The Annapurna Circuit is the most popular trekking route in Nepal, and despite lacking a natural attraction of the Everest size, it offers interesting views. The long circuit takes around 2 weeks, but if you are short on time, you can make a shorter trek and reach the Annapuna and the Machhapuchharey (The Fishtail) Basecamps. The trek itself, and its variants as well, is considerably easier than the Everest Basecamp one – you can do it as an acclimatization and equipment testing trek before attempting the more serious option.
Pokhara is a trekkers’ paradise, and you can make all your arrangements for your long walk from here, although it is wiser to start them in the less expensive and more cosmopolitan Kathmandu. Buying equipment here is an error, but if you are searching for porters or guides, just approach any of the agencies in the Lakeside. If you are not sure if you need any of them, you can start walking alone: porters will approach you daily along the trail, and all of them know the way. Please do not take advantage of these hard-working people: offer them at least 400NPR (around $6) per day of work, and if they gave you satisfactory service, add a 10% tip at the end of your journey.
The route from Pokhara begins with a bus or taxi ride to Naya Phul, less than 2 hours along the Baglung Highway to the northwest. From there it is a half-hour walk to Birethanti, which has several lodges and restaurants. It is a good idea to stay overnight and to begin the ascent early next morning, and that is because the ascent from Ulleri to Ghorepani includes some 4,000 stone steps through a dense forest. If you wish to avoid the exercise, you can make a short first day to Ghandrung and then continue through Tadapani to Ghorepani. This last place is a main stop along the trail that has many lodges and some good mountain views from Poon Hill (3,194m) – an hour climb from the village. The next day, the path descends gently to Tatopani, where some refreshment in the form of hot springs awaits you. The next day takes you to Ghasa, the first Thakali village, where the terrain changes from the subtropics to the beginning of a dry high-altitude rainshadow region. The people change along with the landscape from Hindu groups to Tibetan ones.
Without any dramatic changes, you will spend your next night in the village of Marpha, famous for its raksi, a liquor distilled from apples and peaches. From here, you start turning to the northern side of the circuit, north of the Annapuna Himal Range. The closeness to the Mustang Region and to Tibet is perceptible in the higher terrain and the strong winds. Jomosom is the administrative center of the region and is easily recognizable for its cluster of government buildings. Afterwards, the trail gets a desolate look until Muktinath, the northernmost stop in the circuit. It is a 30-minute detour to get from there to the medieval fortress of Kagbeni. As soon as you continue the trek, it's the hardest day: you will climb up to the Thorung La Pass, which is the highest point in this trek – 5416m – and in the same day you must descend to Thorung Pedi at 4441m. From here, you enter the eastern part of the trek and the climate gently begins to return to a subtropical mood.
In a long day, you can reach Manangbhot by walking along the Jargeng Khola River. This last town, the first of a meaningful size you have seen in a while, is the unofficial capital of the region, where you can recover your breath by staying a couple of days. Many day hikes are possible from here, but if you just want to sit down and relax, the mountain views are extraordinary.
From here it is a straightforward way to Chamey. Most of it runs parallel to the Marsyangdi River. The trail goes gently to lower terrains, and shortly after this last town, you turn southwards at the village of Thonchey, which is located at a mere 1,881m. It is hard to call the terrain of the rest of the trek a mountainous one, but its length will oblige you to split it at least into a couple of days. Many villages will appear along the way, and the best advise is to advance as much as you can and to stay overnight at the first village you see towards sunset. The goal at this stage is to reach Khudi and then, in a short day, the small city of Besisahar, from where you can find transport back to the nearby Pokhara.
To make the basecamps variant of the trek, you begin walking from Naya Phul to Ghandrung; shortly after this village, the way splits and you should take the northern trail. This trek is easier, and after Chomrong, the next stop north of Ghandrung, follow the Modi Khola River until the Fishtail Basecamp (3,703m); the Annapuna Basecamp is farther west at 4,095m. From Chomrong to Bagar there are several stops conveniently arranged: Khuldigar, Dobang, Himalaya Hotel, and the Hinku-Deurali duo will be your most probable night stops. After Bagar there are no settlements, and you must complete the rest of the way up and descend in the same day.