At the western edge of Provence, 35km north-east of Arles, is Avignon, another sun-drenched French city. It is perhaps most famous for Le Palais des Papes. Constructed on the Rhone River in the 14th century, the Popes’ Palace is the largest Gothic fortress-palace in Europe. It is a World Heritage site of UNESCO and is one of the most visited monuments in France.
First developed by Celts, Avignon became an important Roman city. It passed through many ruling hands before purchase by the Papacy in 1348. The area stayed under church control until annexation to France in 1791. French born Pope Clement V had moved the entire papal court from Rome to Avignon in 1309. The papacy continued there until the election of Italian Urban VI in 1378. However, a faction of Cardinals repudiated that appointment and named Clement VII to rule the church from Avignon. This created the Papal Schism when two Popes, even three for a short time, led Christianity until Church leadership reunited in 1417.
During the period of church dominance and for a period after, Avignon was a wealthy centre of commercial trade and banking. The church spent lavishly and the city’s general prosperity encouraged development of education and the arts. This tradition continues to modern times. Avignon is home now to about a dozen fine museums and collections and boasts proudly of its architecture, theatre, music, and dance.
Avignon has an area population around 150,000 and is much more than a picturesque destination for tourists. It is an active, vibrant city that has successfully protected its ancient heritage. This is a convenient spot for travellers because many of the attractions are within the old ramparts. East and west of the city are free car parks with convenient shuttle buses providing transport to the old town. The area is easily explored on foot. Pedestrians can wonder through narrow streets and alleys, or enjoy the expansive plaza outside the Palace of Popes. Countless restaurants, many with open-air patios, offer dining for every budget category. Of course, shopping opportunities abound for those so inclined.
We began by hopping aboard a tour train that looped around the old town with a smiling young guide providing multilingual commentary. This gave us a sense of the area and helped us plan our walking tours. The Popes’ Palace is large with many parts open to visitors. One can easily spend 3 hours at this site alone.
Another attraction to which every tourist points a camera is the Pont Saint-Bénezet, known through the old children’s song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon. Built in the 12th Century, this bridge suffered frequent flood damage. Today, only four of the original 22 arches remain. Nevertheless, words learned in 8th grade French class came quickly to mind.
Avignon is a fine destination in an area rich with places worth a visitor's attention. With a circle tour of only 150km, sightseers can enjoy Arles, Nimes, Orange, and Avignon and many picturesque villages along the way.