Ibiza: Located between Spain and North Africa is one of the Balearic Islands. Its very location made it a target for many invaders. The Carthaginians founded it over 2,000 years ago. Romans and Moors occupied the island; their imprints are visible today. By the 13th century, Ibiza was under the Spanish influence as part of the kingdom of Mallorca. Each of the Balearic Islands has their own distinct character, but all of them have stunning scenery. The locals fiercely champion the local dialect, Eivissence, as opposed to the official Catalan, but English is widely spoken in the cafés and shops. Ibiza has gained the reputation of being "the" party place for young people and is very popular with Europeans, but I believe they go to the San Antonio area. The old port, with multi-storied housing, leads to the upper town. Narrow cobbled streets twist upwards through a clutch of venerable casas to the cathedral.
We left the ship and walked first along the marina, admiring some of the large yachts moored there. As we gazed along the water’s edge, we could see shoals of brilliantly colored fish. Dark blue and purple in color, they seemed like a blue carpet spread along the waters edge - brilliant. Alongside the cruise ship, though, we noticed clumps of grayish white blobs that looked to be jelly fish, so I don’t think I would want to swim around there.
The lower city is known as Ciudad Baja and the high part of the town that holds the castle and historic monuments is called D’ Alt Vila. The old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and so we make our way towards the gates of the old city. On the way, we browsed along the stalls that were set up on the main street leading through the town. Most of the stuff on the stalls consisted of tawdry souvenirs and a plethora of hash pipes and cigarette cases with marijuana motives stamped on the front. Other smart shops on the street displayed expensive leather purses, coats, and jackets, and I noted some fine jewelry stores. We ducked into one of the shops that sold wonderful pottery and then a shop selling handmade lace and linens. This was the last stop on the cruise, so I did buy some last-minute presents.
D’Alt Vila is accessed through the Portal des las Taules. From the street, the gate is very impressive. The drawbridge is modern, having been built in ‘90s to replace the old one.
It was built exactly to the specifications of the original drawbridge. There are niches alongside the gate that depict various goddesses; Juno is one of them. Above the gates is the coat of arms of Filipe the second and an inscription of the year that the gate was built. It was 1585. The city walls date from the 15th and 16th centuries.
Inside the gate is an inner courtyard. A couple of human statues are performing for a small crowd. I dropped a 1€ into Charlie Chaplin’s box, but he didn’t respond; perhaps he was waiting for a larger crowd. Once we exited the medieval courtyard, we turned left and began our slow climb toward the castle. The streets are all cobbled, and a labyrinth of alleyways runs in all directions. Moorish architecture abounds. Doorways and windows all seem to have the pointed arches. We glimpsed blossom-filled courtyards with lovely fountains behind wrought-iron gates. Most of the homes are white with flat roofs; tiny windows showcased with shutters and pots of flowers adorn entryways. Old ladies clad entirely in black pass by. Some carry baskets filled with produce, and I notice gnarled arthritic hands that have produced a lifetime of meals. Geraniums and bougainvillea spill over courtyard walls, and the whole area is spotless.
We pass the church of Santo Domingo. It is a small church, but it is closed. Another building close by was once a convent; it is now the home of their city hall. We reach the highest point of the old town, and the views from the gun turrets and castle walls are worth the long climb. The cathedral was closed; it is of Gothic architecture and dates to the 10th century. The cathedral was built on top of a mosque, a very common occurrence in this part of Spain.
Close by the cathedral is the Archaeological Museum. We wanted to visit, but as it was closing in 30 minutes, we couldn’t. The contents of the present exhibition cover 3,000 years of history. It is divided into six sections - from the Phoenician, Punic, and Early Roman up to Islamic Medieval times. Entrance to the museum is located in the cathedral square in the Chapel of the Savior, which is now the entrance hall. Just off the reception desk is a small shop selling postcards and books relating to the museum.
We wandered around the top of the castle; little green lizards sunned themselves on the tops of warm rock. All the battlement areas are marked with plaques that give information on various battles. We walked through a long tunnel inside the Castelo Almudaina and watched a brief reenactment of the castle under siege. It was presented as a sound and shadow show. The setting was the guardroom, with very good sound effects of cannon balls and ghostly shadows of plumed soldiers {free admission}. There is very little remaining of the Castelo, only the walls remain.
We walked back downward to the new town. Most of the houses closest to the cathedral and castle are from the 15th century. Walking down the tiny tortuous streets is like stepping back in time. Not a sound can be heard and shutters are closed against the hot sun; it seems idyllic. We pause for a beer on a lovely terrace that overlooks the new town and port. There are flowers everywhere, and we sit and enjoy the view. We leave through the inner courtyard. Charlie Chaplin and the devil have disappeared; in their places couples are cuddling on the stone seats, oblivious to the world.
We take a brief walk along the waterfront and watch the colorful fish. We pass by an older couple from the ship. The man appears to be recovering from a stroke, as he is assisted in his mobility by a quad cane. He walks very slowly, and his wife holds his arm. Later that evening, I speak with the man’s wife. She tells me that her husband was thrown to the ground and robbed of his camera right on the dock as they were returning to the ship. What a sad end to a lovely day.
Archaeological Museum
Dalt Vila, Plaza de la Catedral
Admission 2€, open Monday-Saturday 9am-2pm and 4-6pm