A world heritage of church architecture

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Almost completely destroyed during World War II, the numerous red-brick Gothic churches that embellish the city's streets have lately become once more the main reason for visiting Gdansk. All have been rebuilt mostly using original building material found among the debris of war and all have been furnished with such craftsmanship and dedication that only connoisseurs can tell they're not the real thing. I have visited and inspected thoroughly all churches in Gdansk and put them in order of decreasing architectural beauty. Here they are:

1. The top prize goes definitely to the massive Church of St.Mary. Located on ul Podkramarska, this structure of immense proportions boasts a 78 metres high bell tower that dominates Gdansk's skyline. Box-like from the outside, this church is considered to be the largest brick church in the world, its huge interior accommodating 25,000 people. Getting the prize for its vaulted interior structure rather than for its outside architecture, St.Mary's Church has a whitewashed vaulted roof supported on wonderful Gothic ribbed mouldings. Adorned with 31 side chapels and more than 300 tombstones, it is a miracle of reconstruction. Everything is so huge that at first sight, you get an impression of emptiness. But start walking around and you'll find astonishingly beautiful works of art that have been accumulated and preserved throughout the centuries. Of special mention are the uncovered frescoes that decorate the right corner of the church, the 4 metres crucifix above the high altar, the ornate wooden tabernacle and the painting of 'The Last Judgment'. The latter is a replica of Hans Memling's original triptych which you can also see if you visit the National Museum of Gdansk.

The most prominent item inside the church however is the medieval Astronomical Clock, an artistic work attributed to the famous clock maker Hans Duringer. Dating back to 1464, this 14 metres high clock that decorates the left transept has complex mechanical dials that show the time and date, the phases of the moon, the position of the moon and sun in relation to the zodiac signs and the calendar of the saints. Adam and Eve ring the bell on the hour. Make it a point to be here at noon when the twelve apostles move out of their hiding place followed by Satan, a short theatrical performance worth seeing. Those who are fit to climb the 405 steps of the winding staircase and dusty passages to the top of St.Mary's bell tower will be rewarded with a breathtaking view of Gdansk reaching as far away as Westerplatte.

2. The 14th-century Church of St.Catherine on ul Wielkie Mlyny is another Gothic masterpiece and the oldest place of worship in Gdansk. The most splendid and artistic piece of work inside is an 11 metres long mural attributed to the famous painter Milwitz. Located beneath the organ, it depicts the entry of Christ into Jerusalem. Another item that demands a close inspection is the Baroque church tower that was added to the Gothic structure in 1634. It encloses within its walls a 37 bell carillon that has chimed on the hour every hour since 1989. The tombstone of the astronomer Jan Heweliusz located in the church's chancel is worth a look for its historical significance.

3. The 15th-century Church of St.Nicholas on ul Swietojanska is the most wonderfully restored place of worship in Gdansk. Unlike other Gothic churches in Poland, St.Nicholas has a striking interior that is elaborately decorated and magnificent. Be sure to have a close look at the Renaissance multi-level high altar built in 1647 and at the splendid Baroque organ that dates back to the 18th century. Be here on a Sunday at 11:30am to listen to the children's choir accompanied by the fine tune of the church organ.

4. Located amidst medieval buildings on ul Sw.Trojcy, the Church of the Holy Trinity was originally built in the 15th century but reconstructed from scratch after the great damage it suffered during World War II. The whitewashed walls that support a magnificent vaulted roof, the unusually decorated high altar and the beautiful Gothic pulpit add up to give the church an interesting and wonderful interior. Located near one of the side doors, the 'Mater Misericordiae' chapel, dedicated to the Virgin contains a splendid replica of the original miraculous icon that is found inside the 'Gates of Dawn' chapel in Vilnius.

5. The Church of St. Bridget on ul Profesorska is known in Gdansk as the church of the Solidarity Movement. Lech Walesa, union leader, founder of the Solidarity Movement and later president of Poland attended Mass here when he was an ordinary shipyard worker. Destroyed completely during World War II, it was reconstructed in the 1970s according to a 15th-century plan. However, all interior prewar furnishings were lost, stolen or taken somewhere else. What you see today is an exhibition of contemporary handwork, mostly wrought iron decorations that depict the history of the Solidarity Movement. Most items are neither artistic nor fit for a church but are nonetheless interesting and unusual.

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