There is only one main road in La Paz, and this follows the course of the canyon of Rio Choqueyapu. From top to bottom, this street takes by turns the name of Avenida Ismael Montes, Avenida Mariscal Santa Cruz, Avenida 16 de Julio and Avenida Villazón. The central tree-lined section running through the downtown core is called the Prado.
La Paz' geography reflects society: the lower you go, the more affluent. While many middle-class paceños live in high-rise condos near the center, the really rich houses are located in the lower neighbourhoods southwest of the Prado. The reason for this division is that the lower you go in the city, the more oxygen there is in the air and the milder the weather is. And looking up from the center, the surrounding hills are plastered with makeshift brick houses of those struggling in the hope of one day reaching the bottom.
Historically, La Paz's main street divided the city into two parts. The indigenous people lived to the south the Spanish to the north. Before the age of cement, this main street was actually a river. Water still runs along this path, but you'd have to dig pretty deep to find it. Nevertheless, this is still the lowest point of La Paz. So, if you're lost, just walk downhill and eventually you will arrive at El Prado. The old colonial divisions still linger: The Witch Doctors' Market, the Black Market, and most of the indigenous-run street stands are all still on the south side of El Prado, while the colonial buildings, main plaza, and government offices are all to the north. The area of town from Plaza San Francisco to Plaza del Estudiante is considered the heart of La Paz.
The street, a colourful blur of trees, flowers, and monuments, is often clogged with pedestrians and vendors, especially on weekends. On Sunday it's blocked off to traffic completely. At the end of the Prado, the street splits into the Avenida 6 de Agosto and Avenida Arce, which lead to the residential areas of San Jorge and Sopocachi, where many of La Paz's bars and restaurants are located. Continue down the hill on 6 de Agosto and you will eventually reach Obrajes and the Zona Sur.
La Paz in parts feels like one big sprawling market. On Avenida 16 De Julio, one minute you can be fighting your way through stalls and people sitting in the middle of the pavement begging and you then come across one of the many large banks where a security guard is standing with a rifle. Next door will be a hotel or restaurant. It’s a wonderful city of colour and chaos and the main street is a microcosm of just that.