I can only think of a few times when I’ve been away travelling that I actually wanted and paid for the services of a guide. I had to know how the instruments in the Jantar Mantar Observatory in Jaipur worked. I don’t think I’d have gone looking for tigers without a guide in Ranthambore and what our guide in Cyprus didn’t know about the ecosystems of the Akamas Peninsula wasn’t worth knowing. So I’m not anti-guide per se; it’s just that when I get to a place the first thing I want to do is explore and get my bearings. When I went to Marrakesh for the first time, I went on a tour of the souks because it was included in the trip price. Stupid me! It was horrible. I don’t want to go the way somebody tells me if there is a more interesting looking alternative and I want to stop when I want to stop. I also hadn’t really got a clue where I’d been. I’d rather have a guide book, supplemented on occasion by a bit of tourist bumf and a map if possible. I don’t want to be wallowing in information straight away; I want to wallow in the place first. And Mali is certainly a good place to wallow. Having said that though, there is a very strong case for having a guide in Mali, and in some places it is an absolute necessity. It would be extremely ignorant and irresponsible to visit the Dogon Country without a guide and strongly advisable to have one if inexperienced and heading north into the Sahara.
Now, we’re really talking two types of guide here; those who can provide countrywide services and those who are based in their own towns or regions. A further consideration is whether the guide is "licensed" or not. In Mali the Office Malien du Tourisme et de l’Hôtellerie (OMATHO) and the Mission Culturelle are currently working to, amongst other things, streamline the registration and training of "licensed" guides. There are offices of the Mission Culturelle in Bandiagara, Djenné and Timbuktu, all of which can offer advice on guides. However, the situation is such that only a small number of guides have been registered to date so if a guide hasn’t got a licence it doesn’t mean he’s not a good guide. The problem is, there are also a few bogus guides out there who frankly, often know less than you do about the country. It can be difficult so if possible seek the advice of the Mission Culturelle before making any deals. Some of the pricier hotels often arrange guides as well and their services are available to non-residents. Although in many instances they are not employed by the hotels, the recommendation by the hotel will be a reliable one.
To be honest, the biggest problem in Mali is the so-called petits guides who are everywhere and can be intensely irritating for some folk. These are young boys and youths, who hang about outside hotel doors, lurk in cafés and generally follow you around offering their services as a guide. Technically, if it’s a week day then the many of them should be in school. In Djenné the truancy rate is so high that the local authorities have asked that tourists tell the boys to go back to school. Nevertheless, there are still plenty of them about outside school hours so you have a choice. By all means hire them if you simply want to find a place but don’t expect them to have any reliable information about that place once you get there. Or you can ignore them and yes, they will eventually go away. It is worth remembering though that these lads can sometimes be pretty useful and will run errands or find things for you. Where I live, the kids in the village have to earn their pocket money as well.
Unless you are taking internal flights Mali is not the easiest country to travel around. In some cases the lack of basic French can lead to misunderstandings, the transport system can be frustrating and for some people, the cultural differences can be a bit full-on. There is no doubt that the services of a good guide can greatly reduce the hassle factor and provide opportunities that you may miss without one. Similarly, if you are on limited time then a guide is worth considering if only to ensure you get to see and do as much as possible in that time. Some travellers intending to visit Mali may even prefer to make outline arrangements with a guide prior to their trip. If this is the case then you may find this guide particularly useful:
Ibrahim Alassane Maiga (known as Gran Pere)
Tel: 671 79 56/614 36 49
e-mail: askiatours@hotmail.com
He was only our guide for the Dogon Country but we had close contact with him throughout our trip and it was pretty evident that he knew his stuff in terms of organising things. Gran Pere speaks several European languages and I don’t know how many local dialects and judging by the way people greeted him, he was obviously a well-known tour guide. Gran Pere can arrange vehicle hire, boat trips and, if needed, interpreters services. If you’re planning a trip up the Niger and want a cook for the duration then ask Gran Pere to put you in touch with a lady called Batoma. She was our cook, and what that woman can’t do with a small charcoal stove in a tiny space at the back of a pinasse isn’t worth mentioning.