Wright is Wrong Chapter One: The Greatest Building Never Constructed (in Salem) Once a newspaper in a, relatively, small town, in need of new housing for its operations, approached a noted architect asking if he would design this for them. After a time he offered them…Read More

Wright is Wrong

Chapter One: The Greatest Building Never Constructed (in Salem)

Once a newspaper in a, relatively, small town, in need of new housing for its operations, approached a noted architect asking if he would design this for them. After a time he offered them a preliminary, but radically new, design. It would consist, in part, of columns arranged in a sort of forest, which would reverse-taper from a narrow bottom upwards to splay into largish circular dishes, supporting the upper floors while creating a large open space about their bases. The newspaper was impressed.

The noted architect came to the, relatively, small town to view the site, finish his visualization and finalize his design. Arriving to meet the newspaper's representatives, he announced he’d found a better location for his radically new design and that this was where they would build.

"Oh, no, we can't. We don't own the property," they told him.
"Never mind that," he replied, "just buy the land."
"We can't buy a public greenspace."
"But that’s the only place I’ll consent to construct my radically new design in your town," he informed them.
"It's one of the city's oldest parks! It’s the largest park. It gets used a good bit. We can't buy it!"
"Well, then," said the noted architect, "if I can't build my radically new design there I won't build it for you at all."

And he left.

You couldn't argue with the man. He once told a client complaining of a leaking roof: "Madam, that is how you know it is a roof." (The exchange above is a fictionalization of fact, save the last bit, which is an actual quote.)

Some time later he took his radically new design, slightly re-imagined, to a new client, who was impressed. Dubious local authorities forced him to pile sandbags onto a mockup column proving each could actually bear the load claimed. They were impressed. Where upon The SC Johnson Wax building, in Racine, Wisconsin, became one more item on the list of buildings designed by Frank Lloyd Wright with construction completed in the three-dimensional world. And everyone was impressed.

The Capital Journal had to go elsewhere for the design of their new facility.

All because Frank was such a martinet.

And yes, Bush's Pasture Park is still one of Salem's largest (now third in size to Minto-Brown Island Park’s 900-acres and Wallace Marine Park‘s 114.5), and it still gets used a good bit.

Chapter Two: Insults to Injury?

Once, like a lot of places, Salem had more than one daily newspaper, it had two. The Capital Journal and the Oregon Statesman.

The Oregon Statesman?! Yes, the same one founded by Asahel Bush II back in Oregon City in 1851, which he had moved to Salem in 1853. The same Asahel whose family had donated the then 57 acres of land making up the park, which was named in his honor, to the city for the express purpose of a park in 1917. Very insulting indeed to build a competing paper’s facility upon that land which also sat immediately adjacent to the property upon which he lived. Would Frank have cared about that? Probably not.

But Asahel had sold the Oregon Statesman in 1863. And by 1932, the year in which these events took place, Asahel had been dead for something like 19 years, give or take a few months and a few days. He was obviously well beyond caring. So the irony of the situation is only apparent and not actual, although Asahel’s daughters Sally and Eugenia did still live in Bush House on what remained of the family farm, which would later become part of "the" park as well.

Chapter Three: Sleeping With the Enemy

Once, both papers were very partisan as established.
--The Oregon Statesman (1851) was very much the Democratic mouthpiece.
--The Capital Journal (1888) was founded to further the Republican cause.
But both papers passed into the hands of others and their original affiliations became blurred.

Sidebar: The Portland based Oregonian was more interested in the Whig agenda.

Eventually the Statesman came into the possession of Charles Sprague (he continued publishing during his term as Oregon’s Governor 1939-1943 ... hmm) and the Journal had passed to Bernard Mainwaring. Since the former was a morning paper, while the later was afternoon, the two men decided to use the same facility for publication while maintaining independent staff and content. So the two papers began a joint domicile arrangement. Like sailors aboard a submarine they hot bunked, each having use of the press while the other wasn’t using it.

In 1973 the two companies began a merger to become part of Gannett Company Incorporated.

Ultimately the two papers merged completely as well, and in 1980 the Capital Journal and the Oregon Statesman became the Statesman Journal, which is still published today.

So perhaps it would not have been as inappropriate for the Journal to have been published on former Bush land as it first may have seemed, in the long run, but who could have known that at the time? Anyway, it’s much nicer as a park. Makes a much better story too.

Chapter Four: What Goes Around -- Comes Back to Where it Started

The only Frank Lloyd Wright design that was ever actually constructed in Oregon is the Gordon House, which is now on the grounds of the Oregon Garden in Silverton southeast of Salem.

Frank had designed the house for a site in Wilsonville, a suburb of Portland, in 1957, but it wasn’t built until 1964. By that time Wright had been dead for 4 years. Time passed and as is its tendency was rather unkind to the Gordon House. Unlived in and unloved, or so it seemed until the threat of imminent demolition was raised. This resulted in the house being, after various other contending suggestions were eliminated, sold, partially dismantled and transported to a new location. There, in a terrain that it was not specifically designed for even though the general consensus was that it was appropriate, it was reconstructed, rehabilitated and opened to the public. Wonder what Frank would have made of that?

Resources -- Tours and Other Weblinks:
My Journal: Bush's Pasture Park: (A)sahel to Ga(Z)ebos
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Bush's Pasture Park
Open 5am to midnight.
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Bush House Tours
600 Mission Street SE, Salem, Oregon, 97301
503-363-4714, bushhouse@salemart.org
Adults $4, seniors/students $3, children (6-12) $2
--Tues-Sun (Oct-Apr) 2pm-5pm, (May-Sept) 12pm-5pm. Last tour begins: 4.30pm

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Statesman Journal Tours
Includes among other things: the publisher's office, circulation, advertising, the newsroom, and the printing press.
280 Church Street NE, Salem, Oregon, 97301
503-399-6673
--Duration: 1 hour.
--Thursdays: 3.30pm, Friday: 1.30pm
Use the online form to request a booking.

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Gordon House, (at the Oregon Garden) Tours
879 West Main Street, PO Box 155, Silverton, Oregon, 97381
503-874-6006
toll free: 877-674-2733 ext. 6006
gordonhouse@oregongarden.org
Group Tour information (Pat Deede): 503-874-8249.

--Tours at top of each hour 10am-5pm March-October, 10am-3pm November-February
--Self-guided brochure tour, first floor only: $2
--Guided tour of both floors: $5
--In-Depth Guided tours, the first Saturday of each month at 11am, reservation needed: $15
Tour fees are in addition to Garden admission fees:
--Adults: $5.00
--Seniors (60+) $4.00
--Students (8 -17) $4.00
--Children (under 8) Free

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Links:
--Society of Architectural Historians "Frank Lloyd Wright's Design for the Capital Journal, Salem, Oregon (1932)" by Donald Leslie Johnson, "Journal of the Society of Architectural Historians 55.1" (March 1996) The article itself isn’t online.
--SCJW Administration Building and Research Tower Writing Portfolio site. A history of the design, without noting why it wasn’t built.
--SC Johnson Wax Building Wright in Wisconsin site.
--Johnson Wax BuildingGreat Buildings Online site. Downloadable 3-D model.
--Frank Lloyd Wright, A Film by Ken Burns More background information on Wright.
--Statesman Journal History
--Charles A. Sprague Oregon State Archives site.

The tiny town of Gates, Oregon (pop. 495), where my mother and father had been living for the last 15 years, is about 35 miles east of Salem on Highway 22. Improvements have been made to the highway in the last few years, and it’s…Read More

The tiny town of Gates, Oregon (pop. 495), where my mother and father had been living for the last 15 years, is about 35 miles east of Salem on Highway 22. Improvements have been made to the highway in the last few years, and it’s quite a pretty drive. Gates and the neighboring town of Mill City are on the way to Detroit Lake and Bend. A couple of restaurants are worth mentioning, and reviews are posted separately.

My dad has always enjoyed a drive. Getting there is better than the destination itself as far as he’s concerned. We thought he’d enjoy a drive to Detroit Lake for lunch.

On days like this one, I wonder why I don’t like the Pacific Northwest. The greenery is amazing. On this drive through the Willamette National Forest, we see many waterfalls and creeks that flow into the Santiam River. The sun shines through tall evergreens of many varieties. Then I notice the moss clinging to the bark of every tree and remember—it’s this green because the rainfall can reach up to 150 inches a year.

On this drive to Detroit Lake, watch for the waterfalls, particularly just east of Niagara Park. We stopped for lunch at The Cedars restaurant. Quite a disappointment. I had a hamburger that was quite unremarkable. Service was fine and the small gift shop gave me the opportunity to buy gifts to take home to the kids from their wide selection of candy sticks.

Turning left out of the Cedars restaurant parking lot, a narrow road ends at Detroit Flats. A perfect place for a picnic lunch at the water’s edge, it would have been a better choice for a meal!

Address: 23924 territorial Highway, Monroe, OR 97456, tel. 541 847 5792. We definitely saved the best for last. Completely out of the way and in the South Willammette Valley, it took us an hour plus to arrive here from the other wineries in the North…Read More

Address: 23924 territorial Highway, Monroe, OR 97456, tel. 541 847 5792.

We definitely saved the best for last. Completely out of the way and in the South Willammette Valley, it took us an hour plus to arrive here from the other wineries in the North Willamette Valley, driving pellmell through backroads flanked by truly golden fields, which were a lovely change from the leafy views of the Red Hills. Rick and I had drank an excellent bottle of Benton Lane Pinot Noir while in Chicago a few months earlier, and we can sincerely say that one bottle of wine was our inspiration for the whole day of tastingin Oregon. When we began our journey, we couldn't even remember the name of the winery, but we knew the label -- a distinctive and whimsical red and white postage stamp, with their vineyards as the centerpiece. This winery produces only Pinot noir, and boy do they do it well (we left with four bottles). I believe the owners of the vineyard had been involved with Napa Valley's Stag's Leap. We arrived a bit bedraggled from the drive, but the pourer, Sharon Whitney, poured us a few tastes of their current vintages and gently started up a conversation about wine, asking us, "When did you start thinking about and enjoying wine?" It didn't hurt that we were the only tasters in there the whole time -- we slipped in a half hour before closing. While there are not as many wineries in this part of the Valley, it is worth it to include a few in a trip, as they should always be a bit quieter than those in the North Valley.   Close

Address: 9409 NE Worden Hill Road, Dundee, OR 97115, tel. 800 539 9463. We arrived at Erath, tasted a few wines, and began to think that perhaps we weren't such discriminating wine drinkers after all, as most of the wines we tasted we enjoyed. Or…Read More

Address: 9409 NE Worden Hill Road, Dundee, OR 97115, tel. 800 539 9463.

We arrived at Erath, tasted a few wines, and began to think that perhaps we weren't such discriminating wine drinkers after all, as most of the wines we tasted we enjoyed. Or perhaps we were so pleased with the views of the hills around us -- rolling green hills covered in trees and open vineyards -- that we were happy to keep toasting to each vintage. This tasting room was the most crowded of all, but we perservered at our spot by the bar and bought a few bottles of Chardonnay, reserve and estate. The reserve was buttery, smooth, and full, and so was the estate but to a lesser degree. Months later, unable to find the estate at shops in New York, I emailed the winery and ordered a case. Half I gave as gifts, the rest I'm saving for summer meals.   Close

Address: 691 Highway 99W, Dundee, OR 97115, tel. 503 538 8520. Another winery on the main drag, by this time Rick and I had realized we were moving from place to place with the same group of tasters, and they were getting annoying. So we…Read More

Address: 691 Highway 99W, Dundee, OR 97115, tel. 503 538 8520.

Another winery on the main drag, by this time Rick and I had realized we were moving from place to place with the same group of tasters, and they were getting annoying. So we decided to take our time at this winery and let the group advance without us, and as a result we bonded with the pourer. She in turn graced us with complimentary tastes of special vintages of their premier sparkling wines, and explained to us the difference in taste between sparklers made with different varietals (or blends). We did not make a purchase, although I wanted to, only because our budget was starting to feel the strain. I'd definitely recommend stopping here as well, if only to taste the acclaimed sparkling wines, but try and get there early as it can get crowded and noisy.   Close

Address: 5000 Sokol Blosser Lane, Dundee, OR, tel. 800 582 6668. After many false starts and trips up dirt roads that led to closed wineries (always call first if you really want to taste particular wines!), we arrived way up Route 221 at Sokol Blosser.…Read More

Address: 5000 Sokol Blosser Lane, Dundee, OR, tel. 800 582 6668.

After many false starts and trips up dirt roads that led to closed wineries (always call first if you really want to taste particular wines!), we arrived way up Route 221 at Sokol Blosser. This winery had a much more established feel, and indeed you could tell that they are situated more on the main wine "drag" -- much closer to Portland, they had cityfolk coming to buy cases of wine for Fourth of July parties and weddings. I enjoyed their wine, and indeed we bought 4 or 5 bottles of various labels -- a Pinot Noir, a Cab Sauvignon, and a special blended white called Evolution No. 9 which I'm waiting to drink with some top-notch Thai take-out. While we were there it was raining, so we chose to stay inside at the bar and taste away, but you could also take a self-guided tour through a part of their vineyards. (I hear that if you try and pluck the grapes while touring an alarm will sound.) I would definitely include this vineyard in any tasting tour of the Willamette Valley, as the wines are worth it and the surroundings are very pleasant. There is a deck outside where you can take a newly-purchased bottle of wine, and a picnic lunch and relax with friends at tables. In sunny weather, I can't think of anything more pleasant.   Close

Address: 2995 Michigan City Avenue NW, Salem, OR, Tel 503 362 1596. This was our first stop after heading out from the B&B, and if there was ever a winery to give us an indication that the Oregon appellations were something unique, this was it!…Read More

Address: 2995 Michigan City Avenue NW, Salem, OR, Tel 503 362 1596.

This was our first stop after heading out from the B&B, and if there was ever a winery to give us an indication that the Oregon appellations were something unique, this was it! When we drove up the gravel road, we were directed by a cartoon of a woman, bathing in a barrel of wine. Not even half an hour outside of Downtown Salem, this vineyard is situated up on a hill that is set so farback from Route 221 that you can't see one while at the other -- heaven! Of course, the tasting room overlooks acres of their grape vines, and as I stood there at about 11am with a sip of Cabernet Sauvignon in my hand, looking over the fields, I could not think of a better way to start my day. Redhawk is know mostly for its highly unorthodox wine labels. Many of them are cartoons which spoof on wine and its sometimes-snobbish culture. For example, one of the wines they produce comes bottled with a near-image of the Grateful Dead logo -- a red table wine, its name is "Grateful Red." Instead of the usual chamber or jazz music that is piped into tasting rooms, these folks had good old fashioned rock and roll in the background. For personality and character, as well as reasonably priced table wines, this is a great first stop.   Close

Address: 18380 NE Buena Vista Road, POBox 8, Dundee, OR 97115, tel. 503 538 6476. Again, Rick and I arrived at another tasting room where we could not decide if were were glad we came for the wine or for the views. This winery is…Read More

Address: 18380 NE Buena Vista Road, POBox 8, Dundee, OR 97115, tel. 503 538 6476.

Again, Rick and I arrived at another tasting room where we could not decide if were were glad we came for the wine or for the views. This winery is even higher than Erath, and both afford splendid views of the Red Hills. Like most other Oregon wineries, Lange produces a Pinot Noir and a Pinot Gris. Theirs, however, are very dry and if you like dry wine, these will enchant you. If you don't like dry wine, fear not: you can play with their puppy and their cat, which have wines named after them.   Close

This elegant 1878 mansion is now a museum. It's packed with many interesting items relating to the history of the area. It's set on 90 acres with lovely oak groves and gardens. There's also an art center and greenhouse.…Read More

This elegant 1878 mansion is now a museum. It's packed with many interesting items relating to the history of the area. It's set on 90 acres with lovely oak groves and gardens. There's also an art center and greenhouse.   Close

This is a living tribute to the valley's textile industry and features an 1896 wool mill, historic homes and the Marion County Historical Society Museum. The park-like setting adds to the charm of this wonderful place.…Read More

This is a living tribute to the valley's textile industry and features an 1896 wool mill, historic homes and the Marion County Historical Society Museum. The park-like setting adds to the charm of this wonderful place.   Close