I’ve travelled up and down the A46 between Bingham and Newark on more occasions than I’m able to recall but I’ve never made the detour to check out the villages that lie between it and the River Trent. Indeed it was only following my retirement, the purchase of my Digital SLR camera and my writings for IGOUGO that enticed me to explore the Trentside villages. They’re not worth a massive detour but if you’re in the area and the sun is shining then they have to be worth checking out.
East Stoke is well renown for the battle that was fought there on 16th June 1487 (known, believe it or not, as the Battle of Stoke Field) during the War of the Roses and it’s generally accepted that this was the last significant battle of the civil war. The rebel “Yorkist Army” had established themselves in a hilltop position to the southwest of the village and there they waited hoping to entrap the much larger royal force of Henry VII. The latter had set off in the early hours from Radcliffe-on-Trent (over 8 miles away towards Nottingham) and arrived, presumably foot-weary at 9.00 a.m. The battle favoured the greater experience of the Earl of Oxford’s Royal Army and the rebel force was well and truly routed. Although the exact battle spot has not been determined it’s not hard to imagine the scene across the undulating fields of this Nottinghamshire Village and the devastation of over 7,0000 soldiers killed on the day.
Nowadays things are much more peaceful and I enjoyed a tranquil ride down to the water’s edge (a haven for fishermen in the a season) to enjoy a wander along the banks of the Trent. It was real quiet other than the sudden flight of the birds that I inadvertently disturbed as I picked my way through the multitude of wild flowers.
The road down to the river is “un-adopted” so in places there are more potholes than tarmac but I persisted as I passed the boundary of the walled estate of Stoke Hall have passed. It’s thought that the original building was a hospice founded in 1135 and although there is evidence of medieval work in the building the majority dates to the early 1800’s when the Baronial Hall was “seriously enlarged”. As I pass underneath the disused railway bridge I noticed the sign of St Oswald Church and decide to take a peek. The Parish Church originates dates back to the 13th century but it was rebuilt in 1738 with only the tower surviving and the chancel sporting late14th century windows. On a sunny day you can’t beat the brilliant light show that results from the rays finding their way through the stunning stained glass windows. What a peaceful setting.
The horse-chestnut tree was in full bloom and a walk around the reasonably well-kept churchyard completed my visit. Don’t fail to check out the guardian angel that overlooks the graves.
A short ride and I’m once again making a turn off the A46 to checkout the marina village of Farndon. This is much busier than the aforementioned East Stoke as it place host to a prosperous private marina and its Trentside pub and restaurant confirm that this is a real busy place in the height of summer. In springtime, however, there’s time to walk uninterrupted down the banks of the Trent, taking in the watery views and enjoy some reflective tranquillity.
Neither village are worth making special trips to see but if you’re in or about Newark and have a few moments then I’d advise you make the short detour to get a flavour of the serenity of village life close to the Trent.