Aruba, Caribbean

Galloping on horseback across dazzling white sand dunes after riding out to a natural pool by the ocean was a memorable experience. Touring the dry, rugged terrain of Arikok National Park, marked by arroyos, odd rock formations, and caves was another highlight.

Everywhere we went, the wind kept us company, blowing strongly from the east. I went out one day on a sailboat, going the length of the coast and back. The boat heeled over sharply to the side in the wind – exhilarating.

The white sand beaches along the western coast are justifiably famous, though the entire strip is built up solidly with hotels, so don’t expect to have the beach to yourself. The best times for some peace and quiet are early in the morning and in the evening, when glorious sunsets make postponing dinner worthwhile.

The elemental nature of the landscape away from the developed areas was striking. Small cunucu (homesteads) in earth tones of orange and yellow are set higgledy-piggledy in the cactus- and acacia-covered terrain.

Getting up early to watch birds from our balcony was a favorite ritual. Aruba is blessed with numerous types of exotic birds, many of which I’d never seen before.

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