The Dream
Invariably, Bolivians mention Sorata as one of the most beautiful places in their country. They compare it to a mythical Shangri-La, placed in a narrow, faraway - almost lost - valley in the mountains. They will describe a difficult trip to a remote, magical place at the feet of the Illiampu Mountain, the Eden waiting to the visitors, and then will lament their inability to travel there. However, these arguments seem to be a fine example of South American imagination. The fifteen congregations of our (Lutheran) church in the county provided me with fifteen reasons to visit the area; the sixteenth and last one was the view from the central plaza.
The Nature
Sitting at 2700m above the sea level, just north and down of the Andean High Plateau, Sorata is within the Upper Amazonian Basin and provides fascinating views, where the harsh environment of the plateau begins to mix up with the lush basin. At 6368 meters (almost 21000 feet) above the sea level, the Illiampu is one of the highest mountains in South America and the northern limit of the Cordillera Real. The nearby Ancohuma (6427m) is higher but has a less distinctive shape and is thus less known.
Approaching the Town
If arriving from La Paz, Sorata would be reached from the Illiampu Mountain and would be appreciated from above before reaching it. In a car, the 150 kilometres trip from La Paz takes around two hours. The central plaza is next to the village entrance. To the north, the road continues to the Alto Beni and the Amazonian Basin.
The Town
The village resembles a skewed starfish sitting on one of the mountain slopes. Around the central plaza there is a small grid of streets - three or four blocks deep - and then several arms spread out to the mountain surrounding the town. Around Sorata are several communities that are worth a visit, see the Millipaya entry in this journal for more details.
The Population
The population in Sorata and its surroundings is mainly of Aymara origin. Most people are bilingual and can speak Spanish. However, in the small communities - and especially among women - the knowledge of Spanish can be just basic. The village has a bit above two thousand inhabitants; the surrounding communities - like Millipaya - are even smaller.
The History
In 1781 the village was under siege by the nephew of Tupac Amaru. He constructed dikes above the town and then washed it away.
The Plaza
Sorata's central plaza is the focal point of the village and supplies the main view, the one every visitor cherishes and remembers, the single postcard provided by the place: the Illiampu Mountain on the plaza's background. What makes the view special is the mixture of tropical palms and altitude pines occupying the plaza's gardens and which create a strange foreground to the snowed peak of the Illiampu.
The Hotels
The town has several basic hotels placed around the central plaza or within a block or two from it. All of them are just basic and provide a bearable environment just for a day or two; they are especially handy if trekking or climbing in the area, but are not suitable for a luxurious vacation in a mountainous resort.
The Restaurants
The central plaza is surrounded by several restaurants specializing in Italian food. The "Pizzeria Italia Restaurant" (143 Enrique Peñaranda Street - Main Square) is a branch of a well-known establishment in La Paz. However, the lack of suitable cheeses in Bolivia creates Italian dishes that are not worth the upmarket prices. Other option is the local restaurants, which serve mainly the "rice-potatoes and noodles" dishes typical of modern Bolivia; they are rich in carbohydrates and lean in taste. Other alternative is eating the traditional food (see the Millipaya entry in this journal) or stopping at the many stalls serving snacks. Chicharron is a good option to taste a more traditional dish. Deep fried meat is served with mote (a huge kind of corn), chuño (a dehydrated potato) and platano. Peeling of the skin of the meat would reduce the excessive oil and fat from the dish. Nonetheless, Sorata is famous for its fruits, especially the local custard apple which is said to be the sweetest in Bolivia.
Trekking and Climbing
Sorata offers many opportunities for trekking. See the "Trekking in Sorata and Bolivia" entry in this journal for further details. An exciting activity available is the climbing of the Illiampu; see that entry for more details.