long walks then I don't advise it. Buses go from Portimao to Vila do Bispo and then from here on to Aljezur. There are some fantastic beaches in the Aljezur area but from the town they are way off the beaten track and a long walk on a terrain that is hilly and rugged. I suppose you can always hitch a ride from Aljezur if you feel up to it. A trip on an old style Eva bus from Lagos to Aljezur is a must for all tourists though. It really is like being in the Wild West. The bus stops at every bar along the way to drop off post and deliveries. Sometimes you will see horses tied up outside bars while their owners are having their morning Medronho and chourico.
I love this sleepy part of the Algarve - it's a lot of fun.

So there you go - an insight into Eva transport - the bus network with the green and yellow buses. It's definitely not the best bus network in Europe but it isn't all bad.Close

The road leading southward from the Alentejo to Sagres is a very pretty one passing through old towns such as Odemira, Aljezur and Vila do Bispo. Times haven’t really changed in these towns. Old men squeezed into jumpers that look a size too small…Read More

The road leading southward from the Alentejo to Sagres is a very pretty one passing through old towns such as Odemira, Aljezur and Vila do Bispo. Times haven’t really changed in these towns. Old men squeezed into jumpers that look a size too small still sit in cafes around the main squares drinking Medronho and playing dominoes. Dogs lie in the middle of the road, sleeping in the midday sun. Sometimes they look like they have been shot and don’t even move when a bus turns a corner. When the road branches off to Sagres the landscape changes slightly – you are able to see more houses, apartments, cafes and the odd hotel. Thankfully, the town hasn’t been too over developed and you can still find a narrow lane leading to the beaches that have wonderful yellow sand, remain quiet and unspoilt.

On this western coast of the Algarve, the scenery is quite different with its wild, secluded surfing beaches which are backed by granite cliffs sometimes flecked with amber and red. A couple of the beaches are reached only by surfers who know the terrain well; long unmade tracks amidst the marshes or through the rocky heath and farmland, sometimes hilly.

It was here, in Sagres, that Henry the Navigator established his school of seamanship. All that remains is is a small chapel and a gigantic rosa dos venhos or ‘compass card’ carved out of the stone. To reach this historical sight you will have to travel a little way out of the town in a northerly direction but it is definitely worth a stroll as the wind blowing through your hair and around your ears is a wild experience and the views are stunning.

Warm currents give Sagres mild winters, but the constant winds make for chillier summers than in most of this region. The small fishing harbour is colourful with many hand painted boats in colours of red, blue and yellow. It is still a working harbour and each day you will see fishermen bring home their catch which is usually sold to the local restaurants.

In 1755 when the Great Earthquake hit Portugal a lot of the buildings in the main square in Sagres were destroyed. Consequently there aren’ t many points of historical interest. The main square is the heart of the town with a good selection of cafes, restaurants and a good supermarket. If you want to try out a top fish restaurant then I suggest Mar a Vista. This pretty restaurant is set back and above Praia da Mareta, east of Sagres. The views are fantastic and the décor is kitsch with fishing nets, lobster pots and other fishing paraphernalia. As you might guess the main food on offer is fish and seafood, in traditional dishes or simply cooked. Try the perceves and don’t miss out on the local wine.

On my trips back to the Algarve I generally visit Sagres at least twice during my stay. The town I can take or leave but I do love the sandy beaches especially Praia do Martinhal which is just east of the town. The sand here is soft, golden, very peaceful and there are lots of sand dunes which you can tumble down when playing with the kids or hide behind if you want to sunbathe in peace without an audience.

Sagres isn’t the prettiest town in the western Algarve but because of its location near to Land’s End, Cabo de Sao Vicente (Cape St Vincent), and the historical connection with Henry the Navigator it is definitely worth seeing.

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I have a strong bond with Ferragudo in the western Algarve and it all began 27 years ago when my family docked their boat in the harbour in Portimao. Sitting upon the wooden deck we could look over to Ferragudo and watch the fishermen bring…Read More

I have a strong bond with Ferragudo in the western Algarve and it all began 27 years ago when my family docked their boat in the harbour in Portimao. Sitting upon the wooden deck we could look over to Ferragudo and watch the fishermen bring their morning catch to the quay. Then, it was a traditional fishing village and had hardly been touched by development. At least once a week we would cross over to the pretty town to collect our post. In those days there were no private post boxes within the main post office in Portimao and we had to have the post delivered to our solicitor's office which was based near the quay. There was something magical about walking along this stretch of concrete, breathing in the sharp fresh air and catching the smell of salt and fish as the boats came in one by one with their daily catch. Later on throughout the morning barbecues and wood stoves would be lit to cook the fish and the smell of olive oil, rock salt and pine and eucalyptus was and still is so evocative and one I have never forgotten.

My friendship with Ferragudo was rekindled again when we actually moved over to Portugal to live. Every month a boot sale was held in the main square and stretched around the corner on to the quay. This is where I would set up my stall selling second hand books, hand made jewellery and sometimes I would throw in an odd canvas that I had rejected. Surely someone would admire my art work and buy it - well, that's what I thought on those chilly mornings in Ferragudo just before the sun said Hello to the River Arade and its estuary. This is also the spot where I suddenly left my best Lisboan Portuguese behind and learnt how to speak the language in a rough Algarvian manner by chopping off the ends of words. To this day I still speak Portuguese with an Algarvian accent.

Even last year when I visited I was surprised to see that the mass of sykscrapers in Portimao had quadrupled, spreading left, right and centre, dominating the horizon yet Ferragudo hadn't changed that much since the first day I saw it from the deck of the boat. These days it is very popular with Portuguese locals, tourists from Germany, Holland and UK. It has a quaint charm that is very difficult to find along the shores of the Western Algarve nowadays. Once upon a time the whole shoreline was decorated with these sweet little villages filled with blue and white houses. The houses are still there and so are the brightly painted fishing boats, nets and lobster pots but now there is an extra cloud of concrete enveloping the Atlantic waters.

Visitors love Ferragudo because it is still traditional with its backdrop of white houses that look as though they are about to fall down the hillside into the cobbled square of Praça Rainha Dona Leonor. This is one of the prettiest squares in the Algarve and always animated with waiters from various cafes dashing around as they balance glasses, coffee cups, dishes of entradas on both arms. I have always wanted to do this as a party trick, tried many times but failed miserably. The restaurants in the square are all good whether you want to stop for a coffee and pastel de nata or order a bifana with salad and chips or choose to eat freshly grilled sardines with slices of bread from Monchique. When you have spent time in the shade of the square I suggest you take a short walk around the back streets - here there are some fine restaurants too. A little more expensive but worth it as all the fish is fresh and cooked perfectly like only the Portuguese know how. One to try is O Barril - a pretty restaurant with wooden seating outside on the street. The fishy aroma coming from inside the restaurant travels the length and breadth of the street and entices you to stop in your tracks. While you are walking through the back streets look out for a shop called Tabu Interiors. Inside there is a wealth of fabrics, cushions, ornamentation, duvet covers; everything in Portuguese/African style. Being interested in interior design this shop always fascinates me and I usually come away loaded up.

All along the western shores of the Algarve are many fortifications that were constructed to protect this magical place throughout the centuries. Within the area of Ferragudo, two ancient watchtowers to look out for are the ones at Atalaia and Quinta da Torre. Built in medieval style they were situated so warnings could be given against invading pirates and I don't mean Captain Jack, French corsairs and any enemy who dared set foot in the surrounding waters.

I'm not really a sun worshipper and don't often sunbathe on the beach but I do love beaches. A beach is somewhere I like to walk early morning, sit and plan my life or just stare out at sea to watch the waves toss and turn as they hit the shoreline or crumbling rocks. There are two beaches close to Ferragudo and within the walls of Portimao's harbour. Both have soft golden sand and it is deep. I love to sit with my feet buried underneath the warm sand and then lift each foot slowly out to feel the grains slip in between my toes. Of the two beaches Praia da Angrinha is my favourite although Praia Grande has more facilities in the way of cafes, easy access and good parking facilities. This area is popular with windsurfers and in the summer it is fun to sit and watch the coloured sails tumble in and out of the water. Although the ocean is the angry Atlantic this particular stretch of water is sheltered due to the harbour wall giving protection against the waves.

A romantic looking fort is positioned in between these two beaches. The Fort of São João de Arade was built in the 15th century as a watchtower and later in the 18th and 19th century was expanded to form extra fortifications which were built to protect the mouth of the River Arade. The fort paints a romantic scene perched high on its clifftop surveying its river, and looking over to Portimao. It's a shame it isn't open to the public as I would love to see inside it but it is privately owned.

If you visit by car then it is a good idea to explore the surrounding area as there are other beaches and some interestingly designed villas high on the hill surrounded by walls of shrubs and many palm trees. Even by foot if you have the time you can walk along the coast to Praia dos Caneiros which is a fair walk but easy to follow as the coastal trail has been marked with red arrows.

On the steep road behind the main square there are many armazens, old fashioned stores that are very dark. You will find everything in these shops from a toothpick to a car jack. There is an excellent pharmacy (farmacia) on this road where you can purchase most forms of medication that are sold over the counter in UK chemists. At one time You could buy antibiotics without a prescription but those days have gone since joining the EU.

High up on this road you will also find a very attractive white church with yellow ochre surrounds and Manueline windows. This is Ferragudo Church; built in fine Algarvian style. Stand to the side of the church and you will catch a fantastic glimpse of the River Arade. This is not the only good view in Ferrragudo. From the lighthouse the panoramic view is amazing on a clear day taking in Portimao's skyline, the round green hills of Monchique and the sweeping ocean in the background.

So that's my take on Ferragudo - somewhere I have known for a very long time, somewhere I still like to visit; a special place that hasn't been too battered and bruised by over development, somewhere where you can see fish being brought in on the quay and cooked over a charcoal fire while the sun rises high in the sky behind Portimao. A slice of old Portugal - let's hope it stays that way.

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Lagos is a town on the Algarve coast in Portugal, a big tourist centre renowned for its beaches in rocky coves, historical heritage and fishing, boating and dolphin watching. It is not a terrible, high-rise developed resort like many on the coast near Faro, and…Read More

Lagos is a town on the Algarve coast in Portugal, a big tourist centre renowned for its beaches in rocky coves, historical heritage and fishing, boating and dolphin watching. It is not a terrible, high-rise developed resort like many on the coast near Faro, and it doesn't have streets lined with British pubs and fish and chip shops. It has a permanent population of about 20,000 people but much more if you include visitors as numerous holiday makers arrive to take advantage of the sun and sea in the summer and overall mild weather (you can still get 20C and more even in March or April).

Lagos is an old place, with a seagoing past and many connections to the times of Portugal's greatness as one of the earliest European naval powers (this also includes its part in the massive slave trade – in fact Lagos was a big centre of the slave trade and had a slave market of its own).

The city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1755, but it was quickly reconstructed and it is still an attractive place, with many old(ish) buildings and pretty and atmospheric narrow lanes as well as the main attractions of picturesque beaches and beautiful, rocky cliffs.
We spent ten days in Lagos and its environs in April 2008 and it was a pleasant – and very good value – break. We flew to Faro and hired a car there which we drove (along a good, modern motorway) to Lagos and our hotel.

We stayed in Dona Ana Gardens apartments, and because we were staying in low season, we got a one-bedroom suite for two adults and two children for 42 Euros a day (their normal price is close to 120 Euros) which was fantastic value and something hard to beat anywhere else for what we got there – spacious living room with a sofa for one child, a well-equipped kitchen, nice bedroom and a decent bathroom. The hotel had a small but pleasant outdoor pool and a small grocery shop on the premises, so we were really quite happy there.

We were also happy because we were located within a five minutes' walking distance from the prettiest beach in Lagos (if not in Portugal), Dona Ana beach. If you remember seeing photos of an Algarve beach surrounded by golden rock formation, it's likely it was that beach! We also explored other beaches as well as went on a boat trip around the rocky coastal outcrops, grottos, arches and cliffs on a small boat we took from the Lagos harbour. This was also pretty good value, and a very enjoyable excursion.

From Lagos you can visit several attractive destinations in the area, including Lagos Zoo (very worth a trip if you have a car), Sagres Fortress (amazing, atmospheric place at the end of Europe) and Cape St Vincent (the most south-westerly point of Europe).

All in all, Lagos is an attractive little place with a lot to offer and comes recommended as a low-season destination in Portugal. Close

Lisbon is the capital city of Portugal and is nestled near the mouth of the Tagus River. We only had a few hours here so we tried to get a feel for the place as much as we could.Approaching the city on a cruise…Read More

Lisbon is the capital city of Portugal and is nestled near the mouth of the Tagus River. We only had a few hours here so we tried to get a feel for the place as much as we could.

Approaching the city on a cruise ship meant going underneath the impressive 25th of April Bridge which is very reminiscent of the Golden Gate Bridge (built using the same principles I believe). This is both a road and rail bridge and the noise as you pass under it is unbelievable. The bridge was built under the regime of Antonio Slazar in 1966 but was renamed after he was overthrown in 1974. After this experience the city comes into view and you are greeted by a magnificent vista with an expanse of terracotta roofs.
Cruise ships are docked at the industrial container port which is several miles from the city centre so we took a bus in to the centre and around the sights.

We started by following the road along the side of the river, back towards the bridge. The first stop was the stunning war memorial with its peaceful water and thousands of inscribed names. There is a small shop for refreshments close-by as well as the cleanest public toilets I have ever seen in Europe for a small charge of 50c.

Nearby is the famous Belem Tower, this is a 16th century fort that is positioned right on the water’s edge. It is very ornate with turrets and carvings all over, I presumed, judging by the enormous number of people queuing across the stone bridge that you were able to view inside but unfortunately we did not have the time to investigate. The next thing to catch our eye was the Monument to the Discoveries. This modern sculpture was built in the 1960s and features Prince Henry and others and is a monument to remember the many voyages of discovery that started from Lisbon, particularly to India and around Africa. The statue is huge and I can only describe it as looking like the front of a boat and is actually best appreciated from the water which we realised as we sailed out of Lisbon that evening.

A large part of the city of Lisbon was destroyed in an earthquake in 1755. Luckily some of the oldest parts of the town were the least affected and the Moorish quarter is particularly attractive with narrow streets and evidence of some of the beautiful tiling on the external walls which we saw all around the city. Our guide told us that throughout Lisbon there are now new regulations that prohibit the destruction of any of the facades of old buildings although the insides can be pulled down so there were several examples of front walls being held up by posts whilst a new building was being reconstructed at the back.

Very close to the Belem on the opposite side of the road is the Jeronimos Monastery, this was a huge building and beautifully decorated, it was started in 1502 and guided tours are available and it is somewhere I would love to return to. Belem palace is in the same area and this is now the residence of the President, another striking looking building.

We then toured through the wealthy area of the city, past a number of embassies and some gorgeous villa-style houses, the roofs were green or terracotta with many made of highly polished tiles which looked amazing in the sunshine. The city seemed to have lots of flowers and trees and left a lasting impression of luxury. We drove around to the top of the city where we reached a stunning vista across Edward VII Park towards the city.

Entering the main part of the city we saw the bullring which was an unusual red brick building with decorative towers, our guide was busy telling us the difference between Spanish and Portuguese bull-fighting but I can’t say either appealed to me as a spectator sport. We finally got to the centre of the city and I was immediately enamoured with the beautiful squares with fountains and decorative paving, quiet tree lined avenues and the amazing trams that disappear up the steep side-streets. The place is truly beautiful and my only regret is that I was only able to visit for a few hours, I am returning in the summer and I am already looking forward to it as there were still so many places that I want to explore.

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From hotels built in regal palaces to love stories that span the ages – Portugal is home to numerous places perfect for igniting (or reigniting) the flames of love. Visitors to the idyllic royal forest of Bussaco, to the beautiful palaces, country estates and manor…Read More

From hotels built in regal palaces to love stories that span the ages – Portugal is home to numerous places perfect for igniting (or reigniting) the flames of love.

Visitors to the idyllic royal forest of Bussaco, to the beautiful palaces, country estates and manor houses, such as the Quinta da Romaneira, by the banks of the river Douro, can all expect a warm welcome.

The light and colors of Portugal also inspire romance. There is the shimmering half-light of the sea, the light that filters through the trees in Sintra, and a variety of shades that have inspired poets, painters and lovers.


Sintra: A royal escape

One such site is in the cool hills of Sintra, a short trip from Lisbon where the royal court of Portugal went to relax for centuries. The town is framed on a large square flanked by a medieval palace, a ruined castle, fountains, cafés, and antiques shops. Rising overhead is a green mountain, crowned by a 10th century castle and the whimsical 19th century royal Pena Palace. The beauty and romance of Sintra led UNESCO to classify it as a World heritage site. It was even necessary to create a special category for the purpose - that of "cultural landscape" - taking into account its natural riches as well as the historic buildings in the town and mountains. Endowed with luxuriant vegetation, the mountains are part of the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park.

Much appreciated by kings and nobles as a country resort, and praised by writers and poets like (inevitably) Lord Byron who called it "glorious Eden", Sintra has a wealth of cottages and manor houses, some of which now provide accommodation in the form of country-house tourism.

The palaces, too, are outstanding, such as the Pena Palace, built in the Romantic period on one of the mountain peaks, and the 18th century Palace of Seteais, now converted into an elegant hotel, and the Palace of Monserrate, famous for its beautiful gardens with their exotic species that are unique in the country.

Sintra's confectionery deserves a special mention, particularly the travesseiros (puff pastes stuffed with a sweet egg mixture) and the famous cheesecakes, which according to ancient documents were already being made in the 12th century, and were part of the rent payments.

Near Sintra are the beaches (das Maças, Praia Grande, Praia da Adraga), Cabo da Roca (the westernmost point of mainland Europe), Colares (after which a demarcated wine-growing region is named), and the picturesque village of Azenhas do Mar, inset in a cliff. While there is no shortage of romantic B&B’s, palaces, and noble houses to stay in, the real gem of the area is the 18th century Seteais Palace, about five minutes outside of town, with gorgeous gardens and intimate luxury.

Tivoli Palácio de Seteais

The Tivoli Palácio de Seteais is not just a hotel, it’s a way of life... quiet, beautiful and distinguished, by the lovely little town of Sintra, a heaven on earth, with its evergreen vegetation, its ancient castles and palaces, so often described and praised by famous poets throughout the centuries. The Tivoli Palácio de Seteais is a superb example of late 18th-century architecture, built by the then Consul Guildmester and later transformed into a luxury hotel. It combines the dignity and traditions of the 19th century with all of today’s modern comforts, the perfect place for couples but also unique for its banqueting facilities and special events. The rooms are tastefully decorated with period furniture, while the bar, main salon and other rooms feature many fine paintings. The hotel’s Panorâmico Restaurant serves fine international and Portuguese cuisine. The service is attentive and the cuisine superb, while guests may walk in the gardens, enjoy a drive in a coach opting for a romantic holiday or all the excitement to be found in the nearby beach resorts of Estoril and Cascais. The hotel also offers unique honeymoon and golf packages.

http://www.tivolipalacioseteais.com


Buçaco: A magical forest

In the Buçaco forest perched on a mountain above the Spa town of Luso, an ancient Carmelite monastery was converted to a royal palace a century ago, - then converted again into a luxury hotel - The Buçaco Palace Hotel - just years later. The Serra do Buçaco mountain range is a magical botanical reserve, containing more than 700 native and exotic species of plants. It is protected by a 17th century papal decree that threatens to ex-communicate anyone who damages it. Of note among the many species are the Caucasus spruce, the rare Buçaco cedar and the Californian redwood

In the 16th century, the Vicar-General of the Barefoot Carmelites decided that this location would be the ideal place to build a monastery where the monks could dedicate themselves to a contemplative life in contact with nature. Thus, a modest convent was built as well as a number of penitential hermitages and chapels scattered throughout the forest, which, together with the numerous lakes and crosses, lend this place a magical quality. From the Cruz Alta vista point, you’ll see the seductive beauty of the mountain range, in which certain places, such as Vale dos Fetos and Fonte Fria, stand out.

The peace of the forest was disturbed in 1810 when the Portuguese and British turned back the French in the Battle of Buçaco.

Part of the convent was incorporated into a palace in the 19th century and the only parts of the original building that remain are the cloisters, the chapel and some cells. The palace is built in the fairy tale like Neo-Manueline style, and has been converted into the 5-star Bussaco Palace Hotel.


Bussaco Palace Hotel

The unique and world famous neo-manueline palace, erected by the Portuguese Kings at the end of the 19th century, is one of Europe’s finest masterpieces. Under the main theme of the Portuguese Discoveries, it is richly decorated with tile depictions of Portugal’s historic past, excesses of vaulted arches, marble staircases, rare tapestries, fine master paintings and objects d’art by the most notable Portuguese artists, that astonish every guest. Located north of Coimbra and between Lisbon and Porto, it is surrounded by formal gardens in the heart of the magnificent National Forest of Buçaco, 105 hectares of walled parkland planted centuries ago by the Carmelites. Under the management of the Alexandre de Almeida family, since 1917, it became one of Portugal’s greatest houses and one of the most fascinating and historical hotels of the world, with a continuing tradition of the ultimate in luxury.

http://www.almeidahotels.com

Douro: River of gold

The Porto e Norte Region cuts across the northern tier of Portugal and is characterized by the Douro River valley and Porto, Portugal’s second largest city (still called Porto by the British), which sits at the mouth of the river. Porto is known worldwide for its exportation of Port wine, which comes from the vineyards lining the river valley. The vineyards and estates in this wine region are among the most popular destinations for Portugal’s visitors. The area has been designated a World Heritage Site.

There is no river in the world with the combination of beauty, history, wine, and things to do that equals the great ?Douro river.

In Pinhão, the fine tiles decorating the station lead to romantic steam engine rides along the historic river’s narrow gauge rail system. On the south bank, head into a landscape defined by rocky bluffs and the force of nature. With the most imposing views out over the river, the S. Salvador do Mundo viewpoint is a place for festivity and romance. During the annual festival, girls seeking husbands tie knots in the woadwaxen lining local paths to ensure their beloved find their way into their arms.

As winter draws to a close, the banks of the river are enveloped in the white mists of flowering almond trees. The sun’s warmth begins to mature not only the fruits but also lovers’ hearts. And by autumn, with the vines replete in their golden and ruby fruits, the labor and happiness of harvest time bring forth that romance.

Sleep on enveloped in the seductiveness of nature under fabulous views out over the Douro provided by the Quinta de Romaneira outside Peso da Regua, while not neglecting to visit one of the estates producing the rich nectars of this region.

Quinta da Romaneira

The only way to describe this new high-concept 5-star hotel in Portugal’s Douro is ‘extraordinary’. Set across two luxury villas hidden away in 400 hectares of sprawling private vineyards on the banks of the Douro River, a stay at super-stylish Quinta dos Sonhos – Romaneira's Portuguese name – is carefully stage-managed to ensure you experience the high life in the imaginative interior and the spectacular setting. Handpicked character antiques, quirky objets d’art have all been hand-sourced around the globe by its inspired owner, Thierry Teyssier resulting in the ultimate Douro dreamland.
www.quintadaromaneira.pt/
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About midway between Boston and mainland Portugal sits the Azores, a collection of nine islands scattered over several hundreds of nautical miles. The closest point to Europe from the United States, the Azores is an autonomous region of Portugal, and just four hours by plane…Read More

About midway between Boston and mainland Portugal sits the Azores, a collection of nine islands scattered over several hundreds of nautical miles. The closest point to Europe from the United States, the Azores is an autonomous region of Portugal, and just four hours by plane from Boston.

The Azores are some of the most beautiful islands in the world. Not surprisingly, they have earned accolades for their exceptional travel and tourism experiences:

• The National Geographic Center for Sustainable Destinations named the Azores as the world’s second-most appealing islands destination
• One of 10 Best Values, USA Today
• Top 10 Places for Whale Watching, Sherman’s Travel
• Top 10 Islands You Never Heard Of, Budget Travel
• Two World Heritage Sites, designated by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO)

Visitors find plenty to see and do here, with a wide range of lodging and restaurants well-integrated across the wild and green landscapes that make up the islands. The Azores are also the perfect spot for the adventurer. Water sports, yachting, fishing and whale watching are widely available. Equally popular are horseback riding, cycling and hiking.

The Azores sit at the very spot where the tectonic plates for Europe, Africa and North America meet. The nine islands of the archipelago are divided into three groups:
• Eastern: São Miguel and Santa Maria
• Central: Terceira, Graciosa, São Jorge, Pico and Faial
• Western: Corvo and Flores.

The Azores’ year-round mild climate gives the islands a fresh, springlike quality. No matter what the weather is back home, it’s always between 57 and 71 degrees F in the Azores.

The islands were created by volcanic activity millions of years ago, giving them a landscape that is varied and often dramatic. Rocky cliffs, crater lakes, geysers, waterfalls and lava caves are all remnants of Mother Nature’s touch, and all make for excellent exploring opportunities.

The lava-rich soils, fed by volcano eruptions of the past, nurture more than 1,200 species of plants, flowers and trees. The landscape varies from open fields lined with country roads to tiny towns perched on oceanfront cliffs.

The Azores are home to Portugal’s tallest mountain peak, the only tea plantations in Europe, dozens of crater lakes, miles of rocky coastlines, and some 6,000 pineapple plantations.

In the harbor towns, you can watch the day’s catch hauled in from the fishing boats, count the yachts that have sailed into port for the evening and stay in the manor homes and inns that may have once been the luxurious residences of wealthy sea-faring traders. The cities tell stories about the Azores’ colorful history during the time of Portugal’s great explorations. Churches and town halls are built in varied styles including Gothic, Baroque, Manueline and classical architecture, evoking an old-world charm with new world functionality.

Learn about the 19th century history of whaling in the Azores, when expeditions from the Americas would stop to recruit crew members and teach the locals the art of scrimshaw and whalebone carving. While whaling is no longer an industry, whale-watching opportunities are abundant. The adventurous can see these marine giants up close and personal with the help of trained guides piloting fast, inflatable boats.

The Azores offer a number of innovative lodging options, including former palaces, manor homes and monasteries rich with the history of the region.

Getting to The Azores
Direct flights to the Azores from Boston are available only through Azores Express/ SATA. For information and reservations, call Azores Express at 800-762-9995, or visit: www.sata.pt. TAP Portugal offers flights from Newark via Lisbon 800 221 73 70. www.flytap.com








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The train left the shed at Rossio, Lisbon's suburbs passed in high-rise blocks painted orange and yellow and grey, washing lines from fifth-floor windows, the loping slate-grey arches of the Aqueduct of Free Waters, graffitied platforms, building sites and vandalised stations with metal bins covered…Read More

The train left the shed at Rossio, Lisbon's suburbs passed in high-rise blocks painted orange and yellow and grey, washing lines from fifth-floor windows, the loping slate-grey arches of the Aqueduct of Free Waters, graffitied platforms, building sites and vandalised stations with metal bins covered in marker pen scrawl. Only the tourists were left by the time we got to Sintra. There was a whitewashed station building with orange-red roof tiles, done out in colonial style but marred by a Pizza Hut where the ticket office should have been. There were a few cheapish restaurants, a map that everyone gathered around. The centre lay on the other side of a valley, white-spired and gleaming in the sun.

Starting from the Palácio Nacional de Sintra, it was a long, not quite as steep as you would have imagined climb up to the Castle of the Moors, about forty-five minutes in all, first along cobbled streets, passing a lemon-coloured church and a house where Hans-Christian Andersen stayed in 1866, then stone steps between moss-covered boulders and, finally, a soul-crushing assortment of stones raised at irregular height from the ground. I was aiming for Sintra's highest point, the peak of Cruz Alta, but the semi-friendly guard at the Pena Palace assured me that the only way to reach it was through the park, which like the castle used to be free. In Sintra nearly everyone is semi-friendly: even the maps cut off right at the most useful section.

It was one of those places that seemed to exist solely to suck euros out of tourists' pockets: souvenir shops, coach parties, cafes with pratos da dia in every major language laminated to the door and the tourist office handed out a sheet of paper listing admission fees along with their photocopied map. The only things that didn't cost five euros were the places that charged more. Close