A couple of things I did for security before I left the U.S. to protect myself in the unlikely event that something happened like I get pick pocketed or I lost my passport.1. I took my smartphone and its camera and took photos of…Read More

A couple of things I did for security before I left the U.S. to protect myself in the unlikely event that something happened like I get pick pocketed or I lost my passport.

1. I took my smartphone and its camera and took photos of my credit cards that I was bringing (both sides so you have the collect call number of each credit card company) and emailed it to myself.

2. I took a very legible photo of my passport on my smartphone both the outside and the first page (where my photos and details are) and again, emailed them to myself.

Why my smart phone camera as oppose to a regular camera? I signed up for an unlimited plan on my phone before I left. My smart phone will be my emergency phone for the duration of the trip. I had a blackberry bold with AT&T and each place I went including the ship had signal and I received emails and data. Anyway, the reason why I took the photos using my smart phone is that I have those photos of my credit cards and passports in my smart phone to show people in case of emergency. If I get pick pocketed, I doubt they'll pick pocket both front pockets. I put my money clip and credit cards in one front pocket while I have my smart phone in another.

Why email it to myself? Well, in case you get robbed and they take both the phone and wallet, you can find your way to the ship somehow or get into an internet cafe, access your email (where the photos of our credit cards are sent) and read them out to cancel them.

Printing them out on paper and taking them with you just gets them lost and crumpled up. In case of an emergency, you can still use the photo of your passport to at least try to enter the U.S. Embassy as oppose to nothing at all.

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Here it is. My Pilgrimage reaches its peak today. Again, remember to retain your ISRAELI LANDING CARD you received in Day 6 along with your Sea Card and photo ID. Basic information and recommendations are the same here as it is for…Read More

Here it is. My Pilgrimage reaches its peak today.

Again, remember to retain your ISRAELI LANDING CARD you received in Day 6 along with your Sea Card and photo ID. Basic information and recommendations are the same here as it is for Day 6 in Haifa in fact they are strict in the dress code especially in the old city of Jerusalem. Additionally, on Jewish holy places, you have to cover your head with a cap (opposite the Christian Church’s I know it is confusing but you have to simply remember where you are visiting and adjust accordingly).

Also, if you didn't notice, this day is Sunday and though at first I was concerned that there will be many holy sites closed because it is Sunday, turns out they don't consider Sunday the Sabbath day. Saturday is the day of Sabbath so Sunday is their Monday here in Israel. Just so you know.

Getting off the ship and into Ashdod port was a bit nerve racking considering the snafu the day before. This time, for Ashdod, the entire cruise sponsored excursion buses AND the personally arranged tours are right outside the gangway. We did have a bit of hard time finding the guide again but this time, our now new friends Lou and Sharon from Canada went up and down the entire length of the port where all the tour buses was waiting and found our guide at the very end of the port. I personally would not have walked to the other end of the port to find the Port Promotions guys so my recommendation is to look up and down the area where all the tours are starting especially when you see a bunch of small vans parked together. For some reason, Port Promotions (ADC Holidays) didn’t bother walking all the way down to where the passengers disembark so you may have to do it for them. Anyway, just make sure you look all the way down the line of parked cars and look for them.

Our guides name was Avraham Shomer and like David on the previous day, he was originally from another country and an immigrant (from Sweden) and moved to Israel in his 20s though he spoke perfect Hebrew, English and some Arabic. He also lived in a Kibbutz. He was very knowledgeable as well. Highlights of the tour included the Garden of Gethsemane, Church of All Nations, The Western Wailing Wall and the Church of the Holy Sepulcher.

A note about the Church of Holy Sepulcher: There are literally thousands of people in this wide complex of twisting and turning hallways. You can easily lose your party or friends if you are not careful. Make sure you arrange for a designated area to find each other in case someone in your party gets lost.

Lunch is Jerusalem was in a small tavern in the Jewish Quarter where they served us the best freaking’ falafel I’ve ever had!! (About $20 Euros for two people).
Without going through any politics, I have to say that I was left with sadness that the people of Jerusalem will not solve their differences easily. Israeli’s are very proud people. They are proud of their accomplishments such as one of the best governmental social programs, strong economy, good mix of cultures and strong tourism. For a country no larger than the size of New Jersey, they have carved themselves a small, yet fiercely independent nation.

I really, really liked Israel and I really enjoyed visiting, meeting and talking to Israelis. I find them very friendly, culturally accepting and truly kind people. Just remove politics off the discussion and you will find that these people are just as much alike as you.
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SOME BASIC INFORMATION: REMEMBER to bring your Israeli Landing Card you received the day before along with your Sea Card (room key) and a photo ID. In fact, 1st, you will need to adjust your watch since you have lost an hour of…Read More

SOME BASIC INFORMATION:

REMEMBER to bring your Israeli Landing Card you received the day before along with your Sea Card (room key) and a photo ID. In fact, 1st, you will need to adjust your watch since you have lost an hour of time during the night from Turkey. So my 9am start felt more like an 8am start so it was an early day for me. Most people in Israel speak both Hebrew and English since the area use to be part of a British colony. As far as currency is concerned, Israel uses their local currency in Shekels. Check your current exchange rate but the Shekels to U.S. dollar were 4 shekels to 1 U.S. Dollar as a point of reference. However, most of the merchants do take U.S. dollars or Euros or both. In fact, I never changed any of my money to Shekels and simply used a combination of U.S. dollars and Euros the entire day as well as in Ashdod (Jerusalem) as well. In regards to crime and security, again, exercise common sense caution here. There are pick pockets in some areas. I heard of a passenger on my cruise getting pick pocketed in Bethlehem. If you are worried about terrorists and other crazy things, well don’t. It’s foolish to think that in this country. I never felt in any danger and the amount of security people around Jerusalem and in major sites of Israel, no one will dare even think about doing anything. I felt completely safe.

DRESS conservatively. No exposed shoulders or knees are allowed especially in Churches. Though I recommend hats to stave off the sun, make sure you remember to remove them when visiting a major site out of respect. They do exercise these dress codes stringently in most sites. I saw a woman being denied entry since she had on a tank top. Also, I personally got chided for forgetting to take off my baseball cap at one of the Church’s (it was quite embarrassing so please be warned).
On this day, my wife and I decided to book a trip to visit Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee area where Jesus Christ was known to have lived a good portion of his adult life. We booked our tour through Port Promotions again and this time there was a bit of problem finding our tour guide at first.

NOTE ABOUT PERSONAL ARRANGED TOURS IN HAIFA: the private or personally arranged tours (other than the cruise sponsored tours) can wait OUTSIDE the port terminal area. So if you went with another company or Port Promotions, you have to actually walk to the outside of the terminal building to find them. Don’t get confused since our cruise ship allowed their sponsored excursion buses right outside the gangway. Don’t wait there for Port Promotions or any other personally booked tours… you have to go outside the terminal almost to the area where the taxis are waiting.
After walking to the outside of the port terminal, I saw the Canadian couple Lou and Sharon from Turkey again and so at least I know they booked Port Promotions as well. After the designated meeting time expired, I went ahead and used my cell phone to call the emergency contact phone number on my voucher, the lady on the other line told me that the guide was there but he didn’t have a sign. She directed me to wait at one of the exits of the port terminal and provided me with the guide’s first name. After calling out his name (David) a couple of times, he saw me and waved me over. He quickly apologized to me and said that he had just gotten the assignment the night before and didn’t get the complete list of tourist until that day and that he didn’t know the name of our group was "Port Promotions". Turns out, another 10 people were waiting, lost as well until I helped David a bit to get them together. The couple in Kusadasi, Turkey was with us as well totaling 14 people in a minibus along with a driver and David.

Well, turned out our Tour Guide was quiet knowledgeable as well. David Robens is a 15 year veteran tour guide and lived himself near Haifa. David Robens was born in Chile but moved to Israel after meeting his wife. He lived in a nearby Kibbutz and gave us some very good information about the way of life there as well as the Jewish traditions.
The full day tour included highlights such as Mount of Beatitudes, Capernaum, seeing the River Jordan, seeing where Jesus Christ was known to have the Sermon of the Mound, saw the approximate area where Jesus met the apostles for the first time to become "fishers of men" as well as the spot where Jesus proclaimed that Peter will be his successor as well as visited the town known to have St. Peter’s house. We stopped for lunch at this restaurant by the Sea of Galilee where they served fish and pasta run by a Kibbutz. The food was good but a bit pricey ($20 Euros per person including tips) so be prepared. Later for our last stop, we visited the Church famed to be where Mary, the Virgin Mother of Christ, was visited by an angel for the first time

Overall, our experience with Port Promotions (ADC Holidays in Israel) with two exceptions. 1) Meeting us at the port could have been smoother at the very beginning where we had difficulty finding each other. Some of the other people in our group was very disappointed by this but for me, things like this do happen from time to time. 2) One of the stops was canceled (the place where Jesus was known to have multiplied the fish and bread for all people listening to his sermon) because the place was unexpectedly not accepting tourist that day. 3) We had to stop for lunch near the end of our tour and the restaurant that we went to (a Kibbutz run restaurant at the Sea of Galiliee area) had fair food but extremely over priced for what we were served.

The good news is that the group was indeed smaller and we did avoid the major crowds especially the cruise ship buses. I do highly recommend this excursion again especially with the wide ranges of placed you have to see. It would be very difficult to do all these sites on your own without someone who knows the area well.

Now I have heard of people doing a 2-day overnight/overland to including Jerusalem. Personally, after comparing this 2 day tour with ours, what we saw versus what the overnighters saw was comparable if not identical in most cases. Remember that unlike Egypt, Israel is the size of New Jersey. Seeing sights in one area and then going back to the ship to sleep and head back towards the Jerusalem for the 2nd day is as good as any itinerary as the overnighters. Bottom line is that don’t waste your money on a hotel room spending overnight there. You won’t save that much time doing it, you won’t see too much more and you’ll be spending twice as much.
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Like so many others before and since, my first direct experience with the State of Israel involved landing on Israeli soil at Ben Gurion Airport amid a thunder of applause. I'm not sure why the applause caught me by surprise, but it was a wonder-filled…Read More

Like so many others before and since, my first direct experience with the State of Israel involved landing on Israeli soil at Ben Gurion Airport amid a thunder of applause. I'm not sure why the applause caught me by surprise, but it was a wonder-filled occurrence that seemed perfect for the moment. Each passenger on board seemed separately grateful to have arrived in this special place. Whether they were coming home literally or spiritually, each felt a kinship with this "old-new land" and each seemed to welcome this public expression of shared joy.

The newly arrived passengers filed out of the cabin one-by-one and two-by-two: the ultra orthodox with pe'ot, tallit, and head coverings; the students with walkmen and backpacks; the tourists with cameras and guidebooks; and the returning Israelis with shopping bags stuffed to overflowing with hard-to-find goodies for family and friends. Our diversity was as exciting as the land to which we came. As we reached the tarmac, some fell on their knees and kissed the ground. The thick layer of asphalt didn't matter--it was still holy ground. Others greeted waiting relatives with loud shouts, generous hugs, and large wet kisses. Still others marched smartly through customs, got their passports stamped, and turned to meet Israel on their own private terms.

As with most first-time visitors, the wonder of Israel was my constant companion. The past and the present met in ways that were at once imperfect and sublime. I could not resist simultaneous images of David and Jonathan, of Zionist pioneers taming and defending the land, and of contemporary Israelis in all their variety and vitality. It now seems natural to me that the immediacy of history has transformed every Israeli into a historian (though not necessarily a good one!). The assassination of Rabin, the '48 War for Independence, and the Revolt of the Maccabees--all are equally important. Each has a direct impact on the events of both present and future. The ancient past and the ancient language of Israel are as clear and relevant as today's headlines.

The very air of Israel was and is filled with excitement. People and landscapes merge to reflect the past and the future with a magic and energy that seem almost impossible to imagine anywhere else. Israel is not just a place, it's a frame of mind. One might even say that Israel is a worldview--albeit one with as many facets as there are individuals caught in its web. And the worldview of Israel is still Zionist at its core. If there is a point of agreement between the friends and foes of Israel, between secular and religious Israelis, between Jews and Arabs, or between Zionist and anti-Zionist activists, it is that Zionism has provided the undergirding of strength and unity upon which the modern State of Israel was established and has been preserved.

After more than 60 years as a nation-state, it is important to ask about how Israel will move forward into her next 60 years--and into her next 120 years. Are her leaders determined to fortify the Zionist dream by encouraging Israel's continued diversity? Or would they destroy it by imposing a theocratic interpretation that would determine who is and is not a Jew? who may and may not become or remain an Israeli? Will they build on the past to strengthen the future? Or would they return to some singular aspect of the past to recreate the future in that image? In no other land is the past more important to the present and the future than it is in Israel.

Thus Israel is yet again at a key crossroad. Modern Zionists cannot afford to be apathetic about the direction taken by Israel and her government. The result will determine whether the Israeli jewel will continue its multifaceted sparkle, or whether it will be reduced to the dull sheen of a monochromatic Middle Eastern theocracy--Jewish rather than Muslim in its content. The future of Israel deserves to continue reflecting the diversity of her past and present, to continue reflecting the tolerance and common-sense approach toward ethnic and religious minorities that characterized most of the founders of modern Zionism. Anything less would diminish Israel's standing as a modern democracy and her fundamental character. What a sad fate that would be for the Zionist dream that has thus far accomplished so much with so little.

- BawBaw/DAnneCClose

OverviewFew places on Earth provoke intense emotion more readily than does Jerusalem. Even the name one applies to this ancient city can provoke controversy: Whether you choose to call it Yerushalayim, Jerusalem, or Al-Quds is often a political statement. Certainly there's no shortage of descriptors…Read More

Overview

Few places on Earth provoke intense emotion more readily than does Jerusalem. Even the name one applies to this ancient city can provoke controversy: Whether you choose to call it Yerushalayim, Jerusalem, or Al-Quds is often a political statement.

Certainly there's no shortage of descriptors to apply to this extraordinary city: beautiful, timeless, passionate, inspiring, troublesome, enigmatic, holy, poignant, controversial, beguiling--the list is endless. Once again, your choices will tell as much about you as about the city.

Jerusalem is a mosaic built over time by an extraordinary diversity of influences. Moreover, for millennia it has been at the center of conflict--and yet looks ever hopefully for a path to peace. Since King David seized "Salem" from the Jebusites around 1000 B.C.E., it has been destroyed, occupied, and rebuilt many times over. Imperial masters of the city have included the Babylonians, Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Turks, Christian Crusaders--and the British.

The magnificent walls of the Old City, constructed by the Ottomans in the 16th century, are the latest in a long series of defensive barriers built to protect against would-be conquerors--unless, of course, you count the barbed wire that divided the city between 1948 and 1967. The Israeli military cemetery on Mount Herzl and pre-1967 Jordanian emplacements on Ammunition Hill bring the city's saga of defense and conquest right down to the present.

Jerusalemites maintain that in Jerusalem the past lives in the present. It’s certainly true that the past--given the city's preeminence for three great religions--is never far away. At an archeological site overlooking the Kidron and Hinnom valleys, one can experience the City of David, Israel’s ancient capital. Remnants of Roman market stalls are still visible in the Old City. Prophets and martyrs are buried in the Kidron Valley. And pilgrims follow in the footsteps of Jesus on the Via Dolorosa, pray at the Kotel (the Wailing Wall), or gaze at the continuing splendor of the Dome of the Rock.

Modern influences in Jerusalem are reflected in some of the city's place names. For example, visitors can wander the German Colony or the Russian Compound. Small-scale colonization by groups committed to maintaining both a long-term presence and to preserving their distinct identities has also had an impact. Thus, the Armenian Quarter in the Old City has been vital focus of the larger Armenian community and the Hasidim have recreated the East European stehtl in places like Mea Shearim.

Although Jerusalem strives valiantly to live with its diversity and to come to terms with its past., the strains caused by decades of conflict between Arabs and Israelis are much in evidence. One cannot ride a bus or order pizza without living in the shadow of violence. Many observers note the existence of two or even three Jerusalems: West Jerusalem, which is predominantly Jewish; East Jerusalem, which is predominantly Arab Palestinian; and the Old City, claimed by both.

Visitors to West Jerusalem can browse through the restaurants and shops of Ben Yehuda, tour the seat of government for modern Israel at the Knesset, and indulge in the familiar comforts of a typical European city. Visitors to East Jerusalem can pray at neighborhood mosques, drink heavy Turkish coffee in local cafes, and sample a lifestyle that is more typically Middle Eastern.

How these two rivals accommodate one another, and how they share the prize they both covet--the Old City--is one of the great challenges of the 21st century. Those of us who love Jerusalem, by whatever name, can only hope that they will rise sufficiently to the challenge.

Transportation

Jerusalem lends itself nicely to walking. It is a city of neighborhoods, and all things considered, it is still a relatively small town. Parks and historic sights are a pleasure to explore on foot. The Old City in particular is a walker's paradise. But beware! Jerusalem is also a city of hills--or mountains, if you prefer. One truly must go up and down Mount Zion, Mount Scopus, and French Hill.

The ever-present Egged buses run frequently and are relatively inexpensive--a cost that can be reduced further still by purchasing multiple-use passes. Taxis are also fairly inexpensive by American and British standards, and they are the key to getting around town on Shabbat, when buses do not run. Rental cars should be considered only by the strong willed and stout hearted. Jerusalem defines aggressive driving.

Lodging

What's your budget? Choices range from 5-star hotels to modest hostels--or anything in between. I stayed on a B&B plan at the Palatin Hotel just off King George V Street and was entirely comfortable for an affordable rate. I also stayed in a student dorm on Mount Scopus, possibly the best bargain in town. The dearth of tourists in recent years has made for some incredible bargains in lodging. It truly is a matter of "seek and ye shall find." Wherever you stay, locals are likely to be your best source of information on restaurants, shops, activities, and attractions. Ask questions regularly. You'll get good answers. In general, Jerusalemites LOVE to talk about their city--and who can blame them?

Tours

Tours of all sorts are available--in the city and beyond. Egged has the most reliable (or at least the largest) operation for offering tours and guides. Visitors enrolled in any sort of program at Hebrew University should take advantage of the wide number of tours they make available. And the city’s religious institutions offer specialized tours tailored to their co-religionists. In the past, youths haunting public places tried to hustle a bit of cash by offering private tours. This practice is less common today, but tourists should be wary.

Restaurants

Western Jerusalem has no shortage of restaurants, most of which are kosher. Israelis represent a wide range of cultures and nationalities, and that pluralism is reflected in the food choices available. Here again, I tend to prefer word of mouth and have been known to ask recommendations from store clerks, the hotel staff, and seatmates on the city bus.

Note that finding a restaurant open in Jerusalem on Friday night IS a problem--though sharing the Sabbath meal with local friends can offer a wonderful solution. Many visitors to Jerusalem choose to spend Friday night in Tel Aviv or Haifa or Eilat to ensure that Friday night and Saturday have a full range of choices for dining and other activities.

Shopping

Shopping in Jerusalem is a happy challenge. My favorite areas include the Ben Yehuda pedestrian mall, shops scattered along King George V, the galleries on King David, and the souks of the Old City. Gift shops in the museums and Hebrew University's bookstores should also be explored. Bargaining over price is a big part of shopping in the city, but it is by no means a universal practice. Bargaining is almost required, however, in the Old City.

The best rule of thumb for shopping is to know what you're looking for and where you're buying it. If that means paying bit more to purchase expensive jewelry from a reliable source, then do so. I would be loath to go to the souk for gems or precious metals, for example, so my Yemenite silver jewelry came from a shop on King George. But the olive wood ornaments purchased for friends back home came from the souk. My Nimrod scandals came from a shoe store in Ben Yehuda, but my colorful collection of head scarves came from the souk.

Money

Bring your ATM and credit cards. ATM machines are scattered throughout the city, and your plastic is almost universally welcome.

Getting There

The road to Jerusalem is most commonly by a major airline to Ben Gurion airport outside Tel Aviv, then by sherut (shared taxi) from the airport to the city. Reservations for a sherut are not necessary. A fleet will be waiting. For your return trip, however, ask your hotel to reserve your space and allow plenty of time for airport security.

Security

Israelis take security seriously, and so should you. That means keeping your eyes open for anything suspicious and being patient about having your handbag or backpack searched. It also means becoming accustomed to (and even comforted by) the routine show of force symbolized by soldiers carrying arms in public places.

On the whole, the key is to be sensible but to live life to the full. You are in Jerusalem. So while it would be imprudent to drive your rental car through Mia Shearim on Shabbat or to hold a Netanyahu rally in the midst of an Arab neighborhood in East Jerusalem, life here is joyful and should be lived accordingly.

Further Information

If it’s your first visit, take along a good guidebook. There are several available, and many appeal to special interests. Whatever you choose, there is so much to see and do that a guidebook provides a helpful sanity check that adds to your enjoyment--or it did for me.

- BawBaw/DAnneC
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My Jerusalemite friend looked a bit concerned when I told her my plans to travel by bus to Masada on my last full day in Israel. I reassured her, telling her that I had worked out the schedule for departure and return and reminding her…Read More

My Jerusalemite friend looked a bit concerned when I told her my plans to travel by bus to Masada on my last full day in Israel. I reassured her, telling her that I had worked out the schedule for departure and return and reminding her that my very presence here in Israel--alone and on my own--should demonstrate that I could handle such an outing.

My friend insisted that it wasn't MY abilities--or even my safety--that worried her. She then reminded me that the ubiquitous Egged buses were not exactly known for keeping to schedule. She noted that I had been spoiled by the relatively regular bus service provided within the City of Jerusalem. What concerned her was that buses making long trips to out-of-the-way places tend to run on "Jewish time," which may be more apt to reckon time by the ages of the universe rather than concern themselves with daily timetables. Conceivably, I could get down to Masada without a reliable way back--and as a result, I could miss my flight back to the States.

No self-respecting Israeli would issue such dire warnings without providing the required followup plan to save the day. And, of course, my friend did have advice: I should just go ahead, she said, and stick to my plan. But I should be sure not to wait until the last scheduled departure from Masada to return to Jerusalem. The last bus of the day, she said, often simply doesn't appear. She had one further piece of advice: In the event that something went wrong and I needed a way back to Jerusalem, I should hitch a ride on one of the tour buses. Yeah, right, I thought, hitch a ride. . . .

I listened politely but really didn't give much credence to my friend's pessimism. It was early September, and I figured the busy tourist season would be reason enough to keep buses running to Masada more or less on schedule. I mean, who doesn't want to see Masada on a trip to Israel?

By the time the second bus scheduled to depart Jerusalem for Masada failed to appear, I was beginning to pay more attention to my friend's warnings. I took the third bus with a bit of trepidation, but I was certain I could make the trip down and return before nightfall. I assumed that this bus would make it to Masada somewhere near its scheduled arrival time. I was wrong. By the time I stepped out on the Judean desert at the base of the rocky outcrop that holds the remains of Herod's fortress, it was less than an hour before time to catch the next-to-the-last bus to Jerusalem.

I was in torment. What could I do? Was it really possible that I could have come to this place only to stare up at Masada without stepping foot on its summit? No, I decided. It was not possible!

Remembering my friend's advice, I headed straight for the parking lot with its small number of tour buses. Finding one with a single person inside, I stepped up to the door and boldly asked "Yerushalayim?" "Ken (yes)," replied the man. Having used up a goodly portion of my conversational Hebrew, I proceeded to explain my problem in English and asked if I might be able to join this tour and return with the group to Jerusalem. "Of course," said the guide. (How had I known he was the guide? How did I know he would speak English? I don't know how I knew. I just knew.) "But you will have to pay the fee for the cable car to the top. All members of my group have that charge included in the price of the tour." Nothing else was asked of me--then or later.

So I joined the tour headed by this kindly man and beheld the spectacle that is Masada, including the panorama of the Dead Sea stretching out into the distance. It was an indescribable experience that I continue to cherish. The somewhat unusual circumstances surrounding the outing have made it even more memorable. Not the least of my many satisfactions was the amazement of my family when I recounted my tale.

As for the tour guide who had mercy on my predicament, he returned me safely to Jerusalem, dropping me off at one of my familiar city bus shelters. As I left the bus, I handed him a tip that was approximately equal to the cost of the tour and thanked him for his kindness. He accepted graciously and wished me a safe journey home.

- BawBaw/DAnneCClose

On April 1, 1925, Lord Arthur James Balfour stood on the summit of Mount Scopus (Har Hatsofim, in Hebrew) to dedicate the establishment of The Hebrew University of Jerusalem. Today, 85 years later, the university looks back proudly on an impressive record of accomplishment. As…Read More

On April 1, 1925, Lord Arthur James Balfour stood on the summit of Mount Scopus (Har Hatsofim, in Hebrew) to dedicate the establishment of The Hebrew University of Jerusalem. Today, 85 years later, the university looks back proudly on an impressive record of accomplishment. As envisioned by Israel's Zionist founders, the university contributed to preparing the youth of the pioneer generations as leaders of "modern Israel"--both in terms of educating the citizens of the State of Israel itself and in providing an important center of learning for the Diaspora. After independence was achieved, the university provided a focal point for defining Israel and Israelis through interaction between Jews and non-Jews participating in programs offered through HU's Rothberg International School.

The History

1925-1948. In many respects, the university's history mirrors that of the nation it serves. Before independence, the Mount Scopus campus grew and matured concurrently with the development of the infrastructure that would sustain the Yishuv--the Jewish community under the Palestine Mandate that gave rise to the State of Israel. The university produced the educators, doctors, and scientists who would staff the institutions and industries of this new nation. At HU's Rehovot campus near Tel Aviv, Palestinian Jews developed many of the agricultural techniques that would make the desert bloom--not just in Israel but throughout the Middle East.

1948-1967. During the 1948 War of Independence, the university's Mount Scopus campus became a tiny Israeli enclave surrounded by Jordanian-controlled territory. Given the impossibility of conducting classes in such an environment, a new main campus was built in the West Jerusalem neighborhood of Givat Ram in the early 1950s. A few years later, a medical school was established in yet another Jerusalem neighborhood, Ein Kerem.

1967-Present. The unification of Jerusalem after the 1967 Six-Day War permitted the revival of Mount Scopus as a vital component of the Hebrew University complex. Existing buildings were restored, and new ones were built. Its location overlooking the Old City made Mount Scopus the natural choice for the university's Rothberg International School, which opened its doors in 1971. By 1981 Mount Scopus was again the main campus of HU. The legacy of the past, however, would follow the university into the future. The new academic complex built during the years after the Six-Day War resembles a hilltop fortress--and indeed the design was selected to facilitate, if the need should arise, a multilevel defense of the campus by its students and faculty. Among of my first discoveries on campus was the realization that the rose gardens surrounding of this fortress included barbed-wire entanglements--a sadly practical defensive measure.

The Location

The physical location of the Mount Scopus campus is quite simply spectacular. Both the Hebrew word hatsofim and the Greek scopus can be loosely translated to mean "the place that looks over." In this case, what is "looked over" is Jerusalem's Old City--at least to the East. Speaking from personal experience, I can confirm that students are easily and frequently distracted by the glimmer of gold and silver emanating from the domed mosques on the summit of Mount Moriah.

Looking West from the university's magnificent amphitheater, the view focuses on a gentle ridge that forms a visible barrier between two climatological zones. Immediately below the treeline that follows the ridge is a stretch of barren terrain that serves as a base for one of the dwindling number of Bedouin bands that still wander the deserts of the Middle East.

As with most of Jerusalem, campus buildings are constructed of local rose-colored stone that settles comfortably into the surrounding landscape. The grounds include numerous gardens and a botanic park, the latter complete with the remains of ancient tombs.

Academic Standing

The Hebrew University of Jerusalem has become a world-class center of learning. It has achieved particular renown in areas associated with Biblical archaeology, Jewish religion and history, philosophy, Arabic language and literature, agriculture, and science-based technologies. Hebrew University grants about 30% of the Ph.D.'s earned in Israel each year, including more than three-fourths of the Ph.D.'s earned in the humanities and social sciences. Through its regular academic programs and the programs offered by the Rothberg International School, the university has attracted students from around the globe. Its students come with a variety of goals: to explore their own heritage, to learn about and experience the history and culture of the region, and to study the technologies that support the new global economy. The university's Zionist founders would surely be proud.

- BawBaw/DAnneCClose

When Pope John Paul II visited and prayed at Yad Vashem, Israel's memorial to the victims of the Holocaust, he spoke eloquently about his personal sorrow and the Catholic Church's sorrow over the tragedies that have befallen the Jewish people throughout history. Predictably, Israeli responses…Read More

When Pope John Paul II visited and prayed at Yad Vashem, Israel's memorial to the victims of the Holocaust, he spoke eloquently about his personal sorrow and the Catholic Church's sorrow over the tragedies that have befallen the Jewish people throughout history.

Predictably, Israeli responses to the Pope's visit varied considerably. Some Israelis regarded the pontiff's presence in Israel and his expressions of concern about the Holocaust as much too little far too late. Nonetheless, most expressed appreciation for this visit to Jerusalem and for the Pope's outright rejection of Christian antisemitism. Needless to say, most Israelis would have liked to hear John Paul make a strong statement of regret about the Church's passivity during the Holocaust itself. And of course, many would have liked to hear him acknowledge Jerusalem as Israel's rightful capital.

Be all that as it may, John Paul's response to Yad Vashem appeared genuine enough, and Israelis were by and large appreciative. In fact, I noted that the Pope's response in many ways mirrored my own: For almost any thinking, feeling human being, Yad Vashem evokes an overwhelming sense of sorrow.

Yad Vashem consists of many elements, each designed with a specific purpose (or set of purposes) in mind. As a whole, it constitutes a powerful illustration that sorrow is not a monodimensional emotion; rather, it is multifaceted and extremely complex. Accordingly, the 45-acre Yad Vashem site on Jerusalem's Mt. Herzl includes a library, archive depository, and resource center as well as a number of gardens, exhibition halls, and monuments. Yad Vashem is not simply "a museum."

The International School of Holocaust Studies and the International Institute of Holocaust Research are both centered at Yad Vashem. Together they provide a practical basis for ensuring that the Holocaust, with all its horrors and injustices, is remembered by future generations. These two elements of Yad Vashem provide classrooms and educators that currently reach about 200,000 participants each year, and they support an international program of research, conferences, and publication related to the Holocaust.

After passing the dramatic 6-branched candelabra near the entrance of the site, the visitor finds that Yad Vashem includes a series of moving exhibits and monuments, including the Hall of Remembrance with its eternal flame; the Hall of Names, which provides memorials to individual victims; the Children's Memorial, honoring the slaughtered innocents; the Pillar of Heroism, commemorating the valor of those fought back; the Garden of the Righteous and the Avenue of the Righteous, honoring Righteous Gentiles who risked their own safety to help the helpless; and the Valley of Communities, created in memory of a lost way of life for European Jews.

Each of these memorials (one hesitates to label them "attractions") offers its own unique testimony to the vitality of the human spirit as well as to the consequences of prejudice and evil. Indeed, if one leaves Yad Vashem only in sorrow, then much of the point of this unique place will have been lost. Part of the explanation for the overwhelming impact of Yad Vashem involves its ability to touch so many seemingly conflicting responses: despair and hope, grief and rejoicing, death and rebirth. Taken as a whole, Yad Vashem's key mission is remembrance. It challenges visitors to remember the best and the worst of the human condition and to carry that knowledge forward toward building a better, more just future for all the children of Earth.

Yad Vashem's exhibits and memorials are open to the public Sunday through Wednesday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.; Thursday, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.; and Friday and holiday eves, 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. Admission is free, and English-speaking guides are available. For further information on specific aspects of the Yad Vashem complex, visit the web site managed by The Holocaust Martyrs' and Heroes' Remembrance Authority at http://www.yadvashem.org.

- BawBaw/DAnneC/LovesTravelClose

During a memorable summer 25 years years ago, I took up temporary residence in the ageless city of Jerusalem. As a student (somewhat older than most) in the summer program at Hebrew University on Mount Scopus, I quickly discovered that the ubiquitous Egged buses met…Read More

During a memorable summer 25 years years ago, I took up temporary residence in the ageless city of Jerusalem. As a student (somewhat older than most) in the summer program at Hebrew University on Mount Scopus, I quickly discovered that the ubiquitous Egged buses met all my needs for moving about the city--and beyond. The buses were cheap and easy, if not always dependable relative to their published timetables. Despite the buses' proclivity for running on "Jewish time," I thought nothing of hopping aboard for trips to Tel Aviv or Masada. As for Jerusalem itself, riding the buses gave me easy access to the Ben Yehuda pedestrian mall, to the University Campus at Givat Ram and back again to Mount Scopus, to Mount Zion and Mount Herzl, to Hadassah Hospital with its Chagall Windows, to the Knesset and the Israel Museum, to the Rockefeller Museum, and to restaurants and cinemas all over the city. Last but certainly not least, they took me to the gates of the Old City. The buses took me everywhere I could want--so long as it wasn't Shabbat. From just before sundown on Friday until just after sundown on Saturday, the buses did not (and do not) run.

Recent events have given me cause--not for the first, or probably the last, time--to revisit my bus-board experiences in Jerusalem. In quiet moments, vignettes from those journeys float past my inner eye. In a world that did not yet know the word intifada, there were still plenty of perils. We knew to be vigilant, to look for abandoned packages that might have deadly contents and to report anything and anyone that might be suspicious to the police or to uniformed soldiers. Despite this vigilance, we had what today seems an unparalleled innocence--a reality that did not yet include the searching of faces in the crowds to locate suicide bombers.

From one outing all those years ago, I can recall the image of a young Hasidic mother riding the bus with her child. Dressed modestly in a long skirt with a long-sleeved blouse, heavy stockings, and a head covering, the young woman beamed at her child, displaying obvious joy and a quiet pride. Against the backdrop of traffic and amid voices speaking many languages, she taught her son to count. I freely admit to eavesdropping shamelessly, smiling inside and out as I heard the boy's childish voice counting in Yiddish: ayhn, zvei, drei--projected in the high, clear, musical tones of a 3-year-old. That same child should now be about 28, a young man. He is likely either served his tour in the army, riding the buses as he moves between civilian and military roles. Or if he took a religious exemption, he still likely rides the buses on the way to work, study, and worship. Given that marriage often comes early in Hasidic families, he likely has children of his own. Whatever path that child in my memory took, he still probably rides the buses. He is routinely in danger--or perhaps he is already counted among the dead.

On another occasion, a chance encounter on the bus to King George Street found me seated next to a middle-aged woman from Zafat. We had no common language, she and I, yet we somehow managed to communicate--a little Yiddish, a bit of Hebrew, a word of English, those ever-important gestures that are universally understood, photos of our children, and liberal does of laughter. By the time we reached King George Street, we had each learned a few details about the other: names, where we called home, marital and family status, children's names, and why we were in Jerusalem on that particular day. It seems she came often, for shopping and for visits with friends and family. I wonder, does she still make such trips? If she does, dare she connect with strangers as she did with me? Or did she perhaps come to Jerusalem on the wrong day and ride the wrong bus?

Then there were the bus drivers themselves. Most could be epitomized by the indigenous sabra cactus--tough and prickly on the outside, but soft and sweet at heart. The drivers I encountered often dominated the roadways like tyrants (or maniacs, depending on your perspective), determined to rule the roads they traveled and seldom giving way, particularly for another bus. Despite their crustiness, they could be counted on for patience with young mothers, elderly men and women who moved slowly or with difficulty, or tourists not yet adept at making change in a strange currency. They brashly corrected misbehaving youngsters and extended their protection to weaker children against bullies by threatening the latter with promises to chat with mama, papa, or the rebbe. And I personally experienced bus drivers who took the time to provide directions and encouragement to a vaguely confused, middle-aged graduate student struggling to cope with what was largely an unfamiliar environment. Cantankerous and abrupt, they were rarely rude, often funny, and almost always helpful. As the routes I traveled more and more often became the routes traveled by suicide bombers, I wonder how many of the drivers I knew have joined the growing list of victims.

Fridays on the buses of Jerusalem held a special gaiety. Housewives rode back and forth to butcher, baker--and possibly even to candlestick maker, though a trip to the open-air market at Mahaneh Yehuda or to a supermarket was far more likely. For these busy housewives, everything had to be in order for welcoming Shabbos, which of course included preparation of a special meal. Children and adults alike were in higher spirits. Greetings of "Shabbat Shalom" fill the air, peppering conversations between friends and strangers alike. My most compelling memories of riding Jerusalem's buses on Erev Shabbat (Sabbath Eve) are of young soldiers on their way home for the Friday evening meal. Dressed in green fatigues with weapons slung over their shoulders, they carried bright bouquets of flowers for their mothers, wives, and sweethearts--anticipating brief respites from their usual duties. Quite likely, some of those housewives were shopping at Mananeh Yehuda on the day a bomb exploded. Almost certainly, some of those soldiers died violently or took the lives of others during the endless rounds of violence that now define the Middle East.

Once so close and now so far away, peace continues to elude the Middle East. Violence begets violence, and there is the temptation by many onlookers to call a pox on all houses. Yet there can be no excuse for violence that stalks innocents simply for the sake of creating headlines. Whereas the motives of policymakers on all sides can be readily questioned, there can be no real equity between a reign of terror against civilians and the collateral effects of a military campaign. For all the sins of humanity that resulted in the establishment of Israel and the creation of the Palestinian identity, there can be no justification for random acts of murder conducted in restaurants and discos, at community centers and family celebrations, in markets and malls, or on board airplanes and buses filled with passengers conducting the business of everyday life. To suggest otherwise is truly the moral equivalent of validating the terrorists who crashed passenger planes into the World Trade Center. To suggest otherwise is to dishonor the victims by validating terror.

There is no justification that excuses violence that stalks innocent civilians simply for the sake of creating headlines. Terrorism has no honor.

- BawBaw/DAnneCClose

Based on my own memory, Ben Yehuda pedestrian mall in West Jerusalem has been the object of terror attacks--or attempted attacks thwarted--since the 1980s. One such incident occurred in December 2001, less than 3 months after the events of "9-11" here in the United States.…Read More

Based on my own memory, Ben Yehuda pedestrian mall in West Jerusalem has been the object of terror attacks--or attempted attacks thwarted--since the 1980s. One such incident occurred in December 2001, less than 3 months after the events of "9-11" here in the United States. Taken in this light, Ben Yehuda, at least for me, provides a symbol for some of the worst perils of living in the shadow of terror: Innocence and the innocent are destroyed. Peace is mind is shattered and restored piecemeal, but perhaps always a bit more precariously than it once had been.

Jerusalem's Ben Yehuda pedestrian area is not a mall in the modern American sense of the word. As with Steep Hill in Lincoln (England), High Street in Fort William (Scotland), the historic district of Weimar (Germany), and downtown Cape May (New Jersey, USA), Ben Yehuda is a long-established commercial area that has been largely closed to vehicular traffic. It provides an inviting location for typical urban pastimes such as shopping, cafe-ing, and gossiping with friends.

Ben Yehuda is a gathering place for the young and the young at heart. It is a place to find jewelry and sandals, costly oriental rugs and bargain-priced headscarves, ice cream cones and falafels, Israeli folk music and silver Sabbath candlesticks. It is a place for strolling along at an easy pace, for window shopping, for bending to examine inexpensive sketches lain out on the pavement, and for sipping Turkish coffee or cafe latte at outdoor tables. It is a place of innocent pleasures--or at least it should be. Nonetheless, early one Saturday evening (Jerusalem time) in December 2001, Ben Yehuda became a place of terror and murder.

Saturday in Jerusalem is a day of rest, contemplation, and worship. Shops are closed and buses do not run. It's a time for home and family. But since the Jewish day starts at sunset rather than at midnight, Saturday night is no longer the Sabbath. It is instead a time for socializing, dinner out, merrymaking, movies, and evening walks. For young people, it is a time for "hanging" with other young people--like Saturday night in any major European or American city. And for young Jerusalemites, Ben Yehuda is a favorite meeting place--both as a destination in and of itself and as a place to go until groups of friends decide what to do next. Ben Yehuda is crowded on Saturday night, thus making it a perfect target for terrorists who care only about how much carnage they can cause.

I learned about living in the shadow of terror while taking a graduate course in history at Hebrew University. Those were the days before suicide bombers became commonplace. Instead, bombs were simply left as unattended packages on sidewalks and in buses. Children learned at an early age not to touch, but rather to call a policeman or soldier to examine any suspicious parcel. As for me, all too quickly I found that armed and uniformed soldiers on the streets of Jerusalem seemed both ordinary and reassuring. Submitting to searches of my purse and backpack at public events became routine. Vigilance evolved from a virtue to an obligation.

On a hot August afternoon in 1985, as I browsed the shops in Ben Yehuda, a fellow shopper discovered one of those ubiquitous abandoned packages. Within minutes police had cordoned off the immediate area; those of us at the scene were guided back to a safer distance; and a special unit wearing protective gear arrived to disarm and dispose of the threat. In this particular instance, the package was not a bomb, no explosion occurred, and no casualties resulted. Still, we all recognized the potential for harm, and for a time on that hot August afternoon, the sense of oppression had nothing to do with the summer heat.

In December 2001, the crowd in Ben Yehuda was not so lucky. Children died and parents were left to grieve. Other children were gravely wounded. Blood stained the pavement. Young people seeking a Saturday night's reprieve from living in the shadow of terror instead found themselves face to face with their worst nightmare. Terror came out of the shadows.

A friend in Jerusalem told me that despite their long experience with such events, Jerusalemites were stunned. They were not so much angry as they were profoundly saddened. Where and when will all this terror and loss be brought to an end?--for them and for the Palestinians? The only immediate answers they have in recent years have included the expectation of still more terror and the determination to somehow carry on without losing too much of themselves in the process. Even at a distance, there seem to be more lessons to learn from Israel.

How could I know that all these lessons about living in the shadow of terror would someday prove so useful here in the United States? Here in post-9-11 America--in my Washington-area backyard--the targets of terror may differ, but the victims are essentially the same: innocence and the innocent are almost always in the front ranks.

Now we are all Israelis.
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