Koh Samui is the island that began the tourism boom in Thailand; despite the development that followed its discovery by the tourists, it has an overwhelming beauty. The boat reaching it crosses incredibly beautiful turquoise waters spotted with small islets; this view justifies the trip by itself.
Despite the views, Koh Samui endures a deteriorating reputation, regardless of better-advertised island locations in Thailand suffering of the same tourism industrialization.
The island is big enough to offer a wide variety of environments and beaches; like in the other Thai islands, the beaches facing the mainland are considered less good and thus are not very popular. The last fact opens a gate to various interesting options for budget travelers. Since the distances are short, it is recommended to find a guesthouse within one of the settlements facing the mainland, which are less expensive and then visiting the beaches on the opposite side of the island during the day. Moreover, despite their fame, the inner beaches are very attractive and offer a real opportunity to find a semi-isolated spot. The people on this side are more open and looking with care, pleasant surprises can be found: along the coast road I found a shiny, spotless Japanese espresso machine operating from within a feeble hut.
Reaching the island is possible with a bus-ferry combined ticket, which can be bought in Bangkok’s Southern Terminal (Sathaanii Sai Tai Mai in Thonburi - at the junction of Thanon Borom Ratchonni and the Nakhon Chaisri Highway) or from any southern town by taking a bus to Surat Thani and then the ferry.
Traveling in such a way, the town of Nathon is reached first, since it faces the mainland; it is the biggest town in the island. Accommodation here is less expensive; hence – as explained before - it is a good idea to settle here and to travel to the more popular beaches during the day.
An enjoyable activity is renting a motorcycle from the shops by the port and traveling around the island in search for your perfect spot. A good place is Nathon Residence on Thanon Taweeratpakdee and near the market. The rooms are big, spotless and with excellent facilities and cost 550B per night for a single; the place has a good café-restaurant next to its lobby. The nearby Night Market is an excellent place to search for Southern Thailand delicacies; a good choice is ka-nom jeen nam yah: rice noodles with fish curry sauce served with vegetables and pineapples.
If beginning from Nathon and advancing northwards, the first cluster of beaches will appear on the northern coasts, below the Big Buddha. Hat Maenam, Hat Bophut and Hat Bangrak are three beautiful beaches, which are less popular than the ones at the eastern coast and offer ferries to the smaller islands of Koh Pha Ngan and Koh Tao. The closest to Nathon, Hat Maenam, is the most economical beach in the island and offers some of the best views as well: Koh Pha Ngan and fishing activities in the blue waters.
Turning to the eastern side of the island, you will reach the main two beaches: Chaweng and Lamai, the last being slightly less developed. These two are the counterparts of Patong in Phuket; they offer water sports, top-end hotels, open bars and expensive restaurants for endless crowds of tourists; during the nights, they seem to be more alive than during the hot, sleepy days. If you have the means, Chaweng is the place to settle; few beaches in Thailand can match the beauty of its simple lines and relaxing colors. The elevated point connecting it with Lamai provides the best viewpoint in the island, visiting it in the late afternoon will lead to postcard like photographs.
The last leg of the trip offers two main alternatives: to continue along the beachless southern coast or to return to Nathon through Route 4169, across the island. If you opt for the last, you can turn northwards in Ban Thurian and to visit the Na Muang Waterfalls. The second, more uphill one is more impressive, but the lower one offers elephant-rides. Once back on the western coast, Nathon is nearby.