Northumberland Stories and Tips

Walking Craster to Beadnell

Northumberland Sheep Photo, Northumberland, England

Beyond our pit stop at the Ship Inn at Low Newton by the Sea, we wandered on towards our destination for the day, Beadnell by wandering along the wide expanse of Beadnell Bay.

We were lucky enough to catch the rather curved bay at low tide in the late afternoon sun, with a threatening storm meaning the light was particularly dramatic.

Although sand, beaches and bay feature heavily in the Northumberland Coast Path the nice thing about the changeable weather and the different times of day we hit the beach meant that each experience was distinctive and different.

This particular beach is home to the UK's largest colony of Arctic Tern, which perhaps gives you some idea of the strength and warmth of the wind on the beach.

Beadnell looked inviting as we came closer towards it, with a ruined structure right on the end of the bay. As we hit the town, we had the choice of joining the road, or walking amongst the boats in the harbour, stranded on the low tide. It was really rather strange to get a perspective of these little fishing and pleasure boats stranded away from the sea.

I took care to pick my way around the thick ropes at anchor lying on top of the sand; ridiculous really but I half imagined if I tripped I might pull the boat from its moorings and the owner would arrive at the harbour the next morning to see his boat far off on the horizon. Also, at this perspective the sheer strength and bulk of the harbour wall was truly visible. Who knows how many waves and storms these blocks of stone and (ahem) concrete have repelled.

The ruins at the end of the harbour were ruined old lime kilns dating from the early Industrial Revolution in the mid 1700’s; later its proximity to the harbour meant the kilns were a natural choice for smoking herrings. We lingered at the public benches in front of the kilns watching the fishermen, drinking the last of our water and appreciating that another stage of our Northumberland Coast Path Trail had been completed.

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