More often than not, travel hubs are of special interest and joy for travelers, nowhere you can feel more a traveler than there. Moreover, they often are meeting places where cultures mix happily; maybe you’ll eat chuño – an Altiplano dehydrated potato – with chopsticks.…Read More

More often than not, travel hubs are of special interest and joy for travelers, nowhere you can feel more a traveler than there. Moreover, they often are meeting places where cultures mix happily; maybe you’ll eat chuño – an Altiplano dehydrated potato – with chopsticks. Being a travel hub is the soul and essence of Puno, and as such, travel in the area is worth of a dedicated entry.

Alas, South America is not Asia. Simple things here get expensive, complicated and of low quality. Thus, arriving at the area with a clear idea how to travel is essential for surviving and enjoying a trip within the Lost (Stolen?) Inca Empire.

Nothing looks simpler than a train. Among the modern travel technologies this is the oldest one. A sturdy railway and a choo-choo iron rooster make the trick. Yet, in South America the few surviving railways are as expensive as the already overpriced local flights; the recently mentioned railway to Machu Picchu is a good example of that. In the case of Puno, the railway connecting it with Cusco runs on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday and costs a spectacular 220 American dollars. The mountainous sights cannot compete with that price.

Probably the best way of traveling around in the area is by bus. Puno is well connected in this aspect, providing transport to Cusco, Arequipa, Lima, Desaguadero and La Paz. If attempting to reach the last by bus, the best is to travel first to Desaguadero, crossing the immigration by foot, and then taking a fast minivan to La Paz. Otherwise, expect delays and luggage theft during the bus inspection. In any case, while at the border change money; at the destination cities the exchange rate is often worse. If not in a rush, once in Bolivia the best is stopping at Tiwanaku; the site is indirectly related to the Inca Empire and thus enriches the visit to the ruins of that kingdom. The other main option for crossing to the Bolivian side is through the Titicaca Lake is ferries connecting Puno with Copacabana; unless free of financial worries, this option is best avoided. If doing so, Copacabana is well worth of a visit and well connected with La Paz; it can be used also as a departure point to Sorata.

I often preach for local transport; yet, considering the special qualities of the area the best option for a bus to Cusco is a tourists’ bus. There are several companies offering those, the trips cost $25 and can be paid also in soles. As always, paying in local currency is advised. Most buses leave at 8 AM and arrive at 5 PM, allowing seeing all the attractions along the way during daylight. An additional advantage of the tourist buses is that they include a healthy buffet lunch. The main attractions along the way are from the colonial period, like the Andahuaylillas Church, from the Inca period, like the Wari ruins and pre-Inca remains, like Pukara. However, nothing compares to the awesome natural views along the way. They resemble very much the Bolivian high valleys – like Cochabamba and Sorata - deep narrow valleys with dramatic hills surrounding them. Here, however, they run all the way down to the Pacific Ocean, the barren, brownish high plateau turning into greenish high valleys which eventually end up in a different desert. However, much before the coastal desert Cusco appears. Next to it is the Lost City of Machu Picchu.
Close

Three large towns lie along the Titicaca Lake shores. Copacabana is on its eastern side, Desaguadero - split between Bolivia and Peru – on its southern end and Puno on its western side. Puno is the largest, but not by much. As Copacabana, Puno is…Read More

Three large towns lie along the Titicaca Lake shores. Copacabana is on its eastern side, Desaguadero - split between Bolivia and Peru – on its southern end and Puno on its western side. Puno is the largest, but not by much. As Copacabana, Puno is trapped between the lake’s shoreline and the adjacent hills. As in Copacabana, the Titicaca blues dominate the views; there is something in the color of deep altitude-lakes that makes them unforgettable.

Despite marketing efforts, Puno is a rather recent town (founded in 1668) which is not related to the Inca or the Tiwanaku. Yet, the town is called the "Folkloric Capital of Peru;" the term refers mainly to traditions from colonial times, which seem to be still very alive and well here. As such, it is arranged around a typical Spanish central square and a beautiful cathedral. In essence, the town looks and feels like a replica of Copacabana without the famous Calvario of the last.

Other points of interest for passing travelers are the terminal and the dock by the lake. Kuntur Wasi is the name of a viewpoint atop a large set of steps; from the Condor Viewpoint – which conveniently displays a large condor sculpture – there are great views of the town and the lake. Puma Wasi is a similar viewpoint, both are better reached by taxi due to security issues in Puno.

To the traveler arriving from Asia the views are deceitful: a calm city by a deep blue lake, surrounded by desert hills. Denizens walking in a rather lethargic pace; sometimes awkwardly frozen in the middle of ambiguous activities. You sit in a coffee shop and look at the walking people; it doesn’t take long to discern certain peculiarities. While walking, the people look indecisive; more often than not you’ll fail to guess the direction of their next step. At times they unapologetically bump into each other; most of the time they seem to be just blocking each other. You may think the area has passed through a rapid urbanization process and thus the people you’ve seen just moved to the city recently and do not know those silent rules of urban movement we all master without having studied them formally. Then you talk with one of the denizens – maybe the receptionist at the hotel or a travel agent – and you get a warning. Then you notice the people at the street corners systematically taking pictures with their phones. You don’t believe the stories or the views, until shortly after you see somebody being attacked, or you become the victim. Despite its looks, the area is very violent. The chances of being attacked are real; the hopes of getting help are unreal.

Yet, Puno is more than a dangerous and unavoidable travel hub. Probably it is the best place for buying souvenirs in Peru. It is less expensive than Cusco and Lima, and it offers the same merchandise as the floating islands. Moreover, with the help of a taxi it is possible to visit the Chullpas de Sillustani, a set of impressive adobe burial towers built by the Kollas; similar to the ones seen along the Bolivian Altiplano. Tourist agencies are promoting now visits to llama farms, though these animals can be seen wandering freely as well. A point to keep in mind is keeping a safe distance from them; if they feel threatened they spit whatever they are chewing on the aggressor’s eyes. Walking on the hills surrounding the city may be tempting, but it is dangerous, violent robbery in them is common.

The food in Puno is typical of the Altiplano area, with the huge variety of tubers – dehydrated or fresh – I have described in my Bolivian journals, charque (jerky) of llama and other animals, chuy (guinea pigs) stews, goat heads and a plethora of other equally appetizing dishes. In the Mercado Central (central market) they are offered by around 3 soles each, while at Calle Lima - where most shops catering for travelers are – they are offered for around 20 soles. Wi-fi is still an oddity here, as in Copacabana. Most travelers would stay here for short periods of time in the way between Bolivia and the Inca related attractions on the Peruvian side, yet, with some care to the surroundings, such a stay can be a safe and enjoyable one.
Close

Perceptive readers may attack me on the claims made in the first entry of this journal, Puno – A Spanish Pun; after all, if Puno and Copacabana are so similar, while spend time in both of them? "One culture, one lake, one visit," would summarize…Read More

Perceptive readers may attack me on the claims made in the first entry of this journal, Puno – A Spanish Pun; after all, if Puno and Copacabana are so similar, while spend time in both of them? "One culture, one lake, one visit," would summarize their point of view.

These two views depend on the type of trip the traveler is making in the area. If aiming at meeting the altitude cultures of the Andes – Inca, Quechua, Tiwanaku, Aymara, Pucara and more – then beginning a trip at Lima and skipping Bolivia is the last thing one should do. Yet, not surprisingly, most tourists do just that, after all is what the printed Peru guides tell them to do.

If wishing to meet the altitude empires, there are two key locations for the international traveler: Cusco and La Paz. Both are very high; unluckily, most travelers completely obliterate altitude acclimatization considerations. Despite Machu Picchu the attraction not being at an extreme altitude, a significant percentage of people would experience mild altitude sickness symptoms there. Invariably, all human bodies would experience an acclimatization process to the decreased air pressure; I’ve described that extensively in the past. That means bad news for travelers rushing through the area from sea-level Lima, especially if unaware of his – or hers – reaction to altitude; everybody is different with respect to that. Well, that is unless you descent into Cusco.

Despite Cusco being higher than the vast majority of human settlements, La Paz is even higher. Acclimatizing in La Paz before reaching lower Cusco makes more sense since most of the activities and attractions in La Paz require less effort (unless engaging in trekking or climbing). Moreover, large cities – as La Paz is in comparison to any other settlement in the area - provide a more comfortable environment for resting and acclimatizing during a few days. Moreover, there is another reason for choosing this path. It closely follows the source and heart of the Inca Empire, which was deeply related to the Andean High Plateau and not to the arid coasts of the Pacific Ocean. Making a round trip between La Paz and Cusco allows visiting also the Lake Titicaca and Tiwanaku, both related to the birth of this altitude empire.

If adopting this strategy – centering the high altitude trip between La Paz and Cusco – then visiting the Titicaca Lake and Puno is unavoidable (flying over the spectacular landscape of the area in a single hour would be an unforgivable sin). Lake Titicaca is vast, offering the traveler two main routes between La Paz and Puno. Most travelers chose the shortest past through Copacabana. It allows exploring of the "Isla del Sol" (Island of the Sun), a pivotal point in Inca mythology, as well as visits to one of the most important cathedrals in Bolivia and its adjacent "Calvario." Yet, I have described in the past also the crossing via Desaguadero, the town at the southern tip of the lake, which is split between Peru and Bolivia. Each one of these trajectories offers special views and thus is worth experiencing both of them. Buses and taxis to Puno are available from the Peruvian side of both borders. Both paths are relatively easy and straightforward. The only point of concern is security, and that holds for both sides of the border. Eventually, Peru and Bolivia are pretty similar societies, what holds for one is usually true for the other.

As said in the first entry of this journal, the Andean High Plateau is the most densely populated area among the world’s high altitude zones and home to various historic cultures, which rate among the largest in this continent. Relatively difficult to reach and demanding an altitude acclimatization period means the traveler should try to get the max out of the trip. If accepting this, landing on the Titicaca Lake for a while and visiting the whole area is the only sensible option.
Close

On Spanish Puns Spanish and English share a lot. Both are Indo-European languages, thus they have a similar structure, especially with regard to a cumbersome verbs structure. The vocabulary’s similitude is enhanced due to the widespread use of Latin and Greek roots by both languages.…Read More

On Spanish Puns Spanish and English share a lot. Both are Indo-European languages, thus they have a similar structure, especially with regard to a cumbersome verbs structure. The vocabulary’s similitude is enhanced due to the widespread use of Latin and Greek roots by both languages. Yet, tempting as it is, one should be careful while translating between these two languages. "Exito" is not Spanish for "exit," and "Puno" is not Spanish for "pun."

On Borders Puno and Copacabana are good examples to the arbitrary nature and irrelevance of political borders. If ignoring the banknotes and signs invoking the names of state-gods, it is impossible to distinguish between the cultures of these two towns on the Titicaca Lake shores. One lake, one culture, two countries.

Between Aymara and Quechua Both towns provide good examples of Aymara and Quechua cultures, though Spanish still predominates and is the main language in both. These cultures are very similar, though it is worth noting that they differ in their origins. Aymara is a well defined culture originating on the Andean High Plateau. They were closely related to the Pucara people, to the builders of Tiwanaku and to the military clan that founded the Inca Empire shortly before the Spaniards arrived. As a matter of fact the entire Puno Region was part of the Tiwanaku territory between 800 AD and 1200 AD. The Quechua speaking people belong to several different cultures that were conquered by the Inca and assimilated; as such they are much more varied in their looks. Both languages are similar and share about 30% of their vocabulary.

Can a first time visitor distinguish between the cultures? Sometimes asking a direct question on cultural issues may be uncomfortable; luckily, there are ways to bypass this. I reviewed in the past on a popular Altiplano drink made of boiled dehydrated peaches. Aymara people call it "qhisa," while Quechua speaking people call it "mocochinchi." Just ask in Spanish how is this drink called (there is no Spanish name for it), the answer will tell you with whom are you speaking; at least of his – or hers – culture.

If getting to know the locals better, they may expand on these issues. Aymaras told me more than once that their facial features and language are harsher than the Quechua ones. Looking as an outsider, I tend to agree with them, though both languages use plenty of vowels, creating a rather melodic and soft sound, intercalated with some unusual guttural sounds (like the "qh" in "qhisa").

Local Pride I have travelled extensively on high altitude destinations – especially on the Himalayas and the Andes, with casual visits to the Alps and the Rockies. More often than not I found humble people happily living under the colossal magnitude of the nature surrounding them. Yet, in Seasons I expanded on Spanish being a language with an attitude; actually a rather pompous one. While visiting the Titicaca Lake area, it is impossible to ignore the many signs advertising it as the highest navigable lake in the world as well as a World’s Natural Wonder. The last means nothing; probably every single person in the world would define a "World’s Natural Wonder" differently. The first one is worrying. Even in Bolivia and Peru there are navigable lakes than are higher than the Titicaca. Moreover, how do you define a navigable lake? If I can cross a pond on a trunk, then, is it navigable? This is another good example of local pride and modern marketing techniques.

Unique Cultures Imagination is an important part of local cultures; I have been told of Tiwanaku being a million years old (it has only a few centuries) and of tunnels underneath the Titicaca Lake; Kari Kari curses and many more things not worth of being mentioned. Things may go wild on this angle and cast a shadow on the real peculiarities of the area. Among the high altitude areas of the world this is the most densely populated one meaning it has created a truly unique culture(s). As such, the Andean High Plateau and surrounding areas are a fascinating destination for the world wide traveler.

Puno is not a Spanish pun, but a rather fascinating destination.
Close

Just one kilometer from Sacsayhuaman is Q’enqo, a large limestone structure carved with many steps leading to nowhere, or to a place that doesn’t exist anymore. This is a motif typical of huacas, sacred stones appearing in Inca worship places. Between these two sites, horses…Read More

Just one kilometer from Sacsayhuaman is Q’enqo, a large limestone structure carved with many steps leading to nowhere, or to a place that doesn’t exist anymore. This is a motif typical of huacas, sacred stones appearing in Inca worship places. Between these two sites, horses can be rented for short rides; if arriving in an organized tour (which is the recommended option due to certain dangers here), ask before booking a place if time is scheduled for this activity.

The name of the site means zigzag in Quechua. At first this may seem more appropriate for Sacsayhuaman since this fort was built in a clear zigzag pattern. Here, finding the pattern demands an effort since it was carved within the stone. Apparently, chicha (a fermented corn drink) and llama blood flowed through these canals during ceremonies. The last things of interest in this rock are carvings of a condor and a puma on its highest point. Below the rock are caves with carved niches were mummies were stored. A point of special interest is that Altiplano mummies were desiccated by the very dry weather of the plateau, without the complex processes used in Egypt. Nearby is a small amphitheatre of stone niches with a vertical stone which originally may have been a statue. It doesn’t take long to finish this visit; Puca Pucara is the next Inca ruin in the tours around Cusco.

"Puca Pucara" means "Red Fort" in Quechua. The name is no less interesting than the site itself. Across the Titicaca Lake from here, Tiwanaku was probably contemporaneous to Angkor, apparently dating back to the late first millennia. Apparently – again this ambiguous definition – the denizens were Paucara (or Pucara) people, who spoke a language closely related to Aymara. Then a calamity occurred and they migrated across the Titicaca Lake, founding Cusco and the Inca Empire. Accordingly, Pucara (and Paucara) are recurring names in the whole area and were later on adopted as surnames by many.

The Red Fort is six kilometers away from Q’enqo. Despite its name, the site was probably a tambo. This is a Quechua word used to design storage facilities. Even nowadays, many markets in La Paz include storage areas called "tambos." Here, many partially surviving rooms of regular size and no sign of fortifications occupy a modest hill. The most interesting sight is the terraces on adjacent hills – some of them in advances stages of decay that were used for growing corn and tubers.

Nearby - practically across the road from Puca Pucara - is the last Inca attraction in the area, known as Tambomachay. Despite called "tambo" this is not a storage facility, but an elaborate bath; thus it is often referred to us the Inca Bath. A natural spring was channeled here through three waterfalls, a wall with niches surrounds the complex; this beautiful piece of engineering still works perfectly well.

Is a tour of four sites in half a day in the company of too many tourists worth the effort? After all, this is neither Machu Picchu nor Cusco. I had my doubts before the tour. Yet, these humble sights provide additional angles to few experiences of the Inca Empire still available to us today, and as such, they are recommended.
Close

Old is the FutureTalking with Andean denizens may be confusing. The very concept of time in Aymara and Quechua is strikingly different. Some time ago I was talking with a local friend about an event in her far past and she told me in Spanish:…Read More

Old is the Future

Talking with Andean denizens may be confusing. The very concept of time in Aymara and Quechua is strikingly different. Some time ago I was talking with a local friend about an event in her far past and she told me in Spanish: "It’s too ahead, I don’t remember." The sentence doesn’t make sense in Spanish, but it’s perfect in Aymara.

Simply, in the Andean cultures, the past is ahead of us, because we can see it, i.e. remember it. The future is backwards, because we don’t see it. The result of this worldview is that the future is never taken seriously. Don’t expect to meet people on time even if it was agreed several times (another local cultural point is that only things repeated three times are agreed upon; note the excited "Si! Si! Si!" in local conversations). Combine that with a lack of historical writings from before the Spaniards arrival and speaking with locals about their past may get complex. Especially with regard to certain adjectives. "It’s old," somebody told me shortly after I arrived at La Paz for the first time. Seeing my sudden interest on the detail, he added: "maybe 300 years."

"Oh, that’s nothing for you," he added after he saw my reaction.

New is Cusco

If Machu Picchu was the oligarchs’ winter retreat, Cusco was the imperial capital, second only to Aztecan Tenochtitlan in this side of the world. As everything here, there are no exact historical records, though the city is not very old.

Tiwanaku was probably contemporaneous to Angkor, apparently dating back to the late first millennia. A baby. Apparently – again this ambiguous definition – the denizens were Paucara (or Pucara) people, who spoke a language closely related to Aymara. Then a calamity occurred and they migrated across the Titicaca Lake, founding Cusco and the Inca Empire. Many Bolivians still like telling stories about secret passages underneath the Titicaca Lake. The crossing happened likely in the 12th century, with Manco Capac and Mama Oclla as leaders. "Manco" is a Spanish distortion of the term "Mallku," a type of leader in local cultures. Overall, there were only 13 Inca emperors, a short lived empire which began the destruction of local cultures; later, the Spaniards took over and almost finished this task.

Under the new colonial masters, the area and its main city began a slow but sure decline. Its luck changed in 1911, when the ruins of Machu Picchu were found after having been forgotten for a while. The term "discovery" is weird while used in the Americas. After all, the people living there obviously knew about the place. Even the Spaniards knew after it; records show the ownership of Machu Picchu reached local courts in the 16th century. So in 1911, the English speaking world found Machu Picchu and Cusco entered a revival period.

By then, Cusco was almost purely Spanish in style. Then, in 1950, an earthquake destroyed much of the downtown area and created the opportunity to restore Inca structures. As of today, Cusco still looks like a Spanish town, though it is clearly sprinkled with Inca ruins.

The Empire’s Nouns

Fit of the two belligerent empires which used it as an administrative center, the town’s focal point is named "Weapons Plaza." It contains two extraordinary structures which link it in spirit and shape with another important (and nearby) city of the colonial period: Potosi. The beautiful cathedral was built in baroque style, while nearby is the not less impressive Iglesia de la Compañia, the Jesuit epicenter in the area. The Jesuits held an important position in colonial South America until they were expelled in the late 18th century for defending the original denizens’ rights.

Left of the cathedral (Ataud and Tucuman corner) is the Museo Inka, which is more interesting than its parallel in Agua Calientes, near Machu Picchu. Its collections of metal artifacts, mummies, qeros (wooden cups) and other Inca artifacts are by far richer. Close and related is the Museo de Arte Precolombino (Plaza de las Nazarenas), which offers collections predating also the Inca empire. The museum is closely related to Museo Larco in Lima, which is responsible for the displayed objects.

I do not want to make a complete list of the local museums; there are plenty of them. For a traveler rushing through town, the ones mentioned in the previous paragraphs are more than enough, especially since they are the most closely related to the core reason for a trip to Cusco and Machu Picchu. For those who are not in a rush, there are obviously more attractions; including Inca related ones, like the impressive Sacsayhuaman ruins. On these important issues, in a future journal.
Close

While reviewing Tiwanaku I mentioned Angkor. The same is inevitable while visiting Cusco and Machu Picchu. Simply, all these complexes date more or less from the same period and belong to failed kingdoms. This should be taken with several pinches of salt, pepper and chili;…Read More

While reviewing Tiwanaku I mentioned Angkor. The same is inevitable while visiting Cusco and Machu Picchu. Simply, all these complexes date more or less from the same period and belong to failed kingdoms. This should be taken with several pinches of salt, pepper and chili; at its peak Angkor had over a million denizens and was one of the world’s largest cities and heir to a complex Hindu culture, while Cusco was just an oversized village with some impressive temples-on-cliffs at its edges.

For the travelers, there are also other – and far less expected – contact points between these spots. While referring to Angkor, I wrote:

Wining Strategies for Visiting the Complex

All the local guides have read the Lonely Planet books and would try to sell that company's idea of how to visit the temples. They offer the free sunset view plus a two days trip along the short and long circuits described on those guides. Moreover, the pricing strategy of the place follows the pattern as well, asking twenty dollars for the first day, the same amount for the second day and then giving a free third day.

There are better tactics for covering the main sights. The day before the planned visit, rent a…

This is correct also for Cusco and Machu Picchu. The packages offered here suffer from inherent drawbacks. They begin with a two-day visit to the city – Cusco – and follow it with a rapid tour of the Sacred Valley. Before having a chance to recover, the traveler is on the train to the Machu Picchu temples.

Now, if adopting the strategy proposed in the first entry of this journal – namely arriving from La Paz, which is higher than Cusco – the commercial tours make sense and the order of the visit is of little relevance. However, let’s face reality: my entries probably won’t change a reality in which most travelers arrive at Cusco from Lima, which is far below and near the Pacific Ocean. Under such circumstances, the popular packages are awfully wrong. They deny the fact most travelers wouldn’t have acclimatized to Cusco’s altitude (3400m) upon arrival. That’s why there are so many altitude complaints despite the relatively harmless altitude. Acclimatizing to such altitude causes some minor symptoms which would diminish the capability to enjoy the sights.

A much better strategy is to begin with the Sacred Valley; at 2900m it allows a gentle acclimatizing and an easier arrival to Cusco and Machu Picchu. Moreover, there is also an historic justification for the choice, since such a path would allow seeing the ruins of Ollantaytambo and Pisac before Machu Picchu. To maximize the value of the visit, the one-day Sacred Valley tours should be scheduled from Cusco for Tuesdays, Thursdays or Sundays, since these are the Pisac market days. Plan arriving the night before to Cusco; thus, after a night at the desired acclimatization altitude, the visitor would spend the day walking at a lower altitude. This is an excellent tactic employed widely among trekkers and climbers in the faraway Himalayas. Not surprisingly, it would work also in the Andes. After the market, the tours include a lunch at Urubamba and then a visit to Ollantaytambo, which contains Inca ruins second only to Machu Picchu. Moreover, the Inca village is well preserved, in sharp contrast to Cusco. The last was the Inca capital city and looks like an architectural battlefield between the Inca and the Spaniards. Both cultures fought for every space in this small town, creating a mishmash which makes difficult appreciating each of these styles.

One this is agreed upon, there is another important point. Travelers from Cusco to Machu Picchu can enjoy only a few hours at the complex during the middle of the day. However, Cusco is not the closest town to the ruins; Aguas Calientes proudly carries this title. If staying there overnight it is possible to watch the sunrise at the ruins and to stay there until sunset, de facto owning the ruins for much of the day. A four-hour train ride connects Cusco with Aguas Calientes, making this reshuffle of the popular path an easy and very worthy on. The stay at Cusco should be kept thus for the end of the tour, when a couple of days among the touristy shops would be easier to digest.
Close

A recurring theme while talking about Machu Picchu is altitude. Despite the attraction not being at an extreme altitude, 20% of people would experience mild altitude sickness symptoms here. Invariably, all human bodies would experience an acclimatization process to the decreased air pressure; I’ve described…Read More

A recurring theme while talking about Machu Picchu is altitude. Despite the attraction not being at an extreme altitude, 20% of people would experience mild altitude sickness symptoms here. Invariably, all human bodies would experience an acclimatization process to the decreased air pressure; I’ve described that extensively in the past. That means bad news for travelers rushing through the area, especially if unaware of his – or hers – reaction to altitude; everybody is different with respect to that. Well, that is unless you descent into Cusco.

Despite Cusco being higher than the vast majority of human settlements, La Paz is even higher. Acclimatizing in La Paz before reaching lower Cusco makes more sense since most of the activities and attractions in La Paz require less effort (unless engaging intreking or climbing) and the large city provides a more comfortable environment for resting a few days. Moreover, there is another reason for choosing this path. It closely follows the source and heart of the Inca Empire, which was deeply related to the Andean High Plateau and not to the arid coasts of the Pacific Ocean. Making a round trip between La Paz and Cusco allows visiting Lake Titicaca and Tiwanaku, both related to the birth of this altitude empire.

Did SeenThat just said "round trip?" What a bore!

In this case "round trip" doesn’t mean tracing back your steps. Lake Titicaca is vast, offering the traveler two main routes between La Paz and Puno – the main significant town in its Peruvian side. Most travelers chose the shortest past through Copacabana. It allows exploring of the "Isla del Sol" (Island of the Sun), a pivotal point in Inca mythology, as well as visits to one of the most important cathedrals in Bolivia and its adjacent "Calvario." Yet, I have described in the past also the crossing via Desaguadero, the town at the southern tip of the lake. Each one of these trajectories offers special views and thus is worth experiencing both of them. In this case "round trip" doesn’t mean "boring." Buses and taxis to Puno are available from the Peruvian side of both borders.

Interlude: Practicalities

Truth is that both paths are relatively easy and straightforward. The only point of concern is security, and that holds for both sides of the border. Eventually, Peru and Bolivia are pretty similar societies, what holds for one is usually true for the other. Thus, I must repeat my recent warning about ATMs. Two times in a six months period, I got no money from the machine, though the transaction was registered at the US bank. The result was extensive paperwork which could be performed only at the financial center of the country (La Paz). Apparently, this is the result of somebody intentionally cutting the communications during the transaction. The local authorities told me it happens roughly twenty times a day.

Save the troubles and instead of using ATMs, enter the bank and ask for an "Adelanto." A regular transaction would be performed, that means an additional fee but the security in this case is absolute: if the transaction is registered, then the money must be issued.

Another important issue is to avoid showing off very valuable goods. That includes cheap cameras, worthless cellular phones and – for the ladies – also shiny earrings. Check out local headlines: people get killed here for less.

The Other Side

Once in Puno, the last leg of the trip takes the traveler to Cusco. The two main transport options are regular and tourist buses. In this exceptional case, tourist buses are recommended, since they stop at several attractions along the way. There are several companies offering those, the trips cost $25 and can be paid also in soles. As always, paying in local currency is advised. Most buses leave at 8 AM and arrive at 5 PM, allowing seeing all the attractions during daylight. An additional advantage of the tourist buses is that they include a healthy buffet lunch.

The main attractions are from the colonial period, like the Andahuaylillas Church, from the Inca period, like the Wari ruins and pre-Inca remains, like Pukara. However, nothing compares to the awesome natural views along the way. They resemble very much the Bolivian high valleys – like Cochabamba and Sorata - deep narrow valleys with dramatic hills surrounding them. Here, however, they run all the way down to the Pacific Ocean, the brownish high plateau turning into greenish high valleys which eventually end up in a different desert. However, much before the coastal desert Cusco appears. Next to it is the Lost City of Machu Picchu.
Close

It is unfair to say Lima lust lacking, but there really isn't much to brag about it. Outside Miraflores and a few landmarks, it is just a large city clinging on to a cliff and constantly bombarded by dust cloud blown from a not…Read More

It is unfair to say Lima lust lacking, but there really isn't much to brag about it. Outside Miraflores and a few landmarks, it is just a large city clinging on to a cliff and constantly bombarded by dust cloud blown from a not too distance desert. To many tourists, Lima is only a quick stop before they head out to other interesting parts of Peru.

Well, lucky for tourists, you can find most what you need inside Miraflores district, so you don't and shouldn't have to wander off too far. The focal point of Miraflores is Parque Kennedy. From there, you can catch some open top bus tours that bring you to Centro Historico and other parts of the city. In my opinion, the highlight of the tours is the astonish Monasterio de San Francisco that has underground catacombs with estimated 70,000 burials. There is also an incrediable library inside the Monasterio housing antique texts, some dating as far back as the period of conquistadors.

Back to Parc Kennedy, there are numerous boutique shops and stores surround it. In the weekends, artists come to showcase and sell their works. In addition, there is an array of awesome bars and restaurants. To me, the inexpensive but delicious Peruvians food is the only thing that saves Lima from eternal boredom. At the end of the day, perhaps, you can follow McBalta Diagonal to the ocean front and walk along the cliff to catch some amazing view of sunset.

Enough said, here I come Cusco and Machu Picchue!Close

The next morning I was on my way to Machu Picchu! The scenary from the connection bus is not too bad, but view from the train (from Poroy to Machu Picchu) is spectacular. Unless you are traveling in the midst of summer, otherwise,…Read More

The next morning I was on my way to Machu Picchu! The scenary from the connection bus is not too bad, but view from the train (from Poroy to Machu Picchu) is spectacular. Unless you are traveling in the midst of summer, otherwise, you won't see much on the return train at night. Therefore, stay awake and enjoy the view/scenary on the morning train as that maybe your only chance to do so.

Train arrives at Machu Picchu station around noon time. Some people prefer to hit the trail right away and head for the site, but why? Although it is not exactly the size of Tokyo, there are plenty to do and see in that mighty little place. And I think it is totally silly to take the same day return train back to Cusco. Stay in the town of Machu Picchu for at least 2-3 days. It is rustic, romantic, and full of energy. Stroll around but exercise common sense and don't wander too far from town center especially at night.

Right off the train station, there is a "market" for tourists. It sounds corny, but it is pretty fun to browse and walk around in the market. The tourisy area of Machu Picchu actually spans across 2 opposite banks of a "river" (stream) that linked by few bridges. The town center has a compact-size square with lots of restaurants, shops, and shops. Not surprisingly, there are all kind of events at night just to wow visitors because it is, in fact, a tourist town. The night when I was there, they had a 2-3 hour long parade And then, another event the next day, amazing!

The next morning I headed for the site. You can hike up to it for about 1 hour or be lazy and take a bus. It is one of the new 7 wonders of the world, so I don't think I need to write much. Its shear beauty and magic you have to see it for yourself. Unlike the bus going up, the line for the return bus is quite long, so prepare yourself for 20-30 min wait time. Hey, bring your passport with you because there is a small office right after the site entrance. In there, you can get an official "Machu Picchu" stamp on your passport, very nice!

As touristic as it is, Machu Picchu actually seems frozen in time. If you have a few days to spare, stay there, forget, be forgotten, and watch the time stop.Close