Stockholm Stories and Tips

Stockholm: Venice of the North?

When you arrive in Stockholm it is likely you will land at Arlanda airport the where you can travel into the city by the Arlanda Express. The trains are very regular, every 10 to 15 minutes and are very similar to the Gatwick Express in London. It is the quickest route from the airport to the city centre (Central Station) taking only 20 minutes, but is also very expensive. The price is 260 SEK for a single ticket (roughly £25), but it is often better value to travel with another person (two for 260 SEK) or get a return ticket which can cost as little as 325 if bought in advance.

The best way to get around Stockholm is to walk! It is a small city centre and most of the city centre can be walked quite easily. However, if it’s raining, if you need to be somewhere quickly or want to get outside the city centre you can always use the excellent Tunnelbanna, Stockholm’s Metro network. Most of the lines run through T-Centralen right in the centre of the city.

Gamla Stan is the old town of Stockholm and normally the first point of call for visitors. It really has the old town feel with cobbled streets, alleyways and little squares which are now populated with expensive cafes. The largest and most prominent square is Stortorget which was the site of the Stockholm Bloodbath of 1520 when King Christian of Denmark entered the city and his troops killed over 80 Swedish noblemen. Gamla Stan really is Tourist Central and as you can imagine there are many cafes, restaurants and shops around which are nearly all aimed at this target group. Gamla Stan is a wonderful place to visit, especially on a lovely day when you can sit outside a café and listen to some live music on the street. It is quite typical of an old town but is so different from the rest of Stockholm that it really is somewhere you must go if you are planning to visit the city.

Gamla Stan’s most famous site is The Royal Palace; the King’s official residence and workplace. The palace was built between 1697 to 1754 and with over 600 rooms is actually the biggest palace in the world still used by a head of state. Entrance, including the 45 minute guided tour (in either Swedish, English or German), is 100 SEK (£10ish) for adults and is open all year round with the exception of a few public holidays and with any events that King Gustav is hosting.

Across the bridge as you enter Norrmalm, the complete opposite of quiet, scenic Gamla Stan, with streets packed full of shops, restaurants, bars, museums and hundreds of people! In fact, there were 7 H&M clothes shops within walking distance of each other last time I visited Stockholm but that’s nothing compared to the number of expensive homeware shops! I won’t start listing all of the restaurants and bars that I have visited, but the food and drink is generally expensive, comparable with the rest of Scandinavia and central London. The one bar which is worth its own mention is the ‘‘‘Absolut Ice Bar’’’ at the Nordic Sea Hotel which has become one of the most popular attractions in the city. The bar is made entirely of ice, from the bar, to the tables and chairs, from the menus to the glasses the drinks are served in. Entry is 140 SEK (£13) which includes a big shiny blue jacket with a furry hood and one vodka-based drink. Each additional drink costs a further 85 SEK. The bar is kept at -5 degrees and you can only stay in for around half an hour. In all honesty, the place is vastly overrated and is quite expensive to have to wait in turn for so long just to be thrown out after 30 minutes.

Stockholm is one of the cleanest European cities and was awarded the 2010 European Green Capital Award by the EU Commission. Djurgården is one of the greenest areas of Stockholm and the island is the home of the impressive embassy buildings, museums, historic houses, Skansen Zoo and the theme park, Gronalund. It’s a wonderful place to go for a walk on a nice day and pop into a café for lunch or grab an ice cream.

One of the highlights of Stockholm for me is the Vasa Museum (Vasamuseet) which is located on Djurgården. The huge warship Vasa sank in 1628 on its maiden voyage and salvaged in 1961. Since then it has been restored to its former glory using 95% of the boat’s original materials including its carved sculptures and has been housed in the custom made Vasa Museum for the past two decades. The museum contains various exhibitions relating to the ship including and 17th century Swedish history. There is also an excellent film which takes the viewer from the construction of the ship to the sinking and ultimately its conservation. The video lasts 25 minutes and is repeated every hour and is subtitled in various European languages. It is open from 10.00 a.m. until 5.00 p.m. daily with the exception of Wednesday when it stays open until 8.00 p.m. and the entry price is 110 SEK for adults which is close to £10 and free for children. It’s interesting from the outside as it just looks like a big wooden shed with the top of a boat poking out! Nevertheless, it’s a must-visit for all ages and of all the museums in Stockholm it’s the one worth paying for!

Another of my favourites is Skansen, an open air museum and zoo. Entry is 100 SEK (£10) for adults and 40 SEK (£4) for children which is quite pricey but worth it because you can make a whole day out of it as it is open daily from 10.00 a.m. until 8.00 p.m. The site is home to a replica 19th century Swedish town of over 150 buildings among which there is a traditional glassmakers where you can watch glass blowing. The zoo features many wild and native Nordic animals including bisons, seals, moose, wolves, reindeer, foxes, owls and my favourites, the brown bear which is often hibernating at Skansen. The zookeepers give talks and feed the animals at various times through the day which is included in the entrance fee.

Close to Skansen is the amusement park, Gronalund. It has lots of rides including rollercoasters and also has cafes and restaurants as well as lots of fair type stalls where you can win cuddly toys and giant bars of Maribou (yum!) chocolate! My friends and I spent about an hour and most of our holiday money trying to win one of these bars in a basketball throwing competition which we were useless at. In the end the nice man just gave us one which made our day! Gronalund is not quite Alton Towers but it’s a great day out and something to tie in to a day at Djurgården.

Stockholm’s tourist attractions are particularly expensive. However, if you are spending even just one day in Stockholm it is worth investing in the ‘Stockholm Card’. It is quite an expensive one off payment but could save a fortune if you are planning on visiting some of the main attractions in the city.

One day pass: 425 SEK (£40) for adults, 195 SEK (£18) for children (up to 17, only valid with adult)
Two day pass: 550 SEK (£51) for adults, 225 SEK (£21) for children (up to 17, only valid with adult)
Five day pass: 895 SEK (£83) for adults, 285 SEK (£26) for children (up to 17, only valid with adult)

The Stockholm Card provides free entry to lots of attractions including most of the ones I’ve listed above; The Vasa Museum, Nordic Museum, Royal Palace, Drottningholm Palace, Skansen and Gronalund as well as others including many other museums, gardens, castles and historic buildings which normally cost about £10 each. It also provides free transport on the Metro, buses, city bicycles, trains and trams throughout the city as well as the hop on-hop off sightseeing boat during the summer months which is an excellent way to see the city!

=== Overall ===

There are some beautiful cities in Europe and for me Stockholm is right up there. I love that I never feel that I need to pack lots of sights in and see certain things; it feels like I’m at home! I always feel safe and am happy to walk round the city alone whether shopping, sightseeing or just on a wander. There are so many attractions and things to keep tourists happy but it’s also a lovely city to spend time in and immerse yourself in Swedish life. It’s such a beautiful city with all the water and greenery and it’s all very peaceful without the hustle and bustle that is common in many capital cities.

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