Visions of snowy mountain peaks, monasteries, crowded streets & temples enter ones mind when Kathmandu is mentioned. The name Kathmandu comes from a Sanskrit compound of words meaning Kashtha (wood) and Mandap (house). This is what I went in search of and found. The…Read More

Visions of snowy mountain peaks, monasteries, crowded streets & temples enter ones mind when Kathmandu is mentioned. The name Kathmandu comes from a Sanskrit compound of words meaning Kashtha (wood) and Mandap (house). This is what I went in search of and found. The capital of Nepal stands at 4600 feet and the city has 2 1/2 million people. The city is focused on tourism and has a history that dates back over 2000 years. Hinduism and Buddhism are mostly worshiped here. Kathmandu is a link to those wanting to climb the tallest peaks on earth, to explore the culture and to visit the 7 Heritage sites within the Kathmandu Valley.

I had signed up for a tour of Nepal but wanted extra time on my own to visit this historic city. Places like Boudnath, Swayambhunath (the Monkey Temple), Thamel, Durbar Square and Bhaktapur were some of the sites within reach of Kathmandu. My first experience after arriving at the hotel and setting out on foot was disturbing with the pollution, traffic, honking horns and crowded streets. The atmosphere is quite stifling but there is also character and life to the area. Everyone is friendly while they try to get you to buy whatever it is their selling. "Come and look, it is free to look" is their chant.

From the stupa at Boudnath with it's prayer flags waving, to the busy streets of Kathmandu and the amazing architecture of Bhaktapur, the sites, the smells and the mountains in the distance beckon you to walk and immerse yourself into the amazing culture and history of Nepal.
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Bhaktapur is also known as "City of the Devotees." Bhaktapur is located in the Kathmandu Valley and has three major squares full of towering temples which has some of the finest examples of religious architecture in all of Nepal. The narrow cobblestone streets wind…Read More

Bhaktapur is also known as "City of the Devotees." Bhaktapur is located in the Kathmandu Valley and has three major squares full of towering temples which has some of the finest examples of religious architecture in all of Nepal. The narrow cobblestone streets wind their way between courtyards filled with statues, cisterns and wells, connecting the huge squares. The city almost has an ancient midevil feel to it.

The buildings and temples are intricately engraved in the stone and in the wood. Potters are mixing clay to make pots by hand and many artists have their things for sale. Outside in a pile of ash with a roof over it a dog has found a warm place to sleep where the potters harden their clay into pots. There are many festivals celebrated in Bhaktapur throughout the year. One is them is Tihar which is celebrated in Nov. for 5 days. Crows are celebrated the 1st day, dogs the 2nd, bulls the 3rd, cows the 4th and brothers and sisters the on the last day. On the day of the dog, they are given garlands of flowers to wear and fed as much food as they want.

The main square is adjacent to many buildings made of brick and ornate carved wood. One of the most famous is the Pujari Math, which was a home to a Hindu priest. It has an ornate Peacock Window that is viewable from the narrow street.

Bhaktapur is on the old trade route between India and Tibet. Many of the buildings and temples were constructed in the early 1400s under King Yaksha Malla. The streets were paved and many buildings restored in the 1970s by the Bhaktapur Development Project funded by Germany.

There are no rickshaws, tuk-tuks, or taxis allowed inside the city so it is much quieter and the air less polluted than that of the temples and squares in Kathmandu. Close

Trekking poles can be useful in stiff descents on rough terrain, especially if carrying around a heavy backpack. The problem is their size and shape; few travelers would seriously consider bringing them from abroad, even if they fold tightly. Accordingly, this was one of the…Read More

Trekking poles can be useful in stiff descents on rough terrain, especially if carrying around a heavy backpack. The problem is their size and shape; few travelers would seriously consider bringing them from abroad, even if they fold tightly. Accordingly, this was one of the items I shopped around for while in Kathmandu. The first question to answer was: One or two? Trekkers vary on their opinions on this; I definitely support one. Two are for those planning to ski; it makes the issue of carrying them around even more acute.

If agreeing on one, a popular solution is carrying around an umbrella. This is the favorite of Buddhist monks living in the area. It not only looks ridiculous—that explains their embarrassed looks—but it is also cumbersome when it rains and the ground becomes slippery. Then, one needs to choose between protection from the rain or support on the ground. I could not agree to such a compromise. The shops offered a wide variety of models and qualities. The best were made from light alloys and had comfy handles made of composite materials. They cost well over $100 per unit. They were designed as concentric units that could collapse into a tight stick. They were so awesome that they forced me to face reality. I was to trek in unspoiled nature; a space-era pole fir for trekking on the moon seemed a bit overboard.

Still pondering on the issue, I found in one of the shops a large wooden barrel filled with long tree branches, which had been meticulously cleaned. The vendor saw me studying them and took one of them out of the barrel. He took it out of the shop to the sidewalk and placed the sturdy contraption firmly on the ground.

"Thung," the stick exclaimed confidently. It was roughly my height and about a head taller than the vendor. It was thicker than my wrist.

Stretching his hands up, the vendor picked the stick’s top end and jumped on the air, supporting his entire weight—it couldn’t be much—on this low-tech trekking pole.

"Strong," he said, showing me his all his remaining teeth.

People were staring at us. I was smiling. Seeing his effect, the vendor repeated the antique several times. It was a tempting option. I was sure the stick could survive everything I would. Yet, it was big and heavy. Seeing my hesitation, the vendor said:

"100 Rupees, special price for you my friend!" At that time, the price equaled $1.25. I needed to decide fast. Could I take the stick into the bust to Jiri, the trek departure point? I didn’t know.

"No, sorry," I said and kept walking. Yet, the show had brought new customers to the shop. The vendor smiled at me in clear joy.

Next day I left for Jiri without a walking tick. My choice had been a good one; I couldn’t have boarded the bus even if I had picked a pencil for the task, so crowded it was.

On the fourth day of the trek (counting from Kathmandu), I left Bandar in the morning, and was supposed to reach Kenja in the afternoon. The morning was foggy and wet; the sun was hidden behind a thick cover of clouds. The ground was almost slippery; a whiff of grass separated my shoes from the wet earth. I could walk without problems, but realized a stick will be soon necessary. The weather could change sharply in the late autumn, and storms were expected. Still meditating on this, while enjoying the pastoral views, I began slowly exiting the small village. The distance between the houses was steadily increasing. I could make a walking stick. I had a pocket knife and branches abounded. Could I match MacGyver? Suddenly, one of the doors opened. An agitated girl came out running towards me as if I could disappear any moment.

"Want stick? Want stick?" she screamed in my direction, waving a few sticks while still running.

Probably I was the first trekker passing through this path this week. Most trekkers arrived here already with a walking stick, thus I was almost a miracle.

I took a look at them. They were perfect for walking and had been carefully cleaned. I would just need to wrap some tape on one end to create a handle. Even a minor MacGyver could deal with that.

"15 Rupees, 15 Rupees!" she said after she was sure I liked the item.

I paid and she ran back, screaming the news in joy to her family.

Picking it carefully, I placed it firmly on the ground and performed a first great step for humanity.


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Choosing clothes for a long trek is a complicated affair. One must take suitable clothes for the season and the terrain, and enough of them to be comfortable. Yet, if bringing too much clothes, one would need a porter or two, diminishing the joy of…Read More

Choosing clothes for a long trek is a complicated affair. One must take suitable clothes for the season and the terrain, and enough of them to be comfortable. Yet, if bringing too much clothes, one would need a porter or two, diminishing the joy of walking in complete freedom. Thus, any comment on the issue must start by defining the path parameters. This entry is good for walks along the Everest long trek path (Jiri to Kalla Pattar) during the autumn. I arrived to the area when it was hot and humid and left it during the first snow storm feeling comfortable with my dressing choices.

Seeing the shiny merchandise displayed in Thamel, Kathmandu, it is easy to be tempted into buying special breathing fabrics that will transform one into a fashionable astronaut, while promising complete insulation from what one came to see. These space-era outfits are not necessary. The best approach is to plan for protective clothes that are not restrictive. One must take into account that replacements along the way would probably be necessary; in such a case, sturdy, simple clothes would be easier to find. Thus, why don’t start with them from the beginning?

Luckily, several characteristics of the area converge into common sense choices. Nepal is a rather conservative culture, hence, plan for long trousers and sensible shirts. Then, they must also protect from a sometimes hostile nature; this means mainly from leeches and water. I commented on trekking boots in another entry of this rather long journal, thus I’ll skip them here and begin right away with the socks. Take as many pairs as possible of sturdy socks with as little synthetic fabrics in them as possible. Wool socks are perfect and readily available. This is critical; dry socks are worth more than gold while stopping for a tea break after a sudden shower.

Trousers are also very important. They must be strong and not restricting. Bend your knees while trying them in the shop; if you feel the fabric pressing the knees tightly, then they are too small. Avoid synthetic products; thick cotton is perfect for the task. Now we reach a delicate area. I had described my encounters with leeches in a separate entry. Despite their being a little nothing, avoiding close encounters with them is recommended. The best is to deny them access to exposed skin, which is an easy task in conservative Nepal. A simple solution is to cover the lower part of the trousers with the socks. Yet, despite a trek not being a catwalk, nobody wants to look like that. Autumn is a tricky time. Weather changes rapidly and sharply; especially in the higher parts of the path. A thin pair of longjohns is perfect to insulate the body from the cold, and also helps against leeches. Cover their lower end with the socks, cover them with the trousers, and your legs will be safe.

Another significant point is the waist. Make sure your T-shirt is covered by the trousers and that the area is sealed with a properly fitted belt. I made a mistake while letting the T-shirt free to allow some airing; minutes later a fast leech was feasting on my belly. We both survived.

An efficient way of dealing with changing temperatures is wearing several layers of thin clothes, putting them on or taking them off according to the conditions. A T-shirt and a fleece top are a perfect combination. Fleece is perfect here because it dries fast and folds tightly.

Sunglasses, a sun hat, light fleece gloves and a small towel complete the list. The towel is great for covering the top of the backpack while walking, so that casual water drops won’t enter it. If drizzling, the towel is then perfect for covering your head while searching for the nearest teahouse.

That’s not all. Pack everything wildly in a backpack and sooner or later you’ll find a wet surprise inside. Pack each item in a separate plastic bag, so that you’ll always have dry clothes to enjoy while sipping that well-earned cup of coffee at the end of the day.

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The lower parts of the Everest trek pass through rather humid parts of the land. Vegetation and fog abound there, creating a haven for leeches; passing trekkers transform this haven into a real heaven for these obnoxious creatures: pleasant climate and easy meals. Knowing how…Read More

The lower parts of the Everest trek pass through rather humid parts of the land. Vegetation and fog abound there, creating a haven for leeches; passing trekkers transform this haven into a real heaven for these obnoxious creatures: pleasant climate and easy meals. Knowing how they work and what can be done is essential for ensuring a safe and satisfying trek.

In two different occasions I fed leeches. The first was near Lamjura Pass and by far was the most dramatic. Despite the fog and the altitude, it was a rather hot day, thus I let my T-shirt over my belt so that sweat would evaporate more easily. My two backpacks left very few evaporation spots available and I was determined to use every available inch; climbing up was truly exhausting. I was too new to the scene to understand my error. My action had left a very comfortable opening for a leech. Expectedly, one of them found a comfortable spot on my stomach. Unable to see the parasite, I wasn’t aware of the event. The leech detached itself after the meal was over and I never saw it.

That’s one of the peculiarities of these beasts. Leeches release an anesthetic to prevent the trekker from feeling its biting jaws, so if they attach themselves on a spot which cannot be seen by the victim, they’ll enjoy a quiet and prolonged meal. Once attached, they secrete an anti-clotting enzyme, hirudin, so that the wound continues bleeding, allowing it to suck the blood easily. The effect of this anticoagulant can last several hours, which in certain cases can be worrying.

Later – and for obvious reasons I cannot be specific on the time - I entered a teahouse for a short break. After putting my backpacks on the ground, I found the lower part of the T-shirt was red with blood and that I had an open wound on my stomach. Since the stomach moves while walking, the wound couldn’t close; that happened only after I pressed on it for a while sipping my tea. The only thing to do after the bleeding stops was disinfecting the area and bandaging it lightly; the place healed in a few days and left no marks.

The second occasion was more visual in nature. Near Kharikhola I found a leech on the inner side of my right wrist, it was on the process of attaching itself. I shook my hand and the mighty predator was left on the ground, where it began a hysteric attempt to run away from me. Yet, we shared the same blood; thus sparing it was the only viable solution

My shaking it away is not a standard way of detaching a leech; it worked only because the jaws weren’t still properly attached. The wound hardly bled this time and in a few minutes there it was difficult to even see the spot. Those facing such an event for the first time may be tempted into pulling away the fat worm; however, that’s an error. Its jaws will break apart and that may break the host’s skin in an unclean way (in contrast, regular jaw-cuts look surgical). Such irregular cuts may cause an infection since leeches can carry a variety of bacteria, viruses, and parasites from previous blood sources; these can survive within a leech for months, and may infect subsequent hosts. In order to avoid that, the most popular way of detaching them is with the help of salt. Just pour a few grains next to the jaws, and the beast would jump away in disgust (apparently they worry about their blood pressure…).
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Patan, or Lalitpur as it is usually called, is the second-largest city in the Kathmandu Valley and lies just across the Bagmati River from Kathmandu. The town is much quieter and its main sights can be covered in an easy day walk. It is located…Read More

Patan, or Lalitpur as it is usually called, is the second-largest city in the Kathmandu Valley and lies just across the Bagmati River from Kathmandu. The town is much quieter and its main sights can be covered in an easy day walk. It is located just five kilometers south from Thamel and it can be easily reached it by bicycle, taxi, bus, riksha or foot. The last option is the most appealing since along the way are many attractions you will cross: Kathmandu’s Durbar Square, colorful temples and nice local coffee shops.

The main attraction of Lalitpur is its Durbar Square; a wise planning will allow a very early visit there because later in the morning the place crowds up. The square has the major display of Newar woodcarving-architecture in Nepal and it includes the Royal Palace, and the two-tiered brick Jagannarayan Temple; just below the roofs are carvings of very active couples. The Patan Museum is located there as well, but as usual in Nepal, the building is more interesting than its collection. The Newar architecture is exquisite; not only the delicate woodcarving but the tasteful use of ordinary bricks in rounded structures. The green hue added by moss perfectly complements the reddish bricks, adding a bit of life to what would be otherwise a rather dry visit.

North of the square is the Golden Temple, a Buddhist monastery watched over by tortoises and the Kumbeshawar, the oldest temple in Patan. It dates back to 1392. South of the square is Mangal Bazaar an area of narrow streets lined with many of the artisans’ shops the town is so proud of.

Four Stupas delimit the historical city and – surprisingly - they are called the Northern, Eastern, Southern and Western Stupas. Finding them is a little tedious; the eastern one is on the very outskirts, the western and the southern are within densely constructed areas (the last is very close to the bus terminal) and the northern one is off the way to Kathmandu, just before a secondary bridge.

Lalitpur has a small Zoo in its eastern part, but if you just came back from the Chitwan National Park, then you can skip it in favor of Jawalalkhel, a huge Tibetan Refugees Centre just south from the zoo. There you can buy colorful carpets and help to their precarious economy.

On your way back to Kathmandu, give some attention to the Bagmati River. It is shallow and wide, its rocky riverbed and riverside does not invite for a splash or a picnic, but you may spot cremation rites performed by the local Nepali/Hindu population within an adjacent temple in its northern shore. Unless you are Hindu, your participation or even visit to the site is not allowed, hence a camera with a good zoom is recommended. See more on the Pashupatinath temple in the Surrounding Kathmandu entry of this journal.

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If asked, most Westerners would acknowledge at least a basic acquaintance with the Chinese cuisine, unaware that what is usually served at Western Chinese restaurants is not representative of the original gastronomic feast. If reaching China, a different world is revealed to them, with hundreds…Read More

If asked, most Westerners would acknowledge at least a basic acquaintance with the Chinese cuisine, unaware that what is usually served at Western Chinese restaurants is not representative of the original gastronomic feast. If reaching China, a different world is revealed to them, with hundreds of dumpling types and not even one of them labeled "vegan."

Nepal is even more complicated. Landlocked between China and India, it offers bits and bites from both giants as well as a rich cuisine of its own. Most of the food and its consumption methods are Indian, but Chinese treats abound, especially in the northern parts of the country, which include the Sagarmatha Park – where Mount Everest is. While trekking there, the intrepid adventurer would find both cuisines and the additional treats brought by trekkers and climbers; then – of course – there are dishes originating in the area. Luckily, trekking and climbing demand a lot of energy, providing thus the perfect excuse to try all the dishes met along the way. Here are a few favorites:

Tsampa or Tzen

Tsampa is the name of barley flour in Nepalese, it is often consumed as porridge; this is the porters’ staple food. It is made by mixing dark high-altitude barley with the white variety and soaking the mix in water for a few days. Then it is roasted on sand until it explodes like popcorn. The result is ground and served mixed with black tea or salt-butter tea. It can be eaten also dry, but that’s not recommended. Eating it with salt-butter tea is recommended only after having tried this unusual drink. In any case, be prepared for a rather insipid porridge.

Tungba

Tungba is a slightly alcoholic drink served in a tall wooden vessel – a barrel in large gatherings - and drunk with a bamboo straw. It is prepared by pouring boiling water over fermented millet. It is not especially tasty but it brings a very colorful local touch to the trip.

Apple Pie and Riki Kul

Brought by foreign trekkers and climbers to Nepal, the apple pie had been adapted to the high altitude and poor water quality conditions of the area. It can be found everywhere, but it is especially popular in the Rai people villages, just below the Sagarmatha Park, where apples are as glorious as the surrounding mountains. The first sight of the dish is surprising since the pie resembles more a South American fried empanada than a typical pie. That’s because they are deep fried in order to use less water in the preparation. It is worth engaging in such a trek just for the opportunity to taste one of these.

A related dish is the riki kul, a potato pancake covered with nak butter and cheese. Nak is the name for the yak’s female. Its cheese makes an excellent snack for the trekking.

Momo

Momo is the Nepalese name for Chinese dumplings, which exist here in several varieties, mainly vegetarian. They are larger than the Chinese counterparts. Smaller potatoes dumplings are used in the Sherpa Soup, which is highly popular in the highlands.

Yak Steaks

Many restaurants advertise yak steaks, tempting many travelers to try it at least once. A thing to keep in mind is that yak meat is available only as a leftover of past expeditions. There are no enough visitors to justify the slaughtering of these animals. So, what’s the meat they serve? It can’t be cow meat; killing cows is a crime in Nepal. The obvious answer is water-buffalos.

Chai and Tea

Few beverages are more varied in their preparation, or more confused to the English speaking world than tea, or "chai" as it is called in India, Nepal and other places. Without repeating common errors, "chai" means just "tea" (it is derived from the Chinese "cha"); the Indian spiced version should be called "masala chai" (literally "spiced tea").

While trekking, teahouses become a beloved feature of the landscape. There, black tea is served hot and sweet. The idea is to drink it fast and then keep walking before the body cools down; there is no need to worry for the loss, another teahouse invariably waits ahead. Depending on the size of the establishment, other drinks - like chai and milo (prepared with water) - may be available. However, the big brother of all teas – the mighty salt-butter tea – is seldom available in teahouses. The best for finding it is searching at the villages.

Salt-Butter Tea

Solja or suchia is the local name for salt-butter tea. The beverage is prepared within a long piston filled with nak milk, butter, salt and black tea. The result is thick, salty and with the taste and smell of rancid butter; it could be described as a prototype of an energy drink. After defining it as a soup instead of a tea, I found it agreeable. The pumpkin flavored version is still to arrive.
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One of the problems of traveling in foreign cultures is the difficulty of remembering truly odd names. Often, these include words describing geographical characteristics or manmade landmarks, but that doesn’t help if the traveler doesn’t speak the local language. In one of my first solo-trips…Read More

One of the problems of traveling in foreign cultures is the difficulty of remembering truly odd names. Often, these include words describing geographical characteristics or manmade landmarks, but that doesn’t help if the traveler doesn’t speak the local language. In one of my first solo-trips abroad, I reached a country which is characterized by very long names; these are made up by gluing together shorter words. Names containing over twenty letters are common there. In the early afternoon of my first day I left the hotel after having memorized the route to the first attraction I wanted to see; a well-known museum which occupies a house in a residential area. Considering this an orienteering practice event, I had memorized the route and even the last twenty or so letters of the street name. I thought that would be enough; after all, what were the chances the first few letters would be important in such a long name?

I found the correct street in minutes and began searching for the correct number. It didn’t exist. No other house in the vicinity looked like a museum. There was neither a sign nor an information booth. The street was desert. That made little sense, since that specific culture is known for its exactitude, the address I had should be exact to the last inch of it. Enjoying the sun, I decided to wait until a denizen would pass nearby. A few minutes later, I was getting a lesson on the local language in front of the non-existent museum. "Prefix, prefix," the man was repeating. "East-west street; east-west street," he continued methodically. He was trying to explain streets in the city were named also according to their position on the eastern or western side of the streets grid (defined by a canal) and that this fact appeared as a prefix in the name. Sadly, I had decided to give up a very important part of the street name

It was a good lesson. Since then, I always try to learn a few basic geographical terms in the language of the places I visit. These words tend to appear time and again in local addresses and names and thus this facilitates locating things and navigating in a foreign place. China is so well-structured than less than fifty Chinese characters are needed to be known in order to navigate successfully through most of its cities and terminals. With that I had been able to elucidate a railways timetable written in Chinese.

Nepal was more complex. Its highlands are settled by various ethnic groups, thus terms in different languages appear during a trek there. Yet, many words are repeated time and again. For example "la," "deorali" and "bhanjyang" mean "mountain pass." Understanding that leads to putting more emphasis in the memorizing of the most important part of the name, for example: "Lamjura," which is the first significant pass along the Jiri-Everest Trek. It also helps while communicating. You can’t approach a denizen along the way and ask "Is the deorali in that direction?" You create then a very complex situation. The denizen can probably point out for you several mountain passes in the immediate vicinity. Which one are you referring to? There is no way for the denizen to answer the first question without losing face or causing you to lose it (unless he guesses right the desired pass). The probable result would be a nervous giggle and no answer at all. Know the name of your passes and ask for "Lamjura," or "Lamjura La," if you want to be fastidiously accurate. However, "Lamjura Deorali" doesn’t work, because it mixes names in different languages.

A related issue is the pronunciation of such names. Seldom are the common transliterations useful in this. While choosing local words it is helpful to choose the easiest to pronounce. In the example above, most humans will pronounce correctly "la," but fail with "deorali" and "bhanjyang." The best way of that is early along the way, essentially while still in Kathmandu. KEEP - Kathmandu Environmental Education Project> - is the best place for getting information and advice on trekking in Nepal and related issues. There, it is possible to meet Nepali guides at the very heart of Thamel, the climbers and trekkers’ headquarters in Kathmandu. Ask one of the guides to pronounce for you slowly the list of trekking terms appearing in this article and write down the clearest way you can (and expect in-between sounds difficult to be put on paper). Once on the mountains, this sheet would be worth more than its weight in gold.

Now to the golden trekking words:

River = chhu, kosi
River Bank = ghat
Lake = kund, pokhri, tal, tarn, tsho, cho
Stream = drangka, khola

Ridge = ri
Mountain = kang
Peak = tse
Snowy Mountains = himal
Mountain pass = la, deorali, bhanjyang

East = shar
West = nup
North = chang
South = lho

Hotel = bhatti
Camping Site = bivvy, bivouac
Tibetan Stuppa = chorten
Prayer Flag Pole = chotar
Village = goan, gau
Buddhist Temple = gompa
Shelter = goth

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Why Nepal? After all one could trek the Himalayas from India, China or any other of several other options. If willing to reach by land the highest mountain n the planet, then China is by far the most comfortable option. If wanting to see the…Read More

Why Nepal? After all one could trek the Himalayas from India, China or any other of several other options. If willing to reach by land the highest mountain n the planet, then China is by far the most comfortable option. If wanting to see the origin of Buddhism, then, Nepal is not predominantly Buddhist, Hindu is the main culture. Several other countries, especially in Southeast Asia offer better encounters with Buddhism. The same holds for the Hindu culture; India is probably a better choice.

Yet, Nepal defeats all these objections. It is by far the preferred destination of trekkers in the Himalayas. In one of those strange shifts in history, Tibetan Buddhists escaped from the 1950s onwards to Nepal and populated the highlands with magnificent temples. Then, the Hindu culture is flourishing, with the royal citadels and the wonderful Newari craftsmanship being carefully restored back to their full splendor. Nature also gave a hand. The northern side of the Himalayas is a brownish plateau, while the southern slopes – the Nepali side – enjoys plenty of water brought by the monsoons and stopped by the mighty mountains. Nepal is wonderfully green.

Culture is an important part of travel; a positive local attitude to foreigners is thus crucial for the success of a trip. Despite most of them not being Buddhists, Nepalis display the broad mindset and tolerance of Hindus, offering a safe and pleasant environment for travelers. Not once during my treks there I felt threatened, despite having visited during a prolonged period of political upheaval. Foreigners were left out of the struggle by all sides involved.

Placed along old trade routes, Nepal was never a key thread on the Silk Road. The mountain passes next to the Himalayas highest peaks were never neither popular nor easy. Despite being tolerant and curious toward travelers (what did they bring? Would they exchange that shiny knickknack?), it never became a cosmopolitan place. Its traditional culture survives for the joy of modern visitors.

Yet, this isn’t paradise. Unlike Thailand, you can’t just drop by whenever you wish so. The winters are harsh in the highlands; the summers are very hot and humid. There are only two short seasons suitable for enjoyable visit; but if wishing to witness the main festivals – Indra Jatra and Dashain – then there is only one option. Miscalculate the trek – or meet an early winter – and the trip is ruined. Add to these strict visa policies limiting the number of days allowed on every year and you end up with a relatively restricted destination. However, after all this is part of this altitude bastion’s charm, the knowledge of having ventured into the real – and often harsh – world.

Then, there is Thamel, a dilapidated – but no less charming – version of Khaosan Road. Regardless the season and weather, it provides a truly cosmopolitan meeting place, with travelers from all over trying to decide between a custard apple strudel and a chili flavored coffee for dessert; futuristic fusions announcing new hopes.
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On Altitude NavigationNavigating on mountainous terrain is very different from doing so on flat ground. In the last, a compass is very important because usually few landmarks are visible. Knowing the path, directions and distances becomes then crucial. On the mountains, the situation is different.…Read More

On Altitude Navigation

Navigating on mountainous terrain is very different from doing so on flat ground. In the last, a compass is very important because usually few landmarks are visible. Knowing the path, directions and distances becomes then crucial. On the mountains, the situation is different. Navigation in the Everest region is not very difficult. The trekker can always climb to the nearest ridge and get views of vast territories that would usually contain many landmarks. The higher the trekker is, the higher peaks he’ll see; most of these have very well known features. This makes finding the correct path a breeze.

Direction and distances are less important and less reliable while on the mountains. Slopes should be accounted for while calculating distances, and that’s difficult while on the windy field. Terrain may change and demand making lengthy detours that would transform any planned path into obsolete.

While navigating on the mountains, the important thing is the landmarks. Note which mountains are to be seen and from which side; which rivers are to be crossed; are they white water streams?. Check out if any of these has special characteristics (Mount Ama Dablam has a very distinctive shoulder, a glacier wall is near the Pyramid and so on). Villages and monasteries are easy to identify. Nepal is densely populated; on a territory which is roughly a third of the Bolivian one (Bolivia shares many geographical features with Nepal) live roughly three times as many people. That means that even in remote mountainous regions villages appear at least every few hours allowing an easy verification of the location.

On the Everest region, most days can be easily walked without the help of a compass. At the strategic level things are clear. However at the tactic one things can get complicated. On some spots there is no clear path and the trekker must take decisions. "I’m on this saddle and must reach that summit – what’s the best path?" is the most typical dilemma the trekker would face. It demands more common sense than navigation experience. Good shoes are more important here than a sophisticated GPS attached to a specially dedicated satellite. A sturdy walking stick is sometimes better than an electronic altimeter.

Under such conditions, the best approach is making a general plan for the walk planned for the next day – when the expected weather can be reliably guessed – but considering the plan just as a good base for changes. That’s an integral part of the freedom experienced in a trek; attempting to walk according to a rigid plan is unreliable. Instead, learning the areas’ main features and attractions is the key for enjoying the experience.

At high altitudes things can change fast. The day I reached Kala Pattar it began snowing before I left. At first the snow was sporadic, but that was enough to hide the path, especially since the last crossed a glacier and frozen ground. For these situations having a map and a compass is essential, though nothing replaces a good understanding of the terrain being crossed. I knew there was a glacier between the Pyramid and Kala Pattar, thus when I reached its edge I just crossed it without checking the exact location and although the path seemed to advance along the glacier’s side. Knowing where I was going was the single most important fact for the successful navigation.

On Gadgets

The temptation to take GPS devices is big, yet probably misplaced. Relying on gadgets that may malfunction (bad batteries, no recharging facilities, lost satellite contact, etc.) instead of on one’s skills is an error. Simply, trusting GPS and maps is not always possible. The terrain may have changed since the map was drawn: small streams may change course, old paths may be covered by vegetation or landslides, other unpredictable events may occur. Nice paths on the map may not be visible on the terrain; the trekker must be prepared to find the correct path relying on alternative methods.

One of the favorite topics among trekkers in the Everest Region is what’s Kala Pattar’s exact altitude. There are as many answers as sources. Moreover, all the trekkers equipped with measurement devices get even new answers. Consider this before buying an expensive gadget and becoming totally dependant on it for finding your path.

Part of the problem is that extreme weather conditions affect the function of these devices and in the low pressure conditions of the Everest region the weather is extreme at all times. Sudden winds can change air pressure quickly and significantly and lead to fluctuations in the measurements. (That’s way many reports state they are an average of x measurements on given conditions.)

Now it’s time for the trek.
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