We arrived in Andalusia in the autumn to capture the last two bullfighting season. Seville - the city uncompromising: there is the unbearable summer heat, the most exalted of the procession to the Holy Week, and the most sensitive afisonados collected at the local arena for a bullfight. But having been once the arena where the bull is killed, wanted to be and where they live. Andalusia for this - the best place. Seville Arena Maestrantsa - as the heart in the circulatory system, linked with dozens of Ganadero - estates, where the free bread, but under the watchful supervision of grazing toro de lidia, Iberian fighting bull.
Corrida - a focus, a clot, the quintessence of the festival, which includes a lot of drinks, songs, dances, and (ah!) Love in all its sensual manifestations.
By the evening of the day off all this sea of humanity gather around Maestrantsy.
Yesterday we watched the first bullfight - the so-called "Mano a Mano", when two matador compete in skill with each other: three for each bull.
Arena in Seville - a special, it gives a name and recognition. In Seville - more feeling, more understanding, more of that special spirit, which arises from a combination of sun, stoicism and adrenaline. in Seville more difficult to leave the arena through the main gate (this is the highest prize for a successful matador. In Madrid, for this need to get only two trophies in Seville - as many as three).
Catalan poet Pere Himferer accurately called corrida "visual poem in development. Big atavistic ballet, poetry, and many plastics, rapid pulse, clean lines, blood and sand, brutal combination of red on gold. Fear of human death (unlikely in an era of emergency, but still possible), and the thrill when it can be avoided.
Ruta de toros, "the way the bulls" - the main road which connects Seville to Cadiz, and go through the "bull's country" with an epic Andalusian lunar landscape, the geometry of the olive groves ("Mount of the plain opens the fan, wrapped a fan," as written by Federico García our Lorca). Here, herds of bulls, chosen from among them, four years after the birth will be selected for the arena.
Finca, or farm 40 km north-west of Seville, where we're headed, is called La Calera. This is a great indoor and peace.
The main house rural estates is simple, but elegant. Powerful stones, bougainvillea in full-length, orange trees at the gate. Great Hall is decorated with, among other things, old magazine clippings, and two ox-heads, with brass plaques, explaining: where, when and by whom was killed. That's how the bulls have their posthumous fame.
In the arena the bull and the matador - partners. Advantages bull audience is at least as strict as matador skills. But if the dead carcass of a bull escort whistle (he was lazy or cowardly) - it is a shame especially for the breeder, he loses the prestige and money.
Business farm - olive and cork trees, and even hunting - said Covilha. - Bulls - a tribute to tradition and prestige. "
Bulls freely roam the 1600 hectares of estates inconvenient, limited only by fences that mark the boundaries of the property. Nothing should subdue their aggressive nature. Young bulls, three-year plan, called novillos, often arrange brawl among themselves, the older animals (bulls enter the arena in four years), hold more staid and lonely.
The bull must be bravo and noble. Brave and noble. About courage - like everything is clear. The nobility of the bull requires explanation. This is not rock, although the physical static bull always evaluated separately. This battle rush, attack in the open. This is a special gift to make a couple of matadors, to respond to his actions. Help him to show the best performance. Buck must fight from the first until the final thirds faeny. Its not necessary for this force, aggression in his blood.
"Bullfighting - it does not fight. Corrida - a dance. Dance, where death is alternately soars need one, then the other. This is not killing the bull man. Or a man - a bull. This is a triumph of life over death."