Named Rabat by the Arabs in A.D. 870 and deprived of protective walls, Mdina's suburb is a country village that has changed constantly over the years. With a character of its own, it provides visitors with plenty of interesting sights and attractions and gives a vibrant testimony to Maltese village life and a real feeling for Maltese history and folklore.
Buildings of all periods and architectural styles have been blended together harmoniously to form an interesting ensemble of residential houses, shops, monasteries and churches. Don't expect to find a concentrated array of historical monuments and treasures as within the walled city of Mdina. Nevertheless, Rabat offers plenty of scattered curiosities that Mdina cannot provide, simply because there's no room for them within the old capital.
Parish square is considered to be the commercial and business centre of Rabat. Bustling with activity from early morning till late at night, it is ringed with a wide selection of small shops and a handful of surprisingly good restaurants. Some of the best souvenir and handicrafts made from Maltese cotton and Malta lace are on sale here. Every Sunday morning, this square becomes the venue for a traditional flea market, mostly equipped with items for tourists. A wide display of homemade delicacies include genuine bee honey, Maltese nougat, carob juice and a good selection of Maltese wines and vintages. Don't hesitate to try. All is fresh, tasty and dirt cheap.
The highlight here on Parish square is unquestionably St.Paul's Church. Originally built in 1572 above an underground chapel which you can still visit today, it was reconstructed and enlarged in 1694. Its peculiar interior becomes particularly attractive during July when it is fully decorated for the annual village festa. Don't miss the painting by Mattia Preti above the high altar. From the church's front parapet, step down into the cave-like underground chapel, reputedly the first Christian chapel in Malta. Called 'St.Paul's Grotto', and regarded by the locals as miraculous, it houses splendid frescoes, a priceless statue of St. Paul, and a golden galley that dates back to the time of the Knights of St. John.
From Parish square, take St.Agatha street and walk straight on towards St.Paul's Catacombs, a Roman and Byzantine complex of labyrinthine underground burial chambers and vaults that were still in use by the Maltese Christian community in the 4th century. The signposted streets that lead to the complex are themselves lovely, atmospheric and reminiscent of the good old times when everything was made by hand and access was only on foot. The entire space nearby is a maze of alleys, cul-de-sacs and narrow walkways that stand as a memorial to Malta's pre-medieval past. Excavated by a Maltese archaeologist in 1894, St.Paul's Catacombs consist of an imposing central hall from which several rock-hewn passages lead into a bewildering series of tomb galleries. Though faded and in a fragmentary state, a number of surviving murals that decorate the chamber walls stand to witness Malta's rich Roman period. Among the interesting features inside are large circular tables complete with benches, hewn out in one piece to form a single architectural unit inside a vaulted recess. These were probably used to host commemorative meals during the annual festival of the dead when the rites of burial were renewed. The entrance ticket which includes the use of an audioguide costs 5 Euro for adults, 2.5 Euro for students and senior citizens.
Back on Parish square, St.Paul street leads northeast towards Howard gardens, a small park that looks over Mdina's Greek Gate and a long stretch of bastions. Nearby, you will find Rabat's prime attraction. Known as the Domus Romana, it is a one-storey structure that preserves within its walls the ruins and remains of a former Roman House that dates back to the first century B.C. During excavations in 1881, numerous remarkable polychrome mosaic pavements and priceless architectural remains were uncovered. These were meticulously restored and are now on display together with other collections of Roman antiquities. The wide selection of domestic Roman artefacts includes amphorae, perfume bottles, weaving looms and an abundance of statues that were used to decorate Roman buildings. Don't miss the exclusive collection of Roman coins that date back to the first and second century B.C. More remains, mostly of interest to archaeologists and historians are exhibited on an open-air site behind the Roman House. The entrance ticket costs 6.25 Euro for adults, 3 Euro for students and senior citizens. A multi-site ticket costing 12.5 Euro gives holders access to St.Paul's Catacombs, the Roman House and the Museum of Natural History in Mdina.
After seeing Rabat's most frequented spots, it's advisable to wander along the streets of the village to discover for yourself more interesting attractions. South of Howard gardens along St.Augustine street, you will find a 16th-century priory, still inhabited by monks of the order of St.Augustine. The priory cannot be visited by the public but the adjoining church opens daily when there is no church service. This Renaissance edifice was designed by Gerolamo Cassar, the same architect who was responsible for the construction of St.John's Cathedral in Valletta. The church's barrel-vaulted interior is massive and imposing.
Further south along St.Francis street, you will come across another conventual building that is also still being used by a small community of monks of the order of St.Francis. The adjoining monastic church houses numerous artistic works that include splendid ceiling frescoes, marble statues, gilded church ornaments and a wonderful painting above the high altar.
From the southernmost end of St.Francis street, a short walk along G. Borg Olivier street brings you right in front of the largest and most pleasing monastery in Rabat. This huge building occupies one complete side of St.Dominic square. The 16th-century Baroque church which adjoins the monastery has just been restored and contains inside a couple of interesting architectural features that lovers of church architecture will definitely admire. Both the monastery and the church open daily for visitors. If the door that leads into the monastic cloisters is found closed, ring the bell and ask for permission to get inside.
If you still have time, from the stop in front of the church, take Bus 81 to the village of Dingli, only a 10 minute bus ride. This small pleasing village, characterized by a two mile stretch of terraced cliffs is ideal for walking. The gorgeous view from the cliffs over the dark blue Mediterranean is one reason for coming here. The small rocky island you see half a mile away at sea is the uninhabited island of Filfla.