Caye Caulker is wonderful. It’s the most relaxed, chilled out place possible. You cannot fail to have a good time here. There are loads of places to stay, check out my review of De Real Maccaw or try the Mirramar if your on a tighter budget. The Mirrimar offer some good cheap rooms upstairs which are pretty sparse and some more upmarket rooms downstairs with TVs. The yard outside and upstairs balcony are good for hanging out or eating if you get food from one of the local barbecues. The nightlife is generally quite chilled, there are some bars on the main street, one offers live music. I&I is at the opposite end of the street from the Spit (the main swimming and beach area). It has a nice upstairs bit with hammocks and is good for chilling. If you fancy something a little livelier, try the club of the back of the main street, ask locals to direct you because my memories of this place are tainted by alcohol. The bar by the spit is nice but very quiet at night, so don’t expect much action here.
There’s a good bakery behind the main strip, so try that out, and the Internet café offers a book exchange where you can buy, sell or exchange books. There is normally a pretty decent selection. For food see my review of the Happy Lobster or try Rasta Pasta which serves great breakfasts, particularly the eggs and granola with yogurt. There are barbecues along the main road that offer good value food, normally rise, beans and chicken, or fish. Caye Caulker is easily accessible from Belize City. Water Taxis leave from the terminal across the swing bridge. They run daily but the last one is 5pm. It takes about 40 minutes to get there. You can also head onwards from here to San Pedro – see separate review.