Lixouri Stories and Tips

Lixouri and its Environs

kaminarata, kefalonia Photo, Lixouri, Greece

Lagaadakia is a very small pebbly cove accessed by a narrow, recently tarmaced country lane. The rock formation is stark against the blues and turquoises of the sea, with greatly contrasting shades of black graduating through greys, beiges, and white – and all in a matter of metres. Pockets of heather were growing out the top of the rocks and the sounds of the waves bouncing off the rocky outcrop seemed to be exaggerated in this mini amphitheatre. Augmenting the natural sounds was the distant thud of a motor launch as it powered across our horizon. Now, this is a very quiet cove with no hint of commercialism, but if you intend to relax here for any length of time, make sure that you have a good water supply and take something comfortable to relax on (this "beach" has not a single grain of sand).

After a brief time, we head back up the road to continue our tour of the peninsula and for the monastery of Kipouria, where we’ve been told they do decent meals. There are some great views as our car labours the steep slopes, and at one point we could see the sea on either side of the peninsula with uninterrupted views across to Agostoli.

This side of the island appears to be much more barren that the eastern side, and most is tree-free. We pass a couple of goat farms, chicken farms, and the odd cow or two in a penned enclosure, but other than this, there was no real sign of any productive agriculture. As we turn a tight hairpin bend on our approach to the monastery (we’re on our descent at this point), the road is awash with goats. They are fairly timid and are soon scampering off the road, whilst others seem to confidently munch on the roadside vegetation, but as soon as we approach, they shoot off into the undergrowth. A little further down and cows are blocking the road – these beasts are not intimidated by the car and look disdainfully at us. We have to exercise real patience until they decide to give way.

After this burst of excitement, we make our way to the monastery and are disappointed to see that it’s closed. It’s in a great site overlooking the water’s edge (and we’ve heard that sunsets can be amazing here), and a menu is tantalisingly on show. But there is no sign of activity – other than another couple of tourists – and so he head back up to the hills of the Peninsula. C’est la Vie.

This road loops back through to Lixouri through many a small Greek village and past several scenic views, but I’d especially recommend the pretty hillside village of Kaminarata with modern houses built into the cliff, some significant remains of the old thick walled mansions, and a superb vista across the valley.

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