The pyrotechnic climax of Valencia’s Fallas festivities is the burning of the best large floats during the "Nit de Foc" on the night of March 18. This is the high-point of a spectacular week of float-burning, fireworks, and processions that starts on March 12 and finishes with a firework display on the night of March 19. Prior to that, starting on March 1, the daily 2pm Mascleta ritual of firecrackers and noise attracts thousands of people to the Plaza del Ayuntamiento on the edge of old Valencia.
Being in Valencia from March 5 (a Saturday) to March 8, we were able to experience the Mascleta from various distances and vantage points. The noise and smoke made for a memorable – and very loud – experience.
Our first inclination of how important the Mascleta is to Valencians came on Sunday afternoon. We were dawdling and people-watching on the square in front of the Basilica of the Virgen. We had been admiring the Sunday-best attire of the people coming out of church when we gradually realised that they were all heading the same way as they left church. Passing through the pedestrianised area in front of the cathedral, the next street had been blocked-off to traffic and there was a strong flow of people of all ages heading towards the square.
The next day, we were able to experience the firecracker display at relatively close quarters. At about 1:45 we dawdled along one of the blocked-off avenues to the edge of the waiting crowd. Office-workers were enjoying the sun on their balconies and the atmosphere was very relaxed. At 2pm exactly, a clock bell rang somewhere, there was a pregnant silence for a few seconds, and then the noise and smoke began. We could hear sounds like waves of thunder, and see streaks of smoke from exploding fireworks above the square. Gradually the noise become constant and very loud – our bodies shook with the vibrations and we couldn’t hear ourselves shout. A cloud of smoke sat over the square. Then, suddenly, all was quiet as the noise stopped for a moment, there was a brief reprise, and then it really was all over. The whole thing had lasted about ten minutes. Waiting city busses filled-up quickly, traffic policemen took away the barriers, and life returned to normal.
Experiencing the Mascleta was indeed memorable. By arriving earlier than 1:45, we could have got closer to the action but we were quite happy to be at a respectable distance. We would not recommend taking young children to this – unless they are Valencian and have loud-bang immunity in their genes. We saw plenty of people of all ages enjoying the noise, but it certainly is very loud.