Written by Niiko on 14 Jan, 2011
The highest of the whitewashed little villages twinkling like scattered jewels across the vertiginous sides of the Poqueira gorge, Capileira - like Bubion and Pampaneira below it - boasts staggeringly beautiful views both north and southwards, up and down. From the azure hints of the…Read More
The highest of the whitewashed little villages twinkling like scattered jewels across the vertiginous sides of the Poqueira gorge, Capileira - like Bubion and Pampaneira below it - boasts staggeringly beautiful views both north and southwards, up and down. From the azure hints of the Mediterranean sea up to the summit of Mulhacen, the highest point on mainland Spain, the panorama the village commands is an astounding one.With only a little over 500 residents, Capileira really is a modestly-sized place, one built around a looping switchback of road on the way to the dizzying mountain heights. This is the last settlement on the highest road in the country, and a mile or so upwards from town, the well-maintained surface becomes rutted, dusty and spills out across the mountainside - it's not, then, a place that's on any especially well-trodden path, but its relative isolation doesn't stop plenty of tourists making the trip (perhaps 90 minutes by car from Granada, two hours from Malaga - there is public transport, but it's pretty sporadic).Why come all the way up the Sierra Nevada, then? Well, the aforementioned views from these villages are perhaps worth the effort in themselves - sunset up here demands the attention of a thousand camera lenses as clouds pool below you in the gorge and spill southwards, rolling off the mountains and flooding the valley. On top of that, Capileira's a good walking base. A number of generally well-marked trails leave from or intersect with here, and the facilities are pretty well geared towards this kind of visitor; there are plenty of well-priced restaurants, some reasonable hotels and shops, and a tourist information centre (with a handy spring outside for replenishing water bottles) that's loaded with maps and staffed by knowledgeable locals who are happy to enlighten and inform.The village is also, as the last stop on the road (which is closed-off some 17km further on, although some tours can pass the national park barrier) a great base for summit attempts of Mulhacen and Veleta, the two loftiest peaks in the Sierra Nevada. Leave your car at the barrier and it's a five-to-six hour hike to the Mulhacen summit, a walk that isn't at all technically challenging in summer, although the altitude en route to the 3450-metre peak is energy-sapping.On top of the above, Capileira's just an all-round pleasant place to be. As with many of the Alpujarran villages (those clustered here and there about the foothills of the mountain range), there's a faintly bohemian, hippyish vibe and a year-round haze of incense sticks drifting along on the breeze. Scores of handicraft shops populate this village and its siblings, and they're well-worth stopping in on, as although you'll come across countless variations on the same few themes (big rug, small rug, Arabian lantern, weird wooden table-balls ...), the quality's good and the prices decent. It shouldn't be too difficult to find accomodation here, and there's a good variety of price brackets - one or two luxuryish hotels can be found along the road that swerves sharply uphill after Pampaneira and climbs towards Bubion and Capileira, whilst there are a good number of apartments for rent; those with a terrace are wonderfully-located (and that is most houses, such is the way the villages are thrown steeply across the hillside - just about everywhere has a view).Car-parking isn't always easy in Capileira, although you can normally find a space on the edge of the village and walk in (again, it's not a big place!), while Bubion has a decent-sized clearing where you can park up a steep slope on the right as you enter.All in all, this is a fantastic place for a holiday that combines laid-back lolling in the sun, gazing out over breathtaking views with some top-notch walking in the mountains. This isn't a corner of Andalucia that's lacking in places that merit your attention as a visitor, but the Alpujarran villages should be high on anyone's list, so long as you've got a head for heights. Close
Written by LenR on 09 Dec, 2008
While the Royal Palace is the most spectacular part of the Alhambra, you shouldn’t miss the rest of the complex. The alcazaba, or citadel, its oldest part, is built on the isolated and precipitous edged plateau on the northwest of the complex. Massive outer walls,…Read More
While the Royal Palace is the most spectacular part of the Alhambra, you shouldn’t miss the rest of the complex. The alcazaba, or citadel, its oldest part, is built on the isolated and precipitous edged plateau on the northwest of the complex. Massive outer walls, towers and ramparts are all that are left of the original structure. You can climb the winding staircase to the top terrace of its watchtower, the Torre de la Vela, (25 metres high) and there are marvelous views over the city. A turret containing a large bell was added in the 18th century and restored after being damaged by lightning in 1881.It is obvious that the Alcazaba served a military function. The entrance was at the foot of the Tower of Homage. A simple L-shaped walkway keeps the main gate from being seen from the outside. The gate leads to an inner vaulted space with more turns that, at the end, opens up so that defenders could control all access and respond from above to an attack. In this covered corridor there are two access points: one leading to the ground and underground floors of the Tower of Homage, and the other to the top of the wall and to the tower itself through a narrow and steep vaulted staircase. The Alcazaba was also a residential area for the royal guard of the Sultan who controlled and patrolled the palatial city. It was actually a small city, with an urban distribution similar to that of any district of a Hispanic-Muslim city. A narrow road traverses the enclosure, dividing it into two well differentiated areas. To the north, walls and pavements are grouped following an irregular pattern with houses of different sizes: the houses were tenanted by the royal guard that lived in the enclosure with their families. On the other side, walls similar to those of the houses follow a more regular pattern, with larger open courtyards, with evidence of the presence of warehouses or halls for the soldiers and younger guards.Of the outlying buildings, the foremost in interest is the Palacio de Generalife or "Garden of the Architect". This villa probably dates from the end of the 13th century but has been restored several times. Its gardens, however, with their clipped hedges, grottos, fountains, and cypress avenues, are said to retain their original Moorish character.In the Generalife gardens you will find an enchanted atmosphere and ambience I expected from the Alhambra. The palaces and buildings were all wonderful but in the Generalife you can wander and find little corners all for yourself. The gardens were designed with certain ideas in mind to create a sense of harmony and beauty which is meant to soothe the soul and nourish the spirit. Here you will find almost a mini outdoor version of some aspects of the palaces: courtyards enclosed behind high hedges; patios and cypress trees and water in abundance. The gardens are a glorious combination of greenery, water, light and shadow and the higher you climb the better the views get. Eventually you come to the point where you are looking down on the walls and towers of the Alhambra You now need to head up the stairs into the Summer Palace. The first patio you come across is the Patio de la Acequia, built around a long rectangular pool with jets of water. From there you pass into the Patio de la Sultana where you will find the trunk of a 700 year old cyprus tree where legend has it that Abu al-Hasan caught his favorite harem girl, Zoraya, with the leader of the Abencerraj family, which led to the family being murdered at a banquet in the Sala de los Abencerrajes at the Nasrid Palace. From here you go to the upper gardens where you can see the Escalera del Agua (water staircase). Close
Written by travelprone on 06 Jun, 2004
There’s a Aljibe snack stand between the Alcazaba and the Nazarid Palace that serves excellent coffee for 1.10 euro a cup and has ready- made ham sandwiches for 2.90 euro. This is where we had lunch after we’d toured the Alcazaba and were waiting…Read More
There’s a Aljibe snack stand between the Alcazaba and the Nazarid Palace that serves excellent coffee for 1.10 euro a cup and has ready- made ham sandwiches for 2.90 euro. This is where we had lunch after we’d toured the Alcazaba and were waiting for our appointment time at the Nazarid.Palace. It is located on a wide plaza that overlooks the mountains and the city below-quite a view! Check it out on the photo. There are many benches around the area in shade under trees and it’s just a convenient spot to have a quick lunch to fortify your self before seeing the splendor of the Alhambra. For 12 euros for the three of us, we had a budget lunch and had more time to explore the Alhambra, though not enough to see the Generalife palace.
While you’re in the Catedral and Capilla Real area, do visit the Bib-Rambla, a plaza that was the site of Moorish silk making and selling during the pre-Reconquista era. This area is still known by its Moorish name, the Alcaceria. We stopped at an outdoor table at the CAFE BIB RAMBLA, # 3 on the Plaza Bib-Rambla where my husband had the "Gigante" ice cream cone shown in the photo while I merely had tiramisu. Such hardship foregoing ice cream, but tiramisu is even better I think. With a mineral water for him, the bill was 7.20 euro, and the service was efficient, We really enjoyed the beauty of this historic plaza with its numerous flower stalls and surrounding statues and fountains as a pleasant pause after our visit to the adjacent Capilla Real .
If you’re in the Allbaicin do drop by the CASA PASTELES, Plaza Larga 1 (tel 958 27 89 97). Indulge! We did - we bought six different pastries, 3 that we enjoyed in the bright, clean café, and another 3 that served as breakfast before an early morning departure the next day. Their custard filled pastries melt in your mouth and cost .80 or .85 euro a piece. Their coffee was also very good. This establishment is popular with locals and visitors alike and is open from 8-22 daily. This gleaming, clean shop is recommended by Rick Steves.
Also in the Plaza Larga is a restaurant called LA PORRONA where we had a paella lunch (OK) and my husband had the best Spanish olives he’s ever tasted. At our el fresco table, we enjoyed the comings and goings of many patrons of the Casa Pasteles on the north end of the Plaza that we visited immediately after our lunch for coffee and dessert. My partners enjoyed a pitcher of sangria that they said was refreshingly light. The tab ran under 50 euro for three. The restaurant inside is filled with flamenco memorabilia. Pictures and menu for this restaurant can be seen on this website under restaurantes.
Written by travelprone on 18 May, 2004
Veredilla de San Agustinwww.vivegranada.comOur two-story rental house in the Albaicin was my most satisfying Granada experience. My husband felt the house was a bit too rustic. Several floating tiles in need of repair were located in the hallway directly in front of the bathroom entrance;…Read More
Veredilla de San Agustinwww.vivegranada.com
Our two-story rental house in the Albaicin was my most satisfying Granada experience. My husband felt the house was a bit too rustic. Several floating tiles in need of repair were located in the hallway directly in front of the bathroom entrance; these tiles were hazardous, but since there was a hallway light we could avoid walking over them during any nocturnal "visits." The bath shower was quite small, with a small ledge on its wall side reminiscent of tubs advertised for the handicapped. I had to admit it was awkward. These were minuses, but the plusses outweighed these minuses. Two terraces and a large pool area were so spacious that these outdoor spaces were larger than the spaces inside the house that I estimate had about 1200 square feet.
When we arrived, the pool with pool sweep was a big surprise as it was not even mentioned on the web site; when we booked for $96 a night for three persons for three nights. Now the site features pictures of it. This pool area is perfect for summertime fun and there’s a walkway that connects the pool area to the upper terrace with table and chairs for eating. If one continues past this walkway one can enter a second story bedroom via a French door. This bedroom and the master bedroom share the bathroom with bath tube over tub that my husband disliked.
Off the downstairs kitchen is a grape arbor terrace with a pool bathroom-open shower, sink, and toilet. Adjacent to this terrace is an annex with twin beds in one room and living and dining furnishings in the other. This was open, but the agent said it was too cool to use during October (true).The kitchen had dishwasher, microwave, and all the cooking apparatus and serving utensils for at least five people.
In front of the kitchen and just to the right of the main entrance hallway was a small living room with color TV and dining set with chairs as well as a sofa and a couple of chairs. On the wall was a fascinating old framed map of the Alhambra and Albaicin. Under the TV was a collection of area maps, attraction brochures and the guest book full of former renters’ comments.
Did I mention the view? In the front at night a view up the hills of Sacromonte, full of gypsy caves, and a twinkle with lights demanded we take photos. Despite its blemishes, my son and I fell in love with this old dame of a casita; except for the first night, a Saturday which brought noise from two huge busloads of tourists up for a night walk of the Albaicin, I slept like a babe. Price varies according to number of people, but I consider this rental was a bargain compared to the rate at even budget hotels in the Plaza Nueva area.
Written by nickj on 16 Dec, 2000
I like Madrid mainly because I was a little homesick the other night and it provided the perfect solution for me. I was getting a bit sniffly and missing my Vegemite (see previous travelogue) and needed something from home. So I went out for dinner…Read More
I like Madrid mainly because I was a little homesick the other night and it provided the perfect solution for me. I was getting a bit sniffly and missing my Vegemite (see previous travelogue) and needed something from home. So I went out for dinner to a Japanese restaurant.
Now, I don't expect any of you to understand that one (except my brother, Richard) but it worked a treat. The miso soup alone could have sustained me for a couple of weeks and the sushi and chicken karaage were just fantastic! On the same street with the Japanese restaurant was an Irish pub, a couple of tapas bars, a Chinese restaurant and a French bakery. Now how could you not like a city that pays that much attention to good food ?
Like a lot of Spanish cities, Madrid doesn't have Eiffel towers or leaning towers or huge statues or whatnot. What it does have is an abundance of galleries, fantastic street life and interesting little bits and pieces on every corner.
To get my fix of fine art I decdided to skip the Prado which is reportedly one of the best museums in the world (it certainly had one of the best queues in the world!). Instead I concentrated on the smaller, more easily digestable Reina Sofia.
The Sofia is a modern art gallery and has works from modern Spanish artists including Picasso, Miro and Gaudi. The most important single piece is Picasso’s Guernica. Hung in a huge gallery, surrounded by some of Picasso’s preliminary sketches and no less than four armed guards, Guernica depicts German atrocities in the Spanish town of Guernica during the Spanish Civil War. The Germans bombed the town on April 26, 1937 in the full knowledge that the town had no military significance and being market day would be crowded with people from all over the country side. There were 10,000 people in the town and after three hours most of the town and the people had been annihilated. Picasso painted Guernica in Paris and insisted that it stay in France until the Fascists were thrown out and it could be returned.
I didn't like it. I don't think Picasso liked it either. It looked unfinished to me. The surrounding preliminary sketches and other works were far more emotive and chilling than the actual painting. I suspect Picasso had enough of the morbid subject about 10 minutes in and decided to pack it in. Apart from that there's some very nice pictures in the gallery (although I think Joan Miro needs her head examined)
From Madrid I also took a day trip out to Toledo. Madrid is surrounded by smaller towns in Castilla La Manche and Castilla y Leon, all of which are purported to be interesting. There is Segovia, Cuenca, Salamanca and Toledo. I picked Toledo more or less at random.
Toledo is interesting, beautiful too. It's another walled Spanish city, this time perched on a small round hill in the middle of the plains of Castilla la Mancha. It has the usual Spanish attractions of a Moorish Alcazar and a fantastic cathedral with the added bonus of a deep gorge alongside, through which the Rio Tajo runs. The town is small and a little bit tourist oriented but very pretty. The streets are cobbled and so narrow that you occasionally have to step into a doorway to allow a car to pass. The city is also full of students, foreign and domestic, who had a bit of a lively air. You can always pick the American students because they will be the ones shouting at each other from either side of the table in an otherwise silent bar/restaurant/whatever. The Spanish students are similar but have the grace to look embarrassed about it and to shut up occasionally.
I spent most of the day in Toledo wandering around taking photo's and sitting in the sun reading a book. I came back late last night and crashed into bed before getting up this morning to stroll down to the Internet cafe to reel off the latest installment of my travel saga.
Written by davidx on 04 Nov, 2002
The next day we planned to leave on the afternoon bus and Iain had found a pleasant short walk on the map, it seemed to us both. Basically it involved going upstream a short way to the nearest bridge, ascending a few hundred feet, a…Read More
The next day we planned to leave on the afternoon bus and Iain had found a pleasant short walk on the map, it seemed to us both. Basically it involved going upstream a short way to the nearest bridge, ascending a few hundred feet, a couple of miles horizontal and a drop to the next bridge then up to join the road and return on it--two to three hours of a job.
The first complication was that we were joined by a dog, a lovely and friendly mongrel. We stopped throwing a stick for him early on and believed he would return home; not so. He stayed more or less with us all day, and of course we developed a feeling of responsibility for him. We had no idea of his name so I could only address him as 'Perro' being the Spanish for dog [Iain's Spanish extended to 'por favor,' 'gracias,' and 'dos cervezas.'] There was no problem in finding the bridge--it was a very pleasant find, too. Then up, and up and up. Of paths there were none. There was no route along the main gorge and it would have meant crossing a side gorge, so we were driven further and further up.
Eventually we came above the side gorge to a manageable route along the side of the main gorge [to call it a path would be a bit grandiloquent.] Then another ascent brought us up to one of the watercourses. It was obviously carrying out its ancient function of irrigating the land and there was some agriculture--including a man with a field of sheep...and a gun! Sheep were just what a tired dog needed for stimulation and Perro almost experienced the gun as well as I got over, in execrable Spanish, first that he was not our dog and second that I would nevertheless be obliged if he were permitted to prolong his life.
The next problem must by now be apparent--no way down. This persisted for several miles and then we plunged down a narrow path which we had to re-locate several times, not knowing whether we should reach a bridge. We did, just as 'our' bus was due to leave.
After making our way back up the valley we had to go uncomfortably close to vertical up to the road and I experienced feelings that I now know to have been tachicardia. Perro never showed the slightest sign that the territory was becoming familiar as we drew nearer to Capileira.
When we had retrieved our luggage, we were just in time to get on the final bus of the day. The driver had to expel Perro who had been outside waiting for us!
Oddly enough this chapter of blunders made one of the most enjoyable walks I remember. Graded out of ten: the walk 9; our planning 1.
Written by Virago Vagabond on 19 Jun, 2005
Between hookah joints and sweet cafés, the streets of Granada are perfect for night owls. The white buildings turn to gold under the street lamps, and the walls of the Alhambra tower over everyone. And I mean everyone.
In a café, I shared some sweets and…Read More
Between hookah joints and sweet cafés, the streets of Granada are perfect for night owls. The white buildings turn to gold under the street lamps, and the walls of the Alhambra tower over everyone. And I mean everyone.
In a café, I shared some sweets and a pot of tea with a tourist from Switzerland while listening to an Asian guy play flamenco guitar. Then I chatted with the Palestinian desk clerk in my hostel before falling asleep to dream of Arabian Nights.
The next morning, my dreams became reality at the Alhambra. It is one of THE most visited places on the continent, beaten only by the Vatican, and you need to buy a ticket early to get in. The Alhambra is actually a collection of different buildings built as a palace and fortress under Arabian rule. You can see the influence in everything. Nasrid Palace will overwhelm you.
The plaster details are vast and intricate - only kings could possibly afford them.
Water was and is a luxury, and the abundance of delightful fountains - flowing down stairs, sparkling in courtyards, dancing through flower beds - is a testament to the wealth of the Alhambra rulers.
One of my favorites is the Lion Fountain. The geometry of the design is a marvel. Staring out at the city nestled in the Sierra Nevadas, I could hear the echo of hundreds of royal children playing games as their mothers primped for the sultan. I could almost see soldiers telling stories of their great battles and conquests while the sultan struts through his private garden - Generalife - and sniffs at the flowers.
Back in the real world, I was able to use the Internet for very little money, had some delicious hot chocolate - more like liquid chocolate bars - and bought a bunch of Arabian-style souvenirs for very little money. The best deals are the cool pillow cases and scarves, which are easily packed, and you can shop around and finagle for the best deals.
Written by b.e.g28 on 08 Sep, 2003
It is difficult to do justice to this stunning palace. A series of buildings, gardens, and palaces perched atop a hill above the old Muslim quarter of the town, the Alhambra has dominated Granada for centuries - the name comes from the Arabic for "red…Read More
It is difficult to do justice to this stunning palace. A series of buildings, gardens, and palaces perched atop a hill above the old Muslim quarter of the town, the Alhambra has dominated Granada for centuries - the name comes from the Arabic for "red castle" - and has a wonderful backdrop of the Sierra Nevada mountain range.
Tickets are sold on a first-come, first-served basis (although you are able to book in advance, and if you are unable to arrive early enough in person, then this may be the best way to purchase a ticket) and are snapped up extremely quickly, the queue snaking its way through a small outer building as a useful loudspeaker updates you with how many tickets are left as you are waiting!
Once you have your ticket you will be allocated AM or PM for the visit and a specific set time for the Nazaries Palace. You will not be let in any sooner to this palace than the time on your ticket, but do not be late.
Water and symmetry play a large part in the gardens and walkways and provide some stunning examples of Muslim ingenuity and sense of nature as you wander around the gardens and see how they seamlessly blend stone and plant, water and rock. Indeed, the buildings are sometimes secondary to these features.
Be aware that it is deceptively hot around the palace, and despite the gardens, there is not always a lot of shade, so hats and liquid refreshment are essential (there are not too many watering holes around the Alhambra).
If you only have a day's visit to Granada, then make the Alhambra the one place you see--you will not be disappointed.
Access is easy via the Autovia from the coast, or follow the (steep) cobbled road (Cuesta de los Chinos) from the main square, Plaza Nueva (about 20 minutes) if you're feeling energetic. You can also catch the bus (number 30 or 32).
Tickets to get into the Alhambra cost 12 euros (as of May 2003). ENJOY!
On Sunday around noon when we attempted to visit the Catedral we saw a huge throng of people in the square before it, and, deciding we couldn’t enter, turned a corner and literally ran into a procession, slow-moving, crawling to a drummed, solemn cadence, with…Read More
On Sunday around noon when we attempted to visit the Catedral we saw a huge throng of people in the square before it, and, deciding we couldn’t enter, turned a corner and literally ran into a procession, slow-moving, crawling to a drummed, solemn cadence, with human bearers carrying a huge bier with an elaborate, large crucifix adorned with vibrant, fresh flowers that was wending its way around the corner towards the front of the cathedral. It was just good fortune that we encountered this reminder of the endurance of religious fervor in the ‘new’ Granada.
My husband took a few photos and then switched to movie mode, so we could capture the procession as it began to turn the corner back to the front of the catedral where we had just been. Very hushed, the large crowd followed the progress of Madonna and then crucifix both dazzling in the sunlight. The sight of the procession suspended our awareness of time, but I would estimate the sight was before us for approximately 10 minutes. Then, just as suddenly as we had encountered it, it was gone, having turned the corner fully and become obscured by the wall of a building adjacent to where we stood.
This ritual impressed us very profoundly in its essentially Spanish expression of religious fervor. We will never know what occasioned this procession. It was the first Sunday in October, a week before October 12, Columbus Day, which is a public holiday in Spain. When Columbus returned from his first voyage to the New World he was received by his sponsors Ferdinand and Isabella in Granada at the Alhambra, so perhaps this was an early celebration of that historic event.
Afterwards, we proceeded up the street next to the catedral and discovered an internet establishment that also had private telephone booths. It was doing a brisk business for a sleepy Sunday afternoon; incidentally I noticed a sign that indicated English and Arabic were spoken there. This subtler juxtaposition between the old and new Spain marked downtown Granada from the more sharply contrasting Albaicin.
Why was I so enthusiastic about our Albaicin house? Primarily it was the contrast with renting in Barcelona’s densely populated Barri Gotic with its prevailing nocturnal sleep depriving noise. The space outside our Granada house, the lack of crowds in the Albaicin -- it was restful. Yet we were near everything we wanted to see and all the essentials we needed to purchase.
After four without-major-hitches trips to Europe, on this trip to Spain and Portugal, we were reminded more than once that the basics -- enough sleep, no anxiety about pickpockets, good transport, no illness, and no major language gaps -- profoundly affect the quality of travel experiences. My four years of high school and college Spanish and previous study of Spanish study and culture made me feel so much more comfortable in Granada and Madrid than in Barcelona and Lisbon. Granada is a quintessential repository of the Moorish heritage that so impacted Spanish architecture and art. A visit here to this relatively small city compensates the traveler with a closer vision of the religious fervor that still underlies much of the Spanish spirit. Modern internet café (also available in the Albaicin) and sophisticated tourism co-exist with strong religious commitment and participation year round in religious festivals.
I LOVED being in the Albaicin. We were located just off the main drag, Cuesta de la Chapiz. You are not isolated from modern conveniences if you stay in this old Moorish quarter; there’s a large Spar supermarket, dozens of restaurants, and every 15 minutes…Read More
I LOVED being in the Albaicin. We were located just off the main drag, Cuesta de la Chapiz. You are not isolated from modern conveniences if you stay in this old Moorish quarter; there’s a large Spar supermarket, dozens of restaurants, and every 15 minutes or so air-conditioned minibus service to the Alhambra and downtown. We just paid about US$.90 per person for each ride, but we used the bus at least 20 times, so passes would have saved us.
This is definitely not a low rent quarter. Many homes here are huge, have pools, and extensive, well- tended gardens; the quarter is old, but many homes have been modernized and this area is highly desirable to live in. Since Granada depends heavily on tourism, its local equivalent of an American chamber of commerce is well organized and aggressively publicizes the charms of its two World Heritage sites in particular. I was astonished to find so many houses and apartments for rent for as little as three days on the Vive Granada site we used.
When we arrived, I was pleasantly surprised to find we were one block from the bus stop, two from Restaurant El Ladrillo and the Tourist Office directly across from it, three blocks from a bank ATM, and about six from the Spar supermarket, which had full meat and produce sections and even a local bakery’s fresh pastry and bread counter. On arrival, we stocked up on orange juice, pastries, yoghurt, beer, water, wine, potato chips and lemon soda for 15.73 euros. Only busses, taxis, and cars of residents are allowed in the Albaicin. Between 1 and 4, most establishments other than restaurants and the Spar closed in traditional Spanish pattern.
On our forays to downtown, we felt we were entering another world much more familiar in time and tempo than the Albaicin. After hectic Barcelona the Albaicin’s restful atmosphere, and particularly our spacious outdoor patios, made me feel relaxed- no sense of claustrophobia here!
In the neighborhood we were one block from El Salvator Church, a well-known landmark. After our stay, I learned (on this website) that the courtyard in back of the Salvator church that was in back of our bus stop was the courtyard of the Great Mosque of Granada that had been razed for the church. Darn! We missed it.
I highly recommend staying in the Albaicin when you visit Granada, particularly if it's right after a large crowded city on your itinerary. Pacing yourself on a trip is quite important for you need stamina to travel well. GETTING AWAY FROM THE RAT RACE REFRESHES YOUR SPIRIT.