Last Chance Gulch is where it all began, the heart of old Helena. For it was here that four guys known locally as the Four Georgians, though there's some speculation that there may have been more than four, and that not all of them…Read More

Last Chance Gulch is where it all began, the heart of old Helena. For it was here that four guys known locally as the Four Georgians, though there's some speculation that there may have been more than four, and that not all of them were actually from Georgia, found GOLD. Prospecting does not a well-platted city make, and old south Helena's streets exemplify futile attempts at straight lines, succeeding less often, but providing more interesting geometry and adventure than any perfectly platted city.

Old buildings, new structures, and all ages in between are intertwined and side by side, making for an entertaining if not always consistent experience in architectural viewing. On the streets and walls, and in nooks and crannies, you'll find artwork, from the dynamic bullwhacker statue, whip raised high, to the Women's Mural honoring Montana's women through history. Bob and I spent an enjoyable afternoon wandering about Last Chance Gulch, a portion of which was converted to a walking mall in the mid-1970s. Many old-time Helenans rue the destruction of entire neighborhoods that took place during that 1970s wave of urban renewal. Yet many beautiful and unique historic buildings remain.

The heart of the Gulch runs roughly between 6th Avenue (north) to Reeder's Alley/State Street (south), and Park Avenue (west) to Cruse Avenue (east). A good place to begin wandering the Gulch and Mall, once you've found it, is from anywhere nearby you're lucky enough to find a parking place. This was somewhat challenging (finding the Gulch itself as well as a parking place) when we visited in September 2006. However, a new car park between 6th and Broadway, probably opening even as I write (October 2007), should be an easy place to park and start.

My tendency is to get up high and look around to gain perspective. A good place to do so is from the Guardian of the Gulch, the historic 25-foot tall fire tower that is also Helena's official city logo. The squat wooden not particularly elegant but highly beloved structure is visible from most of the Gulch. It's also one of the few fire towers of its kind still standing.

Just make your way over to Cruse Avenue across Broadway to find the trail that leads past the hillside pocket park and picnic area up to the tower. You can walk completely around the tower, but it's fenced off and climbing it is off-limits. It was utilized as a fire lookout from the 1860s to the 1930s. From the hill on which the Guardian stands, you'll be rewarded by panoramic views of the Gulch and more distant landmarks.

After taking in those views, I made my way down the hillside into the Gulch again. My checking out individual buildings, businesses, and artwork, was interrupted by a man's voice, seemingly directed at me. Hey, hippie... I ignore him. Tanja! OK, that's my name, so I suspiciously turn in his direction. Nice looking, reddish-blond hair, mustache, about my age; did I know this character from my dubious past? Surreptitiously, my husband Bob emerges from the shadows behind him, grinning. A typical Bob trick, very funny.

The two had started up a conversation when they bumped into each other, wandering the streets of Last Chance Gulch, and soon I was also engaged in conversation with Jim Fetzer, owner/operator/and chocolate artist extraordinaire, of Northern Chocolate Company in Milwaukee. He's visited Helena before, and had some good tips about things to do and see in and outside of town, including nearby and not-so-nearby ghost-town recommendations (Bannack highly recommended).

Thanking Jim, we continued our explorations. Kitty-corner from Bullwhacker's Western Grill, Saloon, and Casino, which advertises the largest steak in Helena, stands the Bullwhacker statue. With stoic expression and whip raised high to keep those oxen under control, he's a memory of Montana's frontier past. Another statue up the street commemorates a later time: a diminutive newsboy holding his paper high shouts out (mutely) "Extra! Read all about it!"

We spot a picturesque white and red Helena trolley. Though we didn't ride on one, they run routes downtown, during summers also to nearby trailheads, and apparently can even be rented for weddings. In front of Windbag Saloon and Ghost Art Gallery stands a restored Helena streetcar, painted cheerful yellow, now stationary. The building behind it housed one of Helena's last brothels, Big Dorothy's, until 1973.

Propeller, anchor, and bell of the third USS Helena (CA-75) are on display in a small park at the end of Last Chance Mall. She was a heavy cruiser who served during the Korean War. Her extensive naval career ended when she was sold for scrap metal in 1974. Gunner's Mate Earl Pullin describes the histories of all three USS Helenas, beginning with a gunboat built in 1896.

Finally, we make our way under a colorful spray-painted, tagged, and grafittied bridge to historic Bluestone House. Almost as much of a city landmark as the Guardian of the Gulch, this architectural gem was allegedly designed by architect James Stranahan for his bride, Leona, in 1889, out of locally quarried stone. The legend (as related on the plaque in front of the house) continues that James died before the house was finished, and Leona only resided there for a short time. Bluestone House was severely damaged by a 1935 earthquake, but reconstructed in the 1970s, thanks to urban renewal funds. It now houses a law firm, and some say it is haunted.

Treat yourself to Helena As She Was, a website that features a historic photo tour of Last Chance Gulch, and other old treasures of Helena.Close

We spent the better part of an afternoon nosing around historic Reeder's Alley, at the south end of Last Chance Gulch. At first glance, it doesn't look like much. A conglomeration of mismatched buildings - some log cabins, some wooden, and quite a few…Read More

We spent the better part of an afternoon nosing around historic Reeder's Alley, at the south end of Last Chance Gulch. At first glance, it doesn't look like much. A conglomeration of mismatched buildings - some log cabins, some wooden, and quite a few red-brick ones. Between them, a faded pinkish-gray brick pathway leads up the tree-shaded alley. However, there's more than meets the eye and plenty to keep the interest. This location is the site of Helena's oldest buildings and its mining boomtown beginnings.

I didn't realize there even was a visitor center in Reeder's Alley until after exploring some and just happening to stumble onto it, but that's a good place to begin. They have excellent handouts and knowledgeable staff. It's located in the lower alley, the front brick office, facing west. A four-page news sheet contains a wealth of information and drawings about the history of the alley, Last Chance Gulch, and geological features of this area.

Reeder's Alley gets its name from Louis Reeder, a stonemason and bricklayer from Pennsylvania, who arrived in Helena in 1867, three years after gold was discovered in Last Chance Gulch. After helping to build Helena's first courthouse, he invested in property along the Gulch, gradually erecting several rows and tiers of brick tenements for miners. These 35 units provided comfortable and fire-resistant homes, sturdier and snugger than tents or even log cabins. They've withstood the test of time, earthquakes, and even urban renewal. Reeder himself died an untimely death after a fall from scaffolding, while repairing a chimney, in 1884.

Through the decades, mostly single men, and later pensioners, made the small apartments of Reeder's Alley their home. Early on, it was bordered by a thriving Chinatown, and nearby, a very active red light district that continued to offer services until the '70s. Reeder's Alley and adjoining "unsavory" areas were slated by city planners for demolishment. Three Helena women, envisioning an artist colony instead, purchased and fixed up the buildings in the alley. The colony never really materialized, but thankfully, the alley was saved from destruction. In 2000, Reeder's Alley was donated to the Montana Heritage Commission.

Pioneer Cabin right of the alley entrance, is the oldest building in Helena. The gray log cabin with white trim dates from 1864-65, built by brothers Wilson and Jonas Butts. After its last resident died in 1939, the Last Chance Restoration Association restored the cabin and furnished it with period pieces. Peeking through the many windows gains good indoors views. With its bright whitewashed walls, rocking chairs, sewing corner, and dining table all set in the kitchen, it looks downright livable. The cabin is a museum and tours can be arranged; call (406) 449-6522.

Caretaker Cabin to the left is almost as old as the Butts cabin, but looks newer because its log walls were covered in clapboard. Yee Wau Cabin next to it, was built in 1870 by two brothers who sold groceries and Chinese merchandise. Helena's Chinatown, five sprawling blocks of homes, businesses, and extensive gardens, was populated mostly by men, as were so many Chinatowns in the old West. Already dwindling in the 1890's, the remaining buildings were entirely demolished by 1970's urban renewal. The sturdy little Yee Wau Cabin at the edge of Reeder's Alley is the only survivor.

As we made our way up the alley, we came across a woman who was cleaning out one of the brick apartments, where she ran a curio shop all summer. She shared with us a most unusual experience she had there. The resident ghost of that particular apartment, a prospector, played a prank on her by locking her in a closet. She hollered for help, but it was evening and other shopkeepers had already gone home. She showed us damage to the wood, where she finally pried open the door to get out, after several hours. Even more strangely, there was no locking mechanism...

Some apartments in the upper alley, now mostly offices and a few shops, use the stone of the gulch itself as a back wall. In the back part of the upper alley you'll also find the Stonehouse, which used to be and now is again, a restaurant, but didn't seem to be running when we were there. It's now called Bootlegger's at the Stonehouse. Beyond the Stonehouse you'll find Morelli Bridge, built in 1893, the oldest timber bridge in Montana.

Karmadillo's enjoys a fantastic view of the Last Chance Gulch area from multi-level wooden decks on the upper alley. They serve extensive Southwestern selections for breakfast, and lunch/dinner, most under $10. Seasonal hours and days open can be found on their website.

off S. Park Avenue
Visitor center and information: Montana Heritage Commission
101 Reeder's Alley
(406) 449-6522
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From Billings, there two ways to get there. Either take I-90 past Bozeman, then 287 morth to Helena, through rolling hills, with the moutains in the distance. This is the main road. Another scenic route is to take 89 north by the Crazy Mountains and…Read More

From Billings, there two ways to get there. Either take I-90 past Bozeman, then 287 morth to Helena, through rolling hills, with the moutains in the distance. This is the main road. Another scenic route is to take 89 north by the Crazy Mountains and Castle Mountains and then 12 west. This was the road we took this time. This is a picture of the Crazy Mountains at sunset. Both are really worth the ride.Close

Like many capitols in the US, Helena has its Lady Liberty atop the building, but the story of how it got there is really strange. During the "capital fight", the people responsible for the plans ran off with all the papers and records. Then, during…Read More

Like many capitols in the US, Helena has its Lady Liberty atop the building, but the story of how it got there is really strange.

During the "capital fight", the people responsible for the plans ran off with all the papers and records. Then, during construction, a statue of a goddess of liberty arrived at the Helena train station from a foundry in Ohio, with no indications of who ordered it or for what use. With the building documents gone and the fact that the company who made the statue had all their records lost in a fire, there was no way to tell, and eventually, no one claimed the abandoned goddess. The builders wanted such a statue to put on top of their building, and that's how she ended up there.