Tetouan is the real Morocco. Don’t expect to find a crowd of European (or American) tourists here in the mountains outside Tangier. Do expect to find the color and bustle of an authentic Moroccan city.
Tetouan is a short bus ride from Tangier. Give the bus driver in Tangier about a Euro and hop aboard. On the road up into the mountains expect to see more of Morocco’s Berbers, who make up a sizable part of the population. The business of Tetouan daily life begins right outside the bus terminal.
Trucks carrying fish from the port were unloading to vendors out on the sidewalk when we arrived. Fruits and vegetables were on display for sale along the street. That was a prelude to the medina.
The traditional walled city is a crosshatch of streets lined with wonderful shops and goods for sale on the pavement. Festive banners are strung overhead, giving the place the air of a never-ending carnival. If the medina in Asilah is open and laid back, Tetouan’s medina is all business, all the time. You can deal with these merchants and practice your bargaining skills. It’s expected. You will be drawn to the colorful fruits, candies and other delights. The best advice is to resist the temptation.
Tetouan’s other main tourist draw is just outside the main entrance to the medina. Beyond expansive Hassan II Square sits the compound of the Royal Palace. This sparkling white edifice recalls Morocco’s Spanish history and was restored 60 years ago to become a major tourist draw.
Lining the opposite side of the square, expect your dining needs to be fulfilled. More traditional shops and restaurants line the streets, and you can sample some real Moroccan fare or maybe just wish for some home style food. Here is one data point: You may see "hamburger" listed on the menu, and you may order one. Expect to find sausage and egg included inside.
Your Euros will likely spend well here in this principal city of northern Morocco, but carry a supply of the local dirhams just to be sure.