I first went to Korcula about 4 years ago with my husband. My son had been left home a year, hitchhiking around the world and we hadn't seen him for 12 months. We wanted to meet up somewhere and he suggested Montenegro. I tried to find a cheap package to Montenegro but they were far too expensive so I chose Korcula instead.
We booked a week at the Park Hotel with flight's included. This was with Monarch airlines. The flight was about 3 hours or a bit more and it was very noisy.We were both a bit trepidatious about this trip as we didn't really know a lot about the area. Wow! When we arrived at Dubrovnik airport and stepped off the plane we were both hooked. That backdrop of mountains with a slight breeze wafting pine and eucalyptus in the air - it was great, and to this day is still one of my favourite airports.
After checking our lugage out we had to go and find our transport to the island which was an air conditioned coach. Yes you have guessed - the air conditioning didn't work! It was very humid even for early June. We met the rep who was a nice chap, very friendly and helpful.
We then travelled to Korcula on one of the most scenic roads I have ever been on. The road twists and turns overlooking various islands of still, turquoise water. Passing Dubrovnik, the old walled city that was bombed badly in the Balkan war, but has now been rebuilt and is so beautiful; sandstone buildings with bright red roof tiles gleaming in the hot Croatian sun. It is quite a small city but has such a big heart, filled with travellers from all over the world.
The journey took about 3 hours and 45 minutes but we did stop off for a beverages and something to eat at a cafe standing high in the hills.
The last stop on the mainland before we caught our ferry is Orebic and as you look across the water you can see Korcula rising majestically out of the clear blue sea. Magnificent! We were taken across the water in a boat with our suitcases strapped high on top. I could see a lot of worried faces probably thinking - are our cases safe ??
It was really exciting as we arrived near to the quay as we could see our son waiting for us. It was a lovely day and although it had been a long journey we were so happy to be in Korcula as on first impressions it looked fantastic. The luggage was taken up to the room for us which was a bonus as we were feeling lazy and tired.
Korcula town was reasonably busy even though it was the first week of June. It was also the week that the European Football Championships started and that year both Croatia and England were playing. Croatians love football and young lads were always in the streets kicking footballs around. There was a good atmosphere on the island, very jolly and exuberant. We did actually go to one of the bars in the town whilst a match was on -England v Croatia. My husband was a bit wary as he thought they might get a bit boisterous and cause trouble. It was okay. Yes, they were a bit drunk and rowdy but no worse than any other football fans. England won that match and afterwards we had people come up to us and say, 'Congratulations the best team won.'
I seem to have gone off on a tangent there. Now for reviewing things consumers like to know about:
Food, restaurants and bars:
Korcula has numerous smaller and larger restaurants dotted around Korcula Old Town as well as around villages and bays all over the Island. In general restaurants in the old town are expensive and you don't always get good value for money.
Apart from pizzas which are sold in nearly every establishment on the island most other dishes are expensive. There are plenty of small grill restaurants with fish and pork on the menu but we didn't have a good experience, eating out.
Konoba Marinero was recommended to us so we thought we would give it a go. I ordered prawns in garlic and pepper sauce and my husband ordered what he thought was some sort of bream. When ordering fish you are first shown the fish by the waiter on the platter and then you say what size you would like, and they charge you by weight. We had to wait a long time but that didn't matter too much and as the restaurant was busy we had to sit outside which was fine as it was much cooler if a little dimly lit. When the meal eventually came we just stared at each other. My prawns - all 4 of them were swimming in a bowl of sauce (garlic and pepper). They were very tasty but not filling as only a couple of slices of bread came with the dish. Where was the rice? Then the fish came and that was all - one piece of fish decorated wth a bit of parsley and lemon and about 2 boiled potatoes. Well as you can imagine my husband was not impressed and when the bill came I thought he was going to have a panic attack. The fish cost £18 and that was 4 years ago. He thought it was incredibly expensive and has never forgotten it.
If you want good value then I think it is better going out of the old town to one of the kinoba's near the campsite or next to the Hotel Park and Marco Polo Hotel. Also I'll give you a tip - if you take the ferry to Orebic there are some good restaurants there. Several ferries run each day and in the evening. every 30 minutes, but check the time of the last one back as I think it is 10.30. The journey takes about 15 mins as it is just over the water. All along the water front there are smaller kinoba's and if you walk the full stretch of the road near the sea , turn left at the end and there is a restaurant under the pine trees. I have only had pizza and salad but it was cheap and delicious. Drinks are also very cheap - beer and wine. Sorry I can't remember the name of the place.
Bars are plentiful everywhere all over the island. July and August bands play in the old town and there are always lots of festivities taking place. Beer is cheaper than England and very tasty. Favourites are Karlovacko and Osjecko. Wine is a bit dubious although people love to recommend wine of the island but I think it is a bit rough. Stick with red Peljesac as that is the smoothest. White is too acidic but it is my personal opinion only.
Shopping
Plenty of supermarkets but if you are looking for English goodies you won't find much. I did come across some tartan shortbread in one shop. You can buy most basic items including fresh fruit. There is a market in Korcula old town that sells foodstuffs as well as souveneirs. Croatians love to barter and they can be pushy in a fun sort of way. Plenty of small boutique type shops selling fancy clothes and shoes and all over the island are souveneir shops selling bad taste souveneirs usually. If you like T shirts there is a great shop in the old town selling rock shirts and other individual designs. They are very cheap - about £4 - £5 each. They are good value and they don't shrink. I usually stock up when I visit.
Accommodation
I think there are 4 hotels on the island and if you don't go with a package, can be very expensive. (sobe) are plentiful but come high season the sobe grannies put the prices up as it is very competitive. Apartments and houses are available for rent also. To find out about accommodation any of the agencies who book trips will have lists or just go to the harbour when the Jadrolina ferry comes in from Dubrovnik every day. Property owners always tout for business at that spot as well as the sobe grans!
What to do in Korcula
If you like sunbathing there are very few sandy beaches. Nearly all beaches are pebbles, rocks or slabs of concrete. So if the Algarve is your favourite destination for a beach holiday you may be a little disappointed with Korcula and Croatia in general. Sandy beaches are very rare. However, the water is crystal clear and warm and is beautiful for swimming although getting into the water can be dangerous because of the sharp rocks so always wear swimming.
The bus station is nearby where you can catch buses to take you round the island.