The Lions Eat TonightOur day was almost over in the Serengeti when we came upon our grande finale! Near the road was a pride of female lions , 12 in all, enjoying their freshly killed zebra. It was a thrilling and somewhat chilling sight to…Read More

The Lions Eat Tonight

Our day was almost over in the Serengeti when we came upon our grande finale! Near the road was a pride of female lions , 12 in all, enjoying their freshly killed zebra. It was a thrilling and somewhat chilling sight to see them tearing into the still warm flesh , devouring the meat and grinding the bones. There would be nothing left when they were finished feasting. They didn’t pay us any mind as we hovered taking pictures only a mere 10 feet away.
There were two sets of 3 cubs of different ages in the group.They seemed to be chowing down in perfect harmony, until the food got in shorter supply. Soon there was lots of snarls and gnashing of teeth. The young cubs were kicked away at one point and ran to their Mom, as kids do, for comfort and protection.
As the meal ended we laughed to see them lying on their backs with very full bellies in the air. They didn’t have a care in the world, at least not in this evening.
As we neared our lodge we had a chance to take a better look at some Warthogs. These strange animals are members of the pig family . They are fast runners and are strange comical looking animals. They have two sets of sharp tusks however and can be aggressive. It has been reported that warthogs have given lions deep, serious, deadly wounds, which sometimes end with the lion bleeding to death.
This is our last evening on the Serengeti. As I watch the sun set,I try to take it into my minds eye. I see the vast plains that seem to stretch to the sky, and the golden short grass on this Sept day, with large patches of black burn, that will give to new green in the weeks to come. Here and there groups of animals break the pattern. Animals living each day as nature intended in balanced harmony. Killing to live. I know I won’t return, as my quest to see new places will keep me away but I will draw upon my memories of the Serengeti for many years to come.It fills me with a sense of hope and a belief in the world and the continuation of life as we know it.
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On the morning of February 20th, we left Ngorongoro Crater and, after a visit to Oldupai Gorge, headed towards the Serengeti Plains. Halfway to our destination, a half-mile thundering line of galloping wildebeests crossed the road in front of us.We had chosen to stay…Read More

On the morning of February 20th, we left Ngorongoro Crater and, after a visit to Oldupai Gorge, headed towards the Serengeti Plains. Halfway to our destination, a half-mile thundering line of galloping wildebeests crossed the road in front of us.

We had chosen to stay in the area near the southeastern border of Serengeti National Park in the hopes of experiencing the Great Migration of some two million wildebeests, zebras, and gazelles. In fact, if you go to the website of the lodge at which we stayed you'll see its February newsletter talks of safari vehicles "surrounded as far as the eye can see with wildebeests". Perhaps the herds took a few days' vacation at the time of our stay.

Yes, we saw many wildebeests and zebras, but no vast herds. What was unexpected instead was the large number of cheetahs and the variety of other animals and birds that we saw. It was probably a good tradeoff. Wildebeests are definitely not the most attractive looking animals, but cheetahs might be.

How many cheetahs we saw is unknown. Each one supposedly has its own unique pattern of spots, but we were not expert enough to know how many times we saw a particular cat over the course of three days. What we did see were individual cheetahs, two or three males hunting together, feasting cheetahs, and a cheetah stalking a herd of gazelles. And then there was the amazing experience of watching a mother cheetah guide her three cubs on a hunting trip. The survival of the species depends on the mothering skills of female cheetahs. They get no male parenting help and must provide for their cubs for 18 months, all the while protecting them from lions and hyenas.

I'm sure, being in only one area of the Serengeti, that it is impossible to appreciate what a vast area it is. The plains stretch to the distant horizon and beyond. It seems somewhat dry with rather sparse vegetation. Yet it supports a remarkable diversity of animals and bird-life. Over the course of our 10-day safari, we recorded over 100 species of birds and many of those were observed in the Serengeti.

It was indeed a privilege to see cheetahs and the other animals of the Serengeti in their natural habitat. It's a unique experience to feel like you are the intruder in a world that man does not and should not control. Our Serengeti experience confirmed the decision I arrived at over the course of our safari -- I never want to visit another zoo. I just want to remember the twinkle in an elephant's eye and the uncorrupted presence of the cheetah.

One thing is certain: The Serengeti changes you.Close

I have mixed feelings about the Maasai.On one hand they are emblematic of Africa with their red robes, spears and ochre smeared hair. A visit to their village/boma is fascinating cultural tourism and gives a visitor a thrill for being so daring. On the…Read More

I have mixed feelings about the Maasai.

On one hand they are emblematic of Africa with their red robes, spears and ochre smeared hair. A visit to their village/boma is fascinating cultural tourism and gives a visitor a thrill for being so daring. On the other hand they aren’t so much integrated into the regions tourism but got it in a headlock – grasping for money after a photo is taken and pushing flimsy made gew-gaws into your culture-shocked face.

After visiting Olduvai Gorge our guide suggested a visit to a Maasai Boma. To be frank, I wasn’t enthusiastic. My encounters with the Maasai in Kenya hadn’t endeared them to me. When we were entering the Talek gate at the Masai Mara National Park we were accosted by Maasai women. One of our passengers took a picture and the woman aggressively asked for money by banging on the window. Later on we were asked if we wanted to visit a "cultural village"? Our group were against it having experienced one on a previous tour where they found the experience unnerving and depressing.

So, I found myself in exactly the same position in Tanzania.

I had to ask myself why I was so intimidated by the Maasai? For some people they are the "real Africa". In a continent that has been westernised to an excessive degree they offer a glimpse of tribal Africa. An Africa where people live in conjunction with nature. They represent an age where we went confined to cities. The Maasai are pastoralists – they move themselves and the cattle around from one grazing spot to another. There is almost a nation of Maasai. There are regional Maasai capitals with Narok in Kenya and Mto wa Mbu in Tanzania. The Maasai range over a massive area even reaching the coast at Mombasa.

Then I remembered I had met a Maasai before.

At Riverside camp at the Masai Mara we had a Maasai guard called John. He was a delight. In appearance he was rather scary – six foot tall, fierce looking, perforated earlobes, and clutched a frightening spear. He would sit and talk with us in the evening over a camp fire. He would tell us about his two wives, his cattle and the fact that his children were just starting school. He was absolutely fascinated by tourists and the outside world. And I had never felt so safe at night with him sitting there guarding us in the firelight.

If I thought the area around Olduvai Gorge was bleak it was nothing compared with where the Maasai lived. It was just a landscape of white dust broken only by acacia trees. There were a few other tourists there, climbing out of vans with looks of trepidaton on their faces. The Maasai were around us very quickly. Not demanding but very polite and explaining that being shown around the boma will cost 25000 shillings (£40/$65). As my travel companion wanted to do this we paid and were shown into the boma by a young Maasai warrior.

The boma is a mud village surrounded by a thorn fence to keep lions away from cattle. Inside is a number of huts made from cow dung. To greet visitors the Maasai performed a dance in the middle of the cattle kraal to greet visitors. Jumping up and down and singng they encouraged visitors to join in. Then we were taken into one of the mud huts. Cramped and dark we sat awkwardly in about 3ft of space while the Maasai told us about his life. The most precious thing in the world for the Maasai is his cow. It provides food for him but not just with milk – he can drink its blood as well. Stoppering the wound so he could drink it later. The Maasai diet, he proudly told us – contains no vegetables.

Afterwards we got the soft sell and were allowed to travel around the village. There was a school hut at the back of the village with the cutest looking children imaginable. They were singing a song and tourists were clapping their hands in appreciation. The thought hit me that the kids were cute, almost deliberately so. I suppose the children were just a part of the tourist scene as the adults.

While we were approached by Maasai women selling necklaces and spears (we spotted a tag on a spear saying ‘Made in China’) I found to my reluctance that I was being won over by the Maasai.

I remarked to our guide that the boma was actually quite charming.

"Ah" he says "Tanzanian Maasai nicer then Kenyan Maasai? Yes?"

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One of the advantages of touring the Serengeti with a guide is the running commentary about the animals.As well as pointing out where that animal is any guide worth his salt with tell you about the animal in question in detail. And a good guide…Read More

One of the advantages of touring the Serengeti with a guide is the running commentary about the animals.

As well as pointing out where that animal is any guide worth his salt with tell you about the animal in question in detail. And a good guide can really bring the animal to life. Such was the case with Impala . These stunning little antelopes were everywhere on the Serengeti. The big herds of zebra, Thomson’s gazelle and wildebeest had headed north in the dry season but these gorgeous antelope stayed behind due to the abundant grazing in the middle of the vast park.

Impala truly are one of the best looking animals – especially the bucks. They are so elegant with the males having burnished coats and a magnificent set of antlers. One afternoon we had a herd of forty dance across the road. The stragglers in the herd literally sprang in front of our vehicle to reach the other side. The herds are generally female ruled over by a dominant male. This is his "harem" and he generally only keeps it for approximately sixteen days due to rushing about fighting off other interested males. At the end of the sixteen days he is generally too tired to defend himself from any usurper and dies of stress and exhaustion.

Male Impala live in bachelor herds, living their lives with other males until an opportunity presents itself to take over another "harem". They are not the only ones who do this in Africa – zebra, buffalo, elephant, Grants gazelles, rhinos and even lions live this way as well. There seemed to be abundant Cape buffalo in the Serengeti. Our guide was very wary of these and would tell us to "Sssshhh" as we approached. They were very skittish and the bachelor herds had a reputation for aggression. The last thing a safari guide wants is to go back to his boss with his vehicle staved in by an angry buffalo.

Then there were the Giraffes which were quite a sight as they hoved into view above the acacia trees. There were more than I thought there would be. They seemed to be in family groups often protecting their young. The young themselves were at least 12ft tall and were dwarfed by their 25ft tall fathers. A giraffe knows that you are no threat to him and will stand and observe you in your vehicle. His head soaring above yours, peering to get a good look at you. On our way to the Serengeti we saw two male giraffes fight, they did it by bashing their necks together. It was like two construction cranes taking blows at each other.

Finally, there were the hippopotami. I saw a pond of these in each of the game parks I visited. But the one in the Serengeti, the Seronera hippo pool, was quite a sight. First of all we visited in the pouring rain and to get there you had to leave the vehicle and descend a slippery track down to a wide rock encrusted pool. The pool was being tapped by incessant afternoon rain but the inhabitants didn’t seem to mind. By inhabitants I mean hippopotami – about fifty of them.

The pink/grey hippos were submerged under the water with just their ears and nostrils showing. They were crammed together letting out grunts and occasionally as you watched fights would break out – they’d try and intimidate each other with those enormous teeth. A movement caught my eye on the far bank and I got a glimpse of a Nile crocodile slide into the water.

Brrrrr....

Is it the rain that is making me shiver or sharing my space with a crocodile?
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The Serengeti was about big cats.If Ngorongoro was about elephants, Lake Manyara about birdlife, the Masai Mara about wildebeest – then the Serengeti plains has to be about lions.But they are not the only big cats found out on the plains. When the herds are…Read More

The Serengeti was about big cats.

If Ngorongoro was about elephants, Lake Manyara about birdlife, the Masai Mara about wildebeest – then the Serengeti plains has to be about lions.

But they are not the only big cats found out on the plains. When the herds are up in the Mara then all predators head for the wooded watered Seronera area where the game is all year around. Many big cats have carved out territories in this area and prides of thirty lions have been reported. But on our first morning in the Serengeti we encountered two of the other big cats that frequent the plains.

While my travelling companion did an early morning balloon flight over the Serengeti I got an extra game drive. My guide was eager to get going because a fellow guide had told him about a special predator at the start of the grasslands. We sped off and after about half an hour entered a part of Seronera that has waist high with tall grass. While scanning this tall grass with binoculars my eyeline met with the sight of two Cheetahs. The pair looked slender and elegant through a pair of binoculars. Unfortunately I could not get any photos as they were too far away and the Serengeti Parks service does not allow off-road driving.

But for a few minutes I sat and watched these gorgeous animals. They looked like two males - probably brothers. Life is quite hard in the Cheetah world because the sexes dont mix except to mate. The male cheetahs literally bully the females cheetahs until she comes into oestrus and she will bring the cubs up on her own. The males form bonds with their brothers and stay with them for life. They are also picked on by other predators. Their build is so slender they are no match for lions or hyenas who steal their kills. Our pair of cheetahs were out in the open but moving away into the open grassland. That is where they find their prey such as Thomsons gazelle, wildebeest and Impala. Anything bigger such as buffalo or zebra is impossible due to their slight build.

About mid-day we moved into an area blackened from recent fire. The ground was mainly sand, and the trees that had survived were withered and dead. Our guide said we were in the middle of big cat territory here and their population is so dense that when the fire occured last year a lion fleeing the blaze was attacked by another pride when fleeing to safety. But we had been tipped off about a big cat and when we got there we wern’t alone as it was was surrounded by six safari vehicles. We scanned the arid scrub and gnarled trees with binoculars. There, 50ft away, in the branches of a decrepit tree was a mass of feline limbs with one paw draped over the branch....a leopard.

The most feared predator in Africa was finally in view (although too far away for photos). I could just about see the lolling head, but with binoculars I could see the famous spots on the yellow coat – and the chest move up and down denoting sleep. The cat did not move during the heat of the day and was sleeping off a night of hunting. There is a reason these are so feared . For a start it is far more powerful then a cheetah – able to bring down a zebra. Its an ambush predator relying on stalking its prey and bringing it down at a rush. For its size and weight it is the most efficient killer in Africa and kills by biting the skull or the neck. But because it is so powerful it can drag prey up trees to hide it from prowling lions or hyenas.

They are the holy grail of game viewing and not everyone gets to see one. The leopard was the last of the ‘Big Five’ I wanted to see and we stayed in the vicinity for forty minutes in case it stirred into life while tucking into our packed lunches. I think our guide was hoping it would jump from the tree and stride over to where it was in full view. But, no, to a leopard who had been up all night – sleep was more important.
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To lie down with Lions – encounters with the King of the BeastsI’ll describe a scene in the Seronera woodlands one afternoon.Three lions are lazing – one male and two females. The male is resting on his haunches - eyes alert and watching everything…Read More

To lie down with Lions – encounters with the King of the Beasts

I’ll describe a scene in the Seronera woodlands one afternoon.

Three lions are lazing – one male and two females. The male is resting on his haunches - eyes alert and watching everything that is going on around him. His mane is magnificent and dark in colour; and everything about him is oversized – his paws, his mane, even his tail swishing around.

In the background a troop of baboons were squabbling and making noise. In the foreground was a scene out of "Bambi" where two Impala bucks gambolled and chased each other within sight of the lions. The cats must have eaten recently or the bucks knew they were safe until nightfall. Certainly the bushy maned male was watching them but made no effort to go after them.

I lost count of the number of lions we saw on the Serengeti. There seemed to be one under every bush. At this time of year, in the dry season, all the predators come in from the plains to the wooded Seronera area. Here there are year around game to hunt but it also means a large density of big cats in a small area. Which is great if you are a tourist but less fun if you are one of the big cats. Clashes between lions and cheetahs, hyenas, and leopards are pretty de rigeur.

But during the day when the lions are recovering from a night of hunting they are the favourite prey of the tourists. When a pride is spotted they gather around with their safari vans with their cameras pointed at the lolling animals. My favourite was a pride we found late one afternoon as the light was fading of four lionesses and six cubs. They were almost invisible as their tawny hides were exactly the same colour as the grey grass. You could see how they would be invisible to prey animals who only see in black and white. They also had cubs who could be seen with their cute heads above the grass. The cubs would play fight and occasionally throw themselves at the lionesses. The lionesses themselves had perked up and were watching a giraffe across the track with intent.

Lions are the only true social cats. Tigers, jaguars and leopards are solitairy while cheetahs only stick together if they are brothers. A typical lion pride is made of females who do all the hunting. The male, with his mane, is pretty conspicuous out on the grasslands. What does the male do? After all he elbows his way through to a new kill to take the best spoils. He guards against the main danger to the pride – rogue males trying to take over. This usually leads to a fight to the death when younger stronger males try to oust the current male. The males patrol their territory letting out roars. It is those roars I heard in the evening just as I was tucking into dinner and sending shivers down my spine.

During the day we followed two lionesses. One was wearing a radio collar and was being tracked. We encountered them on the road and they led us to a small pond where they proceeded to harass the ducks. They then spend the rest of the time lying down, tongues hanging out conserving energy for that night. A larger maned lion joined them at a trot, sniffed one of the females then proceeded to bat her around the head. When she had reacted with a snarl he shot off as if he had lost interest. For such a large animal he moved at quite a pace.

Lions are numero uno for anyone on safari.The thrill of being in such proximity with such big cats is so memorable. But stay inside that vehicle – even more important when they start roaring at night stay inside your tent. That way you are still alive in the morning.
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Introduction to the Serengeti Plains – the realm of tooth and clawNeither style of campsite is fenced, so wildlife comes and goes. As a result the Serengeti's campsites are notorious for nocturnal visits by lions. The lions are generally just cautious, so the rule is…Read More

Introduction to the Serengeti Plains – the realm of tooth and claw

Neither style of campsite is fenced, so wildlife comes and goes. As a result the Serengeti's campsites are notorious for nocturnal visits by lions. The lions are generally just cautious, so the rule is to stay calm and whatever you do do not leave your tent.

Rough Guide to Tanzania 2007

Imagine reading that while settling down for the night in your flimsy tent on the Serengeti.

The Serengeti Plains are one of the most extraordinary places I have ever visited. There is a sense of adventure here as if you have moved away from human civilisaton and have entered the realm of tooth and claw. You are no longer the top predator – you are actually at the bottom of the food chain. The sheer scale of animals here is extraordinary. - the sheer size of the National Park is more extraordinary. It covers fourteen thousand square miles. The ecosystem it contains spreads out from the park into Ngorongoro and up into Kenya with the Masai Mara. Animals in their millions move during the migration.

Only about a third of the park is made up of the flat grassy plains that it is so famous for. During January and February – wildebeest, zebra and antelope in their million (and for 2008 it was estimated at exactly two million) make their way down from Kenya. The plains between Naabi Gate in the southeast and Seronera in the middle of the park are rich in grazing at that time of year. Its at exactly at this time of year they foal – millions of ungulates giving birth at the same time. The theory behind this is that predators that will be so glutted with easy food the majority of foals will be left alone. The cycle begins again in May when the grasslands are grazed to the bone and the herds begin their trek slowly northwards again.

When I travelled throgh the plains it was the dry season and the herds were up in Kenya. But there was still plenty to see. For a start there is a sense of space to these plains that is breathtaking. Flat as a pancake and dry as a bone. The grass there had been bitten down to its roots and looked brittle and delicate. Dust devils swirled as we drove past and once in a while we passed Kopjes - islands of rock in the endless plains that are often the abodes of prides of lions. For the plains arent empty even in the dry season – we saw Grants gazelles and a Serval shot across the road. Lone hyenas can be seen in the distance fanning out from their clan burrows. One big surprise was seeing a Wild Cat prowling the side of the road. It looked just like a domestic tabby – although a hundred times wilder.

A word must be said for the roads into the Serengeti – they are truly appalling. It took us four hours to cross from Naabi Gate to our campsite. They are riddled with potholes and lose scree and only a four-wheel drive will do. They fit the description "axel-breaking" because we did see vehicles laid up on the side of the road after attempting this trail. So it is best to see the Serengeti on an organised tour. We did meet a couple doing a ‘Cape to Cairo’ roadtrip and they were unimpressed by the Serengeti due to the state of the roads, high price of admission and lack of game. Thats why you need a guide to take you into Seronera where the game hides out when it is the dry season. The entrance fee is exorbitant ($50 per person plus 10,000 schillings per vehicle and that is not counting accomodation). So it is best to join an organised tour in Arusha where such practicalities are taken care of for you.

I think the Serengeti is well worth all the inconvenience. Its one of those places on the globe where you have to pinch yourself you are there. The wildlife you see there is amazing and proves that Africa is addictive. Whether you are watching snorting hippos, prancing Impala or the famous lions – you will want to go back. I can guarantee...

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Elephants Today we saw the largest herd of elephants yet There were at least 50 in the herd maybe more. They were so majestic walking in single file in the great Serengeti plains, highlighted against the horizon. The huge female elephant was in the lead…Read More

Elephants
Today we saw the largest herd of elephants yet There were at least 50 in the herd maybe more. They were so majestic walking in single file in the great Serengeti plains, highlighted against the horizon. The huge female elephant was in the lead with the tiny babies tucked into the group protectively. Elephants are the largest animals now living. The elephant's gstation period is 22 months, the longest of any land animal. At birth it is common for an elephant calf to weigh 120 kilograms (260 lb). They typically live for 50 to 70 years .Sadly,like most animals in the world their numbers are declining. Once numbering in the millions, the African elephant population has dwindled to between 470,000 and 690,000 individuals according to a March 2007 estimate .
We noticed one young elephant was missing half of his trunk . He seemed to be surviving but life wil be harder for him. It was interesting to observe how they related to each other . Very much a group. We see one young elephant was being chased out of the herd by a large female . He looked so forlorn and he made numerous attempts to join in ..but was unsuccessful. The social lives of male and female elephants are very different. The females spend their entire lives in tightly knit family groups made up of mothers, daughters, sisters, and aunts. These groups are led by the eldest female. Adult males, on the other hand, live mostly solitary lives.We think maybe this was a son who was being told it was time to leave. Tough love!!
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Today we have a full day game driving . We had out early. Morning and evening are the best times to see the animals. The the black faced monkies are the first animals we see this morning. They were hanging out near an old camp…Read More

Today we have a full day game driving . We had out early. Morning and evening are the best times to see the animals.
The the black faced monkies are the first animals we see this morning. They were hanging out near an old camp site. They are so entertaining , I could watch them forever. They live in troops . In this group we see the whole diverse clan . The females tend to be the primary caretaker of the young, although several females will share the duties for all of their offspring.
The Leopard
We didn’t expect to see the elusive leopard but there he was hanging out on a branch of a tree. We took several photos before our guide discovered he had a ,what was left of a Thompson’s Gazelle drapped on a lower branch, leftover food for later. What a good photo opportunity!
The Lion- King of the Jungle
We spotted this pride of lions very near the road under a tree. When we realized they were mating ,I almost dropped my camera in the flury of excitement. Pretty entertaining , even though I felt a bit like a voyauer.He seemed oblivious to our presense and the whole process was over in seconds. Thinking I missed it , I was delighted to learn he repeats the act many times . ( they actually get together 20 or 40 times a day when mating begins).Maybe that’s why he earned the name King of the Jungle. We laughed at their contented faces as they rested between all the activity.
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We near the river just before sunset and here we see several elephants out enjoying a drink . To the left of us we see about 5 or 6 and then over the crest of a hill we see a herd of 20 or…Read More

We near the river just before sunset and here we see several elephants out enjoying a drink
. To the left of us we see about 5 or 6 and then over the crest of a hill we see a herd of 20 or
more in the distance. We can’t believe how close they come to us and at one point we’re
actually surrounded. No need or camera zoom here. It was a heart stopping experience but
for some reason I didn’t feel panic , which is amazing considering I’ve battled a life long
phobia of horses!
The river is a happening place , and we see lots of hippos semi-submerged in the fresh
water. The hippopotamus is semi-aquatic inhabiting rivers and lakes where territorial bulls
preside over a stretch of river and groups of 5 to 30 females and young. During the day they
remain cool by staying in the water or mud; reproduction and childbirth both occur in water.
They emerge at dusk to graze on grass. I was surprised to learn they are quite ferociuos and
when they come out of the water they have been known to attack. They looked so harmless.
They are truly huge and can weigh in at over 3 tons!
Before the day is done we see some Grant’s Gazelle. They look similar to the Thomson’s
Gazelle but are considerably larger. The last animal sighting we can add to our list today is
the ultra fast impala. Evening comes early in the Serengeti and by 6 PM the sun is setting as
we end our long but wonderful day.
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