I have visited Czech Republic several times, some of them when it was still part of Czechoslovakia, but the best and most interesting were the times spent in Prague and Brno. If I was to choose one, I would have to choose Prague, despite its…Read More

I have visited Czech Republic several times, some of them when it was still part of Czechoslovakia, but the best and most interesting were the times spent in Prague and Brno. If I was to choose one, I would have to choose Prague, despite its too-popular-for -its-own-good status among the visitors now.

I went to Prague in the early 1990's, when I was a Polish student as poor as a mouse. Czech republic is south of Poland and as I have family in a city of Bielsko-Biala, less than an hour's drive from the Czech border, I enlisted my uncle to give me a lift virtually to the turnstiles and then crossed on foot, to catch a local train to Prague from the Czech Cieszyn (or Cesky Tesyn, as it's known in Czech). This was (and I believe still is) cheaper than taking an international train across the border.

In Prague, I stayed in a dorm in a youth hostel and spent the next three days taking in that wonderful city. It was less crowded and overrun with tourists and British stag and hen parties then, but still quite busy and touristy. And yet, and despite all the crowds, and all the tourist tat, Prague was wonderful.

The Baroque architecture that dominates the city centre is elegant despite its heavy ornamentation, charming, essentially different to anything I had seen before (later on I was to see other grand Baroque cities: Rome, Bratislava, Lecce, and Czech Brno). But this was my first time – and the churches, the burghers' houses, the public buildings, all looked like if Mozart could have walked out of any doorway at any time.

The Czechs make a lot out of the Prague's connection with Mozart, and many concerts of the master's music are played in the city's churches. I attended one, and it was well worth the money and time: listening to period's music in the environment connected to the time of the artist is always a fascinating experience, even if the quality of musicians might be better in grand concert halls.

The Prague's icons – the Charles' Bridge, the Loreto Church, the Hrad (Castle) and the Jan Hus Monument on the Old Town Square are all worth seeing, as is (but more for historical reasons than because it's actually particularly attractive) the famous Venclasus Square where the Velvet Revolution officially started.

Prague also has a lot of decent night-life, great beer (what am I saying? Probably the best beer in the world – Czechs have invented Pilsner) and a variety of places to eat and sleep.

All in all, a must for any visitor to the Czech Republic, despite reservations about the overtly commercial and touristy character.
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The Jewish Quarter (Josefov)What would become known as Prague’s Jewish Ghetto got its start in the 10th century but would have a population explosion in the 13th century, when Jews were ordered to vacate their homes and gather in one area. Much of the…Read More

The Jewish Quarter (Josefov)

What would become known as Prague’s Jewish Ghetto got its start in the 10th century but would have a population explosion in the 13th century, when Jews were ordered to vacate their homes and gather in one area. Much of the ghetto was redeveloped from 1893-1913 after the ban preventing Jews from living elsewhere was lifted, and many of the buildings are from this era, though some older important structures were saved.

At one point Jews made up 10% of Prague’s population (10,000 Jews), but the Holocaust would leave a deep mark on the area. Prague would be spared much of the bombings carried out by Hitler’s army. He wanted to convert several of the buildings in the Jewish Quarter to a "Museum of the Extinct Race" after WWII. Only once was Prague bombed. On Valentine’s Day in 1945 the U.S. Air Force accidentally dropped 152 tons of bombs on the city, which had been meant for Dresden, Germany.

Today, roughly 3,000 Jews still live in the area.

Little Square (Male Namesti)

The iron fountain in the center dates from 1560. The Rott building - with hand-painted murals - is slightly younger but you can still see Renaissance graffiti on parts of it.

Maisel Synagogue

The Mayor of the Jewish Quarter, Mordechai Maisel, funded the Renaissance restoration. During this time (1590) the synagogue was constructed only to be severely damaged by the Great Fire of 1689. Its renovation would be Baroque in style but would be rebuilt again in a neo-Gothic style by 1905. During World War II it housed seized possessions of deported Jews. Today, it serves as a museum of Jewish Heritage.

Located on Maiselova Street, one of the main thoroughfares into the Jewish Quarter.

Pinkas Synagogue

A smaller structure was built under the supervision of Rabbi Pinkas in the late 1400s. In 1535 a wealthy Jew, Aaron Meshullam Horowitz, rebuilt a synagogue between his house and the Old Jewish Cemetery. It was to be a private place of worship.

The structure contains a reticulated vault and stuccoes in the Renaissance style. The southern part of the structure and a gallery for women were added in the 17th century. During a renovation, an ancient ritual bath was discovered underneath the building. It is believed to be a private area for the Horowitz family.

Following WWII the names of nearly 80,000 Bohemian and Moravian Jews, who were victims of the Holocaust, were inscribed on the walls. When the Communists came to power the names were erased when rebuilding the structure after a flood. After the 1989 revolution, the names were restored permanently.

To say that walking through the synagogue, etched with names from floor to ceiling on every wall, is gut-wrenching would be an understatement. The terror is more than anyone can absorb, but to visit upstairs will add a layer of heartbreak. Spread through several rooms are the drawings from children in the Terezin concentration camp (just west of Prague). They recorded drawings of their faith and scenes from the Bible, everyday events such as their dormitories and meals, and most horrific, their parents being loaded into train cars, headed for their deaths. Everyone should see these rooms. It will leave you permanently changed.

Located at Siroka 23/3. On the same grounds lay...

Old Jewish Cemetery

This is Europe's oldest Jewish burial place, dating back to 1439. Jews were not allowed to be buried elsewhere, so bodies were buried 12 deep in some areas. This is the most crowded cemetery in the world with over 12,000 tombstones and perhaps 100,000 remains.

Old Town (Stare Mesto)

Powder Tower.

This 213 foot tall tower was part of Old Town's fortifications, dating to 1475, though a gate has been on the site since the 11th century. Powder Tower (originally known as Mountain Tower) was the gateway to the Royal Route, leading up to the castle until 1836. When the "New" Town was incorporated into Prague the Powder Tower was used as a gunpowder storehouse, earning its new name.

Municipal House.

It was built in the Art Noveau style between 1906-1911 on the original site of the Royal Court. The signing of the document granting Czechoslovakia freedom took place here in 1918. Today it is used as a cultural center and concert hall.

Located on the Republic Square.

St. James Church.

This is Prague's second-longest church with 21 altars. It is renowned for its organ (dating from 1702) and acoustics, making this a popular place for concerts. The first church on the site was Gothic in style, and built by Minorites (a branch of the Franciscans) but was damaged in the Great Fire of 1689. It was rebuilt in the Baroque style.

One of the (eerie) legends attributed to the church is the burial of Count Vratislav of Mirovice. For several days after his burial people heard moans. Thinking he was having problems ascending to Heaven, his tomb was sprinkled with Holy water. The moans stopped. During a renovation it was discovered that his remains were outside of his coffin. He had been buried alive.

Located at Mala Stupartska.

The following surround the Old Town Square.

Church of Our Lady Before Tyn.

In the 11th century the site housed a Romanesque church, which was replaced by an early Gothic church in 1256, and finally by the present church in the late 14th century.

This church was closely connected to the 14th c. Hussite movement for religious reform. Jan Hus (a monument is located in the same square) was a forerunner of the Protestant Reformation. The Roman Catholics defeated the Hussites, put Jan Hus to death in 1415, and proceeded to rid the church of any Hussite symbol, statue or decoration.

Goltz-Kinsky Palace.

It was built for Jan Arnost Goltz in 1756 and features a beautiful pink and white stucco facade with balcony. When Count Goltz died the palace was bought by the Kinsky family, which boasted a large library (and is now home to a collection of the National Gallery). It was from the balcony that Klement Gottwald announced the take over of the Czechoslovakian government by the Communist party in 1948.

Other Highlights of Prague:

Estates Theatre

In 1783 the Classical style building was completed, commissioned by Count Nostitz. It was here that Mozart premiered his "Don Giovanni". Also, parts of the movie "Amadeus" were filmed here.

Located at Ovocny trh 1.

Wenceslas Square

This large square, named for a Bohemian Duke, is nearly a half a mile long. Originally it was a horse market but has evolved into a grand tree-lined boulevard with gardens in the center. Several historical events took place here, most recently the marches which led to the Velvet Revolution in 1989.Close

Prague is the Paris of the '90s. -- Marion RossFirst, we had to get to Prague from Budapest. Our travel package included train tickets. The travel agency must have thought that we wanted to see the countryside -- slowly. What should…Read More

Prague is the Paris of the '90s. -- Marion Ross

First, we had to get to Prague from Budapest. Our travel package included train tickets. The travel agency must have thought that we wanted to see the countryside -- slowly. What should have taken seven hours, took ten and felt like twelve. We continuously pulled onto side tracks to let express trains pass -- as well as to let people pushing baby stroller and grannies in wheelchairs go by.

Perhaps time ran backwards because of how the train compartments were set up. There were six seats crammed into one compartment with a door that locked. Julianna and I took our reserved seats. A Russian couple -- very young and very in love -- sat across from us, absorbed with each other. At the next stop a grumpy housewife from Slovakia sat next to us. She screamed angrily into her cell phone much of the trip.

At the border of Slovakia we gained a woman who sat next to the Russian couple. She brought with her the smelliest sandwich this planet has ever witnessed. Once she slammed the door shut behind her, there was no escaping the stench. We withered and gagged until a student from Lithuania appeared. Stinky had stolen her reserved seat. We awaited the fight to ensue, but the student disappeared. We prayed that she was trying to find a conductor. Stinky munched on.

I made my way out to the hallway in order to find the restroom. The hall was over-flowing with bags and people. It seems that tickets are still sold for the train even if all of the seats are reserved. Without a reservation your only option is to stand -- for seven hours. When I did find the bathroom I decided to hold it. Think: Men on a rocking train trying to hit that tiny metal bowl.

Once back in the compartment I discovered that the student had emerged to demand her seat. Stinky admitted defeat but the smell continued to linger. I looked out at the countryside and missed road trips across America. The only irritation would be the GPS leading us astray -- but in a pleasant British accent.

Pulling into the Praha (Prague) station we saw the sun setting over a skyline filled with spires. In the taxi we passed the Opera, several squares and the most ornate buildings. Prague is truly stunning.

My first Facebook post regarding the city:
I am going to run out of camera batteries and memory cards! Every building is spectacular. This is the most beautiful city that Man has ever built. Words cannot describe the magnificence. I am now uploading pictures, which will never do Prague justice.

Our first evening in Prague...

We had heard that the number of restaurants in the city has sky-rocketed in the past few years, as well as most international cuisine styles are now represented in quality just behind Paris. Anxious to sample the food (and extremely tired of bland Hungarian food) I tried to hurry Julianna. Her response: "No one in Europe eats at 5:00." End result: All of the French (and Italian and Continental) restaurants were packed. We wandered around the Lesser Town.

The only place we could get in was a steakhouse near Church of Our Lady Below the Chain. It was mostly empty -- and we were about to find out why. It was located in a cellar which was painted all in pastels with artwork of dragons and witches covering the walls. I suspected that the decorator had been on a hippy acid trip.

I ordered the beefsteak with caper sauce, while Julianna opted for Hawaiian pizza. The pizza was mediocre with over-salted ham. And, though I ordered the steak "medium well" it was delivered nearly raw, and had to be sent back. Through all of the dishes being delivered and returned I had to hunt down the waitress twice. She was too busy texting to notice us -- the only couple now eating. (We are not revealing the restaurant’s name as our meal seems to be a one-off. Reviews on Tripadvisor were all positive.)

Undaunted by this experience, we pressed on into the night to discover Prague. The city is best seen at night, and even better by horse-drawn carriage. [Lines of awaiting carriages can be found near the Old Town Square. A 20-minute ride set us back $40.]

Church of Our Lady Below the Chains

Built in 1420, this is the oldest church located in the Mala Strana. The Order of the Maltese Knights came to the rescue, funding a three-nave Romanesque church. When the Knights Templar were exiled the basilica was demolished, leaving only foundation walls. A Gothic nave was started but construction stalled during the Hussite Wars in the 15th century. Finally, a century later the church was completed in the Renaissance style, with the Baroque interior installed in the 17th century.

Address: Located on Lazenska.

Charles Bridge

This pedestrian only stone bridge dates to 1357 and is 1,692 feet in length. It connects the Old Town with "New" Town by spanning the Vltava River. The bridge would be the only crossing over the river until 1841. In roughly 1700, thirty statues were placed along the bridge, though the current statues are replicas.

The first statue to appear on the bridge was St. John of Nepomuk (1698). He is the national saint of the Czech Republic. By King Wenceslaus’ order he was drowned in the river for not divulging a secret told to him by the Queen of Bohemia. Across the bridge and down at the end you’ll find King Wenceslaus’ statue. He was considered a "good king" (as the subject of the Christmas carol "Good King Wenceslas") and became the patron saint of the people.

On the Stare Mesto side of the the bridge lies the Old Town Bridge Tower. This Gothic tower was completed in 1380 as part of the city’s fortification system. In 1648 it proved its worth against maurading Swedes, though the west side was severely damaged.

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On a String: The history of Marionettes in Prague

Traditionally, the marionettes are hand-carved from wood or made from plaster, and originate in the 18th century. The subject matter can be devils, animals, characters from stories, royalty or a variety of other themes.

The National Marionette Theatre is at Zatecka 1 in Old Town.Close

It was one of those wet, dreary days in the Czech Republic when we hopped on to the packed bus heading for Cesky Krumlov. Hoping the weather would brighten up a little as we waved goodbye to the enormous bus station in Prague, I started…Read More

It was one of those wet, dreary days in the Czech Republic when we hopped on to the packed bus heading for Cesky Krumlov. Hoping the weather would brighten up a little as we waved goodbye to the enormous bus station in Prague, I started to wonder what this town, often described as a fairy tale town, was actually like.

Sometimes the countryside in between towns in this region can be plain, flat and somewhat dull but fortunately the splendid Gothic and Baroque architecture make up for this.

Once we had arrived in Cesky Krumlov the drizzle was still with us but it didn't deter us from walking around this wonderful town.

The Vlatva river forms two wide arcs around the town. One of the semi circles encloses the Old Town, and in the second loop stands the castle. It comes as no surprise that this beautiful historical centre was added to UNESCO's World heritage List in 1992.

The rather ramshackle buildings and the monastery in the Latiran quarter were once desperately in need of attention. When the Germans - who had lived here since the town was founded by the Viteks - were evicted in the post war period, many buildings fell into disrepair, but much has been preserved and work is still being carried out.

The river is actually a very pretty sight; spanned by wooden bridges, meandering through quiet pastures. It is peaceful to walk alongside the river and listen to the sound of wildlife as you pass by.

I found that Krumlov's Gothic and Baroque features are best appreciated on a late summer afternoon. I spotted many hidden features. The shapes, the colours, the narrow alleyways, the crooked arcades -a wonderful experience when walking through the streets.

Walking around I noticed lots of visitors and many from nearby Austria. It was like going on a journey back into the Middle Ages.

The castle is probably the main attraction - it is the second biggest in the country after Hradcany in Prague. The 13th century, pastel pink tower, can be seen from practically everywhere in the town. About 300 years after the tower was built, the fortress was converted into a Renaissaince castle and then in the 18th century, the Schwarzenbergs built the unique castle bridge. Three arcades, forty metres high and 30 metres long were built one on top of another.

There is a very special artistic atmosphere in Krumlov. In the years when private initiatives were frowned upon elsewhere in Czechoslovakia, galleries were opening here and the town played host to avant garde artistic festivals. The Hall of Masques in the upper castle is the best place to witness this independent spirit. Visitors can be guests at a commedia dell' arte, a masque; the walls are covered with painted theatre boxes, grimacing faces appear. Harlequins, women in all their finery and pot-belllied noblemen join in the fun.

During June, July and August; months when I have visited, the town's social calendar seems to be a busy one. In the middle of June I witnessed the townsfolk dressing up in historical costume for a colourful carnival which recalled the years of the Rozmberk family. At the same time, the owner of the Eggenberg brewery, a descendant of another important local family, organised a beer festival. The South Bohemian drama festival attracts foreign theatre groups and other international events include some fantastic art exhibitions in the Egon Schiele Cultural Centre and the August Music Festival.

The Castle garden is the usual venue for public performances as it not only possesses an open-air theatre with a revolving stage, but also provides an unsurpassable backdrop: the town and castle.

Another attraction to look out for as you aproach the castle walls is the bear pit which is inside the castle moat between the first and second courtyard. These are very special brown bears and have been kept here since the early 18th century.

One year I spent Christmas in the Czech Republic and I went to the Bear festival on Christmas Eve. This was originally organised as a festival for children who were impatient and couldn't wait to open their presents. In the early hours of Christmas Eve morning a head bear keeper and his colleagues take a large selection of sweets, biscuits, fruit, cake and gingerbreads to be placed on the enormous spruce trees that surround the moat. All these goodies are tied together on one long strand so that when the bears tug on one of the sweets the others will follow and dissolve into their mouths. Children with parents can visit the moat and instead of paying an entrance fee they take handfuls of fruit, honey, cakes, and confectionery. These presents are laid out underneath the decorated spruces for the bears to eat.

It is a spectacular occassion with all family members taking part. Not only do the brown bears recieive large amounts of sweet food, visitors have a party too. Children are given reciprocal presents of sweets, paints, pens, toys, chocolate and adults are treated to fruit punch. When everyone had finished eating we then had to depart from the special enclosures so the bears could be led in to enjoy their feast. Standing on top of the bridge I was able to see the bears being led to the moat to devour every morsel under the decorated christmas trees. A fine sight to behold for children and grown-ups.

So when in the Czech Republic leave Prague behind and take a trip into South Bohemia to Cesky Krumlov - a town filled with vibrant life, medieval streets, colours, majestic buildings and brown bears. A most impressive town. Close

To continue my journey through the Czech Republic I am going to leave Prague and travel to Ceskomoravska Vrchovina which is the area known as the Bohemian-Moravian Mountains. I have already mentioned in a previous review what a beautiful city Prague is but if you…Read More

To continue my journey through the Czech Republic I am going to leave Prague and travel to Ceskomoravska Vrchovina which is the area known as the Bohemian-Moravian Mountains. I have already mentioned in a previous review what a beautiful city Prague is but if you are in the Czech Republic and have some spare time, step outside the city and look further beyond. You won't be disappointed as their is a wealth of treasures to be seen; accommodation, food and drink prices are much cheaper once outside the capital and the pace of life is a lot slower.

It was late February when I visited the mountains and the winter still lingered. The buds were appearing in the Sazava valley but the hillside meadows were still covered with a thin layer of snow. Even in spring, the morning mist does not lift until late morning but then the hills and plains reveal their contours. The greyness gives way to the bright green and yellow of the rape filelds with the red sheen of the corn poppy always in evidence. The villages remain grey, however: the people in these parts have never enjoyed great prosperity.

On the plains, there was a great deal of wealth in such towns as Kutna Hora and Jihlava. Silver ore was mined here during the Middle Ages and huge Gothic churches testify to the economic signifigance of these towns. Nowadays, however, many places are having difficulty adapting to the new economic order.

Food production is the commercial mainstay in Kolin and Kutna Hora but, since the end of the Communist regime, foreign imports have taken their toll.

This area may not have the beauty of Bavaria or Austria and even though a little grey in parts it is still very charming in a Czech way. There are many fascinating buildings along this route, mainly religious houses but not all. I found it interesting to find out the history of the silver mines and to see how the people outside of Prague live. I found most of the people I met on the way very calm, quiet and friendly. Most of all I loved the Gothic churches and Baroque houses in Telc. It is well worth the 220 kilometres drive from Bohemia's Prague to Moravia.

If you are in a hurry and want to cover the 200 kilometres from Prague to Brno without visiting this area then you can take the motorway but if you have the time available, I suggest you allow two days for this journey and take the time out to really look at the Czech Republic in a different light.

If you wish to travel by bus then buses can be caught from Prague main bus station but always check details as times change and connections to some of the towns are not always frequent.

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The history of many Bohemian towns can be traced back through the buildings. Medieval prosperity left its mark just as much as the devastation of the religious wars and the years of the Counter-reformation. Kutna Hora which is situated 41 miles from Prague, flourished economically…Read More

The history of many Bohemian towns can be traced back through the buildings. Medieval prosperity left its mark just as much as the devastation of the religious wars and the years of the Counter-reformation. Kutna Hora which is situated 41 miles from Prague, flourished economically and culturally during the 13th and 14th centuries. At the time it was the second biggest town in Bohemia. The richly endowed silver mines nearby produced the metal from which the 'Prague penny', coins recognised throughout Europe, were minted. Its two churches are Gothic and if you appreciate Gothic architecture then these are worth a visit along with the Stone House and the fort in Baborska ulice. The Old Town has not lost its medieval charm and you can still walk down the narrow alleyways.

The arcaded Palacky Square is the town's focal point. Standing in the square is the Italian Court which was built at the end of the 13th century and houses what was the home of the town's first Italian coin maker. Inside there is a small museum which documents the history of the coins. The house was also used as a residence for the ruling family who frequently visited the town.

Next to the Italian Court stands the Chirch of St. James (1339-1420), which lovers of Baroque painting will not want to miss. Works by some of the most famous Bohemian painters of the period like Peter Brandl and Franz Xaver Balko (1734) give a warmth and feeling to the cool interior. The sultry reds and gleaming golds of the paintings are really striking as you enter the church. You feel like you want to stretch out your hands to touch the smooth painted cloaks of the religious figures.

By far the most important building in the town, the Church of St. Barbara, is dedicated to the patron saint of miners. Visible from miles around, its unusual, three part, tent-shaped roof, was added to the five-naved cathedral in 1552. Although it was designed by Peter Parler, the Hussite War stopped work until 1481 and then Matthias Rejsek who was the architect of Prague's Powder Tower continued work on the cathedral and was responsible for the vaulting in the choir. The columns are so slim I find it hard to believe they carry the vaulting. An impression of weightlessness has obviously been created here. The side aisles are divided into two sections: tall, spacious galleries stretch above the dark, partly painted chapels. This is an amazing structure and because of its height you immediately look up and end up with a creak in your neck beause you can't stop looking upwards at its sheer beauty.

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The city of Prague is divided into five main areas, and is split by the Vltava river. On the right bank, we have the Old Town, New Town, and Jewish Quarters. (Our Hotel was in Old Town). On the left bank, there is the "Little…Read More

The city of Prague is divided into five main areas, and is split by the Vltava river. On the right bank, we have the Old Town, New Town, and Jewish Quarters. (Our Hotel was in Old Town). On the left bank, there is the "Little Quarter" and the Prague Castle and Hradcany area. Any good guidebook will show the main areas and main attractions of each, allowing you to make the most of your visit- we had purchased the eye-witness guide.

The best way to explore the city initially is on foot. We had a five night break in Prague, which is probably a little longer than average, but did give us plenty of time to explore every corner, and have time to relax and watch the world go by. Once you set out on your exploration, you will find that the city is extremely geared up for tourism – there are tour operators offering coach and boating tours, and if you want a tour by horse drawn carriage, or by a vintage Skoda, then you have come to the right place! There are plenty of walking tours, and you will soon get familiar with tour guides leading 10-50 people around the main sites of the city. We didn’t join any, as generally I would prefer to explore alone, however if you are near an historical site, if you are close enough to a tour guide you might learn a fact or two..!

We did opt for a late afternoon 1hr river cruise, which was pleasant and affordable enough. There is a myriad of entertainment boats offering dinner and jazz nights etc, from the bridge just north of Charles Bridge - that links Little Quarter with the Jewish Quarter, however these are not my idea of enjoyment.

Transportation
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It is possible to purchase tickets which cover both the electric trams, underground and buses for very affordable pricing across several days. Tickets can be bought at a tabac or at a station and should be validated at the ticket machines before making the first journey. If you don’t have a ticket you risk a fine, and it isn’t always possible to buy a ticket at a machine at a tram station. Public transport tends to be very busy and tickets are rarely checked but the sooner you can get to a station and buy a ticket the better, as there are heavy fines for passengers travelling without a ticket. We bought a three day ticket which we did not use all that much, but it was invaluable when it was late and it was a long walk home. Tickets also cover the Fenicular railway (although we didn’t realise that and paid twice!)

Key Attractions
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Our hotel was situated on Narodni, which divides the Old and New Town and we often found ourselves in the Old Town Area. The highlight of the area is the wonderful Old Town Square but all the streets leading into Old Town Square are bustling with life. Not surprisingly, as Old Town Square has been important for almost 1000 years. Even if churches are not your thing, the Powder Gate, the Old Town Hall Tower and its fantastic astronomical clock should not be missed.

Charles Bridge crosses the Vltava and links Old Town with the Little Quarter. Crossing the bridge might take a while! This footbridge used to take four carriages abreast. There are plenty of artists selling their wares as you walk over the bridge, but the main feature of the bridge is the umpteen statues of saints that line its route across the river. Be prepared for the groups of people who congregate to touch the statue of St John Nepomuk, the statue has been polished bright from people wanting to receive good luck.

Prague Castle – the size of the Prague Castle complex is overwhelming. According to the Guinness book of records it is the largest continuous castle complex in the world, and is recognised by Unesco. We opted for a traditional Czech lunch at one of the restaurants close to the castle, before exploring its grounds. There are in fact five churches within this area, as well as several palaces and historic buildings, museums and galleries and important streets, including Golden Lane.

The Cathedral is situated within the walls of Prague Castle, and while there may look like there is a long queue for entry, it disappears within a reasonable timeframe and it is worth joining. You cannot gain entry to Golden Lane and its picturesque 16th century cottages without purchasing a ticket, which also allows access to St George’s Basilica, the gruesome Dalibor Tower and other attractions. We found an anomaly here, in that it is cheaper to purchase a family ticket than it is to purchase a ticket for two adults...so we purchased a family ticket, and were then refused entry to St George’s on the grounds we didn’t have a child with us..! Madness..but we got in eventually. I think they got their pricing strategy a little incorrect there however..!

Museum of Communism – this small museum was situated just off Narodni, and a few minutes walk from our hotel. Amazingly this was not mentioned in our guide book however it was an excellent social history museum looking at communism, the dream, reality and nightmare that was life in Prague from the second world war until the Velvet Revolution in 1989. The fact that they advertise themselves as situated betweein a McDonalds and a casino was not lost on me.

As you wander around Prague, you cannot fail to notice the large number of musical halls, and everywhere you walk, you will find leaflets thrust upon you, promoting classical music events available to you that evening. We found one we liked, which covered a mix of popular classical music and bought two tickets for approximately £10 for a one hour show. The act was a four piece string quartet, playing in a church and it was an excellent way to spend an hour early evening and experience the importance of music on this great city. I would however say that it is better to purchase the tickets at the venue itself, rather than street sellers, as a precautionary measure.

Wenceslas Square seemed quite commercialised to me, however the great buildings that are all around Prague are evident here, and it is impossible to come to Prague and not spend some time here. Most of our time was spent sitting outside the Hotel Europa, which has much of its original features, and is an affordable but fashionable place for a drink or lunch.

Back over the water to Petrin Park, which is worth visiting late afternoon, to spend some time see some of the attractions there, but also a good place to relax, read a book, and look down upon the city and river. The park itself is extremely steep, hence the reason for the 1891 Funicular Railway which carries visitors to the Observation Tower, the false "Eiffel Tower" that is clearly visible on the city skyline. Just 299 steps, and one spiral staircase will get you to the top of the tower, from which you can see for miles around, and the entrance fee is minimal.

The Jewish Cemetery, in the Jewish Quarter, was expensive, at the equivalent of approximately £7.50 a head. However this is an important part of Prague history, and even if you do not visit the cemetery, it is worthwhile spending an afternoon wandering through the Jewish quarter to get a better feeling of Jewish life. Most Jews in Prague were sent to Terezin ghetto once the second world war was underway.

Overall
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I am delighted that I finally got the opportunity to visit Prague and even though my city break was fairly extended compared to others, I still wish I had a day or two more to do some more exploration. From exploring the architecture and culture of Prague, this has been a very wealthy city that has had its struggles under communism but is certainly a lively city for visitors from across the globe.

Obviously the city has become popular with group travel, but as we arrived Monday and departed Saturday we never saw any situations that we were uncomfortable with. There are plenty of warnings about pickpockets, and this is very much a city which is heaving with tourists. We took the normal sensible precautions and did not have any security scares either.

The city is alive from early morning to late evening, and whether you want to explore architecture, churches and history, relax in parklands and watch the world go by, or eat, drink and party to the small hours, then Prague has something to offer you.
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-Travel/Transport- Transport in Prague is excellent. They have a metro as well as buses and trams so getting around the city is never a problem. For me there were three things that made the transport great, it was clean, it was efficient and it was…Read More

-Travel/Transport-
Transport in Prague is excellent. They have a metro as well as buses and trams so getting around the city is never a problem.
For me there were three things that made the transport great, it was clean, it was efficient and it was cheap.
You can buy tickets that give you unlimited travel for certain periods. I think it was something like 90p to travel for 75 minutes on buses, metro and trams. I thought that this was really good value.
I never had to wait more than five minutes for a bus and the metro was even more regular than that. I'm quite an impatient person so this was really good for me.
The metro was surprisingly clean, especially when you compare it to the London underground. The stations were clean and very new looking and so were the trains. I was very impressed.
It is important to remember to buy the tickets before boarding any form of transport though.

However, you don't really need to use the transport if you stay in the right places because it is possible to walk to most of the tourist area's. I used the transport when I was still trying to find my way around Prague but with a good map and a good pair of walking shoes there's not really any reason why you need to use the transport if you prefer to walk.
Walking through Prague is really a pleasure. The city is really beautiful and although it was obviously a bit cold (it was winter) I still really enjoyed walking around.
I found Prague to be a very pedestrian friendly city. There are a lot of crossings so there's never an issue with crossing the road. Cars generally stop for you (this may seem like a silly thing to say but I've been to so many places where the cars ignore the crossings and the pedestrians) and there are a lot of pedestrianised areas.
It snowed a lot while I was there and I was a bit concerned about the ground being slippery but almost everywhere I went was salted so that there was no ice or snow on the floor.

-Eating-
We went self catering which was perfect for us because it kept the cost of the holiday down. There was a tesco, which seemed to be the main supermarket, and it sold pretty much everything and like the tesco over here was pretty cheap. There were also loads of mini markets, at least one on every side street, it seemed. There were three on the road that we were staying on and they stocked a good variety of food and drink.
So, basically, you won't starve! If you go self catering there are plenty of places to buy food and drink and the prices are very reasonable compared to the prices over here. You won't have to look far for the food shops.

Although we went self catering we did eat out quite a lot. I was quite disappointed to find that there are so many American chain restaurants (TGI's, McDonald's, Starbucks...the usual suspects) but if you like to stick to what you know I guess that could be a positive thing.
It is not difficult to find a restaurant in Prague and they serve all kinds of food so there's something for every taste. I would highly recommend that anyone visiting Prague tries the traditional goulash at least one, but it's not suitable for vegetarians.

There are a lot of places that are suitable for vegetarians, including a number of places that serve just vegetarian food. If you are a vegetarian it's best to look up vegetarian places before going out in Prague because we did end up in some places where there were only one or two vegetarian options.

I would recommend eating at Cafe Slavia. Apparently it's famous. I didn't know this until I looked it up on google just now to check the spelling on the name, but I can see why it's famous. It's wonderful in there!
It's a cafe, the prices are really reasonable but you get treated as though you're in an expensive restaurant.
The service was excellent. Always very quick and very friendly with staff who couldn't do enough to help you.
The food was great and there was so much choice. The portion sizes are huge. I have a good appetite but I struggled to eat all of my main course and had to leave some of it, so definitely good value for money. They have a great selection of cake which I'm told by my friends are lovely but everytime we went in there I couldn't fit any dessert in! Over all really tasty, huge portions that are great value for money.
Oh, and try the hot chocolate. It's the best hot chocolate I've ever had.
The entire atmosphere in this restaurant is great. It has an art deco look, so very attractive and looks out over the river.
Unfortunately there was no non smoking section and I hate smoke so this ruined the experience slightly for me. However, it's a testament to the greatness of this place that I was willing to eat there so many times even though it involved inhaling other peoples smoke.

If you want a cheap, vegetarian place to try I would recommend Country Life. It's not the best food that I've tried but it is all vegetarian and it's all very cheap. There isn't any table service. It reminded me a lot of school dinners, you go up to the counter, choose your food and then take it to the till. It's completely self service.
This place isn't anything special in terms of service and atmosphere but it's perfect if you're out in old town and need somewhere cheap and quick to eat.

-Things to do-
I did a lot of sight seeing n Prague and I'm not going to go into a huge amount of detail here, the things worth reviewing I'll review seperately for those who are interested.
There is a lot to do in Prague and if you do want to see a lot of sights it's worth looking into the Prague card (just search google for it).
I would recommend going to the old town. It's such a beautiful place and when I was there I felt like I was in a fairy tale! Honestly, with the snow and all of the pretty buildings it was like being in a disney film. I don't know much about art or architecture, all I know is that the buildings look great.
There are a number of attractions in old town and I personally really enjoyed going into the old town hall and tower.
On the hour every hour there are crowds gathered outside of the tower to see statues of the apostles going past the window in the astronomical clock. This isn't anything amazing but you might as well see it if you're in the area.

The national museum is another must see for anyone going to Prague. Like most of the buildings this building is amazing and inside there is so much to see. I'm really interested in history and this museum will give you a good overview of the history of the Czech Republic. There's also a zoology, paleantology and anthropology exhibition, but that didn't really interest me so I can't really comment on that.

-Shopping-
Like in most touristy places there are shops everywhere.
I was surprised to find that there was a debenhams and a marks and spencer in Prague. There are a lot of chain stores which weren't personally to my taste. I don't go to a different country to shop in the same shops.
I wanted to buy marionette puppets as gifts and found that there were loads of shops selling them, as well as other souvenirs. It's worth shopping around a bit because the prices do vary. I found that in most of the shops the shop assistants were quite pushy. I really hate that because it makes me feel uncomfortable. They are good in the way that they're happy to talk to you about the product but I would have preferred being left to browse.

-General-
Prague is a beautiful city, I really enjoyed my visit and want to go back but there were a few things that I didn't like.
I've mentioned before that I hate smoking, I just don't like inhaling smoke and people smoke everywhere here. I don't think that I went into a single cafe or restaurant where people weren't smoking.
The city is clean but I found that there was frequently the smell of sewage.

I would definitely recommend visiting Prague. I was there for a week and felt like I needed longer to really see everything that Prague has to offer. I can't wait to go back.
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Just over an hour west of Prague, Plzen is one of my favourite Czech cities.Although it lacks the immediate visual appeal of the capital, Cesky Krumlov or Olomouc, Plzen is still a city of some superlatives. The biggest surviving synagogue in the country, the…Read More

Just over an hour west of Prague, Plzen is one of my favourite Czech cities.

Although it lacks the immediate visual appeal of the capital, Cesky Krumlov or Olomouc, Plzen is still a city of some superlatives. The biggest surviving synagogue in the country, the tallest spire, the third largest population and, most importantly for visitors, arguably the best beer in the world.

Built by Vaclav II at the end of the thirteenth century, Plzen's historic centre is easy to navigate on foot. The green spire of St Bartholomew's points the way to Namesti Republiky, right in the middle of the old town. From here, the main train station is a ten-minute walk south, the bus station the same distance to the west, and the Pilsner Urquell brewery, visible across the river from the bottom end of Prazska, a couple of minutes closer to the east.

The brewery tour is over-priced and disappointing but it's still worth the walk to see the famous gate (as seen on beer bottles worldwide) and the country's largest pub, Na Spilce, which does cheap food and an endless supply of cold lager. Closer to Namesti Republiky (a few minutes north along Rooseveltova) don't miss the pub attached to the Beer Museum (Pivovarske Muzeum), where you can down half-litres of unfiltered Pilsner Urquell for just 30 crowns.

In terms of nightlife, Plzen is probably the liveliest Czech city outside of Prague and Liberec. After Na Spilce the most famous pub in town is the seventeenth-century U Salzmannu in Prazska, which attracts middle-aged locals and tourists. For a younger crowd, try the Kavarna Incognito in Husova or the imaginatively titled The Pub in Presovska, between the Great Synagogue and Namesti Republiky. Beer prices are around half of what you'd pay in the centre of Prague.

As a stop-over on the railway line west to Munich, a break in the journey between Cesky Krumlov and Karlovy Vary, or just a cheaper alternative to Prague, Plzen is a great place to spend a couple of days. Cheaper than the capital, with a smattering of museums and masses of fantastic beer, it's well worth a day-trip at the very least. Close

Karlovy Vary. King of Spas, famous, gorgeous and, along with Prague and Cesky Krumlov, the doyen of Czech tourism. All this is true. But scratch below the surface and it's a bit of a disappointment too.Did I say the city was gorgeous? Well,…Read More

Karlovy Vary. King of Spas, famous, gorgeous and, along with Prague and Cesky Krumlov, the doyen of Czech tourism. All this is true. But scratch below the surface and it's a bit of a disappointment too.

Did I say the city was gorgeous? Well, it is. At least in parts, anyway. Once you're past the frankly hideous Thermal (which, on first glance, could just as easily be a prison as a luxury hotel) the colonnades and gilded riverside buildings wouldn't look out of place in Prague or Paris or Vienna. At the bottom, above the magnificently opulent Grand Hotel Pupp, are picturesque strolls through wooded hills (my favourite, marked yellow, winds leisurely up to a bust of Peter the Great and a fairytale lookout over the valley). Then there's the Becherovka Museum, a paean to (arguably) the Republic's finest strong alcohol, the theatre, with frescoes by Klimt, where Dvorak premiered his New World Sympathy, and a stunning Russian Orthodox church (plus nearby statue of Marx) on the edge of town.

So what's wrong with Karlovy Vary? The exorbitant prices don't help, that's for sure. Like Taormina, the town has the same relationship to tourism as a plant to sunlight. In the places where the locals don't go except to serve coffees or wait on tables, prices triple and service standards fall by an inverse amount. Walk a few minutes beyond the Thermal, though, and the show draws abruptly to a close. Crowds disappear, prices fall, supermarkets replace designer clothes shops, the pubs stay busy after 10pm and grey suburbs loom on the horizon. Gorgeous it may be, but the Karlovy Vary that the tourists see has cash signs for a heart. A nice place for a day-trip, maybe, but a brash, overcrowded let-down for anyone looking for a dash of the old Central Europe. The problem with this town is it could be anywhere.
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