Few cities in the world have a setting as spectacular as La Paz. The city cowers in a narrow canyon gouged from the high Altiplano. The cluster of church spires and modern office blocks at its centre are dwafted by the magnificent icebound peak of Mount Illimani which rises imperiously to the southeast. The dramatic mountain scenery that surrounds La Paz can be easily reached on excursions down the valley to the south.
Even if the high altitude doesn’t take your breath away, your first sight of the city probably will. That’s if you arrive on one of the fortunate days when there is little pollution. From El Alto, the ramshackle city at the rim of the canyon you can get fabulous views of La Paz nestling in the valley below and Illimani rising behind in the distance.
Unlike most cities, in La Paz the richest neighbourhoods occupy the lowest altitudes while the homes and markets of the poor are located high up on the steep slopes of the canyon. Many of the city’s wealthy now live in the upmarket suburbs to the south where the weather is warmer and it’s easier to breathe.
La Paz is a city which can be a sight in itself. It is noisy, busy, a bit grubby in places and very chaotic but it seems to work and there is always something to see that is different, from ladies in bowler hats to dried llama foetuses and much in between. There are several viewing places or miradores offering impressive panoramas. The most spectacular can be the Jach´a Apacheta Mirador, on the edge of the precipice of the city of El Alto but when we went there the pollution over the city was so bad you could hardly see anything. We decided that we should try other points within the city itself.
One of the most popular places is the K´Illi K´Illi Mirador. It's located a few blocks east of Plaza Murillo on Av. las Banderas. Another option is Parque Laikacota, at the top of Av. Ejercito west of the city center. This offers the best panorama from within the bowl, with clear views of the city and the rugged terrain to the east, all the way to Mt. Illimani. Admission is Bs 3.5.
An alternative is Mirador Monticulo, which is next to Plaza España in the colonial neighbourhood of Sopocachi. This small park (free entry) has a church and lots of trees which block much of the city, but the clear view of Illimani makes it an evening hotspot for couples. From there, an abrupt descent leads to the "South Zone", passing through Llojeta and the "Garden Cemetery".
But for one of the best views in the heart of downtown, Av. Camacho points straight to Illimani, and from the intersection with the Prado it's framed by skyscrapers in an interesting juxtaposition.