One built the Taj Mahal for his dead wife and the other named an entire city after her. Hyderabad, more famous today as Cyberabad, named after the love of Muhammad Quli, Rani Bhagmati, renamed Begum Haidar Mahal, is another striking example of what lovers are capable of doing for each other.
And what a love story it was: the son of the Muslim king in love with a Hindu village dancer. Two religions that now do not see eye to eye were then living in perfect harmony, tolerance, and love and laying down the stones of this magnificent city.
The construction of the city was completed in 1592, and today, the city is an ideal mix of the past and the present. Known for its pearls, biryanis, and the IT revolution, Hyderabad was once the proud owner of the Kohinoor diamond, the Darya-i-Noor, the Orloff, the Pitt, and the great table of the Nizam. Today, most of these treasures can be seen behind tightly secured glass cages of museums abroad, but what you can see in your country here is the place where it all began.
Five-hundred and fifty kilometres from Bangalore, the capital city of Andhra Pradesh, is well connected by road, rail, bus, and the air network of the country. The official language is Telugu, but most people understand Hindi and English perfectly well. Their accented Hindi is a treat to listen to for those who understand Hindi.
A weekend might be enough for most travellers to Hyderabad, but if possible, budget for at least 3 days, as there is enough to look out for in this place for people of all ages.
For those who are enamored by stories of love, valor, and treachery, two visits to the 16th-century fortress, Golconda, are a must. Visit the fort in the daytime and use a guide, who will tell you the intricacies of construction of the fort. He will show you how a clap at one end of the giant fort was heard at the top of the hill by the king’s sentries; how the king could watch the judgments happen but no one could see him; how the empire reached its glory; and how it all ended. Then visit the fort again in the night to witness the sound-and-light-show, hear some more of those stories in the voices of some famous Indian artistes, and see the fortress light up in red, blue, and gold in front of your eyes.
Seedhu, from the fortress on the way back to the city, are the tombs of Qutb Shah. The seven kings of Hyderabad and their families lie in the grounds beneath beautiful Iranian-styled, arched tombs. Visit them to see how each one of them constructed their own tombs for the world to remember them by. See the splendor of the city sprawled in front of you from there. The tomb of Begum Haidar Mahal has been renovated recently, and it glows in its white limestone glory while the other tombs still stand, greyed out, silently awaiting their turn for the Archaeological Society’s generosity.
If you want to see some of the most beautiful and the largest private collections of antique artifacts, plan a visit to the Salar Jung Museum. It boasts of books written in the 11th century, oriental artifacts, Egyptian carpets, European glassware, and Indian crafts. Don’t miss the famous double-sided statue or the veiled lady and listen to the sweet chimes of the hourly clock. You can go and spend the entire day there, yet wonder how much more there is to see.
A slightly long walk from the museum will take you to the famous Charminar. The majestic architectural hub of the city stands at the heart of the old city of Hyderabad, built by Mohammad Quli Qutub Shah in 1591. The structure is square, each side measuring 100 feet, with a central pointed high arch at the center. The minarets, their domed finials, rise to 180 feet from the ground. The whole edifice contains numerous small decorative arches arranged both vertically and horizontally, and you can climb up the structure to see the crowded marketplace below. The Charminar is built such that from any place from the Golconda fort, only two of its minarets are visible – like a mosque, one for Allah and the other for Prophet Muhammad.
One of India’s largest mosques is also located near Charminar. The Mecca Masjid can accommodate up to 10,000 people. Its construction was initiated by Muhammad Qutb Shah in 1617 and completed by Aurangzeb in 1693.
Entry charges to these buildings are nominal at Rs. 10 to Rs. 25 per adult, with extra charges for cameras. Foreigners have to shelve out extra money, about $5 for each adult, for entry.
In case you are interested in seeing the millions of Hyderabad shop around this area. Visit the nearby Chudi market and buy brilliant coloured glass bangles, or just walk around and see people shop for anything and everything in the crowded streets here.
For those interested in spending a relaxing evening under the open sky, spend a few hours at NTR garden or watch the laser show in Lumbini Park. Then take a cruise down the Hussain Sagar Lake to the Buddha statue. The Hussain Sagar, popularly known as Tank Bund, was constructed in 1562 AD by Ibrahim Qutb Shah in gratitude to Husain Shah Wali, who had cured him of a disease. It connects the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad. The Necklace Road outlines it, and the streetlights reflected off the water are a treat to the eyes.
Then visit the famous Birla Temple. Queue among hordes of devotees wanting to have a glimpse of Lord Vekateshwara and gather one more view of the city from atop the shrine.
If you are a movie buff, spend a day at the Ramoji Film City watching how movies are made. One of the largest film cities, it is located 25km out of Hyderabad on the way to Vijaywada. For Rs.200 a person, you can enjoy bus rides in the film city and watch your favourite movie scenes in their bare forms in front of your eyes. Step inside an airport and walk out of a church. Walk inside Ajanta Caves and stand face to face with an Anaconda. Enjoy joy rides, stroll over beautiful gardens, get wet in lovely fountains, and watch some crazy dance fusion shows, Wild West stunt shows, and comedy shows. End the day with a movie on the world’s largest IMAX screen. Located in a city mall, the IMAX movie is worth an experience for IMAX first-timers. The hall normally plays English movies, animation films, and documentaries. Tickets are available through telephone booking or at the counter. Advance booking is advised. Tickets cost Rs.175 per seat.
Finally, a visit to Hyderabad would not be over till you taste the famous biryanis. Savour the rice dishes with kebabs, haleem, or Nahari sheep trotters and end the meal with the royal Shahi Tukra. All throughout, watch out for the spices, as they are used aplenty. Vegetarians will be a tad disappointed, as the fare is not half as exciting.