The Loreley rock is best observed from the right bank approaching the town of Sankt Goar from the south (Bacharach). A large parking lot and some garish souvenir shops mark the spot during the off season while tourist buses make it even easier to find in summer. Now…Read More

The Loreley rock is best observed from the right bank approaching the town of Sankt Goar from the south (Bacharach). A large parking lot and some garish souvenir shops mark the spot during the off season while tourist buses make it even easier to find in summer. Now truth be told looking at the rock from here is not terribly exciting. Being surprised by the sharpness of the last bend while looking at the large river navigation signs rather than concentrating on the road had the blood pumping much faster. With roads on both sides of the river and a railroad close by you really do not sense any of the excitement and danger that the sailors must have felt in years gone by.

A more pleasant experience is to be had on the Loreley itself. You can either park at the foot of the Loreley and walk up some steep steps or drive up a winding road through a narrow gorge. Once on top of the plateau the road suddenly opens up to a surprisingly flat and bright agricultural area.

Avoid the instantly forgettable Loreley Experience Center and rather head towards the top of the Loreley rock. This area is in private hands but is open to all - parking of Euro 1 is sometimes charged but refunded if you use the restaurant.

Here you can stand on top of the rock marked by a huge German flag and enjoy spectacular views of the Rhine Valley. The sense of the height and steepness of the valley in this stretch is much more evident standing here than from the bottom of the valley. The contrasts and colors in different light conditions are also amazing. Although best observed on different days even a temporary change of light due to clouds partly obscuring the sun will suddenly emphasis different aspects of the surrounding countryside. A visit in early or late autumn is especially rewarding as the different colors emphasis how the slopes of the valleys influence the pace at which leaves turn red. This also makes it obvious why some slopes are more suitable for vineyards than others.

The Restaurant produces decent food and has outdoor seating when weather allows. Although not exactly haut cuisine the food is good and several traditional German dishes including game are on offer. Service is friendly and efficient. My Goulash soup was very good and the ice cream with hot sour cherry sauce was fantastic with the sour cherries serving at least three times larger than pictured on the menu. A hot chocolate during a winter visit was also memorable. Other dishes also looked tasty and portions are of a decent size.

Looking down river from the Loreley a land finger protrudes into the river to provide a safe winter harbor for boats. At the end of this land finger is a small bronze statue of a mermaid in tribute to the legend that a luscious mermaid mesmerized sailors and that her singing entranced them to the point where they failed to concentrate on the River and boats ended on the rocks. This legend was immortalized in a poem by Heinrich Heine - "Ich weiss nicht was soll es bedeuten dass ich so traurig bin…" and the song may well be played if you pass the area by boat or bus. It is one of the most famous, and slowest, German folk songs and incidentally very popular in Japan. Criminally bad English translations of the poem are available on postcards sold in the region. It is a rather uncomfortable walk to the statue and frankly not worth the effort. The statue was erected by a marketing company in the 1960s in an attempt to cash in on souvenirs sales with its image and has no historical or artistic value. Rather just imagine a luscious mermaid combing her golden hair…

The Marksburg is the real authentic original thing. In contrast to other castles along the middle Rhine, the Marksburg was never conquered or destroyed and thus is the only castle in the region to be authentic and free from Rhine Romanticism. Approaching the Marksburg made it clear why this…Read More

The Marksburg is the real authentic original thing. In contrast to other castles along the middle Rhine, the Marksburg was never conquered or destroyed and thus is the only castle in the region to be authentic and free from Rhine Romanticism.

Approaching the Marksburg made it clear why this castle was never conquered - it lies serenely on top of a steep hill from where its defenses could not be challenged by pre-late 19th century technology. It literally towers over the town of Braubach and seeing it for the first time is an awe-inspiring moment.

Getting up to the castle even in modern times is a bit of a challenge. The fit can hike all the way but most people seem to prefer driving up along a very narrow and steep road. Even then it is still a steep walk or even steeper stairs to reach the castle from the parking lot. The access roads and especially the castle itself are unfortunately totally inaccessible to wheelchairs and strollers.

The only way to see the castle is by guided tour. The tour is in German only. If a German speaker buys your ticket the English flyer will not be offered but you should ask at the cashier, as it is not available at the start of the tour. Otherwise you’ll end up doing a lot of translation - other English speakers appreciated it (they didn’t tip though!).

Our guide was young but knew her subject and effortlessly answered a plethora of sharp questions ranging from the castle’s history to medieval history politics in general. Earliest record of the castle is from 1231 but additions were made up to the twenty-first century. The original owners were the influential Katzenelnbogen family. The castle traded hands on five occasions but always as inheritance or a commercial transaction - never through violent means.

Even before entering the main part of the castle note the doorway - it was reduced in size during the Thirty Years War (1618 - 1648) so a man on horse back could no longer enter the castle without dismounting. After the main gate the flooring is uneven and slippery - many a horse broke a leg here through the centuries and even today serves a reminder that an authentic castle does not comply with modern safety standards. Sturdy shoes are highly advisable.

Of particular interest are the defenses - it is unbelievable how close-up the Rhine looks from here despite the distance and the height. The inside is sparely furnished which in some way reminds that the castle was a rather unpleasant and unhealthy place to stay in and was only used for defensive purposes and not generally as a residence. The storage rooms were enormous to keep the food and drink - copious amounts of wine and beer were consumed, as no one in his right mind would have drank the dirty water of the well. Medieval wine had a low alcohol content but still it must have added up by the end of the day!

The knight’s hall features the original table - during feasts the whole tabletop was carried from the kitchen a floor lower laden with food. A rather solid door could shut the toilet area from the banquet hall. This door was only added after reports reached these shores of a castle in France being invaded through this rather weak point. The door was never shut during banquets.

The castle also has a famous herb garden. Special care was taken to ensure that the poisonous herbs were not mixed with the plants intended for medicinal use and flavoring of food.

The tour ends with a small collection of authentic torture equipment - this seems to be obligatory at many medieval sights and always attracts a worrying amount of keen interest from visitors.

The castle used to have a small number of guestrooms but they burned down along with the restaurant facilities a few months before our visit. The arsonist was caught red handed which must have been fortunate for the guy now manning the small snack shop. The amount of smoke he produced on his own in this cramped nook must otherwise have made him the prime suspect.

The Marksburg is the only undamaged and authentic caste on the middle Rhine. If your time is limited make this one your first choice - you won’t be disappointed.

Even though cuckoo clocks were first made in the Black Forest area, St Goar boasts of having the biggest free hanging cuckoo clock in the world--over 3 meters high and 2 meters wide! They also have the largest beer stein as well!! It is a very…Read More

Even though cuckoo clocks were first made in the Black Forest area, St Goar boasts of having the biggest free hanging cuckoo clock in the world--over 3 meters high and 2 meters wide! They also have the largest beer stein as well!!

It is a very touristy place, especially in the summer with all the tour buses stopping there for a bit of shopping. Cuckoo clocks, beer steins, wine glasses, picture postcards, spoons, dolls, and teddy bears all make a good German souvenir.

Many houses have water level marks, a result of flooding of the Rhine.