I remember Eddie Fisher. He’s an American singer (now in his 80's), who is today known best for the fact that he was married to Debbie Reynolds, Elizabeth Taylor, and Connie Stevens. As a singer, he is best remembered for his extraordinary treatment of his signature song, "Oh My Papa." Popular from the late 1940's forward, his beautiful tenor voice was heard around the world. He had forty some songs that made it to the top 40 on the Hit Parade Top 100. But the song for which I remember him best, however, is his rendition of "That’s What Christmas Means To Me."
I first heard the song at Christmas time when I was serving in the US Army and stationed in Nürnberg, Germany. The song was popular among many homesick servicemen at the time and was played frequently on Armed Forces Radio as well as on many German stations. I heard the song for the first time just after I had returned from an evening at what was Germany’s most famous, and now world famous Christ Child’s Market, or Christkindlesmarkt, held in the "Old City" of Nürnberg. I had sampled more than one mug of the famous Glühwein (mulled wine) and had consumed considerably more Nürnberger Bratwurst than was healthy, and I was in great spirits when I first heard that song. To this day, Nürnberg’s Christkindlesmarkt still encapsulates what Christmas means to me.
The Christmas season is a wonderful time of year and I always enjoy it, but I have longed for the feelings I remember in a magic city over forty-five years ago. While I have returned to Germany and to Nürnberg many times since those days past, it was finally this year, 2008, that I returned to Germany especially for the Christmas markets, and especially for Nürnberg’s Christkindlesmarkt. I anticipated that it would not be the same as it was nearly a half century ago and I kept my expectations in check. I needn't have. It was so worth the wait.
It is a relatively short walk from the Hauptbahnhof to the Hauptmarkt (main market square). Coming out the tunnel from the station I walked into the pedestrian zone and soon came to a view of the Imperial Castle off in the distance. Christmas decorations were strung across Königstrasse and hung on street lights. I was swept along by the crowd and walked past Lorenzkirche, down the hill to the square. The sun had begun setting and the lights from the stalls filled the square with a warm inviting glow. Some stalls were selling the famous and delicious finger-size Nürnberger Bratwurst, some sold hot spiced wine (Glühwein), still others were selling potato pancakes, scented candles, lebkuchen and other baked breads and rolls, baked apples, roast almonds, ginger nuts; there was even popcorn. The aromas were wonderful. The entire square with its striped red and white stall roofs was as I remembered.
I had a brat sandwich (three small Nürnberger Bratwurst in a roll) and I wandered through the stalls (over 160) making photographs while looking for a vantage point from which to photograph the Opening Ceremony. I found a spot that afforded me a good view and grabbed it even though I had to stand in one place for over an hour. I waited for the twilight to evolve into night and 5:00 PM.
On the last Friday before the first Sunday of Advent - in other words, usually the last Friday of November, at 5:00 PM, the market square was plunged into total darkness and when the lights came back in less than one minute later, spotlights lit the balcony of the Frauenkirch (Church of Our Lady). As wonderful memories of the past came flooding back to me and my eyes filled with tears (as did those of many others), I was struck by the simple beauty of the brief opening ceremony (less than 30 minutes long), the Christkind or Christ Child, but mostly by the complete silence of over twenty five thousand people watching the ceremony. From behind me I could hear the cameras of the professional photographers over 50 feet away, but nothing else. It was cold, yet there were no children crying; there were no sounds other than the voice of a lovely teen-age girl, the Christkind, speaking the text that has been spoken by all of the Christkinds in recent memory. Other than her voice, there was complete silence except for the few accompanying musical instruments and a choir that probably would have been present in 1628 (the first recorded mention of this Christmas market).
Times have changed since 1962. The traditions of many cultures are being lost in the generation changes. But while some of the decorations have been modernized (electric bulbs instead of lit candles), the Christkindlesmarkts in so many German cities continue to remind us of the Spirit of Christmas. At least it does to me. I hope that my images will bring some of that same joy to you.
Welcome to Nürnberg!
Next stop: Rothenburg ob der Tauber