We arrived at the Blue Waters after a nerve-wracking 2 hours of driving the Windward Road, gritting our teeth around curve after curve while narrowly avoiding what seemed like certain death. Because we’d made stops at a few beaches along the way, because I’d forgotten to put on any sunscreen, and because the only way to keep the car cool along the way was to keep the windows down and the back flap up, we made our entrance in wet clothes, with outrageously wind-blown hair, and I had a sunburned left arm (from hanging out the window) to complete the picture—a nice compliment to the rest of my pasty-white self. That no one seemed to bat an eye at this when we walked up to the front desk is a testament to the laid-back atmosphere of the hotel.
We were greeted by the hotel’s general manager, Duane Kenny, who was extremely friendly and efficient—and did a good job of calming us down from our state of high alert left over from the drive. He showed us to our parking space—a cute little spot surrounded by a white picket fence—and walked us to our bungalow. It was just perfect for us—an open, spacious living area with vaulted ceilings, complete with a small, simple kitchen and dining table; through a door in the back of the room was the bedroom, which was air-conditioned and had a big closet and a comfortable king-size bed. If you prefer to sleep with the air-conditioner off, you can simply flip on the ceiling fan, open the many louvered windows around the room, and plug in the provided electric Bugmat to fend off mosquitoes. The bathroom was small but adequate and very clean.
The real appeal of our villa, however, was the front porch—large enough for a small table and chairs, as well as a beach lounger we pulled up from the lawn, with room to spare. Every morning, I walked out of bed and onto the porch to read for a while and enjoy the views across the bay to Goat Island, where a single house perches, built by James Bond author Ian Fleming as a vacation home (the island is still privately owned, though I’m not sure if Fleming is still the owner). Just beyond Goat Island is the uninhabited bird sanctuary Little Tobago, a popular destination for birdwatchers and nature enthusiasts. The waters surrounding Batteaux Bay and its two neighboring islands are full of colorful reefs and underwater life, including the world’s largest brain coral.
The beach was literally a few steps away—close enough that we were able to leave towels and flip-flops behind and simply walk out of the water and onto our porch to dry off when we were done swimming, floating, or snorkeling. The beach was small but picturesque and never crowded, especially on the end near the bungalows. The beach did tend to catch a lot of debris washing up after a rainfall; we even fished a board full of protruding nails out of the waves one day. While that certainly wasn’t the hotel’s fault, one of our only complaints was that it seemed to take a while for these odd bits of debris and trash to be picked up from the beach. There was very little of it, and we did see staff cleaning up a few times, but it would be nice if this were picked up daily all along the beach.
While our villa offered us a degree of privacy not found in regular hotel accommodations, the Blue Waters is a small place, and there were often staff members or other guests walking by our porch—some staff members would even come up to talk. There was also an efficiency connected to our villa—this would be a good setup if traveling in a group—so other people were never far away. As such, this isn’t the place if you are looking for absolute privacy and seclusion. It did, however, lend itself to a relaxed feeling of community. As the hotel is located on an end of the island where there are hardly any other accommodations and only a few other traditional dining options, guests often stick around for meals and hang out in the bar every day. This isn’t the type of place where you feel obligated to "make friends" (we like to stick to ourselves for the most part, so trust me, I’d tell you if it were); however, you do see the same people day after day here, so it would probably be a good place to socialize with other travelers for those who are so inclined.
As for my mom and me, we quickly slipped into an idyllic schedule of waking up early, eating breakfast in the Fish Pot restaurant on-site, then heading to the Shipwreck Bar for a drink and dinner at around 4 or 5pm, after a full day of swimming in the ocean, visiting nearby villages, and exploring the rest of what the island had to offer. We went to bed at around 8 or 9pm—what I would do all the time in an ideal world. It wasn’t an action-packed vacation by any means, and the nightlife was virtually nonexistent (we walked past a Friday night steel band performance on the Mot-Mot Deck one night to see guests sitting somberly in the chairs pushed back from the floor to make room for dancing), but we got just what we wanted in the Blue Waters—an easy-going, tranquil week on the ocean, in a place where we never felt the need to scurry around, prearranging our days, or dress up to go to dinner. We spent quiet mornings on our porch and evenings in the ocean—rain or shine—and the makeup and hairbrush never made it out of my bag. It couldn’t have been more perfect.