The city is divided into two levels, the lower level and the upper and the upper level, Cidade Alta. The lower level looks a bit seedy where, as the upper level is very clean and very touristy. However keep in mind tourists shouldn’t be up there at night. I know at least four people who were beaten up and robbed there in the same night.
There are two ways to get to the upper level one is by cable car and the other is by elevator, yes it’s really an elevator. Just below it there is a wonderful market where you can find everything from cloths and jewelry to musical instruments and hammocks.
The Cidade Alta is very clean and so beautiful, especially all of the old churches. If you are looking for some place to eat there is a little pizza shop and Internet café in the plaza area where you can get very good pizza at a decent price.
At night the upper level turns into one big dance party. When I was there was a big bus with the playboy logo on the side blasting music. Everyone stopped what they were doing to dance in the street. Although it was fun this was the point of the night when all the tourists were getting robbed.