Just a short ferry ride from Istanbul, the Princes Islands are a brilliant place to kick back and escape the relentless noise and bustle of the city. Other than emergency vehicles, motorised vehicles are not allowed on the islands which makes them very peaceful and makes walking more enjoyable. I love to walk but Istanbul can be hard work for walkers and so visiting the Princes Islands gives you an opportunity to stroll without needing eyes in the back of your head. Huddled together in the Sea of Marmara, each island has a character of its own and it's easy to forget the proximity of one of the world's largest cities.
The Islands can be visited all year round but ferry and hydrofoil services are less frequent in winter. One of the reasons they are so popular is that several of them have beaches and this is the nearest place to the city for bathing. However, from what I could see the beaches weren't that great (small patches of pebbles and too close to the ferry terminals) and certainly wouldn't persuade me to take the ferry over. No, what is so appealing about the Princess Islands is the legacy of the different cultures that moved out to the islands in the late Ottoman period. The people who have lived on the islands, or owned holiday homes there have always been wealthy Istanbullus and that means a heritage created in particular by the Jewish, Greek and Armenian communities.
The islands got their name because princes and princesses who had outlived their roles were exiled to the islands during Byzantine times. In the middle of the eighteenth century a ferry service to the islands was established and the islands became a popular place for the wealthy merchant classes to have extravagant villas built.
Of the nine islands, five are populated. Four of the five populated ones can be visited by ferry; the fifth, Sedef, is privately owned.
GETTING TO THE ISLANDS
A brilliant part of a trip to the Princes Islands is the ferry ride. On the outward journey we took the car ferry from the "Adalar Iskelesi" dock at Sirkeci. You need to get there at least thirty minutes before the scheduled departure time as the queues are long and you need to buy a ticket first. Once you have your ticket you join the scrum at the gate; take care once the gates open as people tend to sprint onto the ferry in order to get a good seat. You have been warned! When the ferry sets sail you will get excellent views of the Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque and of the Aya Sofya as the ferry passes Seraglio Point. It is worth the trip just for this!
It takes 30 minutes to reach the first island and then about fifteen minutes between islands after that. Then the ferry goes back to the city and terminates at Eminonu. You can also make the journey by catamaran to and from Eminonu. We did this on the way back. It's a ten minute bus ride from Taksim Square or Sultanahmet.
THE ISLANDS
We stopped for the day at Burgazada which is the second stop of the ferry but I will write a little on each of the others first.
Kinaliada - this island is most popular with Istanbul's Armenian community and has quite a distinct look with its white houses that cling to the hill. As the ferry pulled in there were quite a few people bathing on the pebbly beach but we had read up a little and couldn't find enough that we wanted to see on this island and didn't fancy swimming here as the ferry terminal was right beside the beach. There is Hristos Monastery which was built by the Byzantine Emperor Romanus IV but our guidebook told us it was only open on Fridays. Beside the ferry terminal is the most modern mosque I have ever seen, it looks like a single "sail" from Sydney Opera House.
Heybeliada - the island looks very attractive and the first thing you see as you approach is the Greek Orthodox school for priests because it sits on the top of a hill. It's housed in the former Haghia Triada Monastery and peeks out above the poplar trees. Another striking building you can admire without leaving the ferry is the naval academy, a huge white building that looks like a giant pavilion.
Buyukada is the largest of the islands and the final ferry stop. This island is more obvious as a tourist destination and I'm glad we didn't visit it. It looked too busy and too "manufactured" for my taste with the most over the top ferry terminal building adorned with more cupolas and balconies than is decent! Our guidebook said that the chief attraction of this island was the Greek St George's Monastery, a fifty minute uphill walk from the port. It also said there wasn't much to see when you got there.
Lucky then that we chose to visit Burgazada, the second stop on the ferry route. This is the island with predominantly Greek heritage. Our guide book didn't have many positive things to say about it but we thought it rather attractive with streets of wonderful wooden Ottoman houses and an interesting and picturesque museum dedicated to Sait Faik Abasiyanik, famous Turkish story writer from the beginning of 20th century and housed in the writer's former home.
I have written separately on this island so please read my other review for a better idea of that Burgazada is like
The Princes Islands are incredibly picturesque and offer an alternative side of Istanbul that many tourists don't get to see. The cultural history of Istanbul is diverse and rich but can be easily forgotten in the city and is easier to appreciate on the islands where there seems more acceptance and tolerance of the tapestry of Istanbul history.
If you are in Istanbul for more than a few days I would certainly recommend a visit in order to enjoy a break from the hustle and bustle of the main tourist areas although most literature I read advised staying away on Sundays in summer when the islands are flooded with visitors. The amount there is to see and do varies from island to island so I would suggest doing a little research before choosing which to visit. Of course, you could always hop from island to island either in one day (perhaps two would be the limit for one day) or over several days. However you would certainly need to research accommodation if you chose the latter option as there is not a vast amount on any one island and some of it is pricey. Reservations are advised for the height of summer and it should be noted that many hotels and pensions close entirely in winter.
The Princes Islands are not a secret to Turkish people but are somewhat less well known by tourists from other countries. However, I would say that visitors to any of the islands would not be disappointed; it is amazing to think that these tranquil traffic free havens are within sight of Istanbul and well worth the short sailing to enjoy their beauty.