Le Belvedere - Fare Rau Ape Valley, 42.73.44
The restaurant boasts the "best views" on Tahiti, due to its location on the top of the highest peak there. They offer a private van for those who make reservations. You can get reservations for either a sunset or a moonlight dinner. We chose sunset and that began at 4:30 pm (5pm, depending on the season). The night we went, it had just poured, and the roads were very slick. Add to that the fact that the roads are about the width of my arms extended and not well-maintained, and you can imagine the anxiety I had on the drive to dinner. I guess it's also worthy to note that the driver didn't seem to think driving slowly or carefully was necessary, as my heart was in my throat the entire ride. After reaching the top and convincing myself not to get sick, we enjoyed the beautiful views their location had to offer—perfect for sunset dining and very romantic. Luckily, we were able to secure one of the three best (only) tables outside on the patio (I guess that is partly due to the fact that we were only one of three couples there.) Le Belvedere has a bar and a large indoor dining room with panoramic views of the surrounding bays and the island of Moorea. The restaurant itself was not as fancy as the concierge at the Sheraton claimed it would be. We found it rather casual, in fact. They had colored Christmas lights as decorations (we were there in May). The waitstaff spoke English, but they were very slow on the "service" part, so if you come from a city, like we do, you must have patience—a lot of it.
The food was okay. The sunset dinner includes a "special menu," which is a green salad, French-fried potatoes, an entree, house wine, coffee, and dessert. The entree choices were also limited (another thing the concierge neglected to mention): mahimahi, meat fondue, pepper steak, steak Marchand, and beef shishkebobs. As a non-meat-eater, my choice was clear. I had that "mediocre" feeling about the food on Tahiti overall (with the exception of the Roulottes). When all was said and done, I felt we spent a lot of money ($100) on a below-average meal, so we basically chalked it up to the view. I am torn about how to rate this, so I have decided to put "somewhat recommended" because it was romantic. American Express cards are not accepted.
Le Roulottes - downtown Papetee (waterfront - Vai'ete Square)
Although Le Roulottes is not a restaurant, it is the best food we had while in Tahiti, and I felt it had to be mentioned. Le Roulettes are a large group of food trucks (traveling kitchens), all lined up in an area off the main road by the waterfront in downtown Papeete. The trucks are set up nightly around 6pm and remain open until the wee hours of the night. Each truck serves a different type of food (with a full menu of options), and each has either a small outdoor table and chair set up or a "bar" (off the side of their truck) for their patrons. There must be at least 20 trucks--and they are all licensed with the city. Food ranges in price, but we ate like kings for less than $10 each. It’s also interesting to note that the area was packed, so we were lucky to get seats!
The food is fresh and prepared when you order. The service was great, super-friendly, and fast. They even had ice cream and crepes! While there, we had local pizza, which was very tasty and very different than your typical NY pizza. We tried some Chinese because, hey, we were in Tahiti—why not? I even got a Greek salad and a waffle! There is a pavilion (with a gazebo) setup that has local performers playing live music. If it sounds funny, it's because it's scary that the city's best food is served out of a truck (what we would call roach-coach dining). But it's the truth, and such a great experience, as you will find that most of the locals flock here for dinner as well. Definitely a different experience and a great place to go with an appetite and an open mind.
Note: Alcohol is not served, so if that is something you need, the bar is across the street. Save your money for the other islands and eat here every night–-you won’t be disappointed. Highly Recommended.