I march on, knowing that in a couple of hours, my trip will be over. I have mixed sentiments really; my feet are a little weary and my shoulders ache a bit from the rucksack. It’s a bit cold too on this last leg but I don’t want to rush and undo the relaxation and well-being that I’ve felt for nearly three days. Then, as I always do, I look on the bright side; I’ve visited some of my favourite places, met some old friends, had the sea and clouds as companions for the entire time, bumped into some unexpected wildlife, and found some “soul food” by seeing my childrens’ place of birth, where they were christened, and where they played as youngsters. I then drop back a further generation and recall the places I’ve seen that meant so much to me as a child, wonderful memories that can never be erased.
Looe is ahead so onwards I go and before long, I round the headland past St George’s Island and see the familiar sight of the Banjo Pier beneath me. Journey’s end!
Looe is one of the busiest resorts in Cornwall. The town undergoes a metamorphosis in April from being a sleepy, fishing town to that of a full blooded resort replete with a plethora of bars, restaurants, amusement arcades, boat trips, cafes, ice cream parlours, and gift shops. Whilst not to everyone’s taste, in my opinion to visit the town after the influx of visitors is to see it at its best, particularly on a cool November afternoon.
The town is split into two with the 7-arched medieval river bridge providing the link between the two halves. East Looe is the brasher, noisier side and is a maze of tiny streets and alleys where many of the best restaurants are to be found. The East side also boasts the superb beach is which, at low tide, stretches away for 200 yards or more to the surf line and forms a lovely golden crescent which is meticulously cleaned every day by the local council.
West Looe is somewhat more peaceful, with just a handful of pubs and restaurants, a few back streets that wind their way up the backdrop of steep hills, and a totally different feel from her rowdy sister across the river. Follow the road out to Hannafore where you are treated to the sight of Looe Island, sitting a mile or so offshore and now home to a nature reserve.
One definite highlight that many visitors choose to enjoy is the scenic train ride from Looe station to Liskeard, a ride of only 6-7 miles but reputedly one of the most beautiful anywhere in the UK as the line follows the river up through the wooded valley of the Looe River.
Fishing has always played a vital role in the town’s economy and today, it has the second busiest wholesale fish market in Cornwall behind Newlyn. The town’s fleet of trawlers still bring in many species such as sole, mackeral, turbot, monkfish, cod and haddock as well as shellfish such as prawns, crabs and lobsters, many of which will wind up on the menus of the local restaurants that evening.
Well, that’s it, I’ve so enjoyed my hike but from now on, the train will take the strain. I wander along the main street towards the Globe pub where I’ll just about have time for a quick one before the train leaves for Liskeard where I’ll connect with the main line back to Chippenham. Bye bye Cornwall, I've had a lovely time but then, I always do.....