What a beautiful island - lush green mountains so close to the blue/green sea. Although not noted for it's beaches - most are either dark volcanic sand or rocky- the underwater life is impressive and the sulfur springs and waterfalls make it a fun place to explore.
The main cruise port is in Roseau - two large ships were docked in the main town, therefore "Azamara" called at the smaller port in Cabrits - the National Park. Having never visited Dominica, we arranged for a private tour prior to our departure - Tim Pascal had been recommended on a Cruise Critic Board. Our contact via e-mail was promptly replied to, he even called us twice prior to our trip.
Originally, we had requested snorkeling at Champagne Reef and a visit to Trafalgar Falls. Since it was an hour's drive from Cabrits to Roseau where the good snorkeling spots are (Champagne and Scott's Head), Tim recommended that we take a complete island tour. He has a new 16 passenger van but prefers no more than 10 for comfort reasons. We were 7 and it was perfect - one in front - two in each row of seats and room for our gear in the back.
We started our long drive through the beautiful green mountains - the roads are narrow, hilly, full of hairpin turns, not well marked and the driver sits in "our" passenger seat - my recommendation.....don't drive!!. I can now well understand some warnings about renting a car in Dominica.
CARIB TERRITORY:
3,000 Carib Indians now live in a community in the northeast mountains of Dominica. A few kiosks were set up along the road, selling crafts - mostly baskets woven from Larouma reed. Smiling children waved happily as we drove past. We also saw two men building a dugout canoe from a Gommier tree - native to Dominica - and another man and his family were making a corn meal type flour called Cassava for breadmaking - He was mixing it with his hands in a huge vat and would then roast it in a metal container over a wood fire. Our driver took us through mountains with beautiful views of the rough Atlantic at the foot of precipitous cliffs, then through banana and pineapple plantations and on through the rainforest, where we experienced a few showers. He even stopped to purchase fresh picked grapefruit and mango grown on his Mom's property and of course, a few photo ops.
EMERALD POOL - A very popular tourist attraction in Dominica - Emerald Pool is in he Morne Trois Piton National Park. A $5 admission fee is charged. This is a beautiful natural pool fed by a 50 foot waterfall. It's an easy enough 20 minute walk through a path in the forest - wear rubber soled shoes because the rocks get wet and slippery. Stops at viewing spots along the way provide a glimpse of the Atlantic in the distance. A few tourists did get their feet wet - but I have a feeling that the water was very cold. The falls are beautiful. It was very humid in the rainforest, but cooler than I had expected on an 80 degree day - it was not an uncomfortable walk. At the reception area, you have access to restrooms for $1.00 - Soda and a few snacks are available and, of course, the obligatory gift shops.
BOTANICAL GARDENS - A drive through crowded Roseau - with Tim giving a commentary on schools, churches, cemeteries, the port, hotels, the many ethnic restaurants and even mention of a brothel (that had all of us laughing....) - led us to the Botanical Gardens, a 40 acre park. A quick photo-op here. Tim pointed out a cashew tree, cracked an almond for us to taste and picked some fresh lemongrass. There is a small area with kiosks that sell gifts. Beer, soda and fruit were always available from the cooler in the van.
SULFUR SPRINGS - About five miles out of Roseau, we stopped to experience the volcanic activity of Sulfur Springs. A short walk along a dirt trail leads you to a viewing platform to see the boiling, bubbly water. Our guide pointed out the crevices in the rocks where sulfur gasses were escaping - felt very warm and the odor was very bad. There are a few spas in the vicinity where you can bathe in these waters for $5 - $10 per person. The most famous being Screw's Spa - There are three pools on his property - warm, medium and hot - and you can avail yourself to mud packs and spa treatments. No time to stop, we must move on to....
TRAFALGAR FALLS - A $5 National Park admission is payable at the concession area - snacks and refreshments can be enjoyed at picnic tables. A short one minute uphill walk through the rain-forest takes you to a pavilion to view the awesome twin falls. The Father fall is 125 feet high and the Mother fall is wider, but only 95 feet high (Moms usually are shorter and wider than Dads). These falls reminded me on the waterfalls in Kauai. You can continue downhill from there to the two pools and large boulders at the foot of these falls - one pool is cool, the other hot. On to our last stop...
CHAMPAGNE REEF....for snorkeling. Dominica is noted for it's reefs and diving. I was intrigued with the description of snorkeling "Champagne Reef" during my pre-trip research of Dominica. Tim dropped us off at the access steps by the roadside. There is usually an admission fee charged here - but on this particular day - no one was there to collect. This is a very rocky beach. Thank goodness that a new 200 foot wooden walkway was recently built in order to make it easier to get near the rocky point at the end of the beach - that's where the bubbles are..... It's an easy snorkel experience once you get into the water. Shallow reef, very warm, clear water - the distinguishing experience here is that you feel as though you're in a champagne glass full of tiny bubbles. The crevices and small holes in the reef allow the volcanic gas to escape - the bubbles were much smaller than I had anticipated - exactly the size that you get in a glass of "bubbly". The warm gasses raise the water very comfortable temperature which in turn attracts marine life. The reef was not very colorful - we did see some fish, but you snorkel here for the "Bubbly Experience".
We're happy that we took this long tour - It would have been shorter had we docked in Roseau. Tim is very knowledgeable, pleasant, funny and a great driver with the skills needed to negotiate those "white knuckle" hilly, winding, narrow roads and also a great host!! I highly recommend contacting him to arrange a tour specifically suited to your group. You can e-mail me at cantin2@optonline.net to send you contact info.