When we decided to spend a few days in Cornwall, we didn’t make a conscious decision to stay in Penzance. We wanted a reasonably priced guest house that had parking on site or nearby, and about four months prior to our departure I found four…Read More

When we decided to spend a few days in Cornwall, we didn’t make a conscious decision to stay in Penzance. We wanted a reasonably priced guest house that had parking on site or nearby, and about four months prior to our departure I found four places that fitted the bill. My son’s partner picked two of them, one in St Ives and one in Penzance, but when I returned to their websites the St Ives guest house no longer had vacancies. I booked the guest house in Penzance, and as it turned out we were very pleased that we stayed there.

Penzance is a town situated on the south coast of Cornwall; it’s not as trendy or fashionable as St Ives, retaining something of a traditional air. Whether you travel by road or rail, you are likely to approach it from the east and will catch sight of one of the area’s major attractions, St Michael’s Mount, just before you reach Penzance. The road passes through the eastern outskirts of the town where, fortunately, the supermarkets and fast food outlets appear to be situated. Our guest house, like many others, was on Alexandra Road, and to get to it we had to pass through the town centre with its imposing domed building that houses Lloyd’s bank and its nucleus filled with small shops and eateries.

The proprietress of the Dunedin Guest House where we stayed explained to us on our arrival that we could take a shortcut through Penlee Gardens to get to the town centre; it was only a few minutes’ walk and proved to be a very pleasant one. Penlee Gardens has tennis courts, a garden of remembrance and even a small outdoor theatre as well as an expanse of grass with plenty of trees and flowers to admire. We then turned away from the shops and in less than five minutes were on the promenade with its screaming seagulls. To the west we could see the fishing port of Newlyn, and to the east we were able to feast our eyes again on St Michael’s Mount. Penzance has an outdoor pool on the beach that seemed to be popular with families, and a notice announced that kayaking was a new attraction there too.

Penzance proved to be an ideal base from which to explore the south-western tip of Cornwall. It is only three miles along the coastal road to Marazion, a small market town from whose beach there is access along a causeway to St Michael’s Mount. We drove there late on our first afternoon and found a large car park by the shore. Unfortunately we were just too late to walk out to the Mount, as the tide was just turning and the causeway would soon be submerged. We went to have a bite to eat on the terrace of the Godolphin Arms, from where there is a superb view of the Mount. On our last morning we toyed with the idea of taking the boat trip out to the Mount as the tide was high, but sadly there was a strong wind and no boats were sailing that day. At low tide, however, Marazion beach is an ideal place for children to build sandcastles and have space to run around on the sand.

Our second day saw us heading off to Porthcurno Bay and the Minack Theatre, which are only about eight miles from Penzance and well worth a visit. From there we continued to Land’s End, and it was only about half an hour’s drive back to our guest house. The third day we set off to St Ives which is on the northern coast but again only about half an hour by road. Seeing how difficult it was to drive around the narrow streets of St Ives and find a place to park made us particularly glad that we were staying in Penzance. After visiting Tate St Ives and the Barbara Hepworth Museum, I wandered down to the harbour and considered going for a drink in a cafe, but it was so crowded everywhere that I made a beeline back to Penzance. The two major galleries in St Ives left a lasting impression on me, but I also spent a delightful hour one afternoon at the Penlee House Gallery and Museum in Penzance, which had an exhibition of Dame Laura Knight’s paintings at the time. After returning home I was disappointed to discover that there is another gallery in Penzance, the Exchange on Princes Street, that I hadn’t found during my stay. It exhibits contemporary art and is linked to Newlyn Art Gallery. Entry to the Exchange is free, and it is free to Penlee House on Saturdays.

The proprietress of our guest house recommended two restaurants in Penzance to us, and one of these was the Navy Inn. This is actually a pub that serves food and is just off the promenade on Queen Street. We went there on our last evening in Penzance, and we all agreed that the fish we had was the best we had ever tasted, unsurprisingly perhaps as it was fresh fish from Newlyn. The desserts were wonderful too. The other recommendation was for the Meadery; we thought of going there for lunch on our final day but discovered that the restaurant didn’t open until 6pm. We had lunch at the Duke Street Cafe in Newlyn instead and had no regrets about our choice. On our first day we wanted something light for a late lunch and ventured into the tiny deli called The Cornish Hen in the centre of Penzance. I enjoyed my first taste of homity pie there, and their coffee is to be recommended too. Less successful was our visit to the Lavender Delicatessen, where the genuine Cornish pasties left a lot to be desired. On my return from St Ives I came across the Cappuccino Express where I resisted the temptation of a cream tea but had a delectable blueberry muffin with my cappuccino. Their sandwiches were reasonably priced and looked huge. I remembered that the only Penzance eatery mentioned in Harden’s Guide was the Honeypot Cafe, but unfortunately I didn’t discover its whereabouts until I was heading to catch my train home. It certainly looked to have an interesting menu.

Penzance town centre has an eclectic mix of shops where you can find anything from Tesco Express and the Co-op to pricey art and souvenir shops and tiny antique shops chock full of horse brasses and bric-a-brac. I needed a gift for my brother (as he was looking in on my cat) and found a beautiful ceramic lizard in a shop that sold handmade soap. There is a sizeable post office, at least two photographic shops, several pharmacies and even a cinema for those rainy days. The most unusual sight is the Egyptian House, which to me should have been called the Pharaonic House, with its spectacular facade.

Penzance has a railway station down by the harbour, and there is a car park nearby. Trains run to Plymouth and London Paddington as well as cities further north, and there is a branch line that runs along the picturesque coast to St Ives. The station has a cafe and a shop adjacent to a decent waiting room. The bus station is right beside it, and there are bus services to local towns and villages such as Marazion, Newlyn, Land’s End and St Ives. Long-distance bus and coach services run to and from Penzance. Several companies run sightseeing and fishing boat trips from Penzance harbour. For a trip with a difference, you could go by helicopter to the Scilly Isles, and there is also a ferry service to the isles.

I would definitely recommend Penzance as a base to stay in to explore the south-western peninsula of Cornwall. If you are looking for a guest house, the Dunedin is a good choice; if you are on a tight budget, Penzance Backpackers is on the same street. Penzance may seem a little old-fashioned compared to St Ives, but it is also relatively unspoilt, less crowded and easier to drive around. With attractions such as St Michael’s Mount, the Minack Theatre and Land’s End just a few miles away, its location is ideal. Newlyn is within walking distance and is well worth a visit if you are looking for unspoilt towns and villages. I would happily return to Penzance if I have another opportunity to visit Cornwall.

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One of the must-do things for any visitor to Cornwall (and, indeed, Britain in general) is to eat fish ‘n’ chips. Until recently it was considered a national dish, and rightly so, for, done well, there is nothing that quite matches it. However,…Read More

One of the must-do things for any visitor to Cornwall (and, indeed, Britain in general) is to eat fish ‘n’ chips. Until recently it was considered a national dish, and rightly so, for, done well, there is nothing that quite matches it. However, for the uninitiated, there are a few ‘rules’ to follow to ensure you get the best of the experience. So, in no particular order:


1. Eat them outside. Ideally, on a bench overlooking the sea or the harbour. Bonus points are awarded if you can watch the fishermen bringing in the ingredients or if a seagull pilfers one of your chips.

2. Salt and vinegar, and lots of them, are a must. Let’s face it, this is a meal your arteries are not going to thank you for, so there’s little point in worrying about your sodium levels. If your conscience really bites, you can always offset the damage with a nice brisk walk along the beach afterwards.

3. Plates and cutlery are an absolute no-no. Fish ‘n’ chips are at their very best when eaten out of a tightly wrapped newspaper parcel. Some places now offer a cardboard box which is less cumbersome but not quite as authentic, somehow. Obviously, you should eat the whole lot with your fingers and then surreptitiously wipe them on the back of your trousers (or a loved one’s jacket) but, if you feel you must show some decorum, then one of those little two pronged wooden forks is acceptable.

4. Always visit a ‘proper’ chip shop. These may also sell things like battered sausages and pasties, but they should NEVER offer other cuisines, like Chinese or Indian food. No, their focus should be solely on the crunchiest chips and the crispiest batter.

5. Check out the queue. If it’s stretching out the door and the fryers are constantly in action, then that’s a good sign. Sneak a peek at the contents of what other people have bought. The batter should be a deep, golden brown with a bubbled surface. The chips should be chunky and look like they’ve been cut by hand. If the batter looks anaemic or the chips look like French fries, then run a mile.

6. The absolute best fish ‘n’ chips will have been cooked in beef dripping. Again, your arteries may quiver at the thought but your taste buds will be in paroxysms of ecstasy, so it’s worth asking about this.

7. Never share. If you let one person beg a chip, pretty soon your entire stash will be gone. Chips are addictive and it’s a slippery slope from ‘being generous’ to ‘grieving over a vanished fish supper’. Don’t say I didn’t warn you…
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We had a free day in which we explored Newquay. We simply walked it although there is a land train that is a good option for the less fit. The town has a lot of history to it which is the kind of place we…Read More

We had a free day in which we explored Newquay. We simply walked it although there is a land train that is a good option for the less fit. The town has a lot of history to it which is the kind of place we enjoy.

Newquay used to be a fishing village. There has been a small harbour here since 1439 but it wasn't until 1770 that its importance as a commercial harbour took off. Richard Lomax, a speculator from London, had the vision to create an enclosed three acre harbour from which to ship mineral ore to the smelters in South Wales. Joseph Treffry, a mine owner bought the harbour and built the Newquay Railway connecting the harbour to the tramway high above the cliffs. Cables wound around a drum and powered by two winding engines, known as Whims hauled wagons through a tunnel up from the harbour.

Up to the early 20th century, the small fishing village was famous for pilchards. From a "Huer's Hut" above the harbour the Huer on seeing the distinctive ripple on the surface of the sea, known locally as 'the shirming' and the reddish purple hue just beneath the surface would shout down a megaphone-like trumpet "Hubba, Hubba," or "Heva, Heva," and this cry would spread throughout the locality, causing much excitement. Everyone would rush to the quay and to their boats, urged on all the while and guided by their Huer.

The Hut dating back to the 14th century is now a Grade 2 listed building. It appears that the hut may have been a Hermitage. While Newquay no longer has any involvement in pilchard fishing there are plenty of other fish to catch. The Harbour is still a working fishing harbour but is also home to pleasure boats and is a hive of bustling fishing trips. In season and out, there is a trip to suit the most ardent angler. Surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the North Cornwall Coast, Newquay is a fantastic place for fishing.

You may see out on the water during your holiday, six oared rowing boats either racing or practicing. Built of Cornish narrow leaf elm, 32 feet long with a beam of 4ft 10inches, Cornish Pilot Gig boats original use was as a pilot vessel in the 19th century. On sighting a large ship making its way to one of the major ports of Bristol, Manchester or Southampton, crews raced their gigs out to it. The winner got their pilot on-board to enable safe passage and receive the payment.

Gigs also served as one of the first shore-based lifeboats that went to vessels in distress, with recorded rescues extending as far as the late 17th century. Nowadays the sport of gig boat racing is growing in popularity with over 100 clubs, the majority being in Cornwall and the Isles of Scilly, however clubs also exist in Devon, Dorset, Wales and London. Internationally there are pilot gig clubs in France, the Netherlands, the Faroe Islands, Australia and the USA.

One of the town’s attractions is Tunnels Through Time or as it is now known Bucaneer’s Bay. This is popular with those into pirates and Cornish history. Situated at the top of a hill in St Michaels Road next to the church overlooking a car park, is the museum.

The tunnels feature famous stories of people such as Merlin, mermaids, pirates, smugglers and cavemen. Here we met Captain Calico Jack and his trusted wench Anne Bonny in a swashbuckling adventure in the heart of Newquay. Travelling through The Sunken Village of the Damned as the fiend kept jumping out at us and screaming my wife was like a jumping jack rabbit by the time we emerged from there.

Newquay has claimed the title of ‘UK Surf Capital’. I can’t say I have ever been into surfing but I do like to watch those that can. For those that cannot but would like to have a bash there are surfing lessons available. These are quite expensive but if it’s something you want to try it’s probably worth the money.

Newquay contains many arcades which provides fun for some and can pass an hour here or there especially if you get a rain shower and want to stay dry. There are seven miles of coastline with 11 beaches all different in their own way some offer excellent surfing conditions, others are suntraps for that beautiful tan whereas some are just fun for the kids. Fistral Beach is one of the most popular with surfers. It has many facilities such as a surf school, shop, toilets and café. It is a good place for families, couples and surfers. Protected by a lifeguard it is safe.

The newly built A30 makes Newquay an easy resort to reach by car. If you prefer, you can fly in. The local Airport has flights from Ireland (Cork, Dublin and Belfast), England (Leeds, Manchester, Bristol, London Stansted and London Gatwick) and Scotland (Edinburgh and Aberdeen). There is also a train station in the centre of Newquay close to the major hotels. National Express also provide a regular coach service from major cities over the UK, you may need to change coaches near Plymouth or Exeter but several services enter Newquay daily.

Newquay is a great place to go whether there is group wanting to celebrate a hen or stag do, if you have children and fancy a short break, if you have just got married and want a cheap honeymoon or if you just want a break away from urban life.
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On our second and last day in Cornwall, we went to the Lanhydrock stately house near Bodmin. It dates back to the 1600s though they had a fire in the 1800s so most of it has been rebuilt and redecorated. Luckily they saved quite a…Read More

On our second and last day in Cornwall, we went to the Lanhydrock stately house near Bodmin. It dates back to the 1600s though they had a fire in the 1800s so most of it has been rebuilt and redecorated. Luckily they saved quite a lot of what was in the house so there are some nearly 400 year old furniture and antiques in it. It was owned and lived in by the same family for most of that time until 1969 and still has that lived in feel to it.The Great Hall is still the original 1600s room with a full plaster carved ceiling of the stories of Genesis. It's quite something to see! You get a very good idea of how people, both the upstairs and the downstairs staff lived in Victorian times. We both really loved it. There are extensive gardens and wooded paths too that you can enjoy.

We went to the town of Lostwithiel after that, on the recommendation of Nigel, our host at the Pendragon. It's a pretty little place with an old church. We went in there to find it filled with floral arrangements for a floral festival raising money for a hospice and the church. Many businesses and organizations sponsored an arrangement which were all gorgeous and had little adornments that reflected the business. for instance, one for the fire safety and rescue people had a yellow hard hat. The drugstore/chemist had a microscope and little glass antique medicine bottles. Outside there was a table with tea and cake set out so we sat down and had a cuppa and a piece of cake for a nominal price since the sun had temporarily come out. The weather wasn't overly great today.

Close to there is a ruin of a round castle called Restormel. We had a look around there under grey skies. It used to be a stronghold for Edward the Black Prince and apparently saw action during the English Civil War. There are some good views of the valleys around it from the grounds and better views from up on the castle walls.

Our last destination of the day was the old seaside town of Fowey (pronounced Foy). It's another hilly town with narrow lanes that weren't really made for cars. We found a parking lot on the edge of the town near a ferry that goes across the river to another little town, Mevagissey i think. We'd probably have gone over if we'd been there earlier in the day, which we might have been had we skipped the castle, but again, it was mid afternoon by the time we got there. There were lots of whitewashed or painted cottages with cute names like 'Baggywrinkle'. Unfortunately trying to find somewhere for lunch was more difficult than we thought it would be. It's about 3 o'clock and it turns out most of the pubs stop serving food at 2:30 though later in summer they will serve all day. An artist set up on the little square at the waterfront was trying to be helpful suggesting places to eat and he was not impressed that his town would be so rude as to stop serving food in practically the middle of the day! Well, the pubs at least, where you usually find the best food! We finally found a restaurant that was open and had a pretty good meal there.

We looked in a few of the shops and took a mini bus they have that goes from the centre square to the parking lots. There were only two others waiting for the bus when we were, but when it arrived, all these people came out of nowhere including someone with his elderly mother in a wheelchair! They had been parked at another parking lot way up a very steep hill. We all squeezed in and we made it back to the car in one piece. I don't know how buddy thought he was going to manage the wheelchair up that hill so it's a good thing he didn't have to!

We got back to the hotel about 4:30, much more reasonable than yesterday. Our lunch was so late and so heavy that neither of us was going to be hungry. We'd had cream tea for dessert so I had wrapped up the second of two large scones home wtih me. Graham bought a sausage roll for later. We actually had a little nap and after having our bits of food, went to the bar in the hotel, it's an honesty bar where you write down what you take and it's added to your bill. They also have a cellar with a games room with a pool table so we took our drinks down there and played a few games. Which i lost, nothing unusual there ;)

On the way back north, we stopped over in Bath and met up with friends who came over from Bristol for lunch. I took G. to the Roman Baths after lunch along with one of the couple that we lunched with (the Mr. had to go back to work) I thought he'd like the Baths, as i did, but he thought they were a bit overpriced for what you get for 12£

We walked around a bit to see more of the architecture in the city centre like the Circus and the Royal Crescent, elegant Georgian terraces where the houses are now worth well over a million or more pounds! We were getting footsore and tired and decided to see if the hotel did food. It's a Holiday Inn express, and no they don't. wha? Rather than go looking for a pub or place, we thought just get sandwiches and take them back to the hotel room. But by this time the sandwich shops were closing! Aggh! We ended up with premade ones from the grocery story, Sainsbury's, along with some chips (crisps) and pop and took a quick taxi ride back. It's an early night for us after some tv, both worn out! We've done a lot of walking around this week!

En route back to Manchester, we stopped off at a friends' place in Little Malvern for a visit on the way back to Manchester on Saturday and got home finally about 4. We put over 950 miles on the car and almost as many on our feet, or so it feels! Time for a takeaway and a night in with the telly!Close

When we decided to do a road trip from Manchester to Cornwall, we decided it would be too much driving to go all that way without breaking up the journey. If we stopped over night part way south, we could take our time, stop…Read More

When we decided to do a road trip from Manchester to Cornwall, we decided it would be too much driving to go all that way without breaking up the journey. If we stopped over night part way south, we could take our time, stop and see things and have a look around the city where we were overnighting. Thus, the stop on the way down was the cathedral city of Wells.

We stayed overnight in a country B&B just outside Wells, the Beltane, which was a lovely small country place but close to the city. We got there in time to see the cathedral inside, at least, though had to scoot back to the car to re-pay and display. We didn't get to go into the Bishop's Palace but wandered around the garden and moat for a bit.

Wells is the smallest city in England because it has a cathedral (that gives it the right to be a city) and the cathedral is really nice. Loads of carving on the outside west front and a high vaulted ceiling inside with lovely old stained glass. There's also Vicar's Close, a very old street of houses that is still lived in so we also had a nosey around there too. I just love little places like that, and the architecture is just up my cobbled alley!

We were too late for the shops by this time so we found a restaurant in a building that used to be the city jail for a time. It's called the City Arms and the food was pretty good. We had steaks with lots of mushrooms and onions! Walking around again a bit more after we ate, admiring the old houses and shops and the market square which is in front of the Cathedral and Palace. There are two tall gates, one to the Cathedral which is called Penniless Porch where the poor used to beg and the other to the Bishop's Palace, called the Bishop's Eye. I'm willing to bet they shooed the beggars from that gate!

We drove across Somerset and north Devon along the north coastline. Very pretty drive that way with the Exmoor hills on one side and dramatic sea views on the other. We stopped in Cleeve Abbey to see the ruins of the abbey there and make friends with a horse that was grazing nearby and then drove through medieval Dunster but it was too busy to be bothered stopping.

We did stop at Lynmouth and Lynton, twin towns on the seaside a little further on. Lynmouth is right on the shore and Lynton is high up on a cliff over it, connected by a Victorian funicular rail car that goes up the side of the cliff in a couple of minutes. Yes, we went up and walked into the hilly town there to find somewhere for lunch. Found a nice pub called Queens Inn. We poked into a few shops but didn't stay too long as we still were only about half way to the hotel. Later we stopped at a hilltop visitor info centre for a wee break and some photos.

We stayed at the Pendragon Country House near Davidstow and Camelford in north Cornwall for a three night stay. It used to be a vicarage, dating to about 1871. It's beautiful, and they owners, Sharon and Nigel, have done it up in antiques all through out. Nigel is a cook and is amazing. We had dinner there the first night though they don't do it every night. It was presented like any posh restaurant you could go it and tasted out of this world. Breakfasts were good, too, more than just the standard continental or 'full Cornish', we had a menu to pick from in addition to the usual cereal, juice, toast, fruit and yogurt, most everything locally sourced. Breakfasts were absolutely amazing and our room was wonderful! We had a corner room overlooking views of Bodmin Moor.

The next day was a lovely sunny one and we went to the small harbour village of Boscastle in the morning. Nice views from the end of the harbour. Graham climbed up a path to see the outside of the sheltered harbour and then we walked back to the main reason we were there, the Witchcraft Museum! Awesome! It's small but packed with a lot of things to see. It talks about things like historical images of witches, persecution, curses, charms, symbols, healing women, stereotypes... all kinds of topics. Graham really loved it and bought a tshirt with a pentangle on it! We were surprised to find out that the owners of the museum get a few death threats each year.

Next stop, sort of, was a quick drive through Tintagel. We didn't plan on seeing the castle but i wanted to see the crooked old building that housed an old post office though that's not what is in there now. There were at least a half dozen busloads of tourists thronging about and the town itself was not that attracted, it's all geared to the tourists and the King Arthur connection. Places like that put me off, really.

Down along the *very narrow* country lanes, lined high with hedges so you don't see as much of the scenery as you think unless you're at the top of hills.We stopped at a little cove where there was a small beach called Mawgan Porth and had lunch at a pub across the way, the Merrymoor Inn. Graham enjoyed his huge 'Arnie' burger but my bowl of cream of mushroom soup was as thick as paste and my crab sandwich was just that, bread. Crab. nothing else. We walked on the beach a bit and then decided that we weren't going to have time to go all along the north shore of Cornwall in one day. I wanted to see the open air Minack theatre so we went over to the motorway and all the way down to the south coast to see that. Rowena Cade founded and created the theatre over several decades. It has rows of seats created by granite blocks with grass grown over for comfort! The stage is at the very bottom. It all overlooks the sea and a wide beach to one side. There are lovely gardens outside the theatre and the theatre itself is strewn with little patches of flowers. It would be amazing to see a performance there but it would be open to the elements for sure.

Back up the motorway to St. Ives where we managed to get through the narrow streets to a car park on the pier. St. Ives is a seaside town well known for being a centre for artists and craftspeople.Unfortunately we were there too late for the shops, again, but we walked around the place around streets too narrow to be actual street though barely wide enough to get a car down them. Just. We finally decided on a pub on the water front to have dinner and tried to get back out of the city but the GPS kept wanting to send us back into the warren of lanes. We finally found the way out!

We drove into the Land's End parking lot which normally costs you 3 pounds before you can go hike down to the actual land's end or go through a big tacky complex of arcades, exhibitions and probably an overpriced cafe and pub. That's another tatty, tacky place and I only stopped there to take a photo of the coast from the parking lot to say i'd been there. We followed the coast for a bit then took the motorway back up to the hotel and didn't get there until nearly 9:30. Too long a day to do something like that again. Will have to rethink our idea of how much we can fit in for a day!Close

It wasn't until I began writing these journals of my time in Cornwall and Devon that I realized just how fundamental the gastronomical aspects of the trip were. Some trips are obviously meant to be garnished with the lovely local foods, but it wasn't until…Read More

It wasn't until I began writing these journals of my time in Cornwall and Devon that I realized just how fundamental the gastronomical aspects of the trip were. Some trips are obviously meant to be garnished with the lovely local foods, but it wasn't until I had spent some time in the southwest of England that I realized that this was one of those trips.

Cream tea, much like the real ale and the Cornish pasty is something you will be excitedly encouraged to try by locals pretty much as soon as you arrive. Tell them you've never had a cream tea (and possibly don't know what it is) and you may well be invited right back to rectify this horrible mishap immediately. Or at the very least you will be pointed to the best place to do so for yourself.

Oddly, however, unless you ask - they may not think to explain exactly what a cream tea is. I admit, I was completely in the dark about the experience I was about to undertake when I was served my first cream tea (in Devon rather than Cornwall as it turns out - but I'll get to that in a moment)

Having lived in the UK for some time, I was aware that 'tea' is often a relative term and can refer to anything from the drink itself to dinner time, of the food of dinner itself. It can be confusing for a new comer, so when the term 'cream tea' popped up - I was prepared for it to be totally unexpected.

And in many ways, it kind of was.
If you go to a small tea house or cafe or bakery and order cream tea - you may be surprised when you don't get a tea with cream in it. What you will likely get instead is a little mini meal of scones, clotted cream and jam served with milky tea.

It is important to mention at this point that - like many things that straddle the Cornish and Devon border - there is a bit of a regional push and pull about which is the best or correct way to have your cream tea. Though I believe the institution actually originated in Devon, those in Cornwall have their own way of doing it which they steadfastly stand by - and I will leave it up to you to decide which method you prefer.

Those in Devon will cut the warm scone in half and cover each half heavily ( you wonder instantly how any of them are still alive) with clotted cream and then smother that with strawberry or raspberry jam.
In Cornwall, you but the jam on first, and then cover it with the thick Cornish clotted cream.

This dispute is the thing of legends - and though it may seem silly, I suspect even you will taste a difference in the 'tea' depending on which sweet topping you put on first.

For me personally - not being overly keen on sweets - this one cream tea was enough to last me for months. The richness of this is unparalleled, and if you eat it with the locals you may watch open mouthed as they pile as much thick cream and jam on their scone as it can possibly hold. (and occasionally I've even seen them include butter first - although traditionally this is not correct)

All the same - it's a small part of the culture I recommend you try - if for no other reason than to say that you have. And the next time you hear some one mention 'cream tea' you can wryly smile to yourself and know that you know just what they are referring to.Close

While you will be missing out on a key aspect of the Cornish experience if you don't sample some of the local Real Ales, you will certainly be missing a vital component of any Cornish trip, if you don't spend a great deal of…Read More

While you will be missing out on a key aspect of the Cornish experience if you don't sample some of the local Real Ales, you will certainly be missing a vital component of any Cornish trip, if you don't spend a great deal of time gorging on the infamous, glorious, Cornish pasty.

I should perhaps begin by explaining the pronunciation of the word. I'm sure it looks simple, but you would be astonished by how many uncertain variations make their way to the ordering counter. And though any local Brit will seem utterly confused by the need to clarify - to save you the uncertainty or embarrassment in making this small error, I'll clarify it now.
It's pronounced 'paasty. The 'a' is a short vowel sound. So you don't pronounce it as if were 'pastry', but rather as if it were 'patty'

That being explained (I had to correct a friend of mine recently who kept enthusing about the pay-stee he had when he was here last after no one here was quite sure what he was referring to) go out and try as many as you can. Seriously. They are glorious.

Meat pies are something that Britain in general is good for, and even though they can't seem to do much in the way of sweet fruit pies (don't even look for one, just wait and have one when you get back home) they are the master of all things meat and pastry related. And nowhere do you get to enjoy that with more zeal than in Cornwall.

To go to Cornwall and not have a pasty would be like going to Italy and not having a coffee or Italian ice cream, or to Maine and not having lobster. It's part of the deal - if you come to Cornwall, you must have a Cornish pasty - with a real ale if at all possible.

There are no end to the places you can find these, often in bakeries which specialize in them, but also in pubs and restaurants. Each place does them a little differently, but after years of only trying the Scottish rendition of the Cornish pasty, I had no idea what a treat I was in for by tasting the real thing.

Pasties are often quite large, one will almost certainly fill you up, even if you are a big eater for any lunch of mid day meal. They are different types of filling, often with meat but also vegetarian versions in a thick, flaky pastry wrap. They are heaven.
Steak and ale is arguably the most well known, but don't stop there. Try anything you can, and try the unusual ones as well. I had one that was a Moroccan curry that was out of this world, as well as a steak and Stilton which I still dream about to this day.

If you're in the southeast, or Plymouth and can't make it out to Cornwall, pop down to the Barbican Harbour area of Plymouth and check out one of the many little pasty bakeries, each of which do pasties which are the stuff of dreams.
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There are certain things in travel and in the world that are simply made profoundly better by slowing down and enjoying them with whatever the local beverage or culinary delight is. In Cornwall, it's real ales. The term ' real ale' is something you'll…Read More

There are certain things in travel and in the world that are simply made profoundly better by slowing down and enjoying them with whatever the local beverage or culinary delight is.

In Cornwall, it's real ales.

The term ' real ale' is something you'll hear almost immediately when you arrive in the southwest of England - especially if you know or speak to the locals and ask for advice on where to go and what to do. At some point very early on someone will undoubtedly recommend that you go to a CAMRA pub to sample the brew, or that you must try so-and-so's real ales.

It's just a fundamental part of the Cornish experience, and one you should most definitely partake in. Even if you're not much of a beer drinker, this is the excellent time to give it a try. There are a vast selection of ales of all different types and flavours in Cornwall and Devon, and you may just find one that tickles your taste buds.
Remember in most pubs in Britain you can order a half pint rather than a pint if you're just looking to sample or aren't accustomed to the heavier beer and higher alcohol content on this side of the pond. (Do be aware of this before you start, it sometimes takes a while to get used to how much stronger the beers can be in Europe than North America)

The term 'real ale' itself may not always be the easiest to grasp. I spent several months in Plymouth tasting a great number of these before I discerned exactly what the distinction was between them and a normal beer or ale.
Real ale is a term used to refer to ales that are traditionally brewed in the old style, usually by the local pub itself.

There's quite a lot of technical fermentation information which differentiates between real ale and 'keg' beer which I won't go into here but that you may like to look into if you're interested, but the basic gist is that the old style involves a still 'living' fermenting ale which needs to be carefully minded by the pub to maintain it's temperature, etc for the best possible flavour. The newer process involves a more sterile version which is lacking in the depth of flavour that you can get from a traditional ale.

This process was in danger of being lost entirely when the CAMRA pub (campaign for real ale) organisation began in the 1970s. They're motivation has been to preserve this way of brewing and selling ales, and in certain places in the UK like Cornwall, it's become a huge marker for where to go when you want really good beer. The locals proudly have their favourite CAMRA pubs they will recommend to you if you ask - and as each one is so different, I highly recommend you try several.

For more information on Real Ales, or CAMRA - check out the websites:

http://www.camra.org.uk/home.aspx

and for lists of local camra pubs, go to:

http://www.realalepubs.co.uk/search.aspClose

I march on, knowing that in a couple of hours, my trip will be over. I have mixed sentiments really; my feet are a little weary and my shoulders ache a bit from the rucksack. It’s a bit cold too on this last leg but…Read More

I march on, knowing that in a couple of hours, my trip will be over. I have mixed sentiments really; my feet are a little weary and my shoulders ache a bit from the rucksack. It’s a bit cold too on this last leg but I don’t want to rush and undo the relaxation and well-being that I’ve felt for nearly three days. Then, as I always do, I look on the bright side; I’ve visited some of my favourite places, met some old friends, had the sea and clouds as companions for the entire time, bumped into some unexpected wildlife, and found some “soul food” by seeing my childrens’ place of birth, where they were christened, and where they played as youngsters. I then drop back a further generation and recall the places I’ve seen that meant so much to me as a child, wonderful memories that can never be erased.
Looe is ahead so onwards I go and before long, I round the headland past St George’s Island and see the familiar sight of the Banjo Pier beneath me. Journey’s end!


Looe is one of the busiest resorts in Cornwall. The town undergoes a metamorphosis in April from being a sleepy, fishing town to that of a full blooded resort replete with a plethora of bars, restaurants, amusement arcades, boat trips, cafes, ice cream parlours, and gift shops. Whilst not to everyone’s taste, in my opinion to visit the town after the influx of visitors is to see it at its best, particularly on a cool November afternoon.

The town is split into two with the 7-arched medieval river bridge providing the link between the two halves. East Looe is the brasher, noisier side and is a maze of tiny streets and alleys where many of the best restaurants are to be found. The East side also boasts the superb beach is which, at low tide, stretches away for 200 yards or more to the surf line and forms a lovely golden crescent which is meticulously cleaned every day by the local council.

West Looe is somewhat more peaceful, with just a handful of pubs and restaurants, a few back streets that wind their way up the backdrop of steep hills, and a totally different feel from her rowdy sister across the river. Follow the road out to Hannafore where you are treated to the sight of Looe Island, sitting a mile or so offshore and now home to a nature reserve.

One definite highlight that many visitors choose to enjoy is the scenic train ride from Looe station to Liskeard, a ride of only 6-7 miles but reputedly one of the most beautiful anywhere in the UK as the line follows the river up through the wooded valley of the Looe River.

Fishing has always played a vital role in the town’s economy and today, it has the second busiest wholesale fish market in Cornwall behind Newlyn. The town’s fleet of trawlers still bring in many species such as sole, mackeral, turbot, monkfish, cod and haddock as well as shellfish such as prawns, crabs and lobsters, many of which will wind up on the menus of the local restaurants that evening.

Well, that’s it, I’ve so enjoyed my hike but from now on, the train will take the strain. I wander along the main street towards the Globe pub where I’ll just about have time for a quick one before the train leaves for Liskeard where I’ll connect with the main line back to Chippenham. Bye bye Cornwall, I've had a lovely time but then, I always do.....
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I take the steep coastal pathway up the Warren which follows the cliffs that will lead me to my penultimate port-of-call, Talland Bay. Talland has a special place in my heart too for both my daughters were christened in the tiny church of St…Read More

I take the steep coastal pathway up the Warren which follows the cliffs that will lead me to my penultimate port-of-call, Talland Bay. Talland has a special place in my heart too for both my daughters were christened in the tiny church of St Tallan, one of Polperro’s two parish churches. It’s about 75 minutes walk from Polperro along what at times can be a very muddy and slippery pathway for many of the locals use it for walking their dogs or simply for an invigorating stroll.

Once again, the sea is to my right and I see a couple of fishing boats approaching the entrance to Polperro harbour. Myriad gulls are wheeling around the sterns of the craft in a frenzy as the fishermen will have already started to gut the catch en-route home. The guts are chucked over the side where they are gratefully and greedily devoured by the scavengers.

I walk on, amazed that in three days, I haven’t managed a soaking much to my relief although it has certainly threatened at times. A fellow walker approaches from the other direction and we pause to chat for a minute; he is from London and has never been to Polperro. I tell him what a treat he is in for and impart some local knowledge so that he knows where to get a cheap B & B for the night, as well as a decent beer and some good food.

I march on and soon, Talland Bay comes into sight. It isn’t that much larger than Polkerris but is a straggly village that sits to the top on either side of the beach here. More memories – in the summer we used to have a few drinks in Polperro then drive down the lanes to Talland to set up a barbecue on the shingly beach. After eating we would, somewhat foolishly upon reflection, take a dip in the crystal-clear waters which was a surefire way to sober up.

I follow the lane into the village because I haven’t revisited the church since my younger daughter was christened here in 1983. The church of St Tallan is large for such a small village and is of a curious design. It dates to Saxon times with a bell tower somewhat removed from the main body of the church and is joined to the latter via a small portico. St Tallan was one of the many holy saints that landed in Cornwall in the 8th and 9th centuries where they taught Christianity and founded many of the churches.

That’s it for Talland – no shops, no school, no post office, no pub – for any of these you’ll need to head either way to Polperro or Looe. Even the little car park on the beach is fenced off today with the accompanying ice cream stall looking somewhat the worse for wear.

I leave Talland on the last leg of my hike – the 4 miles to West Looe and journey’s end.
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