The name comes from the Aztec "Tlacho," meaning "the place of the ball game." The game involved two teams, each trying to get a ball through a hole. The game often took the good part of a day, and the first team to score was the winner. The winning team captain was sacrificed by having his heart cut out with a jade knife. For some reason the game never caught on, but the Spaniards incorporated the city of Taxco in 1532. It is preserved today as a historic colonial city.
In later years director John Huston took his crew there to film scenes from the 1948 classic "Treasure of the Sierra Madre." It is here Humphrey Bogart, Walter Huston (father of John), and Tim Holt outfit themselves for gold prospecting in the nearby mountains, and it is here the three bandits are executed by federal police after they try to sell the mules they have taken from Bogart after killing him on the trail. Sometimes modern times are no less grim than ancient ones.
When you say Taxco (closest pronunciation: tasko), you should think silver. There are seven silver mines in and near the city, and Taxco has over 2000 shops retailing silver products. Take the roofs off, and this place would glitter in the sunlight.
Taxco is not close to anywhere. It’s several hours from Mexico City or from Acapulco. In this case, getting there is part of the fun. Taxco is about 5900 feet up in the Sierra Madre del Sur (approximately "mother mountain of the south in my Spanish). I have taken the tour previously from Mexico City, and my foremost memory is a lurching bus ride over switch-back mountain roads. Coming up by passenger van from Acapulco was much more enjoyable, and the scenery was memorable.
Visitors are treated to the spectacle of a city of 75,000 clinging to the mountain slopes on all sides. Historic preservation requires the traditional clay tile roofs and absolutely no sidewalks. The center historical attraction is the Baroque style Santa Prisca Church. The church was constructed in the 1700s, funded entirely by Jose de la Borda, a Frenchman who made a fortune mining silver. The design and execution of the construction of the church attest to the lavish wealth expended by its grateful benefactor.
We booked our tour before leaving home in Texas—about $100 per person. Lunch was included. Our actual experience attests to some financial realities of 2008. We later learned what we already suspected: tourism was way down, and tours were not even close to filling up. The tour driver showed up on time Monday morning, noting his other passengers had canceled out. I suspect the reality was they had not been able to book a full van, but in the event, the driver was fully prepared to take the two of us for the tour. Instead, we elected to put off the tour until Wednesday so they could make up a full van.
On Wednesday four American tourists set out for Taxco in an assembly that made more economic sense.
Another aspect of economics became apparent in Taxco. There is little doubt these tours are subsidized by the silver industry. Our first stop in Taxco was a silver shop where we were given instruction in the history and the mechanics of silver production. We were also given ample opportunity to make purchases. Besides the historic and scenic attractions we got to see in Taxco, we were treated to two additional silver retail facilities.
So, it turns out that a trip to Taxco is really about silver. I will give you the benefit of my experience and wisdom:
Silver in Taxco is high quality. Taxco’s reputation is based on the industry, and there is a strong interest in maintaining public confidence. Supposedly all articles are hand crafted, which can mean the process does not involve automatic machinery. The standard of quality in Taxco is 92.5% silver, alloyed with zinc (no longer copper). It is said not to tarnish.
Do not buy on a tour. Are you going to spend 15 minutes in a shop and purchase a full silver set? Not a good idea. Purchase a silver bracelet or necklace or some ear fobs, but if it’s a serious purchase you plan, then prepare in advance. Know what you want, know the equivalent value, and be prepared to comparison shop. And to bargain. When you find what you want, pay cash or use your credit card. The shops will ship back to the U.S., but you will have to deal with customs.
All that aside, touring some of the major shops is a thrill to take home. While many of the craftsmen are home grown, others come to Taxco to study and to work. Many exquisite works in precious metal are on display to admire and to purchase. Linda de Taxco is proud to display a magnificent collection of award winning pieces, and they allowed me to photograph them. See the photos. If you can’t make it to Taxco, Linda de Taxco has outlets in Acapulco, Mexico City and San Antonio, Texas.