The Novohradske and Sumava mountains are the largest woodland area in Central Europe. Situated in South Bohemia within a region of outstanding natural beauty and stretching for 125kms along the border with Austria and Bavaria, Sumava is an area of virgin forests, glacial lakes, pristine mountain ridges and natural parks which have hardly been touched by man. Come here for relaxing walks in the forest or downhill skiing in the mountains and enjoy beautiful natural scenery few resorts are able to offer.
Cesky Krumlov, at the foot of the Sumava Mountains is a unique architectural and picturesque town of medieval origin but it is not the only interesting town in the region.
There are numerous other small towns and villages ideal for walking, hiking or cycling much better than Cesky Krumlov since they are either uncrowded or still undiscovered. A town whose neighbouring countryside is a paradise of natural beauty is Klatovy lying at the northernmost foot of the Sumava mountains. Known as the 'Gate to Sumava', it is a town of 23 thousand inhabitants and the administrative centre of the Sumava Region. Located 100kms northwest of Cesky Krumlov, Klatovy is accessible from Ceske Budejovice in about two hours by both bus and train. The Klatovy Tourist Office can help with questions about walking in the region and sells detailed maps for hikers concerning the Sumava trails. It's advisable to visit the Catacombs of Klatovy and climb to the top of the 81 metres high Black Tower for an excellent panoramic view of the mountains before exploring the nearby countryside. You can walk north for about 10kms along untouched forested trails until you reach Svihov where you can visit an original preserved Gothic castle.
From Klatovy, take a bus southeast (six daily) towards the hilly village of Rabi which is perched on a rocky ridge 478 metres above the Otava River. Stop at Zichovice and then follow the marked 2kms yellow trail towards Rabi Castle. This huge structure consists of three terraced sections, one rising gradually above the other and each guarded by its own defensive walls. A remarkable tower called don-jon stands in the middle. Since 1954, the castle was passed on to the state and has lately become a tourist attraction. Cultural activities and concerts are sometimes held in the castle courtyards.
From Rabi, walk 9kms southwest to the village of Susice. The vast area of mountainous terrain, lakes and valleys between Susice and the German border is part of the Sumava National Park which at 683 square kms is the largest park in the Czech Republic. One of the most rewarding hiking tracks to follow is the marked 28kms 'Klostermannova Stezka' which starts a short distance south of Susice in the hilly village of Hartmanice. From here, the marked trail takes you further uphill to Kasperske Hory from where it runs east amidst forested peaks, meadows, peat bogs and wild valleys towards the tiny village of Vacov. Another hiking trail, not recommended for beginners however is the marked 'Medvedi Stezka' which runs close to the Bavarian border along the picturesque villages of Hamizna, Povydri and Churanov. You have to walk mostly along rugged rocky terrain, steep ridges and unforested mountain tops.
The highlight of the Sumava National Park is the vast area northwest of Cesky Krumlov. Known as Boubinsky Prales, it is a virgin forest on the slope of Mount Boubin which at 1362 metres is the second highest peak of the Sumava Mountains. There is a 38kms marked trail that links Boubinsky Prales to Horni Plana passing through thick unpolluted forests of spruce and pine. During the walking tour, you'll come across nine informative display boards that explain interesting facts about the history of the forest. Stroll along the shores of the picturesque Boubin Lake, formerly used to transport wood to the factories in Lenora.
Besides Boubin Lake, the Sumava National Park has seven other glacial lakes covering a total area of 42 hectares. The largest is the 18 hectare Cerne Jezero (Black Lake) which has a maximum depth of 40 metres. You can stroll anywhere along the lakeshore but 47 hectares of the nearby forested area is surrounded with a fence and is out of bounds to visitors. One other glacial lake whose wonderful forested surroundings reward visitors with splendid walks is Lipno Lake. Also called Lipno Dam, it has a 42kms long lakeside, most of it ideal for hiking. The area around Lipno Lake can be reached easily on foot in about one hour from the tiny village of Horni Plana. From here, there are six daily local trains back to Cesky Krumlov or you can take a bus to the picturesque secluded village of Kajov from where you can continue to Cesky Krumlov.
The best hiking map (1:50 000) which covers the whole Sumava region is published by Klub Ceskych Turistu. Look for it inside the Tourist Information Offices in Prague, Ceske Budejovice or Cesky Krumlov or inside the smaller Tourist Offices in Klatovy, Strakonice or Prachatice.