For the first time in our 7 years traveling to Aruba, we had friends who were also staying on the island for part of our trip. They had never been to our little desert paradise, so w spent a day showing them the sites.…Read More

For the first time in our 7 years traveling to Aruba, we had friends who were also staying on the island for part of our trip. They had never been to our little desert paradise, so w spent a day showing them the sites. We started by driving north from their hotel along the coast, through the Malmok and Arashi neighborhoods until we arrived at the California Lighthouse. They enjoyed seeing the view of both the high rise and low rise hotel areas, and it was their first taste of the Aruban "outback." They were definitely surprised at the dry, desert landscape!

We left the lighthouse and headed slightly south to the Alto Vista Chapel. The chapel is the oldest in the Caribbean that still operates for worship. Some said prayers and we took a few photos and then hopped back in the car. We drove a short way on a few dirt roads heading toward the coast to give them their first taste of the windward side of the island. The ocean is rough here and crashes against the limestone cliffs - it's breathtaking, always.

We then head south through the interior of the island. We saw a sign for the Casibiri Rock formation, which in 7 years somehow my husband and I have never stopped at! It was much more than I expected - there are rock formations on both sides of the road - the one on the side that also houses a small restaurant was smaller, but they had built a nice set of decks and stairs, and though we were there during the day you could see they light it up at night. On the other side of the road there was a nice park with landscaping and bathrooms. The rock formations here were much larger – the largest you can climb to the top and enjoy a great view of the interior of the island, and a spectacular view of Mt. Hooiberg.

We left Casibiri and continued our drive south, all the way down to Baby Beach. We got out and looked around for a bathroom, but there were no public restrooms. A little disappointing, since the island seems to have spent a great deal returning this beach to its former glory. There were beach tents for rent, a restaurant right on the beach (Big Mama’s Grill) and many more people than I remember seeing in the past.
From Baby Beach it was north along the windward coast. We passed the biggest herd of wild goats I had ever seen on the island; their population seems to have almost quadrupled in only a year. We saw the windmills, then entered the National Park (the fee has increased to $8.00 US per person) and stopped at two of the three main caves. At the Fontein Cave there were tour guides who gave a nice tour of the cave and a little Arawak Indian history as well. The drive from the caves out of the National Park was picturesque, and as we left we headed east towards Oranjestaad. We stopped for lunch at Iguana Joe’s for some good, cheap food and sat on the balcony watching the cars, boats and people down below. It was a great day!
   Close

Restaurants around the Island- the food and service in general was great. We didn’t have one bad meal!Gianni’s- We had a great meal here. We both had rigatoni- mine was four cheese and my husband had it with peas and artichoke hearts.…Read More

Restaurants around the Island- the food and service in general was great. We didn’t have one bad meal!

Gianni’s- We had a great meal here. We both had rigatoni- mine was four cheese and my husband had it with peas and artichoke hearts. We ordered the brownie for dessert and it was one of the best I ever had. The service here was great. We did have a bit of delay to be seated because they lost power. But we just enjoyed drinks at the bar until they got their generator running. I do have to say that this was a large restaurant directly across from the high rise area and I felt like I was still in America. It did not have much of a Caribbean ambiance.

Chef’s Table- Another great meal! I had the fish and chips and my husband had the creamy fish soup and a duck special. All were delicious. Then for dessert they had little shot glasses of sweets that you could order. I had a strawberry cheesecake one that was delicious and a chocolate and vanilla one that was just ok. My husband enjoyed his apple pie and chocolate mousse varieties. We loved the ambiance of this restaurant- we sat in the outdoor courtyard and I felt more like I was in the Caribbean here.

El Gaucho- This was our favorite meal of the trip. Probably the best steak I have ever had! I had never had Argentinian beef before—I wish you could get it in the US! I had the petite filet, and it was only $20 including the sides (but not salad). I was very surprised that it was that inexpensive. My husband had the ribeye (much more expensive than mine) and he also said it was one of the best steaks he had ever had. My sides were just ok, but my husband really enjoyed his. For dessert we had the cheesecake which was great.

Rum Reef- we had lunch in this outdoor restaurant near Baby Beach. The colorful lizards running around were very entertaining. We both had burgers and fries which were good. Make sure you only order one side of fries for two people though, because the portions were large!
   Close

Baby Beach is located on the south eastern tip of Aruba by Seroe Colorado, and for good reason it is one of the local favorites. The beach has a breakwater surrounding the southern and eastern sides to break up the surf and as a result,…Read More

Baby Beach is located on the south eastern tip of Aruba by Seroe Colorado, and for good reason it is one of the local favorites. The beach has a breakwater surrounding the southern and eastern sides to break up the surf and as a result, this beach is calm and maybe up to six feet deep in the deepest spots. It looks like a HUGE beach pool and you can walk hundreds of yards into it without getting over your head. It is fantastic! The beach sand is powder white and the water is aqua blue. Gorgeous!

We make the road trip to Baby Beach from the western resort area a couple of days each time we visit because this beach is so inviting and relaxing. There are palapas along the beach that you can use, two snack bar / grills (including a new one called Big Mama's), and rental loungers are available as well. We recommend renting the loungers and sitting them in or near the water while you relax away your tensions.

We also really enjoy people watching on this beach because of the rich diversity of the people, extended Dutch / Aruban families, tourists from all over the world, even dogs. On one of the days we went to Baby Beach there was a school retreat at the beach with all the local children dressed in their uniforms playing on the beach and having a ball. It was quite a sight! We even met a young Dutch couple on their Honeymoon and enjoyed a nice conversation about home in Amsterdam, their future plans, and their desire to see California. We exchanged e-mail addresses, and who knows? Maybe we'll see them again in the near future if they come to California or we go to Amsterdam!

Snorkeling is one of the big draws at Baby Beach, but for my time money it is just floating around in the water being caressed and slowly swayed around by the light current. The days are warm, the beach sand in white powder, the water is aqua blue and cool, and the the place is big enough that you can wade out and be by yourself. What can be better than that?

To get there from the resort area we recommend renting a car and taking Highway 4, passing through Paradera. When you reach Highway 1, turn left and pass through Savaneta and St. Nicolas, past the Valero Refinery until you reach Seroe Colorado (signage is limited, but if you follow the your nose you'll find it). Follow the road through the little town and turn left past Roger's Beach until you reach the parking area. There is now a Baby Beach sign at the beach - so you'll know when you get there!   Close

"One Happy Island" is the motto here, on an island that is only 20 miles long and 6 miles wide, with a population of fewer than 90,000. Located right off the coast of Venezuela (17 miles north), Aruba is a Dutch island with beautiful…Read More

"One Happy Island" is the motto here, on an island that is only 20 miles long and 6 miles wide, with a population of fewer than 90,000. Located right off the coast of Venezuela (17 miles north), Aruba is a Dutch island with beautiful beaches, overly friendly people, and incredible weather. Because it’s located out of the hurricane belt, Aruba receives the least amount of rain in all of the Caribbean, and it’s average year-round temperature is generally 85 degrees. It’s predominantly a desert-like kind of an island, where cactus grow out of rocks towering 20 feet or higher. Languages spoken here are Dutch, Papiamento, English, and Spanish. The dollar is accepted everywhere, but their local currency is the Aruban Florin (AFL). All the trees on the island (including the Divi Divi) lean northward due to the trade winds, which blow from the south. We were told by several locals to just follow the way the trees point if we were ever lost, and we would be lead back to the hotel strip. It worked like a charm every time. Those trade winds often get you in some serious trouble, since you don’t realize how hot it is out. We were red as tomatoes the entire trip because it was so comfortable, and it never occurred to us to get out of the sun.

Cabbies all charge the same flat rate, so no worries about being cheated by anyone. It cost us about $20 to get from the airport to the Marriott, which is ways past most of the other hotels. Most of the cab drivers here are fluent in at least four languages, which we thought was interesting. There are buses, bushalte, and they do run frequently, so that is always an option at $1.25. In the high-rise section, they run continuously every 20 minutes along the strip. Many natives honk their horns, and at first, we had no idea what was going on. Unlike most cities, here honking your horn is equivalent to saying hello without actually throwing your body out your window and screaming, I suppose. Everyone does it, so if you choose to rent a car, understand this before you let it get to you. Overall driving here does not seem difficult, everyone is very polite. The signs are very general, so that can pose a problem, but if you are willing to stop and ask people, it is fairly easy to get from A to B. I would say that renting a car is really not necessary, since cabs are affordable and the buses are great. If it is your wish to rent a car, however, that can be done through your concierge or through some of the major car rental companies like Dollar or Hertz, which are located on the island. When we were there, cars were about $60 a day.

Making a phone call with a calling card was almost impossible, as none of the phones in the Marriott would accept them (I bought the card in Aruba). We had to walk to the local phone company and use a pay phone there—that was an interesting experience, to say the least. The phone company's office was air-conditioned and very clean, and believe me when I tell you that we weren’t the only tourists there. I almost question if that is their way to make extra money—selling calling cards that you can only use there.

In Aruba, there are three main areas to stay in: Oranjestad, the low-rise hotel area, and the high-rise hotel area. Although there are areas like Tierra Del Sol, which is next to the island’s championship golf course, this area is more for people who own condos. Oranjestad is Aruba’s capital, with a population of 18,000, and is the area where cruise ships dock and where the majority of boutiques, restaurants, casinos, and pedestrian traffic are located. There are not as many souvenir shops here as you would find on most other Caribbean islands, but I wasn’t impressed with the shopping overall. There is a fairly big mall downtown (Royal Plaza Mall) that had all familiar stores, and the prices were in line with what we pay at home, if not a little higher. The best shops are on Havenstraat and Emmastraat. There’s lots of jewelry and porcelain (like Lladro) here, as well. The few finds I did come across were European makeup and lotions and, of course, liquor. There is no sales tax here, but there are other taxes that you should look at your hotel bill for: 6% government tax and an 11% hotel tax.

The low-rise hotel area is like a summer town and is filled with buildings that are four stories or smaller. This area covers beaches like Eagle, Manchebo, Bushiri, and Druif. In general, people refer to this entire area as Eagle Beach, since it is not clear to visitors where one beach ends and the other begins. The high-rise area, which is also called Palm Beach, begins about a quarter mile after Eagle Beach ends. This area is filled with top-of-the-line resorts with immaculate grounds, as well as some moderately priced finds. The Marriott is located at the very end of this beach. The beaches in general here are fantastic: pure white sand, kept extremely clean, with turquoise blue water everywhere you look. We did visit the Hyatt just to see what the hype was about, and it is a nice hotel. I actually know people who have stayed there and said the same. I do feel, however, that the Marriott is much better for a whole slew of reasons. Primarily, its location deters "outside tourists" (people who aren’t staying at the Marriott) from coming to use your beach and/or pool. Nothing irks me more then paying for a resort and sharing lounge chairs with people who don’t belong. Secondly, because of its location, the beach is the widest and most clean around (the wide factor is a fact, not my opinion). The Hyatt’s style and setup here is very similar to those located in other tropical locations, like Maui—with tropical birds, tropical plants, small ponds, and attempts at a jungle feel. It misses, by the way. The grounds are beautiful, though, and the hotel itself is nice. I just didn’t think it was worth double the hotel price to stay there.

Aruba has an unbelievably low crime rate, and unemployment almost does not exist. That said, we were never bothered by people begging for money or vendors trying to make the hard sell, and we were never afraid to be anywhere on the island by ourselves or at night. It’s no wonder that Aruba has the highest repeat-visitor rate in all of the Caribbean. I think the amount of timeshares also has something to do with it. That said, this is a great place to take a timeshare tour, since the gifts are generous and they have so many people interested, the meetings are short and to the point. There are many tour operators on the island, and many you will find lurking around the cruise ships to entice people getting off, but these were recommended to us by the Marriott Concierge: Aruba Adventures (www.arubaadventures.com), De Palm Tours (www.depalm.com), and WIX Tours (www.wixtours.com). All of these operators run tours throughout the day and are reasonable priced and in line with what everyone else charges.

If you have more than two days, I would spend a half-day on a tour. The island is small and easy to cover in half a day, and this way, you can leave knowing you saw all there was. Although we are not golfers or gamblers, both are in big supply on this island. I think Aruba is so popular because, unlike most of the Caribbean, it has a nightlife, and it has other things to do besides just water sports. The people are great, as is the food—every place was better than the last. Overall, it’s a great island for a few days or longer; just be mindful of the sun. Everything is closed on Sundays here (for the most part). Highly Recommended.

Casibari Rock Formations - This is ranked the second most popular tourist spot, after the Natural Bridge. Take Tanki Highway 4A to Ayo via Route 6A; watch for the turnoff signs near the center of the island on the way to the windward side (just…Read More

Casibari Rock Formations - This is ranked the second most popular tourist spot, after the Natural Bridge. Take Tanki Highway 4A to Ayo via Route 6A; watch for the turnoff signs near the center of the island on the way to the windward side (just north of Hooiberg). This area is filled with huge boulders, some of which weigh several tons and feature peculiar forms created by the eternal trade winds. Some people say that the boulders look like animals—that, I didn’t see. Geologists are uncertain about their origins, but they think that a collision of the tectonic plates forced the massive slabs to the surface. The limestone steps surrounding them are signs of the changing water levels of the Caribbean through the ages.

In more recent years, the Government of Aruba created walking trails and steps through the boulders so that visitors could climb to the top and enjoy the view of the island, as well as the cruise ships when in port in Oranjestad. While climbing up, the main path to Casibari has steps and handrails, and you must move through tunnels and along narrow steps and ledges to reach the top. I will say that in some areas, these railings are a blessing, as part of the hike up is steep. It’s the kind of situation where only one person can pass at a time, so periodically you will see groups of people waiting for the "line" of people to pass. Once at the top, it’s interesting but far from spectacular. At the end of the day, you are in a desert, and although the area is surrounded by tropical plants and trees, most of it is dirt and rocks (see picture below). I don’t want to downplay this sight to the point where someone would not go, as it is interesting. I just think that some people build these attractions up and then are disappointed when they get there.

There is a souvenir and drink stand at Casibari, as well. If you are short on time and it’s a matter of going to see this or relaxing on the beach, relaxing on the beach gets my vote. There’s no charge for "admission", and there are no hours of operation. It’s not ideal for people with small children or the elderly who need help walking. Somewhat Recommended.

Natural Pool – Also known as "Cura di Tortuga," this spot is a "secret" secluded pool on the windward coast of the island. The pool is filled by waves that crash into the rocky cliffs. The look and feel is like a Jacuzzi, since the water tends to be warmer than that of the ocean.

Getting there is a little tough, seeing as there are no street signs to direct you, and the published maps are unreliable. Find "Parke National Arikok" on a map or via a sign. The road to the Natural Pool is on a secondary road that is close to the park’s main access road. This secondary road is not well-marked, although there are some handmade signs along the way. Once the road turns and you pass a house, there will be another sign that reads, "Trail to Natural Pool 20 minutes on 4x4 or 40 minutes on foot." That’s the way to go, and at that point, you know you are headed the right direction (whereas most of the hike, you have no idea). This all seems silly, and you might say to yourself, "We’ll just follow other people…" It’s not that easy, though, since this tourist spot is not as highly visited as the Natural Bridge, let’s say. Therefore, it is possible for you to be hiking and not see anyone else until you get to the actual pool. The only way to reach the initial trail is by four-wheel drive or horseback—that in itself cuts the amount of visitors down significantly. Locals say the best way to get here, though, is via an ATV due to the two- to three-mile drive over extremely rough terrain (basically all rocks).

Surrounded by rocks, this is a perfect area for relaxation. Getting in and out of the pool can be slippery, so bring supportive sneakers or water shoes. The area is very remote, obviously, so go prepared with food, drinks, and film, as this is a great spot for some dramatic shots. Another must is to bring snorkel equipment to experience the true beauty of the natural pool's variety of beautiful tropical fish (fins not needed). Obviously, there’s no charge to visit and no set visiting hours. To be honest, it’s a lot of work for nothing spectacular, other than the views. Many people who make the hike out here do so only for the views and never bother going into the actual pool. This is another place I would pass up if I was short on time. This is not for people who have trouble walking or for families, as there is no place to put strollers, and it’s almost impossible to carry them (plus, there are too many rocks, so you’d end up holding the child the entire time). Somewhat Recommended.

Aruba Marriott Resort - L.G. Smith Blvd. 101, Palm Beach, Aruba – 800/223-6388. This is located 7 miles southeast of the Queen Beatrix Airport and is about a $20 cab ride. It is much nicer then most people give it credit for…Read More

Aruba Marriott Resort - L.G. Smith Blvd. 101, Palm Beach, Aruba – 800/223-6388.

This is located 7 miles southeast of the Queen Beatrix Airport and is about a $20 cab ride. It is much nicer then most people give it credit for – it is usually the second choice for people traveling here, second only to the Hyatt (although I can’t figure out why). Featuring over 400 rooms, 20 suites, 4 restaurants, 2 tennis courts, an 18-hole championship golf course, spa, salon, health club, dive shop, casino, and so much more, this is the place to stay while in Aruba. With an ideal beachfront location, but towards the end of the hotel "strip," this hotel offers immaculate surroundings and more privacy than any of the other resorts around. In fact, it is so far along the strip that cruise people (people who sail into Aruba on a cruise and have no business being at your hotel’s pool or beach) take cabs to the Hyatt to spend the day there – not the Marriott. It is also important to mention that the pristine, white beach is wider then the rest of the other hotels because of the location.

An eight-story, u-shaped building that is set next to Marriott’s huge timeshare property, the Surf & Ocean Club, has tons of palm trees, a waterfall, swim-up pool bars, and iguanas walking around like they are a guest’s pet. Of the four restaurants, there is the island’s best Italian one – Tuscany. The lobby has lots of trees, a mini "bridge" over a small pond, shops, and several large seating areas. There is a bar in the lobby done in all wood that almost looks like a large gazebo. The lobby was packed from morning until night during our entire trip. I’m sure some of that had to do with the fact that the casino is right off the lobby. The casino consists of mostly slot machines with a few card tables mixed in. It is always packed and convenient if you are staying in the hotel and want to gamble.

The Marriott has the most spacious rooms in all of Aruba, with huge bathrooms and 100-square-foot balconies. Rooms include all standard amenities, like a hair dryer, iron, coffeemaker, safes, and minibar, and they also offer bathrobes, a separate tub and shower, double sinks, and satellite television. Housekeeping was excellent, with unsolicited turn-down service, and all rooms had Internet access.

The spa was my only complaint with this hotel. They screwed up my reservation, and when I didn’t show for the wrong time, they charged me. When I went in for the time I booked, not only did they start a fight about it and refuse to try and accommodate me at that point or for another day, but they still refused to refund that charge. After a lengthy argument with the hotel’s general manager, the charge was refunded, but come on… for $100. Needless to say, I never went back for a massage, but I can say the staff was not very competent.

If you choose to take the Surf & Ocean Club’s timeshare tour, the Marriott will offer you $100 in gift certificates. These certificates can be used at almost every restaurant on the island, as well as towards any Marriott Hotel activity. The presentation included juices and pastries and only lasted 1 hour. Out of all of the timeshare presentations we have done, this "prize" was definitely the most flexible and the presentation was the easiest to get out of quickly.

The concierge was always busy but managed to be helpful and took care of all of our reservations for us. The pool area was spacious and filled with palm trees, bananas trees, (huge) iguanas, and a very friendly staff. Spots in the sun were obviously taken early in the day, so I would head out first thing to get yourself a good seat. We would go there before breakfast and drop our stuff (which I know is annoying, but if everyone else is doing it…).

If you are interested in a beach hut, it’s first come, first serve for free, or you can reserve in advance for a full day charge of $15. The hotel splits the huts in half (half for prepaying guests and half for people looking to get them free), and I can tell you that all of the free huts are gone by 7:35am (the desk opens at 7:30am). So if your idea of a fun day is sitting on the beach, you might consider booking in advance and taking your time to get there. There is an activities desk on the beach, and they offer every possible water sport you could look for. I would also like to mention that, unlike most other Caribbean and Mexican destinations, there are no vendors on this beach, so you can relax in peace.

The breakfast buffet at La Vista restaurant was $17 a person; of course everyone but us had the meal plan where breakfast was included. I will say that the buffet was extensive, and the restaurant had nice indoor ocean views. To me, $17 is a lot for breakfast but often we weren’t hungry come lunchtime. Plus, I find it interesting that we just came back from Cabo, where the breakfast was almost $30 a person!!!! There is a beach bar just past the pool that serves a nice lunch (average resort prices) with a fun crowd. At night that area turns into a romantic restaurant with live music – definitely a must-stop if for nothing else than a drink. This is highly recommended.

"Beach erosion, reef destruction, pollution, the depletion of natural resources, habitat loss and decline in scenic amenities are but a few aspects of environmental degradation which can seriously affect the economic development of small island nations dependent on tourism. "In the last decade the island…Read More

"Beach erosion, reef destruction, pollution, the depletion of natural resources, habitat loss and decline in scenic amenities are but a few aspects of environmental degradation which can seriously affect the economic development of small island nations dependent on tourism.

"In the last decade the island of Aruba has experienced all of the above problems when, after the closure of the refinery in 1985, the economy was revived by a massive tourism expansion program which resulted in the local industry tripling its room capacity."

SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT AND TOURISM IN ARUBA
Islander Magazine, Issue 4 (July 1997) My hazy, optimistic pre-trip expectations of what Aruba would be like ran smack into the reality of the island. As Jake Ryan has pointed out in his honest journal on Jamaica, the tourist industry performs a disservice to travelers when it promotes overly-glossy, romanticized images of the Caribbean. While I’m not necessarily comparing Aruba to Jamaica, the two islands share one essential trait: They are both dependent on tourism for their economic survival.

Now the question I should have asked myself beforehand was what kind of place would result from this. Had I been a more savvy, less gullible traveler, I would have taken the trouble to learn a little objective information about the island I was about to visit. I focused on glowing accounts at tourist sites of Aruba’s lovely white sand beaches.

What I didn’t realize, however, is that the island has undergone almost a complete transformation in the past 17 years, making a stunning transition from an island almost completely dependent economically on the oil industry to one dependent on tourism.

The facts are these. According to a United Nations Development Programme report:
"Aruba's tourism development strategy is of relatively recent origin and is widely held to be a success story, if not economic a "miracle". In 1985, Aruba embarked on a strategy of tourism development increasing the number of hotel rooms from a little over 2000 rooms (2208) in that year to around 7,000 (6,843) by 1996. The number of visitors grew from around 200,000 visitors to 641,000 by the end of 1996, exclusive of cruiseship day visitors." Stop and think about that for a minute. In a little over a decade, the number of visitors increased three-fold, not including the masses of people who disembark from cruise ships. It’s a small island, with almost all the development concentrated along the west coast. What would the consequences of this rapid change be?

I won’t say I found Aruba especially crowded (we visited offseason), except when cruise ships disgorged masses of day-trippers in Oranjestad. Nor will I say that the overall Aruban tourist experience is unpleasant. It's all very benign, almost bland in its careful cultivation. Aruba has taken great pains to draw tourists in, but some of the things that were selected as tourist "draws" are, in my book, complete turn-offs.

Take, for example, the numerous casinos. I’ve got nothing against gambling; in fact, I occasionally enjoy a day at the racetrack. But slot machines, blackjack tables and late-night casino action have limited appeal to travelers like me whose primary interests are local culture and a healthy natural environment. On the contrary, this sort of tourist development, much in evidence on Aruba, panders shamelessly to the "party hearty" booze-cruisers. In fact, there's a symbiotic relationship between Caribbean ports-of-call like Oranjestad and the massive Carnival-style cruise ships that belly up to the docks. The ports trick themselves out into frothy theme parks, full of glitter and attention-grabbing attractions, all no farther than six blocks (your average passenger's walking tolerance, apparently) of the dock.

Okay, I know. Booze cruisers are entitled to their pleasures, too. There’s no ocean near Vegas, so perhaps it was fate that some island would become the self-styled "Vegas of the Caribbean." I just wish it hadn’t been Aruba.

Another problem results from the development of major American brand-name resorts. Maybe I’m atypical – in fact, I know I am, because Aruba has a lot of happy return visitors – but I just can’t see the appeal of coming to stay in a cookie-cutter Hyatt or Marriott resort. Why not just stay in one in the U.S., if that's your thing? There was nothing about them that seemed to me even remotely "Aruban." From what I could tell, there isn’t much overall difference between staying in Aruba and staying in, say, Florida, except Florida is a lot closer.

No doubt, some bright spark on the Aruban planning commission was responsible for this, having done his homework on what drew tourists in like gangbusters back in the USA. They’ve obviously sought to cash in on the growing demand for pre-fabricated, all-inclusive, stress-free vacations. Is this a good thing? It depends on your perspective, I guess.

One of my main issues with Aruba is the way it is promoted. Here are some of the terms I personally focussed on while looking at tourist information: "pristine coastline," "dynamic culture," "natural wonders," "ruggedly scenic landscape," "protected underwater park." It’s what I chose to focus on, I’ll admit. If I’d looked just a little harder, I would have realized that the windswept, rugged island image didn’t mesh with the casinos and Americanized resorts I knew were there. Oil and water, so to speak.

I have no legitimate quarrel with Aruba's decision to set itself up to draw in the greatest number of tourists, though unfortunately they seem to have set the bar for the lowest common denominator. By agressively developing its tourist industry Aruba went from having 21% unemployment after the closure of the oil refinery to no unemployment. Aruba must actually import labor from South America, neighboring islands, and the Netherlands to support the tourist industry.

My concern is that the waves of outsiders visiting and working on the island have diluted the local culture to the point of no return. There's evidence that the influx is causing an increase in crime and social tension. I heard Arubans grumbling about South Americans, South Americans grumbling about the Dutch, and the Dutch deploring - without going into cultural specifics - the general "decline" of the island. Clearly, the much-touted tourist slogan "One Happy Island" is true only if the smiling demeanor of Arubans that tourists come into contact with is taken at face value.

Cultural issues aside, tourism has definitely had a negative impact on the island’s ecology, despite some recent enlightened (in comparison to other Caribbean islands) environmental policies. But it may have been a case of too little, too late. To quote again from the Islander Magazine article: "Government macro-economic policy in Aruba does not adequately address socio-economic factors and does not recognize the necessity of limits to growth, which is essential to sustainable development…

"National environmental policy in Aruba should recognize tourism as the mainstay of the Aruban economy and set a limit to growth by instituting a ceiling for the receptive capacity (number of hotel rooms and number of annual visitors), allow community participation in decision making, stress long term planning, institute environmental restoration and protection, and emphasize quality over quantity. It should also target less damaging ways to raise net tourist revenue in national strategic tourism marketing plans." [Emphasis mine] In closing, I'll just say that something important happened to me in Aruba, though I feel a little sheepish admitting it. For the first time, I started thinking very seriously about the impact of my own actions as a tourist. When I came back to the U.S., I started to research the effects of tourism on the Caribbean and was dismayed by what I found. I was startled to read, for example, that while the average Aruban household generates 170 liters of waste water per day, that the average hotel room generates 840 liters. No wonder Aruba has waste disposal problems! While I’d always prided myself in being a fairly responsible tourist, it took Aruba to really bring home to me what can happen to a small, contained environment in a very short time.

Although there is now a moratorium on building more resorts in Aruba, the moratorium unfortunately does not apply to projects which had already been approved before it took effect. And here is the irony: At a certain point, people like me become completely disinterested in visiting places like Aruba. Over-development essentially kills the goose that lays the golden eggs. When the tourists leave, the local people are left with... what? A despoiled island.

I enjoyed my visit to Aruba in many ways, but I don't picture myself going back there, at least not until I’m sure my visit will do something for the island itself rather than merely add to some resort developer’s bank account.

Postscript: For an honest appraisal of tourism's effects, I urge you to read "The Politics of Travel," a ground-breaking critique of tourism which appeared in The Nation in 1997.

Aruba offered endless possibilities for sightseeing, especially on the northeast side of the island, like indulgent pleasures and thrilling adventures in a Jeep. It is a small island, but it has natural beauty with well-worn footprints of international explorers and many honeymooners.We hit the back…Read More

Aruba offered endless possibilities for sightseeing, especially on the northeast side of the island, like indulgent pleasures and thrilling adventures in a Jeep. It is a small island, but it has natural beauty with well-worn footprints of international explorers and many honeymooners.

We hit the back roads on a guided tour in our private rented Jeep and definitely tasted the sand and dust in our mouths. We had no A/C or a working radio, but the sights were worth the ride. We toured the natural bridges and were amazed at the natural formations. They are truly breathtaking. Beginning about 1 million years ago, limestone formations developed cracks through which fresh water passed and dissolved the rocks, ultimately creating the natural bridges. We splashed down around by the biggest natural bridge and felt the crashing waves wash up against us.

Next we visited the oldest and most sacred Catholic chapel, Alto Vista Chapel, on the island, still used today for special ceremonies. It lies on top of a hill overlooking the island and miles abroad. The Stations of the Cross lead the way up, while the "Our Father" lead you down.

Overlooking Aruba stands the California Lighthouse, made completely from natural stones found on the island. We drove along the beautiful seaside cliffs that are occasionally visited by fishermen. We climbed through the Gold Mine Ruins and felt the history beneath our feet. We built our own wishing cairn among the millions of others with hopes that our dreams would come true. Next, we headed into the caves to hear the fruit bats surround us, but also to see the ancient cave drawings along the ceiling.

Last, our journey ended at Baby Beach, the most beautiful beach we have ever experienced. You can literally walk out over 1 mile and still only be up to your knees in the ocean. It is like floating in a large bathtub. It is clear azure water. The pristine ivory beach and cooling trade winds left us with wonderful memories of that journey.

"One Happy Island" is the motto here, on an island that is only 20 miles long and 6 miles wide, with a population of fewer than 90,000. Located right off the coast of Venezuela (17 miles north), Aruba is a Dutch island with beautiful beaches,…Read More

"One Happy Island" is the motto here, on an island that is only 20 miles long and 6 miles wide, with a population of fewer than 90,000. Located right off the coast of Venezuela (17 miles north), Aruba is a Dutch island with beautiful beaches, overly friendly people, and incredible weather. Because it’s located out of the hurricane belt, Aruba receives the least amount of rain in all of the Caribbean, and it’s average year-round temperature is generally 85 degrees. It’s predominantly a desert-like kind of an island, where cactus grow out of rocks towering 20 feet or higher. Languages spoken here are Dutch, Papiamento, English, and Spanish. The dollar is accepted everywhere, but their local currency is the Aruban Florin (AFL). All the trees on the island (including the Divi Divi) lean northward due to the trade winds, which blow from the south. We were told by several locals to just follow the way the trees point if we were ever lost, and we would be lead back to the hotel strip. It worked like a charm every time. Those trade winds often get you in some serious trouble, since you don’t realize how hot it is out. We were red as tomatoes the entire trip because it was so comfortable, and it never occurred to us to get out of the sun.

Cabbies all charge the same flat rate, so no worries about being cheated by anyone. It cost us about $20 to get from the airport to the Marriott, which is ways past most of the other hotels. Most of the cab drivers here are fluent in at least four languages, which we thought was interesting. There are buses, bushalte, and they do run frequently, so that is always an option at $1.25. In the high-rise section, they run continuously every 20 minutes along the strip. Many natives honk their horns, and at first, we had no idea what was going on. Unlike most cities, here honking your horn is equivalent to saying hello without actually throwing your body out your window and screaming, I suppose.

Everyone does it, so if you choose to rent a car, understand this before you let it get to you. Overall driving here does not seem difficult, everyone is very polite. The signs are very general, so that can pose a problem, but if you are willing to stop and ask people, it is fairly easy to get from A to B. I would say that renting a car is really not necessary, since cabs are affordable and the buses are great. If it is your wish to rent a car, however, that can be done through your concierge or through some of the major car rental companies like Dollar or Hertz, which are located on the island. When we were there, cars were about $60 a day.

Making a phone call with a calling card was almost impossible, as none of the phones in the Marriott would accept them (I bought the card in Aruba). We had to walk to the local phone company and use a pay phone there—that was an interesting experience, to say the least. The phone company's office was air-conditioned and very clean, and believe me when I tell you that we weren’t the only tourists there. I almost question if that is their way to make extra money—selling calling cards that you can only use there.

In Aruba, there are three main areas to stay in: Oranjestad, the low-rise hotel area, and the high-rise hotel area. Although there are areas like Tierra Del Sol, which is next to the island’s championship golf course, this area is more for people who own condos. Oranjestad is Aruba’s capital, with a population of 18,000, and is the area where cruise ships dock and where the majority of boutiques, restaurants, casinos, and pedestrian traffic are located. There are not as many souvenir shops here as you would find on most other Caribbean islands, but I wasn’t impressed with the shopping overall. There is a fairly big mall downtown (Royal Plaza Mall) that had all familiar stores, and the prices were in line with what we pay at home, if not a little higher. The best shops are on Havenstraat and Emmastraat. There’s lots of jewelry and porcelain (like Lladro) here, as well. The few finds I did come across were European makeup and lotions and, of course, liquor. There is no sales tax here, but there are other taxes that you should look at your hotel bill for: 6% government tax and an 11% hotel tax.

The low-rise hotel area is like a summer town and is filled with buildings that are four stories or smaller. This area covers beaches like Eagle, Manchebo, Bushiri, and Druif. In general, people refer to this entire area as Eagle Beach, since it is not clear to visitors where one beach ends and the other begins. The high-rise area, which is also called Palm Beach, begins about a quarter mile after Eagle Beach ends. This area is filled with top-of-the-line resorts with immaculate grounds, as well as some moderately priced finds. The Marriott is located at the very end of this beach. The beaches in general here are fantastic: pure white sand, kept extremely clean, with turquoise blue water everywhere you look.

We did visit the Hyatt just to see what the hype was about, and it is a nice hotel. I actually know people who have stayed there and said the same. I do feel, however, that the Marriott is much better for a whole slew of reasons. Primarily, its location deters "outside tourists" (people who aren’t staying at the Marriott) from coming to use your beach and/or pool. Nothing irks me more then paying for a resort and sharing lounge chairs with people who don’t belong. Secondly, because of its location, the beach is the widest and most clean around (the wide factor is a fact, not my opinion). The Hyatt’s style and setup here is very similar to those located in other tropical locations, like Maui—with tropical birds, tropical plants, small ponds, and attempts at a jungle feel. It misses, by the way. The grounds are beautiful, though, and the hotel itself is nice. I just didn’t think it was worth double the hotel price to stay there.

Aruba has an unbelievably low crime rate, and unemployment almost does not exist. That said, we were never bothered by people begging for money or vendors trying to make the hard sell, and we were never afraid to be anywhere on the island by ourselves or at night. It’s no wonder that Aruba has the highest repeat-visitor rate in all of the Caribbean. I think the amount of timeshares also has something to do with it. That said, this is a great place to take a timeshare tour, since the gifts are generous and they have so many people interested, the meetings are short and to the point. There are many tour operators on the island, and many you will find lurking around the cruise ships to entice people getting off, but these were recommended to us by the Marriott Concierge: Aruba Adventures (www.arubaadventures.com), De Palm Tours (www.depalm.com), and WIX Tours (www.wixtours.com). All of these operators run tours throughout the day and are reasonable priced and in line with what everyone else charges.

If you have more than 2 days, I would spend a half-day on a tour. The island is small and easy to cover in half a day, and this way, you can leave knowing you saw all there was. Although we are not golfers or gamblers, both are in big supply on this island. I think Aruba is so popular because, unlike most of the Caribbean, it has a nightlife, and it has other things to do besides just water sports. The people are great, as is the food—every place was better than the last. Overall, it’s a great island for a few days or longer; just be mindful of the sun. Everything is closed on Sundays here (for the most part). Highly Recommended.

Aruba Marriott Resort - L.G. Smith Blvd. 101, Palm Beach, Aruba – (800)223-6388. This is located 7 miles southeast of the Queen Beatrix Airport, and is about a $20 cab ride. It is much nicer then most people give it credit for – it is…Read More

Aruba Marriott Resort - L.G. Smith Blvd. 101, Palm Beach, Aruba – (800)223-6388.

This is located 7 miles southeast of the Queen Beatrix Airport, and is about a $20 cab ride. It is much nicer then most people give it credit for – it is usually the second choice for people traveling here, second only to the Hyatt (although I can’t figure out why). Featuring over 400 rooms, 20 suites, 4 restaurants, 2 tennis courts, an 18-hole championship golf course, spa, salon, health club, dive shop, casino, and so much more, this is the place to stay while in Aruba. With an ideal beachfront location, but towards the end of the hotel “strip,” this hotel offers immaculate surroundings and more privacy than any of the other resorts around. In fact, it is so far along the strip that cruise people (people who sail into Aruba on a cruise and have no business being at your hotel’s pool or beach) take cabs to the Hyatt to spend the day there – not the Marriott. It is also important to mention that the pristine, white beach is wider then the rest of the other hotels because of the location.

An eight-story, u-shaped building that is set next to Marriott’s huge timeshare property, the Surf & Ocean Club, has tons of palm trees, a waterfall, swim-up pool bars, and iguanas walking around like they are a guest’s pet. Of the four restaurants, there is the island’s best Italian one – Tuscany. The lobby has lots of trees, a mini “bridge” over a small pond, shops, and several large seating areas. There is a bar in the lobby done in all wood that almost looks like a large gazebo. The lobby was packed from morning until night during our entire trip. I’m sure some of that had to do with the fact that the casino is right off the lobby. The casino consists of mostly slot machines with a few card tables mixed in. It is always packed and convenient if you are staying in the hotel and want to gamble.

The Marriott has the most spacious rooms in all of Aruba, with huge bathrooms and 100-square-foot balconies. Rooms include all standard amenities, like a hair dryer, iron, coffeemaker, safes, and minibar, and they also offer bathrobes, a separate tub and shower, double sinks, and satellite television. Housekeeping was excellent, with unsolicited turn-down service, and all rooms had Internet access.

The spa was my only complaint with this hotel. They screwed up my reservation, and when I didn’t show for the wrong time, they charged me. When I went in for the time I booked, not only did they start a fight about it and refuse to try and accommodate me at that point or for another day, but they still refused to refund that charge. After a lengthy argument with the hotel’s general manager, the charge was refunded, but come on… for $100. Needless to say, I never went back for a massage, but I can say the staff was not very competent.

If you choose to take the Surf & Ocean Club’s timeshare tour, the Marriott will offer you $100 in gift certificates. These certificates can be used at almost every restaurant on the island, as well as towards any Marriott Hotel activity. The presentation included juices and pastries and only lasted 1 hour. Out of all of the timeshare presentations we have done, this “prize” was definitely the most flexible and the presentation was the easiest to get out of quickly.

The concierge was always busy but managed to be helpful and took care of all of our reservations for us. The pool area was spacious and filled with palm trees, bananas trees, (huge) iguanas, and a very friendly staff. Spots in the sun were obviously taken early in the day, so I would head out first thing to get yourself a good seat. We would go there before breakfast and drop our stuff (which I know is annoying, but if everyone else is doing it…).

If you are interested in a beach hut, it’s first come, first serve for free, or you can reserve in advance for a full day charge of $15. The hotel splits the huts in half (half for prepaying guests and half for people looking to get them free), and I can tell you that all of the free huts are gone by 7:35am (the desk opens at 7:30am). So if your idea of a fun day is sitting on the beach, you might consider booking in advance and taking your time to get there. There is an activities desk on the beach, and they offer every possible water sport you could look for. I would also like to mention that, unlike most other Caribbean and Mexican destinations, there are no vendors on this beach, so you can relax in peace.

The breakfast buffet at La Vista restaurant was $17 a person; of course everyone but us had the meal plan where breakfast was included. I will say that the buffet was extensive, and the restaurant had nice indoor ocean views. To me, $17 is a lot for breakfast but often we weren’t hungry come lunchtime. Plus, I find it interesting that we just came back from Cabo, where the breakfast was almost $30 a person!!!! There is a beach bar just past the pool that serves a nice lunch (average resort prices) with a fun crowd. At night that area turns into a romantic restaurant with live music – definitely a must-stop if for nothing else than a drink. This is highly recommended.
   Close