It is difficult to leave Ghent without mentioning Sint-Niklaaskerk and Sint-Baafskathedral (St. Nicholas Church and St. Bavo's Cathedral respectively). Both are very old with histories that are well worth reading.The two churches are within sight of each other, about 3 blocks apart. Sint-Niklaaskerk…Read More

It is difficult to leave Ghent without mentioning Sint-Niklaaskerk and Sint-Baafskathedral (St. Nicholas Church and St. Bavo's Cathedral respectively). Both are very old with histories that are well worth reading.

The two churches are within sight of each other, about 3 blocks apart. Sint-Niklaaskerk was built first, beginning in the 13th century and was the church of the trade unions (or "guilds"). The side altars of the church were built by each of the guilds and the church was a powerful meeting place (non-political, of course).

When I first entered the church I was struck by the amount of light present because from the outside I expected the opposite. The church is very bright even though it is Gothic. Other than tourists, there were people there praying or meditating in the quiet peacefulness, of this immense house of worship. As I found in Bruges, all the visitors to this church were wonderfully quiet and respectful, moving slowly throughout the church. There were no accidental flashes or slightly raised voices. Even the tour guides were able to speak in subdued tones.

Perhaps some of the serenity was reverence, and part was pure awe, but I have never experienced the feeling of absolute peace that I have experienced in Belgium, and I wasn't the only one. I had inadvertently stepped in front of a person taking a picture and later we happened to be leaving the church at the same time. I had heard the man talking to his wife inside and knew they were American, so I apologized for ruining his picture. We chatted about the church for a few minutes, and then he said, "You know, even though we're Jewish. I felt that I should put on a yarmulke." Later, I talked to a tour guide who said that the tourists in Belgium are mostly very reserved and respectful in all of the churches.

The interior of Sint-Niklaaskerk does inspire a certain amount of awe. The Scheldt-Gothic interior and vaulted ceilings are most impressive, as is the high altar with its Baroque theme of The Last Judgement which has survived the past forty years of renovation. Guaranteed a Do Not Miss attraction in Ghent.

Next, the second church and one of the most important cathedrals in Europe - Sint-Baafskathedral.


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I have written "glowing" Journals about both Bruges and Ghent. It is not because I can't make up my mind about which city I prefer. I prefer Ghent and I have been searching for comparisons between Bruges and Ghent for a few weeks…Read More

I have written "glowing" Journals about both Bruges and Ghent. It is not because I can't make up my mind about which city I prefer. I prefer Ghent and I have been searching for comparisons between Bruges and Ghent for a few weeks now. I was looking for quotes from other sources that felt the same way about the two cities as I do. I love Ghent, but I really, really like Bruges too, and I have been searching out the comparisons of others that put into words those few statements that have been escaping me. It is not that I am looking to justify my opinions, just to help explain them. I don't know what I have found, but I need to stop looking and get on to the next part of my life. I have spent entirely too much time searching for the words that keep evading me.

Bruges is just plain beautiful and is usually described that way. The city has a loveliness that is almost too perfect. Many visitors, both tourists and professional travel writers have called Bruges charming and I have used that term myself numerous times. Bruges is charming! The city is lovely, beautiful, tasteful, enchanting, captivating, and beguiling, at least it is to me, and to many others, and I can find many other superlative terms as well. It's just that... I don't know... there's just something... and I need help putting my finger on it. It is almost like seeing something so perfect that one tries to find something wrong with it. I mean, can anything be that perfect?

Playwright and writer Andrew Bennett said of Bruges, "The difference between Bruges and other cities is that in the latter you look about for the picturesque, while in Bruges, assailed on every side by the picturesque, you look curiously for the unpicturesque, and don't find it easily." That was written in 1896. In 1820, William Wordsworth wrote of Bruges, "... a deeper peace than in deserts found."

About a week ago I decided to stop searching for faults with Bruges, and look instead, for the strengths and assets of Ghent. Almost immediately I came across an almost perfect comment from another experienced traveler. The comment reads: Many people visiting Belgium bypass Gent in favor of Brugge and while I wouldn't recommend skipping either of these cities, I'd have to say that I'd give Gent a slight edge... Gent seemed more like a living, breathing city where the city actually seemed to still be alive after the sun goes down and the buses have long departed.*

Another comment that describes my feelings for Ghent comes from one of the major guide books that is one of my favorites: "Ghent remains a quintessentially Flemish city with a tourist industry - rather than the other way round - and if you find the tourists and tweeness of Bruges to be a tad overpowering, this is the place to decamp, just twenty minutes away by train."**

Those comments (and others) resonated with me and in rereading my previous journals I have written about the beauty of both cities (and they are both truly beautiful), but what separated them was the vitality and life I found in Ghent. Being such a university city, there is a liveliness to go along with the loveliness of Ghent. Because of the number of young folks mingling with population, the entire population seems to me to be more animated and energetic. At least, that is my impression. I live in a university city and spent time in many others, and I have observed the same phenomenon here and in the others as well. Youth in a community seems to lead to youthfulness throughout the community. I think that explains much of the difference between the two cities.

Please note that all comments are my own opinions and should do nothing to take away anything from Bruges, one of the truly magnificent and romantic cities of the world. It is my hope that Ghent will someday be included with Bruges as jewels of Belgium and of our wonderful planet.


* by dabs from her writing "A love affair begins...." on the Virtual Tourist website
** Rough Guide Directions - Bruges and Ghent written by Phil Lee, page 108


Note: Most of the photographs are identified on the lower part of the image, but it is necessary to view them in "Full" mode.Close

This Journal is dedicated to a man I never met, but wish I had. A man with whom I swapped emails only a couple of times, but wish I had swapped more. A man whose writings I truly enjoyed, but who will write…Read More

This Journal is dedicated to a man I never met, but wish I had. A man with whom I swapped emails only a couple of times, but wish I had swapped more. A man whose writings I truly enjoyed, but who will write no more. I only just learned of his untimely passing over a year ago. His name is Luc Van Elst and he wrote under the name "luchonda" on this site and on Virtual Tourist as well, and I urge readers to look to his writings to learn about Ghent - the real Ghent, and about Luc's world.

Luc wrote with a love for and a passion for his country, and about the city that was his home. He loved Ghent, raised his family there, and enjoyed all of the things that make that city a place to truly enjoy. In one of his writings (which I couldn't find again), Luc compared Bruges and Ghent, and the differences in volume of the two cities. He made the point that Ghent is far more quiet and relaxed with far fewer tourists, and he is exactly right, but more than that, his writings are filled with the emotion of life, and I heartily recommend them to others.

So here's to you, Luc - a man who loved his life, his family, his city, his country, and his world. We are, all of us, better for having known you or of you. Sail on, friend. May your winds be strong for your sails and soft for your journey.Close

I'm normally not this much of a perfectionist, but I feel that I have left much undone in my writing about Ghent. I can understand my love of Edinburgh and Nürnberg. I have spent much time in Edinburgh and I lived in Nürnberg for…Read More

I'm normally not this much of a perfectionist, but I feel that I have left much undone in my writing about Ghent. I can understand my love of Edinburgh and Nürnberg. I have spent much time in Edinburgh and I lived in Nürnberg for three years. I wish I could live in both of those cities for a couple of years each. I love Scottish history and I was able to see Nürnberg "rise from the ashes," so to speak. Ghent is different. I spent a couple of days there twice in the 1960's, seven days in 2005 (Ghent was my "base city" for Belgium), and a couple of days in 2011. I have not spent much time there at all.

I remember liking Belgium in the 60's. I liked everyplace new in the 60's. I especially liked the beer, wine, and girls (not necessarily in that order). There are a number of stories from that period that are better left untold, but I do have those memories and they are good memories (mostly). On my first visit to Belgium I traveled with a couple of buddies from the US Army and the second time with some German University students that I had met. Oddly enough, the subjects of those trips were the same. How about that?

Five or six years ago I was in Ghent for seven nights using the city as my base to visit Brussels, Bruges, and Antwerp as well as my base city. Ghent is central to those cities and I was able to stay in one spot. At the time, it cost €4.00 for a "senior" to travel anywhere in Belgium and back on the same day (this year it is €5.20, still a bargain). During those seven days I spent most of my nights in Ghent wandering the streets without a working camera. Perhaps having a camera stolen was a blessing because I was able to see the city at night without looking through the viewfinder. During the day I used a rented camera that had to be returned before 6:00 PM each evening. Consequently, I had to return each evening and saw none of the other three cities at night. If I had, I might still be there. As it turned out, I "saw" Ghent and enjoyed every minute of my time there.

Moving forward to 2011, I returned for just a short visit because I had a rail pass and a few extra days before I needed to be in Berlin. It was a long train ride from Nürnberg, Germany, but it was well worth it. Of course, with me, nothing ever goes perfectly. I was unable to get my new tripod into my pack so I planned to purchase a cheap one in Poland thinking that it would be less expensive there. Nope. I looked for a bargain tripod in every city and they were all too expensive (much more than in the US). So, as a result, every photo that I took on the trip to twelve cities was hand-held. Obviously, I had a few bad ones - like about 700! I did get some good ones though, and they'll be here in numbers. I am taking the time to ID each image with the city name (Ghent) and what I think it is. I'm not certain about a few of them.

For the photographer that lurks in all of us travelers, I'll include some information that I found to be kind of unique to Ghent. I'll also try to include some helpful information for all tourist groups, based on conversations I had with the different groups while I was there and from others I met in Berlin and Warsaw. I'll include hostelers, backpackers, young romantics, 2nd honeymooners, singles, couples, geezers (like me), tourists, and seasoned travelers (I talk to everyone I meet). I will not write anything negative because I found nothing negative. I won't write about first class travel because I have never done it and talked to very few who have. They tend to be in the more exclusive restaurants and hotels of which I have absolutely no experience (I still choose my hostels partially based on price and recommendation of other travelers). I hope that you will find the writing and information interesting and of value.


Note: I have tried to identify the photos as inconspicuously as possible on the lower part of the image, but it will probably be necessary to view them in "Full" mode to see the ID. Close

Ghent is another Belgian city that has magnificent lighting that makes the Old City come alive at night. Young people line the Graslei and the Korenlei and St. Micheal's Bridge becomes a very busy thoroughfare. The Friday Market Square is lined with restaurants…Read More

Ghent is another Belgian city that has magnificent lighting that makes the Old City come alive at night. Young people line the Graslei and the Korenlei and St. Micheal's Bridge becomes a very busy thoroughfare. The Friday Market Square is lined with restaurants and pubs, all of which are very crowded indeed. Tourists who are staying overnight in Ghent mix with locals at the restaurants and students and hostelers meet in the pubs and along the river and canals. While a few of the outside areas are brightly lit, most of the lighting inspires romance (for any age). Nights and evenings in Ghent are times to relax. Locals and tourists alike amble slowly through the streets and along the river and canals, some holding hands or arm in arm, appearing as though no one wishes to disturb the reverie. Like Bruges, it is magic.

If you are staying only one night and wish to wander through the old city, this is my suggested route. Ideally, this route would take a couple of nights if a few extended refreshment stops along the way were included. So while it is not a recommendation because relaxation is the operative word, it is doable. However... if you were to have a little extra time...

I would start at the rear of the Belfry (the Tourist Information Desk, "Infokantoor") is in the basement). From there you will be facing St-Baafskathedral which is beautifully lit from most angles. Walk down Kapittelsrtaat turning right and crossing past the front of the cathedral. Turn right at the corner and continue to the Belfry and then to St-Niklaaskerk. Then continue until you pass the "Old Post Office" on your right, cross St. Michael's Bridge and take the walkway on the right that leads under the bridge. You will then be on the Korenlei side of the Leie River looking across at the Graslei. Walk along the Korenlei while viewing the Graslei, then retrace your steps and recross the St Michael's Bridge. Turn left at the corner just past the Old Post Office, and find a spot to take a break. You haven't walked far, but you deserve a beer!

Continue on Korte Munt and turn left on Grasburg. Stopping in the middle, there are lovely views of either side of the bridge. Finish crossing the bridge and turn right continuing to Burgstraat where you will turn right and have a nice view of Het Gravensteen ("Castle of Counts"). Turn left at the corner for other good views of the castle. More good views are available if you continue up one block to Lievestraat, and turn left. The views will be on your left. Retrace your steps back to the entrance to the castle and turn left (Burgstraat becomes Bekelingestaat and then Kraanleistraat). Turn right at the bridge and enter the Vrijdagmarkt, which is wonderfully lit and filled with delightful places to stop. Take a break.

Leave the "Friday Market" on Kamerstraat and walk to Belfortstraat and turn right. Follow Belfortstraat to the starting point and have a beer!

Now you can truthfully say that you saw Ghent - well, most of it anyway. Cheers!


Note: Most of the photographs are identified on the lower part of the image, but it is necessary to view them in "Full" mode.
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I love Ghent! This Spring, 2011, I again found it to be a wonderful city, friendly and helpful, and even better than I remembered. I wish I could live there for a couple of years. I had a full and terrific day…Read More

I love Ghent! This Spring, 2011, I again found it to be a wonderful city, friendly and helpful, and even better than I remembered. I wish I could live there for a couple of years. I had a full and terrific day and evening, and a beautiful morning; met some super folks, and I wanted to tell people about it. First, though, I needed to do a little fact checking and I'm still looking.

I try not to bore readers with a travelogue that is nothing more than a regurgitation of information available online and in book stores. As a photographer I am visually oriented so it is natural for me to take and to use a lot of photographs. I become so much more interested in a place that I can see as opposed to reading a written description of the same location. My goal is to show other travelers what I have seen and experienced, and why a place interests me emotionally. I do not look for that which I find negative about a place; my goal is to give others a reason to visit a place. Consequently, I don't write about places which I have visited and not enjoyed. I remember Ghent as a very special place because of its' beauty, and because of the city's character and ambiance, and my delightful experiences there.

Back in 2006 (or 2005, whenever) and I was researching my Spring trip for that year, I fell into the trap of: if there isn't much information about the place, it must not be worth much time. I have since learned different. What others find land less interesting, I may find fascinating. I don't write about food and seldom write about restaurants because restaurants are too expensive for my travel budget. I eat to live, not live to eat, which that puts me in the minority among travelers.

My first visit to Belgium was in 1963, and there was a huge lack of information about the country available to military personnel, except that the beer was great and the Belgian girls were even better. All of that was true and I was fascinated by both.

Five years ago, and 42 years later, my interests had changed, but with the exception of Brussels and Bruges, Belgium was still kind of a second-class destination for American tourists (not European tourists). As the capital city of the European Union, Brussels enjoys an international reputation and lots of tourism which it deserves. Bruges is one of the most romantic cities in the world and is also big on the tourism map. In contrast, Ghent and Antwerp have surprisingly little information available in comparison to many other European cities half their size. I am still incredulous at the dearth of information available for both Antwerp and Ghent among other Belgian cities. My friends in Germany and Austria agree. They love Belgium.

When traveling, I usually transfer my images and make notes on my netbook at the end of each day. I carry a small pad of note paper during my walks. Then, when I get home, and start thinking about journals, I review my notes and do some fact-checking online, or in travel guides. I don't need much information, just enough for verification. I also need a photograph to make sure I have the right place stuck in my head. One of the reasons that I travel is to make photographs and I go overboard - the Spring, 2011 trip was almost 4,000. Even with the bad ones and duplicates, that's a lot of places to identify. It normally isn't a problem, and I haven't had any corrections submitted by readers, but Ghent has been tough because I am attempting to identify each image that I submit (hopefully it is a benefit for those who would rather look at photographs and skip over written comments).

Anyway, the problem is that travel guides usually have very few photographs. They are packed with information but short on pictures (one exception is the DK Eyewitness Travel Guides). Consequently, I have spent hours online attempting to make sure that the photograph descriptions are correct, but in many cases, I find descriptions, but few photographs. (I am so thankful that IgoUgo does not (yet, anyway) limit the number of photographs submitted. Thanks IgoUgo!)

There is a system that others use that I have tried in the past, and need to reassess. Every city or town has small tourist guides that are available for five euros or less. I pick them up at the local tourist information office basing my choice on the recommendations of the office personnel. These guides generally show photographs of sights with a small amount of history for each. They are a good idea for a couple of reasons. First, the attractions are pictured. Second, the guides give amateur photographers the best angle for a photograph. The last part of the system is to mail them home after visiting the town in pre-addressed shipping envelopes brought from home. (Don't carry a bunch of them around - they get heavy! Send them home!)

Finally, Ghent is one of my favorite cities. It has everything that interests me. It is a Medieval city, very old with lots of Gothic buildings, marvelous vaulted ceilings, magnificent art treasures, a population that is friendly and most helpful, and very tolerant of tourists asking the same questions. Arriving in Ghent is an emotional high for me and it seems to get better throughout my stay. There are new things around every corner and in every building, church or cathedral, municipal buildings from the 12th, 13th, and 14th centuries, museums that are all very interesting. There is all of that, but most importantly, Ghent is fun.


Note: Most of the photographs are identified on the lower part of the image, but it is necessary to view them in "Full" mode.
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So what's to see in Ghent? So what's not to see in Ghent? Ghent is a perfect city to illustrate what I mean when I travel. First though, what is there to see in Ghent? At the top of the…Read More

So what's to see in Ghent? So what's not to see in Ghent? Ghent is a perfect city to illustrate what I mean when I travel. First though, what is there to see in Ghent? At the top of the list is St-Baafskathedraal (St Bavos Cathedral); then St-Nicklaaskerk; St. Nicholas Church; next is the Stadhuis (Town Hall) in the Groentenmarkt (Main Square) and, of course, Gravensteen (the Castle of Counts, and you don't have to climb to get there), then the Belfort,(the belfry - with a lift and a great view). If you have only one day for Ghent, those would be my list for the daytime. Then would follow the Klein Begijnhof, and finally, the Graslei and Korenlei at night if you are really moving. You will see the major "sights" of Ghent, but you will get neither the "feel" of this marvelous city or the ambiance or mood that should be part of your experience, nor will you see the major museums. You will not see the "real" Ghent, but it will give you a good first impression. At least enough to make you want return.

The list of things worth visiting in Ghent is pretty much the same as every other place you visit with different looks and names, and, quite honestly, it can become long and tedious after a couple of weeks. Eventually one gets "museumed" or "cathedraled" out. When that happens, everything kind of merges and you miss the true beat of the place you're visiting. At that point it is time to stop and take a break for a day. Do only what you feel like doing. One day per week is what I usually do and it is rejuvenating. I suggest Sunday because other than tourist traps, most places are closed. The ones that are open are usually worth a browse. Also, Sunday is the best day to "people watch," which is both fun and relaxing. After church (Belgium is very Roman Catholic), watch the people wearing their "church clothes" strolling along the canal or having lunch on the Korenlei or Graslei. Become part of the throng that is out and enjoying the day. You can start a new week on Monday.

As I mentioned, Ghent is a perfect place to illustrate a couple of points that need clarifying. First, I am not trying to tell people how to travel. I’m sure that millions of people have their own systems to follow and are not looking for help. I am trying to explain what works for me and why it works. However, if you are trying to jam a couple of month's worth of sightseeing into two weeks, my system is definitely not for you. My approach does take time, quite a bit of it. Ghent needs some time.

Second, when I use the word "wander" or "wandering," I mean walking slowly, taking in a spot almost by osmosis – just allowing the mental picture to sink in with enough time to emotionally process the information. "Wandering" means following the little side streets or alley ways that can lead to wonderful experiences, highlight of a trip experiences. It means stopping for an ice cream cone or a glass of wine. Ghent is the perfect place to find a romantic corner bistro and just relax. Because Flanders is quite fluent in English, it is the perfect place to get lost on purpose.

Many tourists make lists of the important things to see. Following guide book recommendations, some even make-up a time schedule! Following a list like that guarantees that you will be totally exhausted after your "relaxing" European vacation. If your face is stuck in a map or a guide book, you will definitely most of the beauty of the city, town, or attraction that you are visiting. If you return home more tired than when you left, I wouldn't call the trip a vacation.

A word about guide books; they're all good, but some are better, in my opinion. If I want historical information about a place, Blue Guides are by far my favorite series. For most of Europe, used copies of all guide books are available on Amazon.com for next to nothing and if all you are looking for is a well-written historical book, old copies of the Blue Guides will serve you well and you won't mind zipping them apart. Also, these are my favorites; they may not be yours.

The DK Eyewitness series is great if you want lots of photographs and, I think, very good and concise information. Eyewitness Travel also has a Pocket Map & Guide series that is very helpful. Rick Steves books are well-written and he has a sense of humor. There are many great tips in his guides. Rough Guides are information laden and updated regularly. They are particularly useful for backpacking and publishing reliable information. Lonely Planet and Time Out are also among my favorites. These are a few that I read before and after a trip. During the trip I read a few pages that have "zipped" out of a number of guides including the Michelin Guides. I don't ever use guides for restaurants; I ask local or make my own meals in hostel kitchens. The Michelin Red Guides are the best. Blue Guides does not review restaurants.

Some readers may not understand the term "zipped." Most printing shops can "zip" or cut the spines off of your old guides (or new ones if you want) and drill holes in the pages for small notebooks of each destination of your trip. Remember that paper is heavy and it gets heavier when you are lugging it all over Europe. Because I am not interested in hotels or restaurants I eliminate those pages. A friend of mine goes one step farther. He has his books zipped and then scans the pages into his netbook. I also met a man this year who pulls the files to his cell phone. There are lots of ways of organizing.

So, what's to see in Ghent? It depends on how one wants to see it.


Note: Most of the photographs are identified on the lower part of the image, but it is necessary to view them in "Full" mode.
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In 2011, I finally returned to Ghent. I found exactly the same scene this year as I did six years ago, and it is that scene that I will try to describe in words and photographs (lots of both). The city held…Read More

In 2011, I finally returned to Ghent. I found exactly the same scene this year as I did six years ago, and it is that scene that I will try to describe in words and photographs (lots of both). The city held the same vibrancy, vitality, and, most importantly, the same emotional rejuvenation for me. First, some opinions and personal experiences...

It was close to the end of my month-long trip which took me from Bruges to Budapest and from Warsaw to Vienna. I had a day and a night in Ghent and then it was off to Berlin for three days, and then home. It was an ambitious itinerary and proved to be much more challenging than I expected, but it has also refocused me. Quite simply, I need to slow down, relearn "packing light" in this day of rechargeable everything electronic, and not be so ambitious in my travel plans. It's not just my age and physical condition, but rather, my entire approach. I need to understand again that there may be places that I don't get to. Each of us has a finite amount of time on this earth and while we shouldn't waste that time, we shouldn't rush along and miss the things that are truly important. For example, according to my formula (see Travel Experientially), Bruges, Ghent, and Antwerp should each be allotted three to four days and Brussels at least four days. (Because the cities are so close together, and travel time is negligible, I include travel time in my figures.)

Besides not allocating enough time for the places I went, I seemed to be in a hurry at every destination, and that goes against all of my normal habits. I don't know why it worked out the way that it did, but I felt as though I was just running out of gas. Part of the problem was over-planing and the other problem was trying to stick to the plan, knowing that it was the wrong approach. It all changed in Ghent. I don't know exactly why, but here's what happened.

After checking into the HI De Draecke Ghent hostel, I resisted the temptation to take a nap and decided to visit Gravensteen (Castle of Counts) which is only a couple of blocks away. The castle was closed for the afternoon because of renovations being made. So I walked down the Leie River on the Korenlei side to a good view of the Graslei, and the St. Michael's Bridge. I stopped to take a couple (I use the term loosely) of photographs, stopped at St. Nicholas Church - more photographs - and walked down to the Belfry. It was while I was admiring that 13th century structure, I overheard a woman speaking North American English and complaining about all of the overhead wires that supply electricity to the trams that run on rails all over the city. "This is terrible," she said. "Just look at all those wires that ruin the pictures. I wish I knew what to call this, this crap." "Environmental pollution," I suggested." "That's it, that IS it," she said emphatically, and dug into her purse for a pen and paper to write down the term. "I don't know where you're from," I said, "But at least these people can breathe the air in their cities." She gave me a mean look and walked away. A young couple had witnessed the exchange and gave me the "thumbs up" sign. The term "environmental pollution" is not original. I picked it up from an American tourist who said the same thing in Graz, Austria. I gave her the same answer with the same result.

That evening, at dusk, I was taking pictures of the young people (students) sitting along the "Graslei" (an area along the Leie River in front of Medieval guild houses where people sit and chat and drink beer and wine) when two young men came up to me and asked where I was from. I told them and it started what was eventually a two hour conversation about everything American - the good and the bad - politics in both countries and the EU (European Union). We eventually had about fifteen people in the group and it was wonderful. They picked my brain and I did the same of theirs. I found them to be untrusting of government - all governments. They were quite angry about the American Republican Party because they like President Obama. They noted that they (Belgium) were a small country in comparison to the US. Only one of the women had been to our country and described the US and "very huge." I said that Belgium is the size in area of our state of Maryland, which gave them some idea of the size of the US, but I could see that they still didn't grasp the size. I then told them that if I got in my car from where I live, I could drive for twenty, thirty and forty hours in different directions and still be in the US. That got their attention. I told them that I could drive those same hours and never leave English, which is part of the problem with Americans speaking a foreign language. Where would the average American go to practice Flemish?

After the first hour, a couple of the young men went out and got some beer and wine and the bottles were passed from person to person. I declined and explained that half a century ago I tried to drink Europe dry and it had an adverse effect on my life, so now I don't drink. One of the guys left and got me a Coke Zero. From then on it was all fun. We told some semi-off-color jokes back and forth and did a lot of laughing. They invited me to their homes the next time I was in Belgium and I reciprocated with an invitation to my home in the US, wherever it is at the time. I told them to make it soon though, or they might see me in an old age home. I gave one of the guys my email address and he emailed me the addresses of the Belgians folks. I felt great, and I reminded myself that that experience is what travel is all about. I can hardly wait to go back. It will be soon.

I didn't get all of the photographs I wanted, but I was richly rewarded in other ways. On my next visit I will make time to do both. Lesson learned.

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"Let us all raise our glasses and let's drink a toast to Ghent and her people that I like the most." It's a corny self-penned rhyme, but within the environs of this city one finds universities, marvelous cathedrals, wonderful art and museums, a couple…Read More

"Let us all raise our glasses and let's drink a toast to Ghent and her people that I like the most." It's a corny self-penned rhyme, but within the environs of this city one finds universities, marvelous cathedrals, wonderful art and museums, a couple of rivers and canals, old buildings, a beautiful Belfry, stunning roof lines, enticing small streets and alleys, restaurants of every cuisine, and even a castle that you don't have to climb a mountain to reach. In Ghent, life is good, especially for us travelers.

First, for any travelers going to Belgium, Do Not Miss Ghent!!! Resist the temptation to skip the city or spend minimal time there (like I have done - twice). The smallest of the four major cities of Flanders, it is small only in population. The sights of Medieval Ghent are many and beautiful and because the city survived pretty much unscathed from damage in WW II, the buildings that look like 14th century buildings really are. But what also sets Ghent apart is that it is Belgium's "University" town. There are as many students in the central city as there are residents (60,000 of each). Ghent, while it is known as the "City of Flowers," and the "City of Spires" is also the Belgian capital of education, and more importantly, it is also the absolute capitol of fun for traveling students of all nationalities. English is the universal language of the world's student population, and on any given sunny day the canal sides or riversides (Graslei and Korenlei) are lined with young people speaking many languages far into the night. The students infuse a palpable youthful excitement into all parts of the city.

Getting There and Staying there

Ghent is central to the other three major cities of Flanders (Brussels, Bruges, and Antwerp being the other three). Train time to the other three varies from 35 minutes to 55 minutes, which allows one to stay in Ghent and travel by train to the other cities, eliminating moves which take time (packing and unpacking, checking out and checking in, travel time, and unpacking again) and energy. Also, because I am a "senior," I prefer this system because for us "seniors," the train ticket is €5.20 return, but for others on a tight budget, it might be less expensive to move. It is certainly more work.

I prefer the Hosteling International HI De Draecke Ghent hostel in Ghent. For me, it's a super place. If you are not a member of Hosteling International (HI), there is an additional charge of €3.00 per night that is charged to non-members. It is not the cheapest place to stay, but its location two blocks from the Castle of Counts and just a few more to the Graslei and St. Michael's Bridge. The bunks are well made (actually quite comfortable, but you'll have to make and then strip your own bed) and there is excellent security. For HI members, it is about $30 per night (considering the current weakness of the dollar). It is more than convenient, and for me, worth the few extra euros. So much for the "business" part of the city.

Observations

This is the important part. Ghent is less romantic than Bruges and less spectacular than Brussels, but the city is no less remarkable and is far less touristed. Sint-Bavoskathedral can rank with any of the other major churches and cathedrals in Belgium, and there are beautiful scenes all over the city. Like Bruges, I have found the tourists in Ghent to be very well-behaved, even reverent in the churches, and like Bruges, very much appreciated by the local population. Ghent is a very friendly city to everyone - tourists and each other equally. To illustrate, a tourist was using a flash in one of the museums, and was asked very politely to discontinue the use of the flash. The tourist got angry, but the caretaker continued to explain why the use of flash is disallowed and what the ultraviolet light does to color pigments. The tourist stomped out, but surprisingly to me, was back in a very few minutes to apologize to the caretaker. My respect for both of them grew proportionately.

To sum up, Ghent is as great a destination as Bruges or Brussels, and you won't face the crowds of tourists. As a final note, a man in a pub told me the the best place in Belgium to drink beer is in Ghent. I'm not surprised. So, a toast to Ghent!

I am beginning all of my Belgium Journals with this "Overview." I think that Belgium and the other "Low" countries qualify for general statements because "the total country includes the sum of its' parts," and there are so many similarities. In this case…Read More

I am beginning all of my Belgium Journals with this "Overview." I think that Belgium and the other "Low" countries qualify for general statements because "the total country includes the sum of its' parts," and there are so many similarities. In this case the "sum" is Flanders.

Belgium may be a small country, but it is a very wealthy economic powerhouse that is all to often neglected by the tourism merchants. About the size of Maryland in the US, the country has two distinct sections: Flanders in the North and Wallonia in the South. Flanders is Flemish-speaking (very close to Dutch) while the language of Wallonia is French. Much of Belgium is also quite fluent in English as well as German and French, depending on the region. As part of the "Low Countries," (The Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg and the Northwest of France), much of the Flanders part of Belgium is just above sea level. The Wallonia area of Belgium is hilly in spots and mountainous in others, with some flat areas as well. The name "Netherlands" means "Low Countries by the Sea." Five different languages plus English are spoken.

I traveled to Belgium twice for a few days each during the early 60's, but my interests then were largely based on Belgian beer (some of the best in the world), and Belgian girls (even better than the beer). My interests have matured; I no longer drink alcohol and unfortunately, the girls look at me as a grandfather figure, which does seem a bit unfair.

I was last in Belgium in April, 2011. Prior to that I visited the country in 2005. In the first case, I made the mistake of putting Belgium at the end of a trip to East Europe. I knew that I would have little time, but I did it anyway. In the second case, my memory had failed me and I consequently had allocated only four days for this small country. That's what some friends and some guide books suggested was adequate time. In those four days I visited, Ghent, Bruges, Antwerp, and Brussels. My next trip there, I will spend at least 2-3 days in each of those cities, as well as some time in French-speaking Wallonia, especially Liege, and the Ardennes. I figure that Belgium as a whole is worth a good two weeks. Of course I said that after my trip in 2005. I still consider Belgium to be a country to savor. It has the sights, the foods, the beer and wine, the fun, and the romance of counties many times it's size. It is special.

Belgium is a prime example of a country which seems to be overlooked by tours and guide books, and while I can somewhat understand the omission, I have a difficult time justifying it. The Netherlands is much more than Amsterdam, and Belgium, like the Netherlands and Luxembourg, falls victim to the "great" cities of Europe. The two main tourist cities in Belgium, Brussels (headquarters of the European Union) and Bruges have become overrun with tourists while the rest of the country receives a much smaller portion of the tourist dollar. Belgian cities do not have the jaw-dropping sights of a Paris, London, or Rome, but they provide a much more comfortable and welcoming atmosphere than any of the above-mentioned metropolises. Even the European capital of Brussels is much slower-paced than many of the major cities of Europe.

As with my other journals, while I may try to be objective, it's pretty much a lost cause. I give a place a rating, usually 5 stars, because I don't look for things that are wrong. I do look for things that are "right" and generally say so. My budget is very limited so the closest I get to a famous hotel would be a photograph. I also make most of my own meals (I am a good cook, but I don't like to take time away from my wanderings (I eat a lot of ham sandwiches). What I want most is to share my experiences and my mistakes in hopes that readers will be spared some possibly embarrassing moments.

I will be doing Journals on each of the four cities. I still have all of my pretty extensive notes from 2005 and I just visited Bruges and Ghent this spring (2011). The cities are all very photogenic so expect a lot of photographs. As usual, I have some strong opinions. I will start with Bruges.

Quick Tips:

Best Way To Get Around:

Belgium has a great rail system. It also has a wonderful benefit for senior citizens. For men over 65 and women over 62 years of age, a senior can travel anywhere in the country and return in one day for only €5.20. These tickets have some limitations (see http://www.b-rail.be for more details). The website will also give more details on other money saving methods of travel for all ages.

The cities all have very efficient tram, bus, and metro systems and it is possible to combine different rail tickets with local transportation tickets, a further savings.

Belgium, as part of the "Low Countries," is quite flat in the Flanders area. Bicycles, therefore, are very popular and there are free bikes and rental bikes available.

I generally prefer not to rent a car, but in the area of the Ardennes and Waloonia, it might be a good idea. There are places in the mountains to stop and enjoy the scenery which one can't do on a train or bus. One of the reasons that I don't like tour bus travel is that while the guides point out all the wonderfully scenic places and lovely towns, the buses don't stop to let the passengers enjoy the environment. To me, the tour bus is my last option.

Lastly, there is walking which is the best transportation of all. Whether in cities, towns, or rural areas, it is by far the best way to enjoy just about anyplace.

European cities are alive and wonderful. Where our cities in the US have lost to "urban sprawl," the cities of Europe have maintained and indeed continue to increase in vibrancy and popularity. But the small, picturesque towns, along with the warmth of their people will always paint a better picture of a country, and the truth of that statement absolutely applies to Belgium.

Next stop - Ghent