The monkey was gesturing at me. I swear he was. I looked over my shoulder. My husband was long gone down the trail, and there was nobody else around to see. I looked back at the monkey. He was doing…Read More

The monkey was gesturing at me. I swear he was. I looked over my shoulder. My husband was long gone down the trail, and there was nobody else around to see. I looked back at the monkey. He was doing it again! Sort of pointing at me, then flailing his arms above his head, then pointing at me again. What did it mean? Does he want me to come up for tea and bananas? Do I have something stuck in my teeth? What? This was surreal.

After my long-tailed possibly-insane friend lost interest in me, I wandered to the nearby ancient stone wall to find my hubby. I was amazed where I found him. He was in the largest plaza area that we had seen since starting our day-long exploration of Tikal National Park. Temple (Pyramid) I (44 meters) and Temple II (38 meters) stood on opposite sides of the Great Plaza. The flat grassy area in the middle served to highlight the steepness of the temple sides. To one side of the plaza was a covered excavated hole. Looking in, I saw a huge carved stone head. Wild, for sure!

History

In additions to Temples I and II, Tikal has hundreds of other structures both large and small to explore and climb. I read that originally there were over 4000 structures in the 16 square kilometer area. To make a loop around the entire area means a 10km walk at least, although one day is sufficient to see most of the site.

It is thought that this area was attractive to the Mayan people due to its location on a hill (and out of the low swamps surrounding it) and also because of the abundance of flint. Tikal was inhabited from approximately 700BC to maybe 1200-1500 AD. The disappearance of the Mayan people from Tikal, like most other ancient Mayan sites, is a mystery.

The late 1800s brought renewed interest in exploring this long-forgotten site. Numerous international archaeologists worked on excavating the area over the years, inspiring the Guatemalan government to protect the area. The 576 square miles of jungle, including the archaeological site, make up Tikal National Park. It is also a World Heritage Site.

Big ones

While the pyramids in the Great Plaza cannot be climbed – due to a couple tourists falling to their deaths in recent years – there are two other large pyramids that can be. Temple V (58 meters) was impressive for its size as well as for the nearby group of howler monkeys. Temple IV, I believe, is the most often climbed. There are vendors with cold drinks at the base. The view from the top, looking over the jungle with the tops of the other pyramids sticking out, will not be soon forgotten. Temple III is also huge, at 55 meters, but is yet uncovered.

Quiet corners

While most people congregated around the main large temples, there are plenty of quiet corners of Tikal to find some peace and solitude. One place that I especially enjoyed was Mundo Perdido, or Lost World. This is a perfect spot for journal writing or for a quiet lunch break.

Wildlife

I have already mentioned my monkey experiences at Tikal, but there is plenty of other animal life to be seen. The park is a birders paradise. The critters we saw most often were wild turkeys, and some obviously tourist-fed coatamundis. Please keep wildlife wild, and don’t feed them! It only leads to their demise.

Tips

Tikal is larger than I thought. Be prepared with good walking shoes and plenty of drinking water.

I did not find the food to be very good (plus it was very expensive) at Tikal, so I recommend bringing a lunch and snacks.

Gifts and film were also very expensive at Tikal – bring plenty of film, and save the shopping for Flores or Santa Elena.

Licensed guides are available near the steps to the museum. We did not use a guide, but I think it would be a very good experience, and not too costly. I do not know the price, but the price is per group, not per person, so the best approach to hiring a guide is to get some other people to go in with you and split the cost.

If you go without a guide, Lonely Planet recommends the book "Tikal – A Handbook of the Ancient Mayan Ruins" by William Coe, which is available at Tikal and in Flores.

How to get there

It is very convenient to hire a minibus to pick you up at your hotel for round-trip transport to and from Tikal. We did this and the price was US$5 per person. Because of the hotel pickup and dropoff (vs. walking to Santa Elena for public bus), the extensive hours of operation (vs. public bus), and the reasonable cost for the 1.5 hour ride (each way), we felt that this was a good choice for transportation. Any hotel clerk can arrange this for you.

Fees and staying overnight

Entrance Fee to Tikal National Park is US$6.25 per person. We also bought a map from the ranger for US$0.75, but I think our guidebook map would have been sufficient. Overnight accommodations are available at Tikal, but they fill up very fast. Make advance reservations. Campers will usually not have a problem getting a spot.

The sign said "If all other work is done, cuddle with the monkeys." Having seen the adorable attention-starved monkeys earlier in the day, the sign was just tempting me into signing up as a volunteer at the ARCAS Animal Rescue Center. ARCAS is located in…Read More

The sign said "If all other work is done, cuddle with the monkeys." Having seen the adorable attention-starved monkeys earlier in the day, the sign was just tempting me into signing up as a volunteer at the ARCAS Animal Rescue Center.

ARCAS is located in San Miguel town, on Lago de Peten Itza, near Flores. We decided to visit after reading a short blurb in our guidebook, and discovered that this is a gem of an organization. ARCAS, founded in 1988, is a non-profit organization that focuses on animal rescue, forest and habitat conservation, research, and environmental education. The animals at ARCAS are rescued from the illegal pet trade. Many are rehabilitated and released back into the wild. Some are injured or too tame and will live at ARCAS indefinitely (like the monkeys I mentioned above). There is a quarantine area for sick animals, a hospital, and a rehabilitation area.

How to get there

From Flores, go to the boat launch by Hotel Guacamaya. Price is 1 quetzal to cross over to San Miguel town. At San Miguel, follow the path/road up to main road, turn right. Walk 20-30 minutes to a sign saying something about conservation (there is another sign facing backwards that says ARCAS). Turn right. Walk 10-15 minutes to ARCAS sign. This is the back entrance, so you will need to follow the path all the way down to the water where the education area is and an employee is available to give tours.

You can also reach ARCAS on the organization’s boat (contact them – cost 20 quetzales/US$2.50), by chartering a boat (same price), or by kayaking to the dock. There is a sign at the dock, so it should be easy to find by kayak. You can follow my above walking directions, but go by bike instead, but expect to pay 1Q for the bike to cross on the launcha.

Tours

Our tour guide was Alfredo, and I cannot recommend him enough. He was very friendly, but could only give the tour is Spanish, so be prepared to possibly have some communication problems if you don’t speak Spanish. First he showed us some interpretive areas, most explaining at an elementary-school level the need for conservation of the forests and protection of the environment. Next, we saw the monkeys and some other animals that are some of the permanent residents of ARCAS. The animals appeared to be well cared for, but unfortunately, the cages they lived in were far too small. Alfredo explained that they want to build a large enclosure in the woods, when they get enough money from donations.

Next, we had a long relaxing chat down by a wetland area with many birds. We talked with Alfredo about everything. He was the first Guatemalan person that we had an extended conversation with. It was really great to learn more about the people, their lifestyle, the area, and more about ARCAS work. The hospital, rehabilitation, and quarantine areas were shown to us briefly.

Our tour lasted 2 hours, and we had Alfredo’s undivided attention for the whole time. We really felt like honored guests. The requested donation is 10 quetzales/US$1.25 per person, but feel free to give more. After our tour, Alfredo said we could stay and swim off the dock if we wanted. Tempting – it is a really pretty and peaceful area, but we decided to head back.

Volunteering

Volunteers are welcome at any time at ARCAS Peten. Cost is $100 per week (minimum 1 week commitment) and includes all meals (they have their own café and cook) and lodging. The work is not glamorous – mainly feeding the animals, cleaning cages, chores, and construction projects. If your timing is right, you could possibly help with research or animal releases. I know that many folks think that if they are volunteering they shouldn’t also have to pay, but in this case I think it is essential to the organization. They need to have some income also, and this is just a way to earn some money for the good of the animals. Worth it, I think!

ARCAS – Project Hawaii

On the Pacific Coast, near the town of Monterrico, ARCAS has project Hawaii. This project protects sea turtles and other animals, and works on mangrove reforestation. There is a park for visitors, and volunteers are welcome for minimum one week commitment. Cost to volunteer is $50 per week to cover lodging (kitchen available). Volunteers primarily patrol at night during nesting season to collect turtle eggs or release hatchlings, but may also help with construction projects, research, environmental education, and planting mangroves. See website (listed below) for directions.

Volunteers for both projects can usually show up without prior contact.

Contact information:

Asociación de Recate y Conservación de Vida Sivilestre
ARCAS – Administration Office
Zona 8 Mixco
San Cristobal GUATEMALA
(502)478-4096
www.arcasguatemala.com
email: arcas@intelnet.net.gt

ARCAS – Peten Office
Biblioteca ARCAS
Barrio de la Ermita, San Benito
Peten GUATEMALA
(502)926-0946
email: arcaspeten@hotmail.com

Situated in the northern part of Guatemala, the ruins of Tikal are considered by many to be the best remaining examples of Mayan architecture around. They are certainly the hottest. As we climbed onboard the battered minibus in Flores at 5am the air was thick…Read More

Situated in the northern part of Guatemala, the ruins of Tikal are considered by many to be the best remaining examples of Mayan architecture around. They are certainly the hottest.

As we climbed onboard the battered minibus in Flores at 5am the air was thick with anticipation. Even the driver, slumped half-asleep over the wheel with headphones hanging from his ears, failed to quell the feeling of adventure. Each traveller was lost in their own thoughts and the conversation was minimal as we left the small town and headed out into morning mist.

As the bus, laden with well-fed westerners and their backpacks, struggled up a hill, we entered the jungle. The anticipation was heightened by yellow warning signs at the side of the road. The first showed the shape of a rattle-snake, the second the unmistakable outline of a jaguar, while the third was surely the silhouette of a turkey? This worried me: what are these jungle tukeys and should I be afraid of them? What do you do if faced by an angry jungle turkey?

I didn't have time to mull it over, we had arrived. Clambering out ungracefully, we made our way to the gate. We passed two silent guards holding pump-action shotguns in the shade of a tree. It was 8am and already it was sweltering. The man at the gate said '42 dollars' in broken english. Piecing together the last of our notes and coins we paid and walked in.

From the first moment, when we were shaken by the terrifying roar of a group of nearby howler monkeys, we knew we were somewhere special. To get to the different temples you had to walk through dense jungle, most of the time alone. The thought of jungle turkeys had left our minds, but the thought of the jaguar was running strong.

The crowning glory of the trip was climbing Temple IV and looking out over the jungle. It was jungle in all directions, with only the tips of a few of the other temples breaking the green sea. This was the king of Mayan ruins, this was something else.

Practicalities

* You don't have to wake with the rooster at 5am. Buses leave every hour up to midday.
* Bring a big bottle of water with you. If all else fails they do sell snacks around the park.
* Bring some footwear that's comfortable to walk in. Flip flops didn't quite cut it for me.
* Give yourself 2/3 hours to explore, and remember if you miss the midday bus home, there isn't another for two hours. Alternatively you can pay one of the waiting drivers to get back to Flores if you can spare the cash.Close