Highlights
I am excited to report that I did not see one single Starbucks in Budapest. Yes, there are plenty of other chain shops and restaurants but Starbucks was blissfully absent. And to be honest there’s really no place for them because Budapest has plenty of fine cafes to choose from.
Favourites for me were the edgy Tandem Café, smart Gerloczy, laid-back Central Kavehaz, cosy cake emporium Ruszwurm Cukraszda and the bright and studious Café Eckermann. I also enjoyed a rich, thick hot chocolate at Café Kafka, near the Basilica of St. Stephen, a great little place to hide out in, in the centre of Pest. If you’ve got a few more forints in your pocket however, then you may be drawn to Gerbeaud or the New York Café instead. The interior of the New York is particularly spectacular but you definitely pay (two or three times as much) for the pleasure.
In between the coffee shops, Budapest is best enjoyed on a clear day from the Fishermen’s Bastion or the Citadella on Gellert Hill, where views down over the Danube are both serene and spectacular. Ambling along Buda’s Tancsics Mihaly Utca, Tarnok Utca and around the Royal Palace is also a relaxing way to spend the day.
Visiting the Central Market, Matthias Temple, Basilica of St. Stephen and the Parliament were all highlights. All of these exquisitely decorated structures are inexpensive attractions, especially if you’re entitled to the free entry at the Parliament building (for EU passport holders). For those who aren’t, I’m not entirely convinced that it’s worth the £7.70 entrance fee for what turned out to be a very brief 35-minute tour.
Another highlight, which is an odd one I admit, is that I was constantly impressed by the cleanliness of the toilets. It started at Budapest’s Ferihegy airport but as I began to explore the city, I realized that most cafes, restaurants and bars also pride themselves in providing clean and sometimes attractive toilet facilities. I don’t know if this is linked to the Turkish bathhouse heritage but it’s not an observation that can usually be made in any country.
If you’re not into coffee shops but find yourself needing a place to warm up in Budapest, this city has a bookshop on almost every street corner and in many I noticed English language publications for sale.
Quick Tips / Suggestions
As we quickly found out, Budapest isn’t a cheap place to visit. Eating out can cost the same as it does in London, sometimes more if you’re not careful. We had read about places trying to scam tourists and on our second night out, a barman tried to charge us for a double shot of palinka when we had only ordered singles. It may have been an honest mistake but having read about it in every guidebook we couldn’t help but be suspicious so do double check your receipt.
On the other hand, the public transport system in Budapest is cheap. We bought a book of ten tickets and this lasted two of us five days. We bought them at a metro station by holding up all 10 fingers in front of the ticket vendor, which got the message across, albeit rather crudely. The tickets are non-transferable but are good for any single bus, tram or metro journey. After familiarizing yourself with the local network, it’s an easy way of getting yourself around and it can be a big money-saver if you want to avoid paying for an overpriced city tour.
Best Way to Get Around
I always love exploring places on foot but Budapest is quite a large city and if you’re a little short on time or energy, it’s definitely worth taking advantage of the public transport. The metro trains run regularly and provide a fast connection between Buda and Pest. The trams are a little less speedy but allow easy access to far-reaching destinations. The metro system is pretty easy to work out on your own. For bus and tram information it’s worth asking at your hotel or hostel reception and they can probably point you in the right direction. Before you enter the metro you have to stamp your ticket. You do the same thing on the tram (although you actually do this once on board) and I’m guessing it’s the same for the bus too.
Taxis seem to be readily available in Budapest and at the airport, the fee to the city centre is pre-determined so there’s no danger of being ripped off on arrival, which is always reassuring.
Otherwise I can strongly recommend exploring streets such as Raday Utca, Vaci Utca, Andrassy Utca and the Castle District of Buda on foot.