Since our Tangier car rental was a no-show (yet another story), we fell back on plan B. All the good travel guides declared the usability of the Morocco bus service, so we decided to give it a try. It’s a story in itself.
The desk clerk at the Hotel Tanjah Flandria indicated the bus terminal was only a few blocks down Mohamed V and to the right. We hoofed it down the hill, and after a stroll along a pleasant side street we found the terminal. And unrestrained chaos. Learn from our experience.
There seemed to be a separate ticket window for each destination, and I inquired at one. The clerk tried to make me understand that we did not want to buy tickets at the window, and I at first went away not a little confused. Milling around outside, I observed what was going on. Some buses were parked there, and drivers were standing about hawking tickets. A kind individual explained we should go to that bus for Asilah.
Quickly the mystery was solved. We handed over 10 dirhams (about one dollar) each and received a chit scribbled by the driver (or his henchman). Ultimately a saturation point was reached, and the driver motioned we should get aboard. And off we went to the Moroccan countryside. I couldn’t get over recalling James Stewart and Doris Day riding a bus across Morocco in The Man Who Knew Too Much. It was certain we were the only four people on the bus who did not speak Arabic and who did not know too much.
After spending the remainder of the day at our destination, it was simple to reverse the process. We found a bus parked at the small Asilah station, and we each handed over another 10 dirhams for the ride back to Tangier and a walk back to the hotel.
Summarizing: If you are going to Rabat or Casablanca, you will likely purchase a bus ticket at one of the windows. If you are going to a local stop, such as Asilah or Tetouan, you will need to look for a bus outside going to your destination and get a ticket from the driver. He will have a handful of chits, one for each available seat. He will take your money, mark your chit and hand it to you. If a bunch of you are going together, be sure to purchase tickets as a block. Else the tail enders in your party may find themselves waiting for the next bus. We never had to wait more than 30 minutes for a bus. That’s good, because restroom facilities at the bus terminals are extremely primitive by U.S. standards. On the bus, be prepared for a thoroughly Arab experience. You will become very familiar with your fellow passengers on even a short ride. Enjoy. You may not come this way again.