Lake Red Rock is less than 4 miles west of Pella. This close to Pella, we were interested in viewing Iowa’s largest lake, even though it is manmade. Built by the Army Corps of Engineers in 1969 as a flood-control project, it permanently flooded the small towns of Cordova and Red Rock, so named after the nearby red sandstone hills. In this highly agricultural state in which less than 1% of the land is in public ownership, Lake Red Rock area contains Iowa’s largest contiguous public land base (about 50,000 acres). It’s a popular recreation and camping area administered by the Army Corps of Engineers, Iowa Department of Natural Resources, and Marion County Conservation Board.
Our drive along Road G28 to Cordova paralleled the Volksweg (People’s Road), an asphalt path for hikers, joggers, skaters, and bicyclists that is 13 miles long now and still growing. Our destination was the Cordova Observation Tower. Built as a water tower in 1972, it became obsolete in 1984 when the area was able to obtain water from other sources. A decade later in 1995, plans began to convert the water tower into an observation tower. The stairs were reinforced to industrial-strength fiberglass, which does not become hot, is non-conductive to electricity, does not rust, and is low maintenance. When we arrived, the fee box was non-operative and the gate open, so climbing the tower was free. Bob and I trudged up the 170 steps to the top of the tower. A panoramic view awaited us on top, south and west to Lake Red Rock and the Des Moines River, north and east to the fertile river valley farming communities.
Camping galore: The county, state, and ACE (Army Corps of Engineers) administer a wealth of campgrounds (832 sites, most with electric hookups) all around the lake. Costs per site runs from $8 to $16. The federal sites are half price with a Golden Age pass (age 65 and over). ACE Rock Island District runs Whitecrest, Wallashuck, Ivans, Howell Station, and North Overlook campgrounds. They feature scenic views, boat ramps, playgrounds, fish cleaning stations, and access to hiking trails. Call 877/444-6777 or click on ReserveUSA for information, open dates, and reservations. Most of these campgrounds close by the end of September. Howell Station stays open to the end October. Elk Rock State Park on the south central shores of Lake Red Rock features a horse camp and equestrian trail. Call 641/842-6008 for info and reservations. County parks, on the north shore, include Roberts Creek East and West, most with electric sites, and Cordova Park, with many picnic areas and a variety of rustic rental cabins. Call 641/627-5935 or e-mail cordova@iowatelecom.net for information and rates.
Ancient Moingona: Before ACE built dams at Red Rock and Saylorville (north of Des Moines), creating two large lakes, there was only the river. The ancient Moingona, as some may have called it, had been glacier-carved and began to flow as a river when the ice receded 30,000 years ago. There are several theories about the meaning of Moingona. The most common belief is that it refers to the burial mounds near the riverbanks (Riviere des Moines). Another theory holds that it’s named for Trappist Monks (Moines de la Trappe) who lived near the mouth of the river. Yet another theory is that refers to the Moingoana, a tribe that once lived along the river.
As recently as the time of the Dragoon expeditions in 1835, Moingona’s waters were described as pure and clear, with abundant wildlife in the thick forests and prairies along its banks. Native peoples along the river included Ioways, Askikiwaki (Sauk), Mesquakie (Fox), and Dakota (Sioux). The land came under U.S. territorial control in 1846, and waves of settlers displaced the Indians, cleared the forests and prairies, and planted their crops right up to the river’s edge. They also attempted to straighten the river from its natural meandering course. All these insults removed nature’s protection from the rains; flooding ensued and the river became mud-filled, strangling the life within it.
Greenbelt and River Water Trail: The two large dams were not enough to return life to the river. In 1985 the Greenbelt Project was established by public law. The Greenbelt extends from Fort Dodge at U.S. Highway 20 to below Red Rock Dam. Many governmental and private agencies work together to implement goals of conservation and recreation. Conservation activities include streambank stabilization and tree plantings. Recreation is enhanced by building hiking/biking trails (such as the Volksweg) and the construction and maintenance of park facilities and historic sites. June 2000 saw the dedication of the Des Moines River Water Trail.